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The Tampa Tribune

Published: December 28, 2007

Updated: 12/26/2007 04:55 pm

CUBAN/SPANISH

ARCO IRIS, 3328 Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-1357. This eatery captures the spirit of the small restaurants found in Havana, and although meals aren't served in a living room as they are in Cuba, the warmth of the island's hospitality is there. It is one of the best places for authentic Cuban food in the area. Arco Iris serves very fine fried rice with traditional Spanish dishes such as roast pork and breaded grouper. Great meals can be had here for less than $15. ($)

BROCATO'S, 5021 E. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 248-9977. This family eatery specializes in large sandwiches and Cuban food. Brocato's roast pork, a key ingredient in its Cuban, is so tender that it almost melts in your mouth. Other sandwich offerings include Palomilla steak, roast beef, Italian sub, chicken Parmesan and meat ball. The restaurant also offers a variety of soups and salads, black beans and rice, deviled crabs, chicken and yellow rice dinners, empanadas (meat pies) and guava and apple pastries. Open for breakfast. ($)

CAFE DON JOSE, 12350 N. 56th St., Tampa; (813) 985-2392. Cafe Don Jose has built its reputation on the cuisine of Spain: seafood, pasta, chicken and beef are served in softly lit dining rooms whose decor harkens back to the days of Spanish conquistadores. Waiters here are professional and efficient. Portions are respectable and the ingredients fresh. Must-have entrees include Cazuela de Marisco (seafood casserole), brimming with chunks of lobster, whole shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and fish in a savory catalana sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAPDEVILA'S AT LA TERESITA, 3248 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-9704. Landmark La Teresita has flowered into a lovely restaurant complex, complete with lunch counter and dining room. Capdevila's doesn't pretend to be exclusive, but the waiters wear crisp white shirts and black bow ties. Weekdays, the office lunch crowd feasts on Roast Pork, Russian Trout or the classic Chicken and Yellow Rice. Portions are huge, service is swift and lunch specials are recommended. ($)

CARMINE'S, 1802 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-3834. A quick spot for lunch. Low-priced, no-frills Spanish food piled high on plates. Daily specials lure folks from downtown to this lively, cafelike eatery. A good place to grab some Spanish bean soup or black beans, chicken soup and yellow rice before heading back to the office. ($)

COLUMBIA RESTAURANT, 2117 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-4961 (consult telephone directory for other locations throughout Florida). This is the grand palace of Spanish cuisine. From its flamboyant flamenco dancers to its fiery ceramic exterior, the Columbia is all color. In doubt? Order the paella, a traditional and eye-pleasing Spanish feast of fish, shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels, clams, chicken, pork, sausage, green peppers, onions and tomatoes, all piled onto yellow rice. By day, the Columbia is an atmospheric haven for business lunches; by night, one of Tampa's biggest tourist draws. The Columbia's 1905 Salad alludes to the year this restaurant first opened its doors on Ybor City's Seventh Avenue. ($$)

HUGO'S SPANISH RESTAURANT, 931 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2842. Hugo's lays no claim to gourmet fare, but prices are reasonable and the grub is hearty. This Hyde Park staple touts its "world's worst Cuban sandwich," but in truth, competes with the best sandwich makers in Tampa. Italian dishes score more points for low price than for taste. ($)

LA BAMBA, 4815 W. Laurel St., Tampa; (813) 287-2575. This Spanish-American cafeteria-style restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Morning specialties include the La Bamba Croissant (with egg, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage) and omelets. Lunch specials include baked grouper, beef stew, chicken Parmesan, chicken salteado, Spanish meat balls, ropa vieja, Russian trout, chicken cordon bleu and boliche. A variety of soups are offered daily, such as Spanish bean, split pea, cream of broccoli and black bean. ($)

LAS PALMAS CAFE, 19651 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa; (813) 907-1333. Tucked away in the Pebble Creek Collection shopping center, this restaurant serves Spanish-Cuban fare in a family atmosphere. The tiny, 30-seat space features such warm touches as paneling, lower light fixtures and dark green carpeting. Menu items include deviled crab, Merluza a la Rusa (a breaded whitefish filet), chicken and yellow rice and breaded palomilla steak. ($)

