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Published: October 26, 2007

Updated: 10/24/2007 07:33 pm

SEAFOOD

BACKFIN BLUE CAFE, 2913 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; (727) 343-2583. Be prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner. ($)

BONEFISH GRILL, 5901 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg, (727) 521-3434; 3635 Henderson Blvd., Tampa, (813) 876-3535 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh seafood lures diners to this likable grill. Choose the fish - grouper, salmon, sea bass and mahi mahi - and then a topper such as lime-tomato garlic, mango or lemon butter sauce. You'll also find sirloin, jerk pork tenderloin, chicken and other sauteed specialties. ($-$$)

CATCH TWENTY-THREE, 10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center), Westchase; (813) 920-0045. Catch Twenty-Three prepares fresh seafood in contemporary, creative ways. The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast. Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and cooked over pecan wood. We had good luck with the Sun Tan Salmon, Black Grouper, Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna, and Shrimp Scampi Caribbean. ($-$$)

THE CRAB SHACK, 11400 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 576-7813. It's called The Crab Shack, and that's just what diners can expect: a shabby, authentic-looking fisherman's shack. Blue crabs, fish, oysters, spicy Cajun Creole soup and smoked mullet have kept patrons hooked for more than a decade. The menu also boasts about a dozen appetizers, a vast selection of sandwiches, a land lover's section (steak and chicken) and a couple of salads. The colossal Super Sea Food Feast features grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a crab cake, all lightly breaded and fried. The broiled grouper was perfectly cooked and topped with a blue crab and bread crumb stuffing that offered more meat than bread. And the Corvina Style Dinner, a house specialty, features a whole fish, usually in the snapper family, seasoned and deep fried. ($)

CRAZY CONCH CAFE, 1110 Pinellas Bayway, No. 206, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. Louisiana, Mexico, Florida and Texas are among the culinary influences at former Captiva chef Michael Peel's Tierra Verde restaurant. Seafood Gumbo with andouille sausage, Smothered Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Steven's Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Local Red Grouper are spicy choices at this casual cafe overlooking Tampa Bay. Chocolate terrine, apple crisp, lime cheesecake and rum Bundt cake are great desserts. ($$-$$$)

FRENCHY'S ROCKAWAY GRILL & BEACH CLUB, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater Beach; (727) 446-4844. Visitors to Clearwater Beach are familiar with the Frenchy's restaurant empire, where fresh seafood can be found at affordable prices. But Frenchy's Rockaway Grill & Beach Club has one advantage the others don't - outdoor dining on a patio deck smack on the beach. The extensive menu is filled with appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Nightly dinner specials range from steaks and seafood platters to pasta and ribs. Fresh seafood, of course, is a mainstay of the menu. ($)

HAPPY FISH SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 4046 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 870-3474. This family-run eatery specializes in Latino-style seafood dishes. Fresh fish is the centerpiece here and diners can pick their own from a large refrigerated display case. Red snapper, yellowtail, grouper, blue marlin and king fish and mahi mahi are among the choices. Lobster, chicken, steak and pork dishes are also on the menu. ($)

HURRICANE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-9558. The Hurricane, with its second-floor, sea-view dining room, looks nothing like its former beach shack self. But the famous Fresh Grouper Sandwich is still on the menu, people still complain about the wimpy bun, and most of the food is still under $10. Appetizers and desserts are good. Entrees are uneven. ($)

ISLAND WAY GRILL, 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617. Wall-to-wall patrons jam this Pan-Asian seafood stop. Favorites from chef-partner Tom Pritchard's kitchen include Szechwan Pepper Crusted Tuna, Vietnamese King Crab Rolls and Wok-Seared Scallops. Landlubbers have plenty to choose, too, with a dozen steaks, Javanese Pork Tenderloin, Hawaiian Kona Rack of Lamb and Volcano Island Meatloaf. Save room for a dessert sampler, with ginger Creme Brulee, Warm Molten Lava Chocolate Cake and Key lime pie. ($$-$$$)

KEEGAN'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 1519 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-2477. As the name implies, seafood is the main attraction at this laid-back beach eatery. The eclectic menu features dishes such as Pan-Seared Wahoo over Asian Slaw, Amarillo Char-Broiled Swordfish, and Andouille and Scallop Stuffed Tilapia. Salmon Piccata sauteed with lemon and capers is a tasty choice, as is the Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi served with black bean salsa. You'll also find salads, sandwiches and decadent desserts. ($-$$)

