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The Tampa Tribune

Published: December 7, 2007

Updated: 12/05/2007 10:44 pm

MEXICAN/ SOUTHWESTERN

ALGUSTO TORTILLA & SALSA MEXICAN RESTAURANT, 912 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 250-3500. This colorful, casual cafe in the Hyde Park area has good guacamole, pork enchiladas and other Mexican fare. Its green mole is extremely hot. The place recently expanded with a second dining room. ($)

CARMELITA'S, 5211 Park St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 545-2956. Carmelita's has been cooking since 1983, and for good reason: The down-home casual atmosphere, inexpensive menu and hearty fare keep customers satisfied. Consider the generous, sizzling mound of ideally marinated beef that makes up the fajitas, along with fresh guacamole. The same goes for the delicious and filling Tacos al Carbon, the meat tender and laced with flavor. The kitchen creates a Del Rey wet burrito drenched in a heady ranchero sauce, and mixes scrambled eggs and Mexican sausage in the chorizo burrito. ($$)

CASA TINA, 369 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 734-9226. Tiny Casa Tina ambitiously attempts Mexican authenticity and variety, plus nongreasy dinners and a decent beer selection. The menu includes Enchiladas Verdes, Enchiladas en Salsa Roja, Tostada Vagabunda, Chiles Rellenos and Pollo en Mole Verde, among others. ($)

CHIHUAHUA MEXICAN GRILL, 4101 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 837-2138. This smartly designed spot in south Tampa blends the hot and cool primary colors of Mexico's flag around the motif of its namesake dog. The clean, cubistic decor enhances the fare: Generous, reasonably priced appetizers and entrees that reflect American tastes. Purists may nitpick, but the menu is pleasantly varied, the product fresh and flavorful, and meals presented without drowning in grease. Consider the Mexican Fajitas, served sizzling with sauteed veggies on a cast iron skillet, accompanied by a cilanto-lime infused rice, Monterey Jack cheese, fresh guacamole, sour cream and a pile of flour tortillas. ($$)

EL TACONAZO, 913 E. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 232-5889. Seminole Heights' beloved "Taco Bus" serves up fresh, hearty Mexican favorites at a price that can't be beat. The colorful atmosphere is matched by the friendliness of the staff and the bright flavors of fresh cilantro, lime juice and sweet red onions in the chicken burrito. For starters, don't miss the shrimp ceviche. Who needs air conditioning? ($)

MIGUEL'S, 3035 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 876-2587. Good Mexican is hard to find around here, but this unpretentious little spot is a contender. The product is fresh, the kitchen creative, and the price doesn't sting. Nachos a la Miguel, beef or chicken, are good, as is the hearty Taco Salad. Miguel's offers five lunch specials for about $4 each, all of which cut the mustard nicely. ($)

MOE'S, 3810 W. Neptune St., Tampa; (813) 258-4560. Among the "fast casual" Mexican chains, this is the one with fish or tofu tacos, and the widest array of salsas and hot sauces, all made on site with fresh ingredients. Also, they holler at you (in a nice way) when you come in. ($)

RED MESA, 4912 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-8728. The menu here is surprisingly large, with enough options to satisfy most tastes. Start with Queso Fundido, a Oaxaqueno-style cheese fondue with rajas de poblano, onions and mushrooms; Empanada turnovers stuffed with sirloin picadillo, salsa and sour cream; Cedar Roasted Salmon; and Enchilada de Marisco, shrimp and crab meat sauteed and rolled in corn tortillas, topped with smoked gouda creme. ($)

TAQUERIA MI MEXICO, 4205 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 387-0091. Searching for an authentic alternative to chain Mexican? This is the place. The refried beans are homemade, not canned. The salsa is ground from fresh chiles. And tortillas come with meals, not as a side order. Tacos, quesadillas, gorditas (meat-stuffed fried tortillas) and sopes (tortillas stuffed with refried beans and meat) can be filled with your choice of bistec (steak), pollo (chicken), lengua (tongue), barbacoa (barbecue), chorizo (Mexican sausage), sesos (brains), tripita (tripe), al pastor (roast pork), de fajita (shredded flank steak), de carnita (fried pork) or de mole (with mole sauce). You'll also find platters and four different kinds of salsa. ($)

