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The Tampa Tribune

Published: September 14, 2007

Updated: 09/12/2007 08:11 pm

SEAFOOD

BACKFIN BLUE CAFE, 2913 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; (727) 343-2583. Be prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner. ($)

CATCH TWENTY-THREE, 10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center), Westchase; (813) 920-0045. Catch Twenty-Three prepares fresh seafood in contemporary, creative ways. The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast. Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and cooked over pecan wood. We had good luck with the Sun Tan Salmon, Black Grouper, Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna, and Shrimp Scampi Caribbean. ($-$$)

THE CRAB SHACK, 11400 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 576-7813. It's called The Crab Shack, and that's just what diners can expect: a shabby, authentic-looking fisherman's shack. Blue crabs, fish, oysters, spicy Cajun Creole soup and smoked mullet have kept patrons hooked for more than a decade. The menu also boasts about a dozen appetizers, a vast selection of sandwiches, a land lover's section (steak and chicken) and a couple of salads. The colossal Super Sea Food Feast features grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a crab cake, all lightly breaded and fried. The broiled grouper was perfectly cooked and topped with a blue crab and bread crumb stuffing that offered more meat than bread. And the Corvina Style Dinner, a house specialty, features a whole fish, usually in the snapper family, seasoned and deep fried. ($)

CRAZY CONCH CAFE, 1110 Pinellas Bayway, No. 206, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. Louisiana, Mexico, Florida and Texas are among the culinary influences at former Captiva chef Michael Peel's Tierra Verde restaurant. Seafood Gumbo with andouille sausage, Smothered Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Steven's Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Local Red Grouper are spicy choices at this casual cafe overlooking Tampa Bay. Chocolate terrine, apple crisp, lime cheesecake and rum Bundt cake are great desserts. ($$-$$$)

FRENCHY'S ROCKAWAY GRILL & BEACH CLUB, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater Beach; (727) 446-4844. Visitors to Clearwater Beach are familiar with the Frenchy's restaurant empire, where fresh seafood can be found at affordable prices. But Frenchy's Rockaway Grill & Beach Club has one advantage the others don't - outdoor dining on a patio deck smack on the beach. The extensive menu is filled with appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Nightly dinner specials range from steaks and seafood platters to pasta and ribs. Fresh seafood, of course, is a mainstay of the menu. ($)

HURRICANE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-9558. The Hurricane, with its second-floor, sea-view dining room, looks nothing like its former beach shack self. But the famous Fresh Grouper Sandwich is still on the menu, people still complain about the wimpy bun, and most of the food is still under $10. Appetizers and desserts are good. Entrees are uneven. ($)

ISLAND WAY GRILL, 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617. Wall-to-wall patrons jam this Pan-Asian seafood stop. Favorites from chef-partner Tom Pritchard's kitchen include Szechwan Pepper Crusted Tuna, Vietnamese King Crab Rolls and Wok-Seared Scallops. Landlubbers have plenty to choose, too, with a dozen steaks, Javanese Pork Tenderloin, Hawaiian Kona Rack of Lamb and Volcano Island Meatloaf. Save room for a dessert sampler, with ginger Creme Brulee, Warm Molten Lava Chocolate Cake and Key lime pie. ($$-$$$)

KEEGAN'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 1519 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-2477. As the name implies, seafood is the main attraction at this laid-back beach eatery. The eclectic menu features dishes such as Pan-Seared Wahoo over Asian Slaw, Amarillo Char-Broiled Swordfish, and Andouille and Scallop Stuffed Tilapia. Salmon Piccata sauteed with lemon and capers is a tasty choice, as is the Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi served with black bean salsa. You'll also find salads, sandwiches and decadent desserts. ($-$$)

LANDRY'S SEAFOOD HOUSE, 7616 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 289-7773. The seafood palace on the shore of Tampa Bay may remind some of a Disney dining room, so grand is the scale. But the fish, fresh and creatively presented, lives up to the view. There's tuna, flounder, catfish, grouper, red snapper, salmon, shrimp galore, crab, lobster (tail and whole), oysters, plus five pasta dishes and a few chicken and beef choices. Diners select seafood, then sauces and toppings, which include Roasted Red Pepper and more. ($$)