LANDRY'S SEAFOOD HOUSE, 7616 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 289-7773. The seafood palace on the shore of Tampa Bay may remind some of a Disney dining room, so grand is the scale. But the fish, fresh and creatively presented, lives up to the view. There's tuna, flounder, catfish, grouper, red snapper, salmon, shrimp galore, crab, lobster (tail and whole), oysters, plus five pasta dishes and a few chicken and beef choices. Diners select seafood, then sauces and toppings, which include Roasted Red Pepper and more. ($$)

THE LOBSTER POT, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 391-8592. The place to go to get out of your shell and into something else's. Comfortable but cultured: The bowling shirt's OK, but please use your napkin. Lobster selection here is the best around. Go for the African tails - tender and sweet - and you won't be disappointed. Aside from lobster, there's a wide array of fresh fish, prepared in numerous ways. Nightly specials plump a menu that's already fat with choice. Don't pass over the Escargot Eugen. It is one of the finest man has known. ($$)

MANGROVES SEAFOOD GRILLE AND BAR, 208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3302. Readers are forever calling to ask about fresh seafood, and we point them toward Mangroves Seafood Grille and Bar, where luscious catches from the ocean are the marquee event. Consider the Tower of Spicy Tuna Tar-tar with Korean chiles; plantain-crusted Tiger Prawns on a grilled pineapple disc; bamboo steamed Atlantic salmon atop a heavenly coconut-ginger rice cake; and sauteed Chilean sea bass wrapped in purple Peruvian potato sheets. Carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the 16-ounce, premium, dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye drizzled with green peppercorn reduction. ($$-$$$)

MARLIN DARLIN' GRILL, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 584-1700. When you sink a small fortune into decor, offer fresh seafood, hire a crack serving staff and stock the bar with a strong list of beer and wine, you have the recipe for success. This fine catch not far from the Gulf is a favorite among locals, especially for just about anything from the sea. Early birds can enjoy a dozen entrees for $10. ($$-$$$)

MID PENINSULA SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT, 400 49th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 327-8309. You won't find escargot and fancy sauces at this no-frills eatery. The menu is loaded with fish selections, though, including sea bass, snapper and grouper, which can be ordered fried, grilled, scampi, blackened or steamed. Non-seafood eaters will find sirloin burgers, corn dogs and chicken. For dessert, try the red velvet cake. ($-$$)

MONSTAH LOBSTAH, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-0800 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh Maine lobster is the ticket at Monstah Lobstah, a rustic little haunt doing a brisk business, mostly takeout. Don't expect fine dining or tables - this place is blue jeans casual and the majority of patrons grab a dinner to go. The menu includes lobster with corn on the cob and potato salad; lobster rolls; and New England chowder. Bring your own beer if you want to eat in. ($-$$)

MYSTIC FISH SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800. Chef Doug Bebell, a Lobster Pot alumnus, is creative with ingredients in dishes such as Lobster Escargot Style, Black & Blue Tuna and Oven Roasted Chilean Sea Bass. The restaurant serves steaks, chicken and lamb as well. ($-$$)

NICK'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 1203 Gulf Road, Tarpon Springs; (727) 937-3444 or (727) 937-0882. Nick's specialty is combination pizzas, seafood (a good bet is the U-Peel-Um Pepper Shrimp), spaghetti and sandwiches. ($)

OYSTERCATCHERS, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 207-6815. Few restaurants capture the spirit of Florida dining quite like Oystercatchers at the Hyatt Regency Westshore. Windows point to the sun's descent over Old Tampa Bay. Inside, cool colors borrowed from nature complete the theme. Fish selections include American Red Snapper, Florida Mahi-Mahi, Norwegian Salmon, New Zealand Orange Roughy, Gulf Coast Black Grouper, Atlantic Swordfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Idaho Rainbow Trout and Louisiana Pompano. ($$)

RED FISH BLUE FISH, 2901 Alternate 19 N., Palm Harbor; (727) 772-7060. Generous portions of fresh seafood lure diners to this colorful, family-friendly spot. The Sea Sampler platter, for instance, is a monster mound of crisp conch fritters, grouper, calamari and spiral-cut fries. Other seafood options include lump crab cakes, raw oysters and clams. You'll also find pizzas (portobello, spinach Alfredo, shrimp scampi and jerk chicken are among the varieties), steaks, baby back ribs and burgers. ($$)

