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In Baked Tomatoes, A Taste Of Bliss

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By JOE YONAN, The Washington Post

Published: September 19, 2007

Of all the things I cooked for my sister's homespun Maine wedding in 2000, one recipe was particularly unassuming: tomatoes with a hefty sprinkling of cumin, baked until they started to shrivel up.

They don't necessarily sound appetizing until you consider all the meat and juice and seeds of half of a large, at-its-peak tomato that reduce to a mere 1/4 -inch disk. With the edges starting to get a bit crisp after up to 12 hours in the oven, they are somewhere between dried tomatoes and tomato jam.

The tomatoes, I figured, would work beautifully on the appetizer table, an array I hoped would tempt guests to pick up a slice of bread, top it with a tomato and, perhaps, a smear of goat cheese, maybe a piece of smoked trout. So I cooked them for days in advance, keeping whole trays of the tomatoes going day and night (literally) in the outdoor wood stove.

One of my favorite things about the technique is the volume reduction. One day you're staring at a pile of tomatoes, and the next you've got a tightly packed jar in the fridge.

I've satisfactorily substituted other spices, from paprika to cinnamon, but I always come back to cumin, which brings the bright tartness of the fruit deliciously down to earth.

Even though the instant-bruschetta idea remains one of the most appealing ways I know to eat these, they are versatile enough to be a late-summer staple, making their way into so many of my dishes this time of year. I pile batches of them tightly into jars, pressing a little to get the heady mixture of olive oil, juice and cumin to rise, then cover and store them in the refrigerator.

Truth be told, though, my most frequent way to deal with them is to do just what I saw so many guests do at my sister's wedding reception. Faced with bread, goat cheese and smoked fish options, they just picked up the tomatoes and popped them directly into their mouths. Pure summertime.

The low heat of the oven turns these tomatoes almost jammy, shriveling them and concentrating their flavor beautifully. The amount of time it takes depends greatly on the size and juiciness of the tomatoes, so for the least fuss, don't mix varieties or sizes.

Other herbs and spices, particularly cinnamon and paprika, can be substituted for the cumin, if desired. Put the tomatoes on bread or crostini for bruschetta, served as part of an antipasto platter with mixed olives, cheese and smoked fish; or toss with hot pasta for an instant sauce.

The tomatoes can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to two weeks.

12-HOUR TOMATOES

8 large tomatoes, stemmed (but not cored) and cut in half vertically

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

8 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground (see note)

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper; do not overlap.

Place the tomatoes, cut side up, on the baking sheet. Season on the cut side with salt and pepper to taste, then drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon cumin on each tomato half. Bake for 8 to 12 hours, or until the tomatoes have collapsed and shriveled to about 1/4 inch thick; they should still be moist inside. Cool completely, then refrigerate in an airtight container. Makes about 3 cups

Note: To toast cumin seeds, place a small skillet over medium heat. Add the seeds and toast, shaking the pan occasionally, for 2 to 4 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and cool completely.

Per 2-tomato serving: 99 calories, 3 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fat, 1 grams saturated fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 89 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber

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