THE LOBSTER POT, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 391-8592. The place to go to get out of your shell and into something else's. Comfortable but cultured: The bowling shirt's OK, but please use your napkin. Lobster selection here is the best around. Go for the African tails - tender and sweet - and you won't be disappointed. Aside from lobster, there's a wide array of fresh fish, prepared in numerous ways. Nightly specials plump a menu that's already fat with choice. Don't pass over the Escargot Eugen. It is one of the finest man has known. ($$)

MANGROVES SEAFOOD GRILLE AND BAR, 208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3302. Readers are forever calling to ask about fresh seafood, and we point them toward Mangroves Seafood Grille and Bar, where luscious catches from the ocean are the marquee event. Consider the Tower of Spicy Tuna Tar-tar with Korean chiles; plantain-crusted Tiger Prawns on a grilled pineapple disc; bamboo steamed Atlantic salmon atop a heavenly coconut-ginger rice cake; and sauteed Chilean sea bass wrapped in purple Peruvian potato sheets. Carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the 16-ounce, premium, dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye drizzled with green peppercorn reduction. ($$-$$$)

MARLIN DARLIN' GRILL, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 584-1700. When you sink a small fortune into decor, offer fresh seafood, hire a crack serving staff and stock the bar with a strong list of beer and wine, you have the recipe for success. This fine catch not far from the Gulf is a favorite among locals, especially for just about anything from the sea. ($$-$$$)

MID PENINSULA SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT, 400 49th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 327-8309. You won't find escargot and fancy sauces at this no-frills eatery. The menu is loaded with fish selections, though, including sea bass, snapper and grouper, which can be ordered fried, grilled, scampi, blackened or steamed. Non-seafood eaters will find sirloin burgers, corn dogs and chicken. For dessert, try the red velvet cake. ($-$$)

MONSTAH LOBSTAH, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-0800 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh Maine lobster is the ticket at Monstah Lobstah, a rustic little haunt doing a brisk business, mostly takeout. Don't expect fine dining or tables - this place is blue jeans casual and the majority of patrons grab a dinner to go. The menu includes lobster with corn on the cob and potato salad; lobster rolls; and New England chowder. Bring your own beer if you want to eat in. ($-$$)

MYSTIC FISH SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800. Chef Doug Bebell, a Lobster Pot alumnus, is creative with ingredients in dishes such as Lobster Escargot Style, Black & Blue Tuna and Oven Roasted Chilean Sea Bass. The restaurant serves steaks, chicken and lamb as well. ($-$$)

NICK'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 1203 Gulf Road, Tarpon Springs; (727) 937-3444 or (727) 937-0882. Nick's specialty is combination pizzas, seafood (a good bet is the U-Peel-Um Pepper Shrimp), spaghetti and sandwiches. ($)

OYSTERCATCHERS, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 207-6815. Few restaurants capture the spirit of Florida dining quite like Oystercatchers at the Hyatt Regency Westshore. Windows point to the sun's descent over Old Tampa Bay. Inside, cool colors borrowed from nature complete the theme. Fish selections include American Red Snapper, Florida Mahi-Mahi, Norwegian Salmon, New Zealand Orange Roughy, Gulf Coast Black Grouper, Atlantic Swordfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Idaho Rainbow Trout and Louisiana Pompano. ($$)

RUSTY BELLIES, 937 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-4047. This family-run, family-friendly seafood restaurant is the best kind of monopoly: they catch the fish, they cook the fish and you get to eat it. Try a steamer pot with a selection from the sophisticated beer list, or order the catch of the day, any way you like it. ($$)

SEA CRITTERS CAFE, 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-3706. One of the joys of this casual eatery is that you don't have to change out of your swimsuit just because the stomach signals dinner time. Sea Critters offers dock-side (catch some rays), deck-side (under a roof) or inside dining. If you choose indoors, most of the restaurant offers a splendid view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Best bets are Carbone's Scampi Magnifico, the Hail Caesar salad and crab cakes. ($$)

