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Pino's Serves Up Elegant Evenings

By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 5, 2007

SARASOTA - In keeping with today's cover story on culinary destinations, it seems fitting to feature a restaurant from the mix, especially one in the center of Sarasota's dining district.

The dilemma on most any visit here is where to enjoy a good meal, as so many savory choices appear around the corner. Our latest find is Pino's 100 Central, a handsomely appointed space on the ground floor of a posh condo tower and across the street from the imposing Selby Public Library.

The city deserves praise for landscaping this part of Central Avenue with attractive trees and shrubs that put the eye at ease in the shadow of rising concrete. You see less of the sky these days, but there's more happening in the kitchens.

Pino's was once a quaint little spot on west Main Street, and the owners loved their location not far from the marina. Then, a condo project forced them to move, and they decided to capitalize on all that Sarasota capital.

The result is a more upscale restaurant, the dining room framed in rich dark woods, stained walls and soft lighting, the kitchen out of ear shot, and an attractive wine bar and lounge next door. The menu reflects the aura of luxury, both in presentation and price. A dinner here with all the stops is by no means an inexpensive proposition, and lunches are definitely of the power variety.

But we felt spoiled by all the fuss and finesse. Our greeter accepted without pause our request for a quiet booth, where we pondered the tantalizing offerings of the Mediterranean menu.

Front and center was an order of sauteed shrimp and fresh artichokes, nicely prepared in white wine and a sprinkling of herbs. Sliced Norwegian salmon sits on a bed of arugula, enhanced by lemon juice, oil and capers. Anyone craving a bit of salt should try the imported white anchovies.

We had mixed results with salads. The Della Casa is an airy blend of organic spring greens with tomato, carrots, onions and Gorgonzola, but our Crab Salad was curiously bland.

A favorite entree is the Pollo Valdostana, the lightly sauteed chicken breasts topped with prosciutto and mozzarella and brought to life by a delirious demi-glace reduction. Highlights from the sea include sauteed and lemony Dover sole, and grilled salmon steak over vegetables.

Beef lovers might consider the sauteed filet mignon, enhanced by the flavors of pink peppercorns, tarragon, brandy and a touch of cream. Other options on the heavy side are grilled lamb chops infused with garlic, rosemary and balsamic vinegar; and a half-roasted duck touched off with a reduction of merlot. A big-ticket item is the mushroom-shrouded grilled veal chop.

The kitchen takes pride in pasta, considering its creative preparation and presentation of gnocchi, linguine and penne. The noodles bathe in various sauces made with pancetta, clams, lobster, mushrooms, wine and tomatoes.

The wine list is top-heavy on price, which only discourages people on a budget from enjoying a good varietal. With its pronounced fruit and pleasant finish, the Renwood Sierra Series 2004 Zinfandel is a bargain at $30. Service at Pino's is polite and efficient, but then, we would expect nothing less.

DINING REVIEW

Pino's 100 Central

BOTTOM LINE: Elegant Mediterranean fare in the heart of downtown

WHERE: 100 Central Ave., Sarasota

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 4-9:30 p.m. Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $14 to $36

CALL: (941) 955-3739