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Chicos' Mexican Needs More Sizzle

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By MARY PATRICK, Tribune correspondent

Published: November 8, 2007

TAMPA - The idea is to re-create the food and ambience of a wood-fired grill on a Mexican beach. The reality is more like a clean cantina with a strip-mall vibe. But that doesn't mean Chicos Wood Fired Grill doesn't deliver on some of its promises.

On a recent Sunday, the place was almost empty (perhaps because they are competing with restaurants that have NFL Sunday Ticket), but the wait staff was cheerful and attentive.

The meal begins as it does at most Mexican restaurants in the United States: complimentary chips and salsa. In this case, it's an excellent start, as the salsa tasted fresh and packed a flavorful punch without being too spicy.

Drink choices covered the usual types of cerveza on tap and in bottles, with the addition of the less ubiquitous Land Shark Lager and the Mexican-brewed Tecate and Negra Modelo.

Sangria comes in three choices (white peach, sunset red and frozen dream) and can be ordered by the glass ($6) or pitcher ($20). There are also fruit smoothies, including the Chocolate Monkey, a tasty mixture of banana, chocolate syrup and ice cream.

Less impressive was the starters menu. The grouper fingers were overbreaded and overfried, resulting in a too crispy fish finger with an overcooked taste that even the jalapeno tartar sauce couldn't mask. And if you order the Nachos Loco, a large platter of tortilla chips topped with a smoky queso, jalapenos, sour cream and pico de gallo, ask for no chili, which tasted canned as though right off the supermarket shelf.

Things improved with the entrees.

The chimichanga combo featured lightly fried flour tortillas, one stuffed with Monterey Jack cheese, red peppers and grilled chicken that had a heavy (but not unpleasant) cumin flavor. The other, stuffed with a savory mix of onions, Jack cheese, red peppers and filet mignon, tasted delicious.

The Chicken Verde Enchiladas, served with rice and black beans, also pleased, especially the fresh salsa verde, a smooth-textured blend of tomatillos, onions and cilantro.

It's hard to go wrong with a Buffalo chicken salad, and Chicos reaffirmed this theory. A nice-sized helping of romaine lettuce, roasted corn, ripe tomatoes and smoked bacon was tossed in a tangy bleu cheese dressing, and there was enough chicken to have a piece with every bite.

Fajita options include marinated grilled streak, citrus chicken, shrimp or veggie served with green and red peppers and onions. While Chicos added nothing distinctive - tortillas, pico de gallo and sour cream came on the side - it's hard to miss with this Mexican restaurant staple.

Less satisfying was the Mango Chicken & Coco Shrimp, primarily because the entire dish was warm with temperature but not spice, as if it had been stuck in a microwave. The mango salsa was warm and mushy, as was the pico spinach.

Capping the meal were churros, another Mexican restaurant staple. The cinnamon-crusted dough was fried to the perfect texture - firm outside, soft inside - and the presentation was pretty and tasty, with splashes of whipped cream, caramel and fudge sauces for dipping.

DINING REVIEW

Chicos Wood Fired Grill

BOTTOM LINE: Ordinary Mexican in a bright, cheerful setting.

WHERE: 12217 W. Linebaugh Ave., Tampa

HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: For large parties

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE RANGE: $5.79 to $16

CALL: (813) 814-2023

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@ fridayextra.com.

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