SEA PORCH CAFE AT THE DON CESAR BEACH RESORT & SPA, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881. A natural draw with its outdoor umbrella tables and Florida bistro menu, this cafe offers casual chic dining. Because the restaurant faces the Gulf of Mexico is reason enough to go. But entrees are also spectacular such as cedar roasted salmon with Ruskin spinach salad, served on a plank of wood. Also, a rosemary rotisserie half chicken has a surprising homey touch of a stream of gravy and 'fingerling' or skinny roasted potato slices. ($$)

SNAPPER'S, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550. If you crave fresh, creatively prepared seafood, Snapper's is the catch of the day. The restaurant features a tasteful, stylish interior with an open kitchen that scores big points both for quality and quantity - and a penchant for brilliant fruit sauces to complement entrees. Stellar appetizers include Blueberry Tuna served over wilted greens and drizzled with blueberry teriyaki, and Oyster Osceola baked with spinach chorizo, jack cheese and jalapeno. A standout entree is the Wasabi-Crusted Tuna Steak, seared and served blood rare (our call) with a wasabi mashed potato. ($$-$$$)

SPLASH!, 3973 Van Dyke Road, Tampa (off North Dale Mabry Highway in Northgate Plaza); (813) 269-8611. While entree prices at this Northdale eatery don't dip below $12, nor do they empty the wallets of diners looking for a swell date night out. Seafood, particularly in the inventive appetizers, is the main attraction of the charmingly retro menu. Try Crab Martini, served in a very trendy martini glass, accompanied by pearl onions, lemons and olives. Maine lobster shows up several times over, most successfully in the Lobster Thermidor - an empty shell stuffed abundantly with sweet, moist meat that's topped with a smooth, buttery cream sauce. If trying the fresh catch, go for the version that's oak-grilled and sitting atop a lobster and cognac sauce. ($$)

THIRSTY MARLIN GRILL & BAR, 1023 Florida Ave., Palm Harbor; (727) 784-3469. The kitchen focuses its talents on seafood, turning out creative renditions of standards - think a generous fillet of salmon topped with caramelized onions cooked atop a real cedar plank - along with its own inventions. Those include Sam's Seafood Strudel, a phyllo pocket stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster and dressed in a Caribbean remoulade sauce. Even simple creations, such as blackened mahi mahi with a ketchup-based Bahamian dipping sauce, bring mouthwatering flavors to the table. The Caribbean Jambalaya, yellow rice with chunks of jerk chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp in a spicy Caribbean sauce, was a taste sensation. ($$)

WHARF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-9469. Window perches along the Intracoastal Waterway and a slate of fresh fish draw diners by land and by sea, some in shorts and flip-flops. The restaurant, best known as the 1910 site of the Bell family's fish processing plant, even offers a 'You Hook It: We'll Cook It' entree for anglers. If the fish aren't biting, there's plenty already caught, including shrimp, scallops, clams, mahi-mahi, albacore tuna, crabs, grouper, cracked conch and raw oysters, plus a few chickens and steers that somehow wound up in the net. ($)

MEDITERRANEAN/ PERSIAN

ACROPOLIS GREEK TAVERNA, 1833 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 242-4545. Owner Costa Waez has turned a former pizzeria into a Mediterranean experience. Hearty appetites should consider the moussaka, a casserole layered with seasoned ground beef, sliced eggplant, zucchini, potatoes and a rich cream sauce, all topped with tomato sauce. The Acropolis Sampler comes with four spreads: tzatziki, taramasalata (carp roe puree), melitzanosalata (whipped eggplant) and hummus (crushed chickpeas). Fried squid (tentacles and all) is served crisp from the fryer, with a few slices of red pepper adding color. Greek wines and pastries round out the menu. ($-$$)

