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The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 19, 2007

NEW AMERICAN/ FUSION

THE BLUE HERON, 3285 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 789-5176. This lovely restaurant intrigues with a fusion menu that includes sweet-and-spicy duck, Gulf Grouper Piccata and Walkerwood Swordfish. Don't miss the Australian Rack of Lamb or Thai Coconut Snapper. ($$)

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

FETISHES, 6690 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 363-3700. The strip-center architecture redefines plain, but Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies, catering to diners who value intimacy. Favorite appetizers include the hearty cup of Corn and Crab Bisque, chunky with sweet bits of corn and crab; house specialty Maryland Style Crab Cakes, plump and meaty; and Mini Beef Roulettes stuffed with Asiago cheese and prosciutto. Of entrees, we enjoyed the Filet Mignon in a garlicky bechamel, Chicken & Crab Avonaise - chicken, crab, avocado and bearnaise sauce - and Crispy Roast Duckling with orange cumberland sauce. Reservations are a must. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. Try the sushi. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. Mise en Place is perhaps the most respected affordable restaurant in Tampa. ($$-$$$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. The decadent Krakatoa Lava Cake oozes bittersweet chocolate with every bite. ($$)

PALM COURT AT TRADEWINDS RESORT, 5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-6461, Ext. 2558. This 18-acre meandering hotel has a treasure of a courtside bistro. The menu has a sizable pasta section, including dishes such as tortellini with rock shrimp, asparagus and garlic cream, and seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams. ($$)

PAPPAS' GRILLMARKS NEW WORLD BISTRO & BAR, 607 N. Clearwater-Largo Road, Largo; (727) 584-6235. The menu at this stylish restaurant reflects traditional Greek dishes, Mediterranean aromas, New American, a hint of the Orient and even an English chophouse. A party of six could span the globe by ordering Black & Blue Tuna Sashimi, a Portobello Tower, a Miami-style Wedge salad, Linguine Amatriciani, grilled salmon and a 24-ounce porterhouse. ($$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki 'Hawaiian Style' Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's 'Original' Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

RUSTY'S BISTRO, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611. Chef John Harris brings to the table a palate rich in world cuisines, mixing tastes and textures from Florida, France, the Caribbean, the Southwest and the Pacific Rim. Rusty's also offers a bountiful salad bar crammed to the hilt with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Not to be missed is the chef's trademark corn soup with a dollop of salsa; a Caesar served inside a decadent fried sheet of Parmesan cheese molded into an edible bowl; shredded duck ravioli; sea bass with fennel, lentils and leeks; and the Lolly Pop Pork Chop with balsamic demi-glace ($$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Chef Jeannie Pierola has a knack for peppering Asian, Latin-American and Mediterranean ingredients into a fusion feast she calls One World Cuisine. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. And when the climate is comfortable, enjoy the outdoor courtyard. ($$-$$$)

SIGN OF THE MERMAID, 9707 Gulf Drive, Anna Maria Island; (941) 778-9399. If we needed just one more reason to quit the job and spend eternity grazing on Anna Maria, this restaurant could do it. Snazzy appetizers - including Grilled Quail, Charred Rare Tuna, Escargot Fritters, Spanakopita, Hummus and Baba Ganoush, Baked Brie with Honeyed Walnuts - set the stage for a first-class production of entrees. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. Co-owner David Chapdelaine spent some time working with the Pleasant Peasant chain in Atlanta, and he learned well. Now he has teamed up with his wife, Julie, and chef Nui Thanasioangkuo to bring the experience to Tampa. The result is 220 East, a fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. The Hot Stickers are excellent. Also try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

