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The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 23, 2007

BARBECUE

ALEX'S SOUTHERN STYLE BAR-B-Q, 5362 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 269-0050. Available from the pit are ribs, pork, beef, chicken and sausage, which Alex's serves alone, in combinations, by the pound and in family portions. Alex's Big Boy Platter, a sampler plate with more than enough meat for two, had at least a half-pound of tender, moist, shredded pork, along with chicken, ribs and sausage. The sausage was the tastiest of the meats and came in crumbly chunks coated with a sweet sauce. The mound of pork was flavorful, especially mixed with Alex's own barbecue sauce, which offers a good balance of tart and sweet. The sauce comes on everything, so tell 'em if you want it on the side. ($)

FIRST CHOICE SOUTHERN BAR-B-QUE, 10113 Adamo Drive (S.R. 60), Brandon; (813) 621-7434. Family recipes give First Choice's tangy sauce and distinctive sides a down-home flavor missing from just about every other barbecue spot except your own back yard. Sandwiches are a good deal for the buck at lunch, but for variety it's tough to beat the combination dinner platter, a choice of two meats and two sides. Fans of no-frills finger-licking will have no trouble keeping pace with the quick tempo set by the staff's rhythmic chopping. But go early for lunch - crowds frequently line up out the door. ($)

FRED FLEMING'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 4351 Fourth Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-3733 (check the telephone book for other locations). In addition to good barbecue, 15 side dishes, fancy cakes and luscious milk shakes highlight the menu at this place, named for its owner, a consistent winner on the amateur barbecue circuit. Smoked turkey legs, corned beef brisket, ham steak and chicken are among the entrees. There are plenty of sandwich choices, too, including wraps. ($-$$)

HUNGRY HARRY'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 3116 Land O' Lakes Blvd., Land O' Lakes; (813) 949-2025. For lunch or dinner, Harry's stacks on helpings of delectable smoked meats and sides as though every meal was a church picnic. Chopped pork is the star, either on a bun or a platter, served with Texas toast and a choice of two side orders from among baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad. Other available sides are baked potato, green beans and corn on the cob. ($)

JIMBO'S, 4103 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 289-9724. People don't come to dine but to stuff their faces, slop sauce over the meat and wash it down with cold beer. Pork ribs are a staple, sandwiches are enormous, and a half-dozen hush puppies are perfect for sopping up the extra sauce. Surprisingly good burgers. Killer beans. ($)

KOJAK'S HOUSE OF RIBS, 2808 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-3774. A nice little getaway on the east end of Gandy Boulevard. The place for ribs, dirt cheap and casual. Not the place for starched white shirts. Sit on the porch if weather permits. Bayshore Boulevard is a quick jaunt. ($)

LEE ROY SELMON'S, 4302 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 871-3287. It's amusing to consider that this dressy-casual eatery bills its lineup as "comfort food." Yeah, comfort if you have an expandable Sans-A-Belt waistline. The ample portions would please an off-season Warren Sapp, particularly such oversized offerings as the fried green tomatoes appetizer, Smokin' Quesadillas and Lee Roy's Diet Plate (ribs, pulled pork and barbecue chicken). Mama Selmon's meatloaf - well-seasoned, with fresh bits of onions and green peppers - is a winner. You'll find plenty of other traditional Southern comforts, including fried chicken, crayfish-stuffed fried catfish, corn bread pudding and grits awash in bacon and cheese. ($$)

ROBERT'S MEATS, 3316 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 832-3584. The menu here is a meat lover's delight. Sandwiches include the quarter-pound Bobby Burger, Cubans, grilled filet mignon and New York strip. Barbecue dinners (ribs, chicken, beef and pork) come with two choices from a list of side dishes: potato salad, macaroni salad, coleslaw, pasta miguel, barbecue beans and spinach pasta. Robert's has a no-frills dining room, or you can go for takeout and catering. ($)

SHANE'S RIB SHACK, 2081 Collier Parkway, Land O' Lakes; (813) 949-6790 (check the telephone book for other locations). Grab a bunch of paper towels from the roll on each table and dig into some messy platters at this franchise barbecue joint. From pulled-pork sandwiches to ribs to surprisingly good chicken wings, Shane's offers down-and-dirty barbecue in a squeaky-clean setting. ($)