ATHENIAN GARDEN, 2900 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg (in the Coconut Grove shopping center); (727) 822-2000. This neighborhood restaurant's menu features lamb chops, shish kebabs, baked chicken and other Greek specialties. You'll also find broiled, blackened or fried fish; moussaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes and beef); and pastitsio (macaroni and beef). Souvlaki is a hit with tender cubes of lamb, green peppers and onions. The dish is served with hot rice and slices of pita bread. ($-$$)

BYBLOS CAFE, 2832 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977. This south Tampa cafe offers a fine assortment of Mediterranean and Lebanese fare, including labneh, falafel, spicy sausage and stuffed grape leaves. The tender and juicy kebabs are made with filet mignon and the plump lamb chops are loaded with flavor. Consider ordering shawarma: tangy beef or chicken breast strips fragrant with spices such as paprika, cloves and cinnamon. ($-$$)

CAFE ALMA, 260 First Ave. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 502-5002. Owners Dwight and Catherine Watkins teamed up with chef Christian Briner to create a casual cafe specializing in Mediterranean fusion fare. The pungent aroma of freshly made stocks and sauces waft through the dining room, and earthy ingredients hint of the cuisines of Turkey, Greece and Morocco. ($$)

CAFE PONTE, 13505 Icot Blvd., Clearwater (in the Icot Center); (727) 538-5768. Chef Christopher Ponte serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with light Asian and French touches. Entrees of note include ravioli filled with goat cheese and butternut squash, topped with a brown butter sauce; pan-roasted snapper bathed in a tomato-ginger broth; and potato-crusted sea bass. Try to save room for the Petit Four Plate, a sampler platter of the day's desserts. ($$-$$$)

THE GARDEN, 217 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-3800. Amid the offices of downtown St. Petersburg, a giant old banyan tree shades a lush courtyard. There, in a forest of flavors, sits The Garden. Hearty appetites might consider the Traditional North African Couscous - not merely the granular semolina, but a stew of lamb, carrots, green cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, raisins and chick peas. With artist and writer round tables, bourbon and wine tastings, themed dinners and weekend jazz, the owners have cleared a special place among St. Petersburg's restaurants. ($)

GENGIZ KHAN, 6102 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-6400. This charming Turkish restaurant uses mostly organic ingredients in a menu heavy on grilled meats and fresh salads and spreads. Highlights include a stellar falafel sandwich, stuffed grape leaves, delicious salads and the chicken shish. ($$)

GRECIAN ISLAND RESTAURANT, 223 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2222. This cozy Davis Islands eatery serves mostly standard American fare - sandwiches, burgers and hot plate lunches - with Greek dishes rounding out the menu. Daily specials might include pastitsio, a sort of lasagna made with ground beef and noodles and served with a tomato and cinnamon sauce; or fila, grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice and served with a lemon sauce. ($)

HELLAS, 785 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 943-2400. This spacious, casual restaurant has an attached bakery offering cafe-style seating. Diners are encouraged to stroll into the bakery area to select their dessert, which will be served at their table. Or pay for your dinner and take a seat in the bakery cafe, if you prefer. The menu offers an array of Greek specialties, from saganaki (flaming cheese appetizer) to gyro and souvlaki pita sandwiches. Entrees include moussaka, pastitsio, shish kebab, lamb and a selection of seafood and fish. After eating, stroll the historic Tarpon Springs sponge docks to work off those calories. ($)

LOUIS PAPPAS MARKET CAFE, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-0000 (check the telephone book for other locations). Louis Pappas' Riverside Restaurant may be a Tarpon Springs institution, but the venerable eatery gave birth to a litter of little cafes, and their popularity speaks for itself. Delicious dishes include the Greek-a-dillas, sliced lamb or grilled chicken with blended cheeses and scallions stuffed inside flour tortillas; the Shrimp and Feta Marinara; and the Greek herb-rubbed roasted chicken with a lemon-garlic sauce. Salads, gryos, soups and spreads are all tasty and satisfying. ($)