TIJUANA FLATS, 10019 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 849-6900 (check the telephone book for other locations). Chain restaurant provides tasty Tex-Mex fare at reasonable prices. The buffet of hot sauces is not to be missed, nor is the cookie-dough burrito. Just don't mix them together. ($)

VALLARTA'S RESTAURANTE MEXICANO, 13731 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 264-7691 (check the telephone book for other locations). This cozy, family-friendly restaurant boasts more than 100 items on its menu. In addition to combination plates with three to four choices, diners can order sides and a la carte plates. This means you can design your own dinner, choosing from tacos, tostadas, chiles rellenos, quesadillas, chimichangas and fajitas - you name it. The Dale Mabry location offers a daily lunch buffet. ($)

PUBS

FLANAGAN'S IRISH PUB, 465 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 736-4994. This casual eatery features traditional pub grub such as bangers and mash (pork sausage and mashed potatoes), fish and chips and shepherd's pie. Appetizers include Chicken Curry Fries and a Sampler Platter with potato skins, stuffed clams, chicken strips and Irish sausage rolls. You'll also find imported ales on draft and live Irish folk entertainment. ($)

FOUR GREEN FIELDS, 205 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444. This quaint, thatched-roof Irish pub has a homey atmosphere that attracts a cast of regulars. The food is potato simple and unassuming, the people friendly and the music always cheerful. The restaurant's name symbolizes the four provinces of Ireland - Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Munster. The key here is what flows on tap, what we call the Holy Trinity of Froth - 30-weight Guinness, Harp Lager and Bass Ale, among other excellent brews. ($)

MACDINTON'S, 405 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8999. Beef stew simmering in vegetables and a rich broth of Guinness Stout is enough to bring the Irish out of anyone, and it's a staple here. But this isn't just pub grub. The kitchen cooks up Blackened Tuna sprinkled with Cajun spices and placed over vegetable couscous and a relish of pineapple and lime; herb-scented New Zealand Roast Rack of Lamb over spinach and mashed potatoes; a seared Breast of Muscovy Duck; and Gaelic Angus Sirloin with turnip puree and an Irish Whiskey mushroom sauce. ($)

MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMEN, 4115 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037. Traditional pub fare and a good beer list share space with an upscale fusion menu with Indian and Asian accents at this south Tampa institution. Dinner specials aren't cheap, but at least you don't have to dress up at this casual spot, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. The long list of exotic side dishes makes Mad Dogs a good choice for healthful snacking, too. ($-$$$)

BEEF

BASCOM'S CHOP HOUSE, 3665 Ulmerton Road, Clearwater; (727) 573-3363. This American chop house showcases a variety of aged beef, hand-cut veal, pork and lamb chops, and a small selection of seafood. Try the expertly seared sea scallops, enhanced by baby spinach and grilled red onions. Enjoy a side dish called Gorgonzola Souffle, a cheesy bread pudding. ($$-$$$)

BERN'S STEAK HOUSE, 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2421. While Bern's is foremost a steakhouse, the menu offers some creative alternatives. Seafood selections can be topped with more than a dozen sauces, including curry mango butter, lobster emulsion and truffle jus. A slate of daily specials features fresh fish; a seafood sampler platter with Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams and mussels; and other offerings paired with wines. You'll also find pork chops, rack of lamb, and a vegetable sampler platter. The huge array of aged beef - priced by cut, weight and thickness - still draws moans of ecstasy. ($$$)

CHARLEY'S STEAK HOUSE & MARKET FRESH FISH, 4444 W. Cypress St., Tampa; (813) 353-9706. A lavish, attractive addition to Tampa's big-steaks showdown. The prime and choice steaks are the draw, especially the New York Strip and blue cheese-stuffed filet mignon. One of its seven dining rooms is private and has its own entrance. ($$$)