JAPANESE

BONSAI SUSHI, 2826 E. Bearss Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-2755. Sushi chef Jiro-San has mastered the art of presentation with consummate flair, and his best dishes suggest a marriage of the Iron Chef and Julia Child. Rather than rubber stamping his menu, Jiro-San adds an original and often surprising twist to his creations. While the sushi bar offers plenty of elegant selections, don't miss the Salmon Misoyaki with a rich miso sauce, or a sizzling order of Gaz-Bi, grilled short ribs slathered in a Korean-style barbecue sauce. ($$)

CAFE JAPON, International Plaza, 22223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-8619. This sushi bar - reportedly the longest in Tampa - offers inventive cuisine and an array of sakes. The entrees are delicious and beautifully presented, but sushi is the star of the show. Try the Dragon Fire roll, which combines eel and spicy tuna, or an exotic selection like the Tropicana roll, outlined in thin slices of mango with a dusting of walnuts on top. The seafood salad is also excellent. Whatever you order, the main ingredients are high-quality fish, vegetables and rice, so you can indulge without worrying about your waistline. ($$)

CRAZY BUFFET, 2702 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 998-9228. It's a cut above the Asian mega buffets around town, offering all-you-can eat sushi and Japanese soups and salads. Pick your own meats and veggies and watch chefs cook it on the hibachi grill. A traditional hot bar includes dumplings, garlic chicken and beef with broccoli. Evenings bring out a raw and steamed seafood bar with scallops, oysters, shrimp and the like. ($$)

GINZA JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE, 8104 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 806-1551. Ginza offers lots of ways to eat healthful Japanese fare, from hibachi combinations such as steak and calamari to Nabeyaki Udon, a hearty noodle dish. The sushi chef is delightful, deftly preparing colorful rolls with fresh ingredients. ($)

KADO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI BAR, 6821 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 890-8201. Sushi fans can feast on yellowtail, shrimp, octopus, tuna and other treats. The anti-sushi crowd can enjoy cooked specialties at one of a dozen teppanyaki tables. The chefs provide great entertainment as they whirl and twirl their cleavers. Entrees include seasoned chicken, steak, salmon, shrimp and other seafood combinations. ($$)

KOBA'S, 2402 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3326. Refreshing and creative ideas percolate at Koba's, where appetizers alone are worth the trip. Some entrees are on the expensive side, but come with a bowl of white rice, Miso soup and crisp house salad. Diners have lots of options for sushi selections, such as sea urchin, scallops, octopus, squid, fresh or smoked salmon, conch and sweet shrimp. We found the raw seafood to be fresh, translucent and without any fish odors. Makimono favorites are the Alaskan with salmon skin, crab, cucumber and scallion; spicy crawfish with smelt roe; baby octopus; the Arizona roll with yellow tail, scallion and smelt roe; and fried mussels with spicy mayonnaise. ($$)

TOKYO BAY, 5901 Sun Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0770. Tokyo Bay offers fresh, clean and translucent seafood, presented with flair by master sushi chefs behind the bar. Two people can split the enormous Sushi Boat Special Dinner for $30, and sample most of the basics before bursting. A more streamlined Tokyo Bay Bento Box comes with sauteed dumplings, Teriyaki Chicken, California Roll, and Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura. Sushi selections include tuna, salmon, yellowtail, squid, clam, mussel and quail egg. Cooked selections include fresh water eel, baby octopus, jelly fish and grasshopper. Rolled sushi with seaweed and rice is a good bet for anyone new to this cuisine. Each is hand rolled, cut into six or eight pieces, and served with paper-thin ginger root and spicy wasabi. ($)

TOKYO SUSHI CAFE, 195 Second Ave. N. (in BayWalk), St. Petersburg; (727) 823-1912. In an ideal world, a sushi bar would be on every street corner. Instead, we have to seek them out. We're glad we found Tokyo Sushi Cafe at BayWalk, the entertainment-and-retail center in downtown St. Petersburg. The product is fresh, translucent and clean to the nose and tongue. Consider the Salmon Teriyaki, Seafood Combo Tempura or Hamachi Kama, a tasty broiled cheek of yellowtail. ($$)

WATER, 1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8406. Clean, crisp and transparent are apt words to describe Water, the simply appointed sushi restaurant connected to Ciccio & Tony's on south Tampa's Restaurant Row. The offerings are modest in size but gracefully priced, and more important, fresh, zesty and pungent. Signature creations are the homemade purees and aromatic sauces that meld entrees into lavish flavor combinations. Consider the Water Bowls, with the food served atop rice in a bowl; Water Fresh and Crisp, including salads, dips and slaws; and Water Clear Rolls, sushi rolls made of rice paper instead of nori, or seaweed. ($-$$)

