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FEEDER'S DIGEST

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 30, 2007

NEW AMERICAN/ FUSION

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. Try the sushi. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. Mise en Place is perhaps the most respected affordable restaurant in Tampa. ($$-$$$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. The decadent Krakatoa Lava Cake oozes bittersweet chocolate with every bite. ($$)

PAPPAS' GRILLMARKS NEW WORLD BISTRO & BAR, 607 N. Clearwater-Largo Road, Largo; (727) 584-6235. The menu at this stylish restaurant reflects traditional Greek dishes, Mediterranean aromas, New American, a hint of the Orient and even an English chophouse. A party of six could span the globe by ordering Black & Blue Tuna Sashimi, a Portobello Tower, a Miami-style Wedge salad, Linguine Amatriciani, grilled salmon and a 24-ounce porterhouse. ($$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki "Hawaiian Style" Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's "Original" Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Chef Jeannie Pierola has a knack for peppering Asian, Latin-American and Mediterranean ingredients into a fusion feast she calls One World Cuisine. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. ($$-$$$)

SIGN OF THE MERMAID, 9707 Gulf Drive, Anna Maria Island; (941) 778-9399. If we needed just one more reason to quit the job and spend eternity grazing on Anna Maria, this restaurant could do it. Snazzy appetizers - including Grilled Quail, Charred Rare Tuna, Escargot Fritters, Spanakopita, Hummus and Baba Ganoush, Baked Brie with Honeyed Walnuts - set the stage for a first-class production of entrees. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. Co-owner David Chapdelaine spent some time working with the Pleasant Peasant chain in Atlanta, and he learned well. Now he has teamed up with his wife, Julie, and chef Nui Thanasioangkuo to bring the experience to Tampa. The result is 220 East, a fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. The Hot Stickers are excellent. Also try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

Z GRILLE, 269 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 896-3101. Zack and Jennifer Gross hark from Southern California and bring their tastes and techniques to the Z Grille on Central Avenue, a nice addition to downtown's growing restaurant culture. An enticing beer list and shorts-casual atmosphere draws a lazy crowd from off the street, as well as the hungry from a neighboring cigar bar. Consider the Pork Filled Flautas, Blackened Grilled Shrimp Skewers, Towering Tostada, Z Grille Infused Chicken, and Dry Rubbed Ribeye. ($$)

VIETNAMESE

INDOCHINOIS, 3324 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-3432. If you've never tried Vietnamese cuisine before, here's a place to start, with a brief, uncomplicated menu of mostly successful, mildly spiced dishes. Try such Vietnamese classics as Pho, the hearty meal-in-bowl soup with beef tenderloin and rice noodles, or Bun Thit Nuong, a bowl of barbecue pork and cold noodles dressed with mint leaves and a slightly sweet sauce. The portions are light but so is the hit to your wallet, so be prepared to order multiple starters and entrees to satisfy the big appetites in your party. ($-$$)

RESTAURANT BT, 1633 W. Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1916. No discussion about restaurants in Tampa can exclude B.T. Nguyen-Batley's masterpiece of French-Vietnamese cuisine in Hyde Park Village, where a regal menu marries a sophisticated atmosphere. Nguyen-Batley has created an exotic and undulating landscape in food, each dish energized by earthy ingredients and finished off with an artist's brush. We don't need to recommend any one entree because the entire menu stands out. ($$-$$$)

SAIGON BAY, 2373 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-0854. The former Lemongrass delivers cordial service and a moderately priced menu of Vietnamese family fare, much of it anchored in noodles or rice. Consider a steaming bowl of seafood soup, Pho Do Bien, and if appetite permits, the bananas flambe dessert, served over coconut ice cream. ($)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. ($)