E&E STAKEOUT GRILL, 100 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-6399. E&E buys corn-fed, choice-grade Sterling Silver beef from the Platte River area between Nebraska and Colorado. The meat is aged at least 25 days and seasoned with cracked black pepper. Go for the 9-ounce, center-cut filet mignon, seared rare and served with a cloying bearnaise sauce. The 12-ounce New York Strip is the next best option, followed by the 14-ounce Delmonico. Those wanting to bust a buckle can wrestle down the 28-ounce Cowboy Steak, which could feed a small family. ($$-$$$)

FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 4322 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-9463. This attractive, luxurious restaurant is usually packed with diners, but not just for its prime meats and high-end menu. An annually revised list of 100 wines by the glass entices lovers of the grape. The restaurant carries a sophisticated but casual ambience, with its rich wood accents, exhibition kitchen, stylish bar, spacious booths and alabaster chandeliers. The a la carte menu offers a solid lineup of beef, pork, seafood and poultry, and entrees arrive on large, sizzling plates. Thick cuts of USDA corn-fed beef range from an 8-ounce petite filet to a 40-ounce porterhouse, seared over gas broilers and drenched in butter. ($$$)

LEATHERBACKS STEAKHOUSE, 15000 Madeira Way, Madeira Beach; (727) 399-2227. Steak, seafood, ribs and chicken fill the menu, along with pork and pasta dishes. Good starters are Carretta Crab Cakes with horseradish-cayenne aioli and Shroom Bloom's mushrooms stuffed with habanero cream cheese. For dinner, try Max's Mixed Grill, grilled lobster tail, grilled chicken and shrimp brushed with a tangy lime butter; or Fort Matanzas Shrimp stuffed with crab and punched up with a lemony butter sauce. ($$)

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 1700 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 282-1118. Ruth's Chris may be the business traveler's best friend, offering prime quality steaks in dozens of cities. The beef, undeniably exceptional, arrives hissing hot from an 1800-degree broiler, juices sealed within a perfectly charred exterior. To this, the kitchen adds a butter glaze, which spits furiously from the platters. Appetizers and side orders include Asparagus with Hollandaise, Sliced Tomato and Onion Salad, Potatoes Au Gratin, Creamed Spinach and Seared Ahi Tuna. ($$$)

SHULA'S STEAKHOUSE, Wyndham Westshore Hotel, 4860 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 286-4366. This upscale chain boasts a Miami Dolphins theme, including menus on footballs. Fancy steaks, from Kansas City strip to porterhouse, and a monster 32-ounce prime rib await those who like to dine on plainly prepared but delicious top-quality meats. Shula's also serves chicken breast, lobster, salmon, snapper and, of course, dolphin. ($$$)

SILAS DENT'S STEAKHOUSE & BAYSIDE BAR, 5501 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-6961. This beach eatery emphases top-notch steaks and seafood. Food is prepared straightforward, but with fresh, quality ingredients. Plus, there are extras such as homemade bread sprinkled with oatmeal and served with dried tomato cream cheese, a sorbet break between courses and a Parmesan dressing salad tossed tableside. ($-$$)

TEXAS CATTLE COMPANY, 2600 34th Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-3335. The market-style display (featuring hearty steaks and lobster) catches your attention at this cowboy-friendly eatery. A winner is the 18-ounce T-bone teamed with a baked lobster tail. Since the eatery opened in 1985, only a handful of people have the right to say they finished the 6-pound Texas Challenge - eating a 6-pound steak, salad, potato and bread in 75 minutes. If one finishes only half, the charge is $26. A skimpy finish (leaving more than 3 pounds) will cost $40. ($-$$)

WATERCOLOUR STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE, 1201 Gulf Blvd. (Marriott Sand Key), Clearwater Beach; (727) 596-1100. Yes, Virginia, there are some excellent restaurants along the beach, and Watercolour proves our point. The kitchen cooks up a delicious fillet of Chilean Sea Bass, and grills nothing but certified black Angus beef - expensive and worth it. Waterfront views and good service enhance the dining experience. ($$-$$$)

