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Improper Shipping Can Cook The Wine And Boil The Blood

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By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 21, 2007

TAMPA - So you have some money saved and want to splurge on a half-dozen cases of expensive French wine. Go for it.

The wine arrives, and you pop a few bottles at a dinner party, expecting to impress your grape-loving friends. But your investment turns sour after the first pour, better suited to dumping down the sink than savoring over foie gras. What happened?

You got cooked. Sure, you bought a terrific vintage, but you failed with the middleman. Your shipment might have sat in the hold of a ship at 120 degrees or fumed in a hot New Jersey warehouse. Whatever the problem, some people along the way didn't do their job, and you're mad enough to blow your cork.

This raises an important question: How does the casual wine buyer like yourself really know whether your wine has been properly stored and shipped?

"It's an issue that wine people pay a lot of attention to," says David Mela, owner of Vintage Wine Cellars in Tampa. "It's a situation that's better than it was 15 or 20 years ago because wine producers, shippers and importers have learned their lessons and are willing to pay the cost of protecting their investment."

Evidence of a "cooked" wine might be a broken cap, a stained label, a brown or cloudy appearance to the wine, over-ripe aromas or simply a flat taste. When wine is exposed to excessive heat, corks can push their way up the neck of the bottle, causing too much ullage - the air space developed when wine is lost.

All these problems can stem from wine being stored too long in hot conditions or direct sunlight.

Most professionals today ship wines in refrigerated containers and use insulated blankets to protect wine being loaded or off-loaded.

"We take precautions by refrigerating our wines from winery to port, cover containers with thermal blankets and store them in ships below the water line, then send them out in refrigerated trucks," says Diel McKenzie, a spokesman for Avanti Fine Wine Selections in Lafayette, Calif.

Wine travels well if the shipper follows a basic rule: Bottles need a cool, dark environment. With every 18-degree increase in temperature, the chemical reactions in wine can double, especially above 60 degrees. Leave a good bottle of wine in the back seat or trunk of your car for an afternoon in the summer, and the wine will structurally unravel and taste stewed, notes Karen MacNeil in her highly readable book "The Wine Bible."

"I wouldn't leave a rare, older or truly great wine in a hot trunk for even 10 minutes," she writes.

So imagine a wine that must travel across the Atlantic or go through the Panama Canal, and chances are pretty good you will buy one. In 2006, nearly 98 million cases of wine (1.1 billion bottles) were imported to the United States, according to the Gomberg Fredrickson Annual Industry Review, which provides wine statistics to the U.S. Department of Commerce.

"Nearly half my stock is from overseas, and that's a significant amount," Mela says. "So most everything I get is temperature controlled. If you have a shipment of fine bordeaux coming, the cost is so high they importers can't afford not to take care of them."

Experts say wine buyers should read the importer's statement on the back of the bottle and do a little research about importer reputations. Then, talk to local wine shop owners about various importers and what they do to protect their wines during travel.

"I think it's very hard for customers to know for sure how the wine has been handled," says Sean Carroll, a spokesman with the Benson Marketing Group in Napa, Calif. "That's why wine lovers must always build relationships with reputable retail shops, wineries and wine clubs. This way, the customer can be assured the wine is of quality and handled properly."

Wine And Disease

Researchers at the University of Missouri-Columbia have found that red wine may help the immune system fight common food-borne diseases. They found that red wines - cabernet, zinfandel and merlot, in particular - have antimicrobial properties that defend against food-borne pathogens without harming naturally useful bacteria.

The researchers are following up on studies that show how red wine in moderation can help prevent cardiovascular disease. Numerous white wines also were tested but yielded no positive results.

"We went a step farther and asked: If red wine is already good for cardiovascular diseases, what about food-borne pathogens?" said Azlin Mustapha, an associate professor of food science. "If you get a food-borne illness and drink red wine, will that help decrease the symptoms? This study showed that the four probiotics useful bacteria tested weren't inhibited by red wines; the pathogens were."

Tasting Notes

What have we been sipping lately? Here's a rundown of recent wines we recommend for Thanksgiving, or any other night of the week, for that matter. Wines are in no particular order other than cost.

INEXPENSIVE

R.H. Phillips 2006 Night Harvest Chardonnay: This smooth, nicely balanced wine with a hint of melon was harvested at night to allow the grapes to cool and stay concentrated. R.H. Phillips continues to offer good values for the price; $8.

Primo Amore Sangiovese-Merlot 2005: The blend of two grapes gives this Sicilian wine plenty of forward fruit. It goes well with meat on the grill; $8.

Barton & Guestier Bistro Pinot Noir: A dependable table wine from the Languedoc in southern France and one that fits the pocketbook; $10.

Stellina di Notte 2006 Pinot Grigio: This light, aromatic wine is made from grapes of three Italian vineyards and goes down cool and refreshing as a complement to seafood; $12.

MODERATELY EXPENSIVE

Diseno 2006 Malbec: Argentina is producing some excellent bargains, such as this impressive red made from 100 percent Malbec grapes and aged in French oak; $13.

Babich 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: Grassy with just the right rush of acid, this intensely herbal New Zealand varietal stands up and shouts, especially over a crisp Caesar salad; $13.

Domain Chandon 2006 Unoaked Chardonnay: A soft, pleasant wine full of aromas of pineapple and lemon, and with a tingling finish; $20.

Charles Krug 2004 Napa Valley Merlot: A plump and chewy merlot with hints of blueberry and pecans; $22.

Kunde Estates 2006 Sonoma Valley Viognier: The Kunde family continues to impress with its outstanding, sustainable-farm varietals, including this luscious honeysuckle viognier; $24.

EXPENSIVE

Castello di Volpaia 2004 Chianti Classico Reserve: The stunning ruby color alone is worth the price of this 100 percent sangiovese wine, complete with a refined, spicy nose and a long finish of lustrous tannin; $34.

Jordan, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon: I served this wine at a birthday dinner for Michelle Bearden, the Tribune's religion editor, and she immediately converted to the church of wine. Richly integrated and with an abundance of dark berries, this marvelous wine is a showstopper; $50.

Newton 2002 Unfiltered Merlot: An intense, jammy merlot with touches of cherry and oak. It's bottled unfiltered to keep its fruity essence; $55.

J. Davies 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Blackberries and clove explode on the tongue, and a deliriously long finish makes this a keeper for that holiday dinner; $75.

Silverado Solo 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon: A huge, assertive wine bursting with plums and black pepper and worth laying down for at least five years; $75.

Reporter Kurt Loft can be reached at (813) 259-7570 or kloft@tampatrib .com.

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