VERNONA, at the Ritz-Carlton, 1111 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Sarasota; (941) 309-2008. One of Sarasota's prime dining spots can be found at the Ritz-Carlton. Expect the best here: impeccably prepared dishes, dignified service and an ornate dining room overlooking Sarasota Bay. The menu blends Mediterranean fare with fresh food indigenous to Florida's Gulf Coast, particularly seafood. Consider the roasted Maine lobster with asparagus risotto and an aromatic reduction sauce made from oranges, carrots and cumin. Other tantalizing options are a 10-ounce ahi tuna steak or Atlantic salmon, and prawn and scallop brochettes. Pasta, beef, veal, lamb and poultry dishes are highly recommended. ($$$)

Z GRILLE, 269 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 896-3101. Zack and Jennifer Gross hark from Southern California and bring their tastes and techniques to the Z Grille on Central Avenue, a nice addition to downtown's growing restaurant culture. An enticing beer list and shorts-casual atmosphere draws a lazy crowd from off the street, as well as the hungry from a neighboring cigar bar. Consider the Pork Filled Flautas, Blackened Grilled Shrimp Skewers, Towering Tostada, Z Grille Infused Chicken, and Dry Rubbed Ribeye. ($$)

MEXICAN/ SOUTHWESTERN

ALGUSTO TORTILLA & SALSA MEXICAN RESTAURANT, 912 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 250-3500. This colorful, casual cafe in the Hyde Park area has good guacamole, pork enchiladas and other Mexican fare. Its green mole is extremely hot. The place recently expanded with a second dining room. ($)

CARMELITA'S, 5211 Park St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 545-2956. Carmelita's has been cooking since 1983, and for good reason: The down-home casual atmosphere, inexpensive menu and hearty fare keep customers satisfied. Consider the generous, sizzling mound of ideally marinated beef that makes up the fajitas, along with fresh guacamole. The same goes for the delicious and filling Tacos al Carbon, the meat tender and laced with flavor. The kitchen creates a Del Rey wet burrito drenched in a heady ranchero sauce, and mixes scrambled eggs and Mexican sausage in the chorizo burrito. ($$)

CASA TINA, 369 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 734-9226. Tiny Casa Tina ambitiously attempts Mexican authenticity and variety, plus nongreasy dinners and a decent beer selection. The menu includes Enchiladas Verdes, Enchiladas en Salsa Roja, Tostada Vagabunda, Chiles Rellenos and Pollo en Mole Verde, among others. ($)

CHIHUAHUA MEXICAN GRILL, 4101 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 837-2138. This smartly designed spot in south Tampa blends the hot and cool primary colors of Mexico's flag around the motif of its namesake dog. The clean, cubistic decor enhances the fare: Generous, reasonably priced appetizers and entrees that reflect American tastes. Purists may nitpick, but the menu is pleasantly varied, the product fresh and flavorful, and meals presented without drowning in grease. Consider the Mexican Fajitas, served sizzling with sauteed veggies on a cast iron skillet, accompanied by a cilanto-lime infused rice, Monterey Jack cheese, fresh guacamole, sour cream and a pile of flour tortillas. ($$)

EL TACONAZO, 913 E. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 232-5889. Seminole Heights' beloved 'Taco Bus' serves up fresh, hearty Mexican favorites at a price that can't be beat. The colorful atmosphere is matched by the friendliness of the staff and the bright flavors of fresh cilantro, lime juice and sweet red onions in the chicken burrito. For starters, don't miss the shrimp ceviche. Who needs air conditioning? ($)

GUADALAJARA MEXICAN RESTAURANT, 4502 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-4096. This colorful eatery is attracting a large lunch crowd with a weekday special that includes two tacos (soft or hard), tostada, enchilada, rice and beans. The separate dinner menu includes beef or chicken fajitas, Carne Asada (grilled beef skirt steak), Mariachis (beef or chicken kebabs served on skewers with green pepper, tomatoes and onions) and short ribs. ($)

