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A New Twist On An Old Favorite

By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: December 13, 2007

TAMPA - Driving past the vacant lot on South Dale Mabry Highway where Malio's once held court brings back plenty of celebrated memories.

Big names and hotshots gathered there, talking sports over martini lunches or swinging real estate deals on hefty expense accounts. Malio's was as much a social-culinary landmark as Bern's, but in 2005, it closed its doors after 35 years. Rumors of its demise, however, were premature.

Malio's has reappeared with a posh new look on the bottom floor of Rivergate Tower, the cylindrical "Beer Can" building downtown. Shedding its fraternity steakhouse mold, Malio's now acts slick and sophisticated, armed with top-notch service and a menu steeped in high-end beef.

Diners walk down a marble-lined hall to the reservation desk, where the 8,000-square-foot restaurant opens on both sides under windows along the curved stone wall facing the Hillsborough River. People enjoy cocktails at a long bar and booths inside or at outdoor tables overlooking the University of Tampa.

The decor is crisp and elegantly modern, thanks to Urban Studio Architects of Tampa, and the firm undoubtedly will be rehired to dampen the acoustics. The volume level on a weekend dinner can be distracting, to say the least.

That annoyance aside, Malio's does most everything with confidence and flair. A pair of waiters catered to our needs, explaining details of the menu and preparation and always working unobtrusively.

We opened with the Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail, five large and luscious Key West pinks hanging over a bowl of salsa. Fresh oysters on the half shell are a constant here, as are the thin-sliced Tenderloin Carpaccio and Escargots with traditional maitre d' butter.

The kitchen specializes in a half-dozen crisp salads, such as a chilled iceberg wedge with applewood smoked bacon, and the Malio's Famous Gorgonzola Salad. Our choice is the simple but flavorful Caprese with red and yellow tomatoes layered with thick buffalo mozzarella, Romano curls, basil oil and aged balsamic reduction.

We came one night to eat beef, and weren't disappointed. Our 16-ounce Ribeye was ideally cooked and full of juicy flavor, and the 18-ounce Prime Rib melted in the mouth. Those who prefer less fat and marbling should consider the 12-ounce Filet Mignon or bone-in New York Strip.

A Malio's centerpiece has to be the Australian rack of lamb, but if you want to impress your date, don't pass up the massive, 40-ounce Porterhouse - and share it. If you really want to impress, order the Porterhouse with a 20-ounce cold water lobster tail - for $153. Hungry poultry lovers can devour a whole roasted chicken, the least-expensive entree on the menu at $21.

A special one night was a delicious Tripletail, a fish common in the Gulf of Mexico, and a light, herbal tomato sauce enhanced the moist and flavorful filet. Fresh seafood options include Lobster Fra Diablo and seared Pacific salmon.

Like many pricey restaurants, Malio's goes the a la carte route, charging $7 for spinach, creamed corn or smoked cheddar macaroni.

Kudos to management for its extensive wine list. We applaud both the range of choices - 300 by the bottle - and the spectrum of prices to fit most budgets. Service is sharp, courteous and professional.

DINING REVIEW

Malio's Prime Steakhouse

BOTTOM LINE: Downtown's high-end steakhouse

WHERE: Bottom floor of Rivergate Tower, 400 N. Ashley Drive, Tampa

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $21 to $153

CALL: (813) 223-7746