CONTINENTAL

BEACH BISTRO, 6600 Gulf Drive, Holmes Beach; (941) 778-6444. A continental restaurant barely big enough to be real, the Beach Bistro seats guests just yards from the Gulf of Mexico. Count on personal attention and artful presentation. The Bistro covers all the bases. Seafood is fresh; beef is prime; and poultry is impeccably prepared, especially the mouth-watering Duckling au Poivre. Don't skip dessert. Chocolate Truffle Terrine and Praline Alexandra are the ones to order. ($$$)

CAFE BISTRO AT NORDSTROM, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 875-4400. This culinary treasure, hidden away on the second floor of Nordstrom, is an ideal place to take a break from shopping. The open kitchen prepares excellent soups, salads, pizzas, sandwiches and entrees. Try anything with fries, but save room for the white chocolate bread pudding. ($$)

CAFE L'EUROPE, 431 St. Armands Circle, Sarasota; (941) 388-4415. Continental food at monumental prices. Cafe L'Europe is a mainstay of St. Armands Circle indulgence. But, heck, you can watch your friends shop while you eat, and the goose liver pate is one of the best anywhere. The duck salad is something to quack about. Appetizers in general are outstanding. ($$-$$$)

CAPRICE DAVIS ISLANDS BISTRO, 238 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 258-8100. Enjoy live entertainment and umbrella drinks in the expansive outdoor patio, or head inside for an ambitious bistro menu that includes thick steaks, exotic salads and gourmet pizzas. At lunch, the menu is streamlined and sandwich-oriented, which should leave room for one of the restaurant's excellent desserts. ($$)

FLY BAR & RESTAURANT, 1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 275-5000. This chichi downtown eatery with the big-city feel and rooftop deck serves small plates and exotic cocktails late into the night, or sandwiches at lunchtime. Sandwiches are more consistent than the ambitious evening fare, which doesn't always live up to its price. But you can't beat the ambience. ($$-$$$)

GOOD TIMES CONTINENTAL RESTAURANT, 1130 Pinellas Bayway, Tierra Verde; (727) 867-0774. Since 1977, the Good Times Continental Restaurant has served a melting-pot array of Czech, Austrian, German and French dishes. Yet the image from this description shouldn't be all Old World heaviness. Fresh Florida foods accent the menu. Dinners are full course, which means rye bread, soup and salad in addition to an entree with heaps of vegetables and carbohydrates such as potatoes, noodles or dumplings. Dishes of note include scamp (a smaller, flakier fish than grouper), coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a mushroom-laden cream and butter sauce), beef stroganoff and wiener schnitzel. ($$)

OPHELIA'S ON THE BAY, 9105 Midnight Pass Road, Siesta Key; (941) 349-2212. Vivaldi and Giuliani guitar concertos waft through the rooms, while candles and fresh flowers adorn the tables. Located at Marker 48 off the Intracoastal, Ophelia's dishes up some of the more delicious entrees in the Sarasota area, such as eggplant basil crepes with spinach. ($$$)

RESTAURANT HAPA, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 749-8400. An outstanding addition to the Bay area's fine-dining scene, this Oldsmar eatery is tucked into an unassuming strip mall. Once inside, elegance and good taste reign supreme, from the opulent decor to the compact menu. Lamb and duck are standouts, but the fish dishes are also excellent. Be sure to save room for the souffle of the day. ($$$)

THE SCHNITZELHAUS, 4333 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 884-5634. This cozy German restaurant rises above the American stereotype of Teutonic fare, and owners Mike, Susi and Ralph Jacobi serve comfort food in generous portions. Start with an order of potato pancakes or the luscious goulash soup. Entrees worth chowing down on are Jagerschnitzel smothered in a dark mushroom sauce and the Schnitzel Gourmet Dinner, leg of lamb and venison roast in a heavy wine-and-cream sauce. The marinated beef sauerbraten, like many other entrees, comes with red cabbage and spaetzle. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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