MIGUEL'S, 3035 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 876-2587. Good Mexican is hard to find around here, but this unpretentious little spot is a contender. The product is fresh, the kitchen creative, and the price doesn't sting. Nachos a la Miguel, beef or chicken, are good, as is the hearty Taco Salad. Miguel's offers five lunch specials for about $4 each, all of which cut the mustard nicely. ($)

MOE'S, 3810 W. Neptune St., Tampa; (813) 258-4560. Among the 'fast casual' Mexican chains, this is the one with fish or tofu tacos, and the widest array of salsas and hot sauces, all made on site with fresh ingredients. Also, they holler at you (in a nice way) when you come in. ($)

RED MESA, 4912 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-8728. The menu here is surprisingly large, with enough options to satisfy most tastes. Start with Queso Fundido, a Oaxaqueno-style cheese fondue with rajas de poblano, onions and mushrooms; Empanada turnovers stuffed with sirloin picadillo, salsa and sour cream; Cedar Roasted Salmon; and Enchilada de Marisco, shrimp and crab meat sauteed and rolled in corn tortillas, topped with smoked gouda creme. ($)

TAQUERIA MI MEXICO, 4205 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 387-0091. Searching for an authentic alternative to chain Mexican? This is the place. The refried beans are homemade, not canned. The salsa is ground from fresh chiles. And tortillas come with meals, not as a side order. Tacos, quesadillas, gorditas (meat-stuffed fried tortillas) and sopes (tortillas stuffed with refried beans and meat) can be filled with your choice of bistec (steak), pollo (chicken), lengua (tongue), barbacoa (barbecue), chorizo (Mexican sausage), sesos (brains), tripita (tripe), al pastor (roast pork), de fajita (shredded flank steak), de carnita (fried pork) or de mole (with mole sauce). You'll also find platters and four different kinds of salsa. ($)

TIJUANA FLATS, 10019 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 849-6900 (check the telephone book for other locations). Chain restaurant provides tasty Tex-Mex fare at reasonable prices. The buffet of hot sauces is not to be missed, nor is the cookie-dough burrito. Just don't mix them together. ($)

VALLARTA'S RESTAURANTE MEXICANO, 13731 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 264-7691 (check the telephone book for other locations). This cozy, family-friendly restaurant boasts more than 100 items on its menu. In addition to combination plates with three to four choices, diners can order sides and a la carte plates. This means you can design your own dinner, choosing from tacos, tostadas, chiles rellenos, quesadillas, chimichangas and fajitas - you name it. The Dale Mabry location offers a daily lunch buffet. ($)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

BEEF

BASCOM'S CHOP HOUSE, 3665 Ulmerton Road, Clearwater; (727) 573-3363. This American chop house showcases a variety of aged beef, hand-cut veal, pork and lamb chops, and a small selection of seafood. Try the expertly seared sea scallops, enhanced by baby spinach and grilled red onions. Enjoy a side dish called Gorgonzola Souffle, a cheesy bread pudding. ($$-$$$)

BERN'S STEAK HOUSE, 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2421. While Bern's is foremost a steakhouse, the menu offers some creative alternatives. Seafood selections can be topped with more than a dozen sauces, including curry mango butter, lobster emulsion and truffle jus. A slate of daily specials features fresh fish; a seafood sampler platter with Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams and mussels; and other offerings paired with wines. You'll also find pork chops, rack of lamb, and a vegetable sampler platter. The huge array of aged beef - priced by cut, weight and thickness - still draws moans of ecstasy. ($$$)

CHARLEY'S STEAK HOUSE & MARKET FRESH FISH, 4444 W. Cypress St., Tampa; (813) 353-9706. A lavish, attractive addition to Tampa's big-steaks showdown. The prime and choice steaks are the draw, especially the New York Strip and blue cheese-stuffed filet mignon. One of its seven dining rooms is private and has its own entrance. ($$$)