PACIFIC RIM

THE BAMBOO CLUB, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-0326. Pacific Rim favorites are steamed, sizzled, woked and flash fried. Don't miss Woked Vietnamese Shrimp and Chicken with a zesty cracked pepper and soy sauce. Thai Spicy Shrimp with green beans gets zip from crushed red peppers. Squid fans should order the Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad. Bamboo Club also serves wonderful fried spinach, crisp woked beef and lemon grass shrimp. Three noodle dishes can be served as soup or woked entrees. ($$-$$$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

ZEN FORREST, 4148 Rowan Road, New Port Richey; (727) 372-9545. Take a trek through Asia without a hefty travel bill by savoring Chef Victor Wang's artful dishes, inspired by the cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand and beyond. The delicious and healthful meals include a chicken and rice soup featuring a hint of anise, Thai Coconut Curry with lemon grass-infused chicken, and a seafood feast of shrimp, calamari, mussels, sea scallops and vegetables over fried noodles. ($$-$$$)

CHINESE

CHINA BUFFET, 1245 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 615-1310. The star attraction of this all-you-can-eat buffet is its surprisingly fresh, high-quality sushi. For lunch, they have an ample variety of sushi rolls, with a few pieces of nigiri (strips of fish atop fingers of rice) here and there. Plus there's vegetarian sushi for those who haven't yet made the leap to raw fish. For dinner, they put out more nigiri, which requires much more fish. The rest of the buffet is the standard fare of most Chinese restaurants - noodles, vegetables, different types of pork and chicken, soups and salad-makings. They also offer you-peel-'em crawdads and cold shrimp. ($)

CHINA GARDEN, 3904 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 805-2929. Arrive hungry and prepare to dine in a cafeterialike atmosphere with big crowds who come for the super lunch and dinner buffets. Daily features include a Mongolian "u-pick it, they cook it" BBQ. Choose from raw pork, chicken, beef and fresh vegetables, which you hand over to be sizzled on the griddle. Soups, sushi, dim sum, Korean kimchi, egg rolls, barbecue spare rib tips, fried rice and crisp green beans line up next to Egg Foo Young, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Hunan Shrimp, Peking Duck and Pork Lo Mein and much, much more. ($)

CHINA YUAN RESTAURANT, 8502 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 936-7388. If your taste buds need excitement, consider China Yuan. A visit here is not a trip to Chinatown but to China. This authentic Cantonese spot is not Americanized, but a good place to explore new tastes. Try the Fresh Squid in Pepper and Black Bean Sauce or ask if the sweet blue crab dishes are available. Other good choices include Sizzling Pork Chops, Snow Pea Tips (an entree of flavorful, bright green leaves) and fried rice cooked with shrimp, chicken and ham. ($-$$)

HAO WAH, 1713 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-2095. For appetizers, check out an order of six steamed dumplings, crab meat Rangoon, Chinese roast pork or fantail shrimp. A simple but tasty dish for $7 is honey chicken, the nuggets of breast meat crisp and butter fried, served with a sweet honey sauce. Other good bets are the flavorful Shrimp With Cashew Nuts, Seven Stars Around the Moon, the sizzling Goba and Flower Basket Delight. ($-$$)

P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO, 219 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-8400. The menu is representative of the major culinary regions of China (Hunan, Sichuan, Canton, Shanghai, Beijing), with a few Southeast Asian dishes thrown in. Entrees come with both white and brown rice, along with soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar. Try Spicy Ground Chicken and Eggplant, the minced chicken perfectly complementing the smooth wedges of eggplant. Cantonese Roasted Duck is presented with steamed wheat buns, julienned cucumbers and scallions, and plum and hoisin sauces. Chang's Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps (spicy chicken, water chestnuts and mushrooms) is a must-try appetizer. ($-$$)

T.C. CHOY'S ASIAN BISTRO, 301 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-1191. This Oriental bistro cooks up more than 100 Chinese dishes, including eel, octopus, abalone, shark's fin, Mongolian Beef, Japanese Seaweed Salad, Honey Glazed Scallops and whole Beijing duck. You'll also find 30 to 40 dim sum selections. Vegetarians will have no trouble finding zesty options. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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