RUSTY BELLIES, 937 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-4047. This family-run, family-friendly seafood restaurant is the best kind of monopoly: they catch the fish, they cook the fish and you get to eat it. Try a steamer pot with a selection from the sophisticated beer list, or order the catch of the day, any way you like it. ($$)

RUSTY PELICAN, 2425 Rocky Point Drive, Tampa; (813) 281-1943. Wading in the shallows of Old Tampa Bay, the Rusty Pelican offers a beautiful view and a menu that's more than skin deep. It's loaded with seafood choices - including a scrumptious Seared Sesame Ahi - but meat lovers will find plenty to keep them busy. ($$)

THE SANDBAR RESTAURANT, 100 Spring Ave., Anna Maria (on Anna Maria Island); (941) 778-0444. Perched directly on the Gulf, the Sandbar offers both inside and deck dining, with separate menus for both. You can easily make a meal of the appetizers, which include oysters Rockefeller, fried calamari, conch fritters and smoked fish dip. Sandwiches include fried grouper and tuna and salmon filets. Dinner entrees focus on seafood, steak and chicken. ($$)

SEA CRITTERS CAFE, 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-3706. One of the joys of this casual eatery is that you don't have to change out of your swimsuit just because the stomach signals dinner time. Sea Critters offers dock-side (catch some rays), deck-side (under a roof) or inside dining. If you choose indoors, most of the restaurant offers a splendid view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Best bets are Carbone's Scampi Magnifico, the Hail Caesar salad and crab cakes. ($$)

SEA PORCH CAFE AT THE DON CESAR BEACH RESORT & SPA, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881. A natural draw with its outdoor umbrella tables and Florida bistro menu, this cafe offers casual chic dining. Because the restaurant faces the Gulf of Mexico is reason enough to go. But entrees are also spectacular such as cedar roasted salmon with Ruskin spinach salad, served on a plank of wood. Also, a rosemary rotisserie half chicken has a surprising homey touch of a stream of gravy and 'fingerling' or skinny roasted potato slices. ($$)

SHELLS, 202 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; 875-3467 (check the telephone book for other locations). Northern visitors love the Shells chain. How come? Value. Giant portions. Low prices. Shells is a chain, but it started in Tampa. For us, the original South Dale Mabry location still feels like a one-of-a-kind. The menu is packed with staples such as Shrimp Scampi, but often the best bet is the nightly fresh fish special. There's a decent Caesar salad and a tangy Key lime pie. . ($$)

SNAPPER'S, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550. If you crave fresh, creatively prepared seafood, Snapper's is the catch of the day. The restaurant features a tasteful, stylish interior with an open kitchen that scores big points both for quality and quantity - and a penchant for brilliant fruit sauces to complement entrees. Stellar appetizers include Blueberry Tuna served over wilted greens and drizzled with blueberry teriyaki, and Oyster Osceola baked with spinach chorizo, jack cheese and jalapeno. A standout entree is the Wasabi-Crusted Tuna Steak, seared and served blood rare (our call) with a wasabi mashed potato. ($$-$$$)

SPLASH!, 3973 Van Dyke Road, Tampa (off North Dale Mabry Highway in Northgate Plaza); (813) 269-8611. While entree prices at this Northdale eatery don't dip below $12, nor do they empty the wallets of diners looking for a swell date night out. Seafood, particularly in the inventive appetizers, is the main attraction of the charmingly retro menu. Try Crab Martini, served in a very trendy martini glass, accompanied by pearl onions, lemons and olives. Maine lobster shows up several times over, most successfully in the Lobster Thermidor - an empty shell stuffed abundantly with sweet, moist meat that's topped with a smooth, buttery cream sauce. If trying the fresh catch, go for the version that's oak-grilled and sitting atop a lobster and cognac sauce. ($$)