YOKO'S JAPANESE RESTAURANT, 3217 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-4311. A south Tampa favorite, Yoko ranks with the best in town. Favorites are Yoko's Special, a combination of tuna, salmon, smelt roe and tempura chips; the Love Roll, including smoked salmon, shrimp and avocado; the ubiquitous California Roll, a mix of crab, avocado, cucumber and smelt roe; and the Arizona, which includes delicious yellow tail, smelt roe and scallion. Great lunch menu. ($$-$$$)

YOKOHAMA JAPANESE RESTAURANT AND SUSHI BAR, 760 W. Lumsden Road, Brandon; (813) 684-3485. This fine restaurant will make you homesick for Japan, even if you've never been there. It offers a wide variety of sushi, including flying fish roe, sea eels, tekka (tuna), unakyu (eel and cucumber), agedashi tofu (bean curd) and hokkigai (cooked clams). Best bet is the Yokohama Lunch Box, which includes sushi, teriyaki chicken, tempura and rice. ($$)

THAI

AI-MEI-THAI RESTAURANT, 5391 34th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0965. The menu lists more than 120 main dishes with familiar favorites such as Pad Thai and a handful of curries. Try the Thai Beef Jerky with a Thai soy sauce and scallion dip; Thai sausage, cooked in lime juice and fish sauce; or the fragrant Yum Shrimp and Squid, scented with ginger and chili paste. A user-friendly menu is spelled out like a Bingo game. For some of us, it sure is easier to say "S2" than "Tom Yum Gnoog." ($)

BAN THAI RESTAURANT, 5374 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 968-7668. Enjoy the lavish teak woodwork and Oriental carvings at this elegantly appointed Thai restaurant. The Yum appetizers are great, as is Chicken in Cream of Coconut Soup. Vegetarians have plenty of choices and there are more than a dozen macrobiotic dishes. Shrimp and pineapple are abundant in a not-too-sweet Sweet and Sour Shrimp. Ginger Chicken is a stir-fried dish with tender chicken, peppers, onions and carrots. Finish dinner with deep-fried Crunchy Banana Coins over coconut ice cream or Lychee (a Chinese fruit), along with a refreshing Thai tea. ($-$$)

BENJARONG THAI, 14402 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 265-2667. Benjarong, which translates to five colors, refers to the patterns on fine Thai porcelain. And there are fine specialties here, such as Tornado Shrimp (jumbo shrimp in a light curry sauce) and Sizzling Seafood (lobster and shellfish in a garlicky brown sauce). Ask for Benjarong's spice tray - Thai mustard sauce, jalapeno peppers, dried chili peppers, and red and green chili peppers in fish sauce. ($)

CAFE DE SIAM, 11242 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 855-1108. This Thai restaurant offers an ambitious menu with more than 80 items. The best dishes are the appetizers. Laarb, the Thai name for a spicy pork, beef or chicken salad, is a vibrant starter. The ground pork was mixed with onions, mint and lime juice, and cabbage leaves are used as utensils for eating the meat. Yum Nuer is thinly sliced beef salad, tossed in a lime and chili sauce with tomatoes, onions and sliced cucumbers. Entrees of note include Pad Met Ma-Mouhng Himmaparn, a chicken stir-fry with scallions, cashews and dried red peppers, served in a garlicky brown sauce; and Horh Moke, a ramekin of sliced pork, cabbage and fresh basil. ($)

JASMINE THAI, 13248 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-1501. Gourmet Thai with rich, imaginative sauces and presentation worthy of Polaroids. Sample the Tornado Shrimp, and Long John Silver's will lose you forever. Fresh crustaceans arrive in an eggplant tub, doused with green curry sauce and trimmed with red pepper slivers. It's all art, all the time. ($)

PLOY THAI RESTAURANT, 1941 W. Brandon Blvd. (in the Providence Square Plaza), Brandon; (813) 684-5007. This quiet Thai haven offers good food and good service. The kitchen takes time to present dishes as tasty art, with vegetable garnishes and pretty purple orchids. Fish fans can delight in a Whole Red Snapper, beautifully bathed in a bright chili sauce and displayed on a decorative fish platter. Panang Curry teams shrimp - simmered in coconut milk, curry and basil - with crunchy, sliced zucchini. The colorful Red Curry with pork is loaded with pineapple and mixed vegetables, and the Chili Sauce is sauteed with pork, carrots, scallions and red peppers in a peppery sauce. ($$)