MASSIMO'S, 31876 U.S. 19 N. (in the Commons at Twin Lakes), Palm Harbor; (727) 784-1881. Chef Massimo Patano's ambitious Mediterranean menu features fresh fish, poultry, pasta and lots of veal. Veal Scaloppine, with crisp artichokes, asparagus and pine nuts, gets an A for its light, lemony butter sauce. Pasta dishes are standouts, too. Homemade strands of pappardelle, lobster and porcini mushrooms are tossed with Parmesan cheese and served in an edible baked-cheese basket. The chef's affinity for dessert shows with Three Cheese Cheesecake Surprise, Chocolate Risotto with macadamia nuts, Chocolate Pate, espresso sorbet and tiramisu. ($$-$$$)

MIRAGE RESTAURANT, 2284 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 724-3604. You'll find Persian-Mediterranean cooking here with an emphasis on kebabs. Beef, lamb and chicken kebabs are richly flavored and served with rice topped with saffron, grilled vegetables and pita bread. Try the refreshing yogurt and cucumber sauce flavored with herbs, the delicious hummus (chickpeas, garlic and lemon juice), or the tasty kibbeh (meatballs made with beef and cracked wheat). There's a daily lunch buffet, plus an expanded buffet for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant really hops on weekends, when a belly dancer performs. ($-$$)

MORAE'S CAFE, 1441 E. Fletcher Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-6018. This cozy, quiet restaurant specializes in shish kebabs and Persian cuisine. Kebab choices include long, juicy strips of marinated chicken and steak filet, seasoned beef, shrimp, lamb and vegetables. Traditional Persian dishes include qormeh sabzia, a combination of red beans, spinach, parsley and steak cubes. You'll also find gyros, sandwiches and salads. ($)

PELAGIA TRATTORIA, Renaissance Tampa Hotel, International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235. This hip restaurant offers a modern twist on Mediterranean cuisine with a menu that includes pizza, pasta, bouillabaisse, veal and steaks. Braised Mussels a la Provencal, sweet mollusks flecked with little bites of Merguez sausage, were large and satisfying. Another great appetizer is Caesar Fondue, baby romaine briefly grilled to give it a wonderful smoky flavor and served with garlic focaccia bread and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pasta dishes include Coco Pappardelle with osso buco ragu, and a potato and sage gnocchi with a fresh butternut sauce. End the meal with a phyllo-encased Golden Apple Tart with fresh rosemary and a luscious caramel sauce. ($$-$$$)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

VIETNAMESE

INDOCHINOIS, 3324 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-3432. If you've never tried Vietnamese cuisine before, here's a place to start, with a brief, uncomplicated menu of mostly successful, mildly spiced dishes. Try such Vietnamese classics as Pho, the hearty meal-in-bowl soup with beef tenderloin and rice noodles, or Bun Thit Nuong, a bowl of barbecue pork and cold noodles dressed with mint leaves and a slightly sweet sauce. The portions are light but so is the hit to your wallet, so be prepared to order multiple starters and entrees to satisfy the big appetites in your party. ($-$$)

RESTAURANT BT, 1633 W. Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1916. No discussion about restaurants in Tampa can exclude B.T. Nguyen-Batley's masterpiece of French-Vietnamese cuisine in Hyde Park Village, where a regal menu marries a sophisticated atmosphere. Nguyen-Batley has created an exotic and undulating landscape in food, each dish energized by earthy ingredients and finished off with an artist's brush. We don't need to recommend any one entree because the entire menu stands out. ($$-$$$)

SAIGON BAY, 2373 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-0854. The former Lemongrass delivers cordial service and a moderately priced menu of Vietnamese family fare, much of it anchored in noodles or rice. Consider a steaming bowl of seafood soup, Pho Do Bien, and if appetite permits, the bananas flambe dessert, served over coconut ice cream. ($)

CUBAN/SPANISH

ARCO IRIS, 3328 Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-1357. This eatery captures the spirit of the small restaurants found in Havana, and although meals aren't served in a living room as they are in Cuba, the warmth of the island's hospitality is there. It is one of the best places for authentic Cuban food in the area. Arco Iris serves very fine fried rice with traditional Spanish dishes such as roast pork and breaded grouper. Great meals can be had here for less than $15. ($)