THIRSTY MARLIN GRILL & BAR, 1023 Florida Ave., Palm Harbor; (727) 784-3469. The kitchen focuses its talents on seafood, turning out creative renditions of standards - think a generous fillet of salmon topped with caramelized onions cooked atop a real cedar plank - along with its own inventions. Those include Sam's Seafood Strudel, a phyllo pocket stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster and dressed in a Caribbean remoulade sauce. Even simple creations, such as blackened mahi mahi with a ketchup-based Bahamian dipping sauce, bring mouthwatering flavors to the table. The Caribbean Jambalaya, yellow rice with chunks of jerk chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp in a spicy Caribbean sauce, was a taste sensation. ($$)

WHARF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-9469. Window perches along the Intracoastal Waterway and a slate of fresh fish draw diners by land and by sea, some in shorts and flip-flops. The restaurant, best known as the 1910 site of the Bell family's fish processing plant, even offers a 'You Hook It: We'll Cook It' entree for anglers. If the fish aren't biting, there's plenty already caught, including shrimp, scallops, clams, mahi-mahi, albacore tuna, crabs, grouper, cracked conch and raw oysters, plus a few chickens and steers that somehow wound up in the net. ($)

MEDITERRANEAN/ PERSIAN

ACROPOLIS GREEK TAVERNA, 1833 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 242-4545. Owner Costa Waez has turned a former pizzeria into a Mediterranean experience. Hearty appetites should consider the moussaka, a casserole layered with seasoned ground beef, sliced eggplant, zucchini, potatoes and a rich cream sauce, all topped with tomato sauce. The Acropolis Sampler comes with four spreads: tzatziki, taramasalata (carp roe puree), melitzanosalata (whipped eggplant) and hummus (crushed chickpeas). Fried squid (tentacles and all) is served crisp from the fryer, with a few slices of red pepper adding color. Greek wines and pastries round out the menu. ($-$$)

ATHENIAN GARDEN, 2900 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg (in the Coconut Grove shopping center); (727) 822-2000. This neighborhood restaurant's menu features lamb chops, shish kebabs, baked chicken and other Greek specialties. You'll also find broiled, blackened or fried fish; moussaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes and beef); and pastitsio (macaroni and beef). Souvlaki is a hit with tender cubes of lamb, green peppers and onions. The dish is served with hot rice and slices of pita bread. ($-$$)

BYBLOS CAFE, 2832 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977. This south Tampa cafe offers a fine assortment of Mediterranean and Lebanese fare, including labneh, falafel, spicy sausage and stuffed grape leaves. The tender and juicy kebabs are made with filet mignon and the plump lamb chops are loaded with flavor. Consider ordering shawarma: tangy beef or chicken breast strips fragrant with spices such as paprika, cloves and cinnamon. ($-$$)

CAFE ALMA, 260 First Ave. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 502-5002. Owners Dwight and Catherine Watkins teamed up with chef Christian Briner to create a casual cafe specializing in Mediterranean fusion fare. The pungent aroma of freshly made stocks and sauces waft through the dining room, and earthy ingredients hint of the cuisines of Turkey, Greece and Morocco. ($$)

CAFE PONTE, 13505 Icot Blvd., Clearwater (in the Icot Center); (727) 538-5768. Chef Christopher Ponte serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with light Asian and French touches. Entrees of note include ravioli filled with goat cheese and butternut squash, topped with a brown butter sauce; pan-roasted snapper bathed in a tomato-ginger broth; and potato-crusted sea bass. Try to save room for the Petit Four Plate, a sampler platter of the day's desserts. ($$-$$$)

THE GARDEN, 217 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-3800. Amid the offices of downtown St. Petersburg, a giant old banyan tree shades a lush courtyard. There, in a forest of flavors, sits The Garden. Hearty appetites might consider the Traditional North African Couscous - not merely the granular semolina, but a stew of lamb, carrots, green cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, raisins and chick peas. With artist and writer round tables, bourbon and wine tastings, themed dinners and weekend jazz, the owners have cleared a special place among St. Petersburg's restaurants. ($)

GENGIZ KHAN, 6102 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-6400. This charming Turkish restaurant uses mostly organic ingredients in a menu heavy on grilled meats and fresh salads and spreads. Highlights include a stellar falafel sandwich, stuffed grape leaves, delicious salads and the chicken shish. ($$)

GRECIAN ISLAND RESTAURANT, 223 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2222. This cozy Davis Islands eatery serves mostly standard American fare - sandwiches, burgers and hot plate lunches - with Greek dishes rounding out the menu. Daily specials might include pastitsio, a sort of lasagna made with ground beef and noodles and served with a tomato and cinnamon sauce; or fila, grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice and served with a lemon sauce. ($)

