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Steakhouse Deals A Royal Flush

By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 15, 2007

TAMPA - What is Tampa's best restaurant?

Readers ask all the time, and answers vary with the wind. But no argument should exclude the new Council Oak Steak and Seafood at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, where a fine meal is less a gamble than a given.

Most everything about Council Oak stands out and apart, especially from the clatter of the neighboring casino. The restaurant unfolds like an oasis, and diners can't help but be mesmerized by the posh design and atmosphere, top-shelf service and superlative menu. This is where a couple can drop $200 and feel good about the investment.

The restaurant's name comes from a grand tree where Seminole Indians met to discuss tribal matters. It also is part of Hard Rock's $120 million expansion: an additional 50,000 square feet of casino space and a total of 3,200 gaming machines.

Unfortunately, diners must walk through the bustle to get to the restaurant, which offers no direct entrance. But once inside, you can expect a night of delirious decadence.

Guests pass an attractive water feature at the entrance and a butcher shop behind glass, where beef dry ages in lockers stocked with Himalayan salt bricks. The large kitchen - a theater behind glass - offers panoramic views of the chefs working their wonders. Those waiting for their reservation can enjoy a cocktail at the adjoining jazz lounge.

As the name suggests, beef and seafood are the mainstay here, high-end USDA prime cuts and line-caught Florida fish. Alaskan king crab comes from boats seen on the Discovery Channel's "Deadliest Catch" series.

Servers bring hot white towels to freshen the hands of each guest, and explain in detail the night's bounty. Freshness was key from the start with our Colossal Shrimp Cocktail, the crustacean tasting as if just brought in from the Atlantic and complemented by a rich horseradish sauce. A bouquet of micro greens and mustard sauce frame the Council Oak Crab Cakes, and the kitchen poaches the Stuffed Clams in wine butter and bakes them with herbed bread crumbs. Pancetta, arugula and truffle oil lend a trio of flavor to the Sweet Cold Water Lobster appetizer.

The Crab Bisque is among the best we've tried, rich, velvety and with generous lumps of meat swimming in a butter finish. We loved the deep red beefsteaks in our Tomato and Onion salad, and the Romas, bleu cheese and Asian pear in the Council Oak Garden Salad.

If one entree captured our attention, it had to be the bone-in Pork Prime Rib - slow roasted and spiced with herbs and sea salt. Our order was ideally cooked, the meat mouthwatering and full of flavors from the oven. Nor did we have trouble devouring the 16-ounce bone-in Filet Mignon, the meat tender, delicately marbled and hot-branded with the restaurant's logo. Shortly after our entrees arrived, the chef appeared tableside to answer any questions.

The kitchen creates small masterpieces with the rosemary-rubbed Dry Aged Lamb Chops and Free Range Organic Chicken with root vegetables, and offers a 2-pound Maine Lobster (steamed or broiled).

Those who love the sweetness of lobster shouldn't hesitate to order the Twin Australian Cold Water Tails. Line-caught Florida seafood includes Broiled Grouper with a hint of fennel and roasted tomato marmalade; and Sauteed Red Snapper framed in white truffle risotto, wild mushrooms and Port wine butter.

An extensive wine list of more than 200 varietals ranges from an affordable Fetzer Sauvignon Blanc for $17 a bottle to a Heitz Cellars Cabernet for $480, but a good range of excellent wines can be found for under $40. Servers are friendly, knowledgeable and crack professional.

DINING REVIEW

Council Oak Steak and Seafood

BOTTOM LINE: Culinary indulgence at the casino.

WHERE: Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, 5223 N. Orient Road, Tampa

HOURS: Dinner only, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $21.75 to $49.50

CALL: (813) 627-7628