PU THAI, 8730 49th St. N., Pinellas Park; (727) 547-6556. The name refers to the highlands of Thailand, but mountains of food seem like an appropriate interpretation, too. Good choices include frog legs and Pad Ke Maow, which translates as a drunk stir fry. A multitude of curry dishes come in red, green and other colors depending on its heat index. A number of steamed and sauteed vegetable dishes will please most vegetarians. ($)

ROYAL PALACE THAI RESTAURANT, 811 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5893. Excellent sauces and vibrant vegetables are reasons enough for most guests to fight for a parking space and wait for a table at this south Tampa Thai eatery. Enjoy the yum salads, with shrimp, squid or beef in a zesty lime juice-chili sauce with cucumbers, carrots, onions and chili peppers. A chicken version of Nam Sod is as zesty as any pork version at the competition. Sizzling chicken is a snap, crackle and pop selection of flavorful fried poultry. ($$)

SAWATDEE THAI CUISINE, 10938 N. 56th St., Temple Terrace; (813) 985-2071. There's fancier fare across town, but for a neighborhood restaurant, Sawatdee offers exotic dining at fair prices. The menu adheres to Thai basics, but offers a few surprises, including a pumpkin curry dish with choice of chicken, beef or pork. ($)

SIAM GARDEN THAI RESTAURANT, 3125 Ninth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-0613. Open since 1988, this is one of St. Petersburg's oldest Thai restaurants. Entrees include a number of tasty chicken, steak, seafood, duck and frog-leg dishes. Start dinner with Siam's Yum salads, featuring beef, shrimp or squid. Double Delight (shrimp and chicken), Clay Pot Combination (shrimp, squid and crab) and Panang Curry are other winners. ($)

SIMPLY THAI RESTAURANT, 875 E. Bloomingdale Ave., Brandon; (813) 681-4470. Spring rolls, pork sate and a hearty selection of poultry, pork, beef and seafood stir-fry selections are offered at this Brandon Thai stop. A friendly staff walks guests through its mild to hot dishes. ($)

SUKHOTHAI RESTAURANT, 8201-A N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 933-7990. Sleek and sophisticated, tasty and tasteful. This is the place to dazzle a date. You can even touch toes by accident. In the Khan-Toke room, diners slip off their shoes and sit on the floor. Start with the duck soup. ($$)

THAI-AM 2 RESTAURANT, 13037 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 398-9700. Viyada and Sungkard Thanupakorn moved to a new, more spacious location on the beach, but the restaurant still retains its warm, friendly charm. The lengthy menu features soups, appetizers (try the nam sod, a mixture of minced chicken, lime juice and ginger) and a good selection of beef, chicken, pork and seafood entrees. Recommended are the curries, hearty and prepared with care. You'll also find tempura, teriyaki, sashimi, sushi and a number of other Japanese dishes. ($-$$)

THAI CORNER, 713 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 228-6801. This solid Thai restaurant caters to the downtown lunch crowd with a fairly traditional menu of rice and noodle-based dishes. Flavors tend to be mild, so be sure to ask if you like extra heat. Try the Red Curry and Pad See-Ew. ($$)

THAILAND, 5252 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 837-1793. This south Tampa staple gave many diners their first dose of Thai food. Even now, with much competition, it holds its own. The menu is loaded with variety, including an array of curry sauces. Portions aren't huge, but the entrees are hearty and bursting with spicy flavors. Lunch is a bargain and dinner entrees rarely pass the $10 mark. ($)

THAI BAY THAI RESTAURANT, 1300 E. Bay Drive (Largo Center), Largo; (727) 584-5522. A plain exterior doesn't prepare you for the inventive food found here. Order the Amazing Beef (with broccoli), Volcano Shrimp (with lava sauce) or Two Friends Panang (with curry). Entrees deliver subtle and powerful flavors. The heat index ranges from mild to molten. ($)

THAI ISLAND, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (Davis Islands), Tampa; (813) 251-9111. This family-run restaurant features fresh ingredients - many grown on the premises - and a friendly, tropical vibe. Don't miss the corn fritters (a less bricklike cousin of the hush puppy) and the panang curry, especially with pork. Homemade soups and salads are also a good bet. ($-$$)

THAI SWEET BASIL, 3875 Northdale Blvd., Tampa; (813) 961-8898. This exceptional Thai restaurant on Northdale Boulevard is worth the drive even if you don't live in the neighborhood. The menu mixes beautifully presented classics with innovative dishes like Scallop Wasabi. The Duck Curry is an exceptional autumnal feast; also noteworthy are the Green Curry, house sangria and Fried Banana with Coconut Ice Cream. ($$)