GRECKO GRILL, 13331 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 399-5909. This casual eatery offers Greek and Continental fare under one roof. The Tour of Greece platter lets you sample moussaka (layered eggplant, beef and lamb topped with bechamel sauce), pastitsio (a similar casserole with macaroni and tomato sauce) and a stuffed cabbage roll. The catch of the day is fresh fish cooked to your liking: grilled, blackened or fried. The Broiled Combo Extravaganza is a good mixture of grouper, shrimp, scallops and crab cakes. Appetizers are a must: Try the stuffed grape leaves or one of the tasty spreads - hummus, tzatziki (cucumber-garlic), feta and olives or skordalia (potatoes and garlic) - each served with pita triangles. ($$-$$$)

HELLAS, 785 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 943-2400. This spacious, casual restaurant has an attached bakery offering cafe-style seating. Diners are encouraged to stroll into the bakery area to select their dessert, which will be served at their table. Or pay for your dinner and take a seat in the bakery cafe, if you prefer. The menu offers an array of Greek specialties, from saganaki (flaming cheese appetizer) to gyro and souvlaki pita sandwiches. Entrees include moussaka, pastitsio, shish kebab, lamb and a selection of seafood and fish. After eating, stroll the historic Tarpon Springs sponge docks to work off those calories. ($)

LOUIS PAPPAS MARKET CAFE, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-0000 (check the telephone book for other locations). Louis Pappas' Riverside Restaurant may be a Tarpon Springs institution, but the venerable eatery gave birth to a litter of little cafes, and their popularity speaks for itself. Delicious dishes include the Greek-a-dillas, sliced lamb or grilled chicken with blended cheeses and scallions stuffed inside flour tortillas; the Shrimp and Feta Marinara; and the Greek herb-rubbed roasted chicken with a lemon-garlic sauce. Salads, gryos, soups and spreads are all tasty and satisfying. ($)

MASSIMO'S, 31876 U.S. 19 N. (in the Commons at Twin Lakes), Palm Harbor; (727) 784-1881. Chef Massimo Patano's ambitious Mediterranean menu features fresh fish, poultry, pasta and lots of veal. Veal Scaloppine, with crisp artichokes, asparagus and pine nuts, gets an A for its light, lemony butter sauce. Pasta dishes are standouts, too. Homemade strands of pappardelle, lobster and porcini mushrooms are tossed with Parmesan cheese and served in an edible baked-cheese basket. The chef's affinity for dessert shows with Three Cheese Cheesecake Surprise, Chocolate Risotto with macadamia nuts, Chocolate Pate, espresso sorbet and tiramisu. ($$-$$$)

MIRAGE RESTAURANT, 2284 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 724-3604. You'll find Persian-Mediterranean cooking here with an emphasis on kebabs. Beef, lamb and chicken kebabs are richly flavored and served with rice topped with saffron, grilled vegetables and pita bread. Try the refreshing yogurt and cucumber sauce flavored with herbs, the delicious hummus (chickpeas, garlic and lemon juice), or the tasty kibbeh (meatballs made with beef and cracked wheat). There's a daily lunch buffet, plus an expanded buffet for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant really hops on weekends, when a belly dancer performs. ($-$$)

MORAE'S CAFE, 1441 E. Fletcher Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-6018. This cozy, quiet restaurant specializes in shish kebabs and Persian cuisine. Kebab choices include long, juicy strips of marinated chicken and steak filet, seasoned beef, shrimp, lamb and vegetables. Traditional Persian dishes include qormeh sabzia, a combination of red beans, spinach, parsley and steak cubes. You'll also find gyros, sandwiches and salads. ($)

PELAGIA TRATTORIA, Renaissance Tampa Hotel, International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235. This hip restaurant offers a modern twist on Mediterranean cuisine with a menu that includes pizza, pasta, bouillabaisse, veal and steaks. Braised Mussels a la Provencal, sweet mollusks flecked with little bites of Merguez sausage, were large and satisfying. Another great appetizer is Caesar Fondue, baby romaine briefly grilled to give it a wonderful smoky flavor and served with garlic focaccia bread and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pasta dishes include Coco Pappardelle with osso buco ragu, and a potato and sage gnocchi with a fresh butternut sauce. End the meal with a phyllo-encased Golden Apple Tart with fresh rosemary and a luscious caramel sauce. ($$-$$$)