BROCATO'S, 5021 E. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 248-9977. This family eatery specializes in large sandwiches and Cuban food. Brocato's roast pork, a key ingredient in its Cuban, is so tender that it almost melts in your mouth. Other sandwich offerings include Palomilla steak, roast beef, Italian sub, chicken Parmesan and meat ball. The restaurant also offers a variety of soups and salads, black beans and rice, deviled crabs, chicken and yellow rice dinners, empanadas (meat pies) and guava and apple pastries. Open for breakfast. ($)

CAFE DON JOSE, 12350 N. 56th St., Tampa; (813) 985-2392. Cafe Don Jose has built its reputation on the cuisine of Spain: seafood, pasta, chicken and beef are served in softly lit dining rooms whose decor harkens back to the days of Spanish conquistadores. Waiters here are professional and efficient. Portions are respectable and the ingredients fresh. Must-have entrees include Cazuela de Marisco (seafood casserole), brimming with chunks of lobster, whole shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and fish in a savory catalana sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAPDEVILA'S AT LA TERESITA, 3248 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-9704. Landmark La Teresita has flowered into a lovely restaurant complex, complete with lunch counter and dining room. Capdevila's doesn't pretend to be exclusive, but the waiters wear crisp white shirts and black bow ties. Weekdays, the office lunch crowd feasts on Roast Pork, Russian Trout or the classic Chicken and Yellow Rice. Portions are huge, service is swift and lunch specials are recommended. ($)

CARMINE'S, 1802 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-3834. A quick spot for lunch. Low-priced, no-frills Spanish food piled high on plates. Daily specials lure folks from downtown to this lively, cafelike eatery. A good place to grab some Spanish bean soup or black beans, chicken soup and yellow rice before heading back to the office. ($)

COLUMBIA RESTAURANT, 2117 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-4961 (consult telephone directory for other locations throughout Florida). This is the grand palace of Spanish cuisine. From its flamboyant flamenco dancers to its fiery ceramic exterior, the Columbia is all color. In doubt? Order the paella, a traditional and eye-pleasing Spanish feast of fish, shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels, clams, chicken, pork, sausage, green peppers, onions and tomatoes, all piled onto yellow rice. By day, the Columbia is an atmospheric haven for business lunches; by night, one of Tampa's biggest tourist draws. The Columbia's 1905 Salad alludes to the year this restaurant first opened its doors on Ybor City's Seventh Avenue. ($$)

HUGO'S SPANISH RESTAURANT, 931 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2842. Hugo's lays no claim to gourmet fare, but prices are reasonable and the grub is hearty. This Hyde Park staple touts its 'world's worst Cuban sandwich,' but in truth, competes with the best sandwich makers in Tampa. Italian dishes score more points for low price than for taste. In short, the appeal is price and location. ($)

LA BAMBA, 4815 W. Laurel St., Tampa; (813) 287-2575. This Spanish-American cafeteria-style restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Morning specialties include the La Bamba Croissant (with egg, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage) and omelets. Lunch specials include baked grouper, beef stew, chicken Parmesan, chicken salteado, Spanish meat balls, ropa vieja, Russian trout, chicken cordon bleu and boliche. A variety of soups are offered daily, such as Spanish bean, split pea, cream of broccoli and black bean. ($)

LAS PALMAS CAFE, 19651 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa; (813) 907-1333. Tucked away in the Pebble Creek Collection shopping center, this restaurant serves Spanish-Cuban fare in a family atmosphere. The tiny, 30-seat space features such warm touches as paneling, lower light fixtures and dark green carpeting. Menu items include deviled crab, Merluza a la Rusa (a breaded whitefish filet), chicken and yellow rice and breaded palomilla steak. ($)

LATAM AT THE CENTRO, 1913 N. Nebraska Ave., Tampa; (813) 223-7338. In the Roaring '20s, Tampa tangoed at the Centro Asturiano cantina, paddle fans turning the air. Now, there are steaming plates of Lechon, Filete Salteados and Boliche, produced by a family with old Ybor roots. The menu is a blend of Spanish, Cuban and Italian, with such favorites as Paella, Shrimp al Ajillo and Chicken Parmigiana. Open for lunch only, Monday through Friday. ($)