E&E STAKEOUT GRILL, 100 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-6399. E&E buys corn-fed, choice-grade Sterling Silver beef from the Platte River area between Nebraska and Colorado. The meat is aged at least 25 days and seasoned with cracked black pepper. Go for the 9-ounce, center-cut filet mignon, seared rare and served with a cloying bearnaise sauce. The 12-ounce New York Strip is the next best option, followed by the 14-ounce Delmonico. Those wanting to bust a buckle can wrestle down the 28-ounce Cowboy Steak, which could feed a small family. ($$-$$$)

FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 4322 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-9463. This attractive, luxurious restaurant is usually packed with diners, but not just for its prime meats and high-end menu. An annually revised list of 100 wines by the glass entices lovers of the grape. The restaurant carries a sophisticated but casual ambience, with its rich wood accents, exhibition kitchen, stylish bar, spacious booths and alabaster chandeliers. The a la carte menu offers a solid lineup of beef, pork, seafood and poultry, and entrees arrive on large, sizzling plates. Thick cuts of USDA corn-fed beef range from an 8-ounce petite filet to a 40-ounce porterhouse, seared over gas broilers and drenched in butter. ($$$)

LEATHERBACKS STEAKHOUSE, 15000 Madeira Way, Madeira Beach; (727) 399-2227. Steak, seafood, ribs and chicken fill the menu, along with pork and pasta dishes. Good starters are Carretta Crab Cakes with horseradish-cayenne aioli and Shroom Bloom's mushrooms stuffed with habanero cream cheese. For dinner, try Max's Mixed Grill, grilled lobster tail, grilled chicken and shrimp brushed with a tangy lime butter; or Fort Matanzas Shrimp stuffed with crab and punched up with a lemony butter sauce. ($$)

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 1700 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 282-1118. Ruth's Chris may be the business traveler's best friend, offering prime quality steaks in dozens of cities. The beef, undeniably exceptional, arrives hissing hot from an 1800-degree broiler, juices sealed within a perfectly charred exterior. To this, the kitchen adds a butter glaze, which spits furiously from the platters. Appetizers and side orders include Asparagus with Hollandaise, Sliced Tomato and Onion Salad, Potatoes Au Gratin, Creamed Spinach and Seared Ahi Tuna. ($$$)

SHULA'S STEAKHOUSE, Wyndham Westshore Hotel, 4860 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 286-4366. This upscale chain boasts a Miami Dolphins theme, including menus on footballs. Fancy steaks, from Kansas City strip to porterhouse, and a monster 32-ounce prime rib await those who like to dine on plainly prepared but delicious top-quality meats. Shula's also serves chicken breast, lobster, salmon, snapper and, of course, dolphin. ($$$)

SILAS DENT'S STEAKHOUSE & BAYSIDE BAR, 5501 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-6961. This beach eatery emphases top-notch steaks and seafood. Food is prepared straightforward, but with fresh, quality ingredients. Plus, there are extras such as homemade bread sprinkled with oatmeal and served with dried tomato cream cheese, a sorbet break between courses and a Parmesan dressing salad tossed tableside. ($-$$)

TEXAS CATTLE COMPANY, 2600 34th Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-3335. The market-style display (featuring hearty steaks and lobster) catches your attention at this cowboy-friendly eatery. A winner is the 18-ounce T-bone teamed with a baked lobster tail. Since the eatery opened in 1985, only a handful of people have the right to say they finished the 6-pound Texas Challenge - eating a 6-pound steak, salad, potato and bread in 75 minutes. If one finishes only half, the charge is $26. A skimpy finish (leaving more than 3 pounds) will cost $40. ($-$$)

WATERCOLOUR STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE, 1201 Gulf Blvd. (Marriott Sand Key), Clearwater Beach; (727) 596-1100. Yes, Virginia, there are some excellent restaurants along the beach, and Watercolour proves our point. The kitchen cooks up a delicious fillet of Chilean Sea Bass, and grills nothing but certified black Angus beef - expensive and worth it. Waterfront views and good service enhance the dining experience. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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