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A French Oasis In Downtown Tampa

By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 29, 2007

TAMPA - Qu'est-ce que ceci?

A new French restaurant in downtown Tampa? Can it survive? Shouldn't the mayor slap it with a fine for serving wine or violating the city's strict code on napkin folding?

Let's face it, downtown Tampa is deadsville when it comes to nightlife, and the local government has done little over the years to encourage business and attract people. Restaurants often wither before they can boil a pot of water.

So we applaud the guts of a little French gem called L'Eden - Garden of Eden - where quaint dinners unfold on weekends and creative lunches during the week. Owners Gerard and Anne Marie Jamgotchian hail from Marseille, France, and their skills with la cuisine du monde is evident in most every bite.

L'Eden is exactly what downtown needs in abundance. The tiny restaurant serves garden fresh fare with flair, and the dining room overlooks a bustling intersection and Gaslight Park. At high noon, hungry lunchers line up out the door, waiting for a coveted table to open.

On Friday and Saturday nights, diners on their way to Tampa Theatre stop by and sit at the wine bar, where they can nibble on a plate of Scottish smoked salmon, cured meats from Italy, or sip on a bowl of soothing gazpacho.

Many will be impressed by the bill. One recent Saturday night, we enjoyed appetizers, salads, entrees and a glass of wine for about $50 - hard to beat anywhere. The owners could charge twice that, but want to develop a following with a small menu and portions that mirror the Spanish tapas school of dining.

Although steeped in traditional French ingredients and techniques, the menu follows a nouvelle style by eschewing rich and heavy sauces for herbal bases and healthful broths made by reducing rather than thickening.

We opened dinner with a delirious lobster bisque, creamy and loaded with tasty meat. Any soup of the day is worth trying, as well as the crock of French onion or New England clam chowder.

The Chicken Madras makes for a small but satisfying dinner, lightly curried chunks of poultry folded into a croissant. We loved the large, succulent Pacific shrimp that make up the garlicky Gambas, a nice complement to the variety of colors and flavors of our roasted pear and bacon salad with English blue cheese.

To frame the spanakopita, a delicious Greek spinach pie, the chef dresses leaves of romaine with a sun-dried tomato paste. Diners seeking more French flavors might try the ratatouille stew, traditional quiche Lorraine, or the assorted cheeses that make up the Assiette de Fromages. The restaurant's most ambitious entree is an Australian rack of lamb - for a stunning $14.

The lunch menu offers an assortment of paninis, stuffed croissants, quiche and light sandwiches. One afternoon we ordered a hearty vegetable soup of the day and the Napoule crepes, stuffed with chicken, red pepper, tomatoes, cheese and basil. All crepes come with potatoes (gratin or sauteed) or a delicate array of field greens.

The wine list is limited to a small selection from France and Italy, and generic wines by the glass for $5.50. Service is polite and efficient, but expect to wait during busy lunch hours.

DINING REVIEW

L'Eden

BOTTOM LINE: Affordable French fare in downtown Tampa.

WHERE: 500 N. Tampa St., Tampa

HOURS: Lunch, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Wine and beer

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, but limited

PRICE: Entrees range from $7.50 to $14

CALL: (813) 221-4795