LINCOLN SPANISH RESTAURANT, 3247 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 354-8335. A West Tampa institution since it opened in 1963, this 'Boliche Boulevard' locale bustles at lunch and dinner. The restaurant specializes in authentic roast pork, ropa vieja (shredded beef), carne con papa (beef stew) and seafood dishes such as zarzuela de mariscos (rice and seafood) and lobster enchilado. ($)

MR. EMPANADA, 4836 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-6232 (check the telephone book for other locations). Mr. Empanada offers tasty turnovers stuffed with combinations of beef, sausage, chicken, seafood and fruit. The beef empanada has juicy ground beef seasoned with onions and green and red peppers. Seafood lovers should try the crab empanada in a light tomato sauce. (The bits of shell add to the authenticity.) The restaurant also offers Cuban sandwiches, Spanish bean soup, deviled crabs and an assortment of salads. ($)

SANGRIA'S, 315 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-0393. Sangria's tapas menu includes about 40 selections and a handful of decadent desserts. These so-called little dishes of Spain are just that, so a party of four needs to keep up a stream of orders if everyone wants to walk away full. This also can mean a pricey evening, as many tapas selections are $9 and $10. Good bets are Ceviche de la Casa, a delicious blend of lime-infused shrimp, scallops and squid tossed with peppers and onions; Mejillones Aioli, mussels in garlic sherry wine and cream; and one of the large paellas, which require 30 minutes to prepare. ($$)

SPAIN RESTAURANT, 513 Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-2831. A good place for hearty Spanish grub without emptying the wallet at lunch or dinner. Consider the lemon grouper or paella. Those with light appetites might want to sit at the bar, sip sangria and munch on more than two dozen hot and cold tapas. ($-$$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

TINATAPA'S, 615 Channelside Drive (in Shoppes at Channelside), Tampa; (813) 514-8462. This colorful, hip eatery specializes in the popular Spanish tradition of tapas. Tapas are essentially finger foods, small servings of Spanish dishes that allow the diner to jump from dish to dish. The restaurant serves more than 30 varieties of hot and cold tapas. Favorites include Pan de Tomato, with diced red tomatoes, Spanish ham, provolone cheese and olives, drizzled with olive oil and served atop crusty bread; and Gambas Fritas, breaded, fried prawns doused with a sweet and spicy dip. Each small plate averages three or four mouthfuls, so two people could easily eat six or more tapas and spend in excess of $60, not counting beverages or desserts. ($$-$$$)

TIO PEPE, 2930 Gulf-To-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082. A Pinellas favorite, Tio Pepe delivers consistently enjoyable Spanish cuisine. The menu includes traditional Paella, but those with other preferences find seafood in delicate cream, such as Gambas Rellenas a la Pepe (large stuffed shrimp in a sauce), along with sassy poultry preparations and hearty beef dishes. Waiters make a first-rate sangria, mixed with sugar, brandy, citrus, cinnamon and choice of wine or champagne, and the bakery turns out a nice variation on pumpernickel. The restaurant can be loud and bustling on busy nights. ($$)

VIZCAYA RESTAURANTE & TAPAS BAR, 10905 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-7400. This Spanish eatery showcases Chef Felix Piedra's creative way with tapas, appetizers that you can mix and match into a meal. He cooks up 20 hot tapas, with choices such as merluza, a Spanish fish cooked with a lobster and seafood sauce; fresh calamari in its black ink; and fresh scallops with imported chorizo. Cold tapas options include Gulf shrimp with avocados and duck liver with green peppercorns. For entrees, try Zarzuela de Mariscos, a bountiful seafood dish with Maine lobster, scallops, clams and shrimp, accented with a rich cream sauce tinged with brandy; or the hearty paella, rich and fragrant with saffron-flavored rice, shrimp, mussels and clams, topped with half a lobster. The wine list is extensive for a small eatery. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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