LATAM AT THE CENTRO, 1913 N. Nebraska Ave., Tampa; (813) 223-7338. In the Roaring '20s, Tampa tangoed at the Centro Asturiano cantina, paddle fans turning the air. Now, there are steaming plates of Lechon, Filete Salteados and Boliche, produced by a family with old Ybor roots. The menu is a blend of Spanish, Cuban and Italian, with such favorites as Paella, Shrimp al Ajillo and Chicken Parmigiana. Open for lunch only, Monday through Friday. ($)

LINCOLN SPANISH RESTAURANT, 3247 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 354-8335. A West Tampa institution since it opened in 1963, this "Boliche Boulevard" locale bustles at lunch and dinner. The restaurant specializes in authentic roast pork, ropa vieja (shredded beef), carne con papa (beef stew) and seafood dishes such as zarzuela de mariscos (rice and seafood) and lobster enchilado. ($)

MR. EMPANADA, 4836 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-6232 (check the telephone book for other locations). Mr. Empanada offers tasty turnovers stuffed with combinations of beef, sausage, chicken, seafood and fruit. The beef empanada has juicy ground beef seasoned with onions and green and red peppers. Seafood lovers should try the crab empanada in a light tomato sauce. (The bits of shell add to the authenticity.) The restaurant also offers Cuban sandwiches, Spanish bean soup, deviled crabs and an assortment of salads. ($)

SPAIN RESTAURANT, 513 Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-2831. A good place for hearty Spanish grub without emptying the wallet at lunch or dinner. Consider the lemon grouper or paella. Those with light appetites might want to sit at the bar, sip sangria and munch on more than two dozen hot and cold tapas. ($-$$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

TINATAPA'S, 615 Channelside Drive (in Shoppes at Channelside), Tampa; (813) 514-8462. This colorful, hip eatery specializes in the popular Spanish tradition of tapas. Tapas are essentially finger foods, small servings of Spanish dishes that allow the diner to jump from dish to dish. The restaurant serves more than 30 varieties of hot and cold tapas. Favorites include Pan de Tomato, with diced red tomatoes, Spanish ham, provolone cheese and olives, drizzled with olive oil and served atop crusty bread; and Gambas Fritas, breaded, fried prawns doused with a sweet and spicy dip. Each small plate averages three or four mouthfuls, so two people could easily eat six or more tapas and spend in excess of $60, not counting beverages or desserts. ($$-$$$)

TIO PEPE, 2930 Gulf-To-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082. A Pinellas favorite, Tio Pepe delivers consistently enjoyable Spanish cuisine. The menu includes traditional Paella, but those with other preferences find seafood in delicate cream, such as Gambas Rellenas a la Pepe (large stuffed shrimp in a sauce), along with sassy poultry preparations and hearty beef dishes. Waiters make a first-rate sangria, mixed with sugar, brandy, citrus, cinnamon and choice of wine or champagne, and the bakery turns out a nice variation on pumpernickel. The restaurant can be loud and bustling on busy nights. ($$)

VIZCAYA RESTAURANTE & TAPAS BAR, 10905 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-7400. This Spanish eatery showcases Chef Felix Piedra's creative way with tapas, appetizers that you can mix and match into a meal. He cooks up 20 hot tapas, with choices such as merluza, a Spanish fish cooked with a lobster and seafood sauce; fresh calamari in its black ink; and fresh scallops with imported chorizo. Cold tapas options include Gulf shrimp with avocados and duck liver with green peppercorns. For entrees, try Zarzuela de Mariscos, a bountiful seafood dish with Maine lobster, scallops, clams and shrimp, accented with a rich cream sauce tinged with brandy; or the hearty paella, rich and fragrant with saffron-flavored rice, shrimp, mussels and clams, topped with half a lobster. The wine list is extensive for a small eatery. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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