THAI THANI, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-9200. Thai Thani has kept up a steady stream of locals and tourists who come for its inventive sushi and sashimi offerings in the Japanese tradition, creatively presented Thai seafood and curry dishes, and the tastefully appointed dining room. The menu reflects the influences of other countries, such as China and India, but stresses the traditional soups, curry dishes, spiced salads, fish, vegetables and dipping sauces of Thailand. Many dishes are a harmonious blend of sweet, sour and spicy - some very, very spicy. ($$)

CARIBBEAN

ALFRESCO, Renaissance Vinoy Resort, 501 Fifth Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1000, Ext. 2144. The culinary theme under this attractive gazebo is Floribbean, a mix of Florida and Caribbean styles that blends tropical fruits, piquant relishes, aromatic herbs, translucent sauces and quick, fat-free grilling. Starters worth biting into are the Conch Fritters with curried remoulade sauce, or the Coconut-Fried Shrimp with a tangy citrus mustard sauce. A good bet for light eating under $10 is the Caribbean Chicken Caesar with pineapple relish. The limited entree selection includes slow-roasted Island Spiced Ribs with guava barbecue sauce and grilled Florida Spiny Lobster with charred tomato sauce and toasted cumin seeds. ($$)

COQUINA BLUE GRILL & BAR, 12836 Henderson Blvd. (corner of Gunn Highway), Tampa; (813) 514-1234. The menu at this Citrus Park restaurant is brimming with Caribbean flavors. Start with the tender and flavorful grouper bites or lightly fried Sweet Island Calamari. Good entrees include Perfect Pan Seared Tuna and Fiesta Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya. There's also salads, steaks, pastas, sandwiches, wraps and burgers. Don't pass up the tortilla filled banana cheesecake, a scrumptious concoction tucked inside a warm, crispy tortilla drizzled with caramel. The restaurant features live music most nights, showcasing a variety of bands that crank out everything from rock and R&B to Top 40 and Jimmy Buffett. ($$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

COLOMBIAN

LA PEQUENA COLOMBIA RESTAURANTE, 6312 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 876-8338. This West Tampa eatery has a distinctive Colombian flair. Latin music wafts through the three small dining rooms adorned with native art and crafts. Antojos (appetizers) include tamales (corn pie with meat and vegetables), empanadas (meat pies) and arepas con queso (corn tortillas with cheese). Entradas (entrees) range from Chuleta Colombiana (breaded steak) to Sobrebarriga (steamed brisket with tio sauce) and Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's popular dish of beans, rice, eggs, meat and plantains. Breakfast includes Higado Encebollado (liver and onions), arroz, Huevos Revuelto (scrambled rice and eggs) and Calentado de Frijoles (rice and beans). ($)

LA TIPICA COLOMBIANA, 2310 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 931-9300. This warm and relaxed restaurant and bakery serves typical Colombian dishes and baked goods. Each weekday features a special such as arroz con pollo (chicken and yellow rice) - Colombia's version has an ample amount of peas and carrots with yellow rice and chunks of chicken; tamales, cornmeal patties stuffed with corn, meat and vegetables; and mondongo (tripe). For the ravenous, there's Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's most popular dish, piled high with a slab of palomilla beef steak, fried pork rind, fried egg, white rice, arepa, strips of fried plantain and pinto beans. ($)

FRENCH

CAFE LARGO, 12551 Indian Rocks Road, Largo; (727) 596-6282. Cafe Largo stands out for its inspired kitchen and presentation, plus personal service from a friendly staff. Strong entree choices include veal scallopini, rare beef tenderloin and rack of lamb with three complementary sauces; and veal kidney flambe with cognac and Dijon mustard. Don't leave without trying the cafe's trademark souffles au choix, made with orange liqueur, chocolate, Frangelico and fruit. ($$)

LA COTE BASQUE WINEHOUSE, 3104 S. Beach Blvd., Gulfport; (727) 321-6888. Cozy place to go for traditional country French fare and quiet conversation. From French onion soup to chocolate mousse, the menu focuses on old-style cooking. Duck, scampi, lamb chops and veal are among the entree choices. ($)

LE BOUCHON, 796 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-9777. Casual and unpretentious, this one-room restaurant feels like a neighborhood diner in Provence, where the locals come to digest whatever the chef deems fitting and fresh that day. Recommended are the crepes, country pizzas, Tournedo Poivre Vert and Roasted Duck Breast. Also consider the wine dinners. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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