PACIFIC RIM

THE BAMBOO CLUB, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-0326. Pacific Rim favorites are steamed, sizzled, woked and flash fried. Don't miss Woked Vietnamese Shrimp and Chicken with a zesty cracked pepper and soy sauce. Thai Spicy Shrimp with green beans gets zip from crushed red peppers. Squid fans should order the Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad. Bamboo Club also serves wonderful fried spinach, crisp woked beef and lemon grass shrimp. Three noodle dishes can be served as soup or woked entrees. ($$-$$$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

ZEN FORREST, 4148 Rowan Road, New Port Richey; (727) 372-9545. Take a trek through Asia without a hefty travel bill by savoring Chef Victor Wang's artful dishes, inspired by the cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand and beyond. The delicious and healthful meals include a chicken and rice soup featuring a hint of anise, Thai Coconut Curry with lemon grass-infused chicken, and a seafood feast of shrimp, calamari, mussels, sea scallops and vegetables over fried noodles. ($$-$$$)

CHINESE

CHINA BUFFET, 1245 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 615-1310. The star attraction of this all-you-can-eat buffet is its surprisingly fresh, high-quality sushi. For lunch, they have an ample variety of sushi rolls, with a few pieces of nigiri (strips of fish atop fingers of rice) here and there. Plus there's vegetarian sushi for those who haven't yet made the leap to raw fish. For dinner, they put out more nigiri, which requires much more fish. The rest of the buffet is the standard fare of most Chinese restaurants - noodles, vegetables, different types of pork and chicken, soups and salad-makings. They also offer you-peel-'em crawdads and cold shrimp. ($)

CHINA GARDEN, 3904 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 805-2929. Arrive hungry and prepare to dine in a cafeterialike atmosphere with big crowds who come for the super lunch and dinner buffets. Daily features include a Mongolian 'u-pick it, they cook it' BBQ. Choose from raw pork, chicken, beef and fresh vegetables, which you hand over to be sizzled on the griddle. Soups, sushi, dim sum, Korean kimchi, egg rolls, barbecue spare rib tips, fried rice and crisp green beans line up next to Egg Foo Young, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Hunan Shrimp, Peking Duck and Pork Lo Mein and much, much more. ($)

CHINA YUAN RESTAURANT, 8502 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 936-7388. If your taste buds need excitement, consider China Yuan. A visit here is not a trip to Chinatown but to China. This authentic Cantonese spot is not Americanized, but a good place to explore new tastes. Try the Fresh Squid in Pepper and Black Bean Sauce or ask if the sweet blue crab dishes are available. Other good choices include Sizzling Pork Chops, Snow Pea Tips (an entree of flavorful, bright green leaves) and fried rice cooked with shrimp, chicken and ham. ($-$$)

HAO WAH, 1713 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-2095. For appetizers, check out an order of six steamed dumplings, crab meat Rangoon, Chinese roast pork or fantail shrimp. A simple but tasty dish for $7 is honey chicken, the nuggets of breast meat crisp and butter fried, served with a sweet honey sauce. Other good bets are the flavorful Shrimp With Cashew Nuts, Seven Stars Around the Moon, the sizzling Goba and Flower Basket Delight. ($-$$)

P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO, 219 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-8400. The menu is representative of the major culinary regions of China (Hunan, Sichuan, Canton, Shanghai, Beijing), with a few Southeast Asian dishes thrown in. Entrees come with both white and brown rice, along with soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar. Try Spicy Ground Chicken and Eggplant, the minced chicken perfectly complementing the smooth wedges of eggplant. Cantonese Roasted Duck is presented with steamed wheat buns, julienned cucumbers and scallions, and plum and hoisin sauces. Chang's Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps (spicy chicken, water chestnuts and mushrooms) is a must-try appetizer. ($-$$)

T.C. CHOY'S ASIAN BISTRO, 301 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-1191. This Oriental bistro cooks up more than 100 Chinese dishes, including eel, octopus, abalone, shark's fin, Mongolian Beef, Japanese Seaweed Salad, Honey Glazed Scallops and whole Beijing duck. You'll also find 30 to 40 dim sum selections. Vegetarians will have no trouble finding zesty options. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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