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The Tampa Tribune

Published: September 28, 2007

Updated: 09/26/2007 09:11 pm

SANDWICHES/ SALADS

BARROW'S GOURMET FOODS, 3660 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 870-0950. This friendly, family-owned restaurant stacks up against the competition. In addition to an array of hot and cold sandwiches, the menu features soups and salads. There's also a salad bar with olives, beets, tiny pickled corn, peas, garbanzo and kidney beans, pasta and potato salad, and fresh and dried fruit. Catering is available. ($)

BEARSS SANDWICHES, 14022 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 961-9486. This tiny, bustling deli specializes in piled-high sandwiches, about two dozen combinations, each around $4. Diners get their choice of bread: Cuban, rye, egg bread, wheat, hoagie rolls, pumpernickel and onion rolls. Popular choices include the porkless Cuban, with salami, cheese and ham; the Cordon Bleu sandwich, with a thick, lightly breaded chicken filet; and a Brazil Cariocca, which is a combination of hard salami, ham, American cheese and oregano. ($)

CALIFORNIA CICCIO, 190 37th Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 898-8226. This delightful little haunt may look like a fast food joint, with only a handful of booths and a brisk takeout business. But the product is worth sitting down for, and some offerings are downright addicting. The kitchen plays with ingredients and flavors, blending cuisines of Asia, South America and the Mediterranean. The menu features wraps, pasta, infused stir-frys, pizzas and salads - all at bargain prices. ($)

CARROLLWOOD CAFE & DELI, 11606 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 964-9008. Sandwiches are a mainstay of this cafe's menu, and you'll be tempted to try them all. Start with the Wall Street Reuben, a big bruiser with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on Jewish rye bread. Or go with the Deli Trio, a classic combination of kosher corned beef, New York pastrami and Swiss cheese. Chicken noodle and Boston clam chowder are everyday staples, along with a third soup that changes daily. ($)

DELI NEWS CAFE, 680 Main Street, downtown Dunedin; (727) 735-0505. This popular lunch spot is sparkling clean and awash in colorful cartoon murals inside and out. The menu features a dozen hearty deli and specialty sandwiches, salads, soups and a tempting array of desserts. You'll also find daily lunch specials such as a meatball sub, chicken fajita wrap, Italian sausage or Greek gyros. ($)

EARL OF SANDWICH, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 879-1762. When the Englishman John Montagu died in 1792, he left behind a legacy that included service as postmaster general, secretary of state and first lord of the admiralty. He also was the fourth earl of Sandwich, a dignitary in a long line of English peerage that exists to this day. He was credited with inventing the sandwich, and the fast-casual restaurant bearing his name serves about 20 simple, filling choices, plus salads, side orders and desserts. Nothing fancy here, but then, English food is meant to be eaten, not discussed. ($)

EVOS, 609 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3867 (check the telephone book for other locations). This casual eatery serves healthful burgers, wraps, fries and smoothies. Bite into the vegetarian soft taco and you'll get a flavorful serving of ground soy. Soy also is served up in the All-American Champ, a quarter-pound, charbroiled soy burger. Potato slivers are tossed in hot air, vastly reducing the fat content. Salmon shows up in a sandwich patty served with low-cal dill spread, as well as a wrap stuffed with basmati rice and grilled onions and peppers. ($)

LA CASA DOLCE CAFE, 406 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 259-0002. Quaint and certainly inexpensive, La Casa Dolce Cafe is a magnet for laptop Bohemians. They can be found day and night sitting at indoor or outdoor tables, pattering away at their keyboards while sipping macchiatos or sorbet smoothies. The restaurant makes good sandwiches, and not just any sandwich. The panini rules here, among the better in town. The staff presents an enticing array of cakes and confections each day, and nobody should dismiss the trademark gelato and sorbet. ($)

LA CREPERIA CAFE, 1729 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-9700. This European-style bistro proves you can stuff crepes with more than fruit and cream and turn them into a delicious meal. Some of the best combinations include the Jambalaya with shrimp, sausage, caramelized onions, green peppers, garlic and Tabasco; and the Turkey a la Brie, packed with roasted turkey, creamy Brie and tomatoes. If crepes don't tempt you, try the baguette or panini sandwiches, salads and pasta dishes. More than two dozen crepes are offered for dessert. Or, you can create your own. ($$)

LONNI'S SANDWICHES, ETC., 513 E. Jackson St., Tampa; (813) 223-2333. Lonni's pleases lunch crowds with giant sandwiches on wild-rice bread. Choices include Mango Breeze (brie, avocado, sprouts and chutney), Albuquerque Turkey (with Gouda, turkey and chipotle sauce), Curried Tropical Chicken Salad and others. ($)

MARC & DIDI'S DELI, 201 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 250-6272. Marc and Didi Zudar specialize in the humble and hearty sandwich and their lunch menu combos are belly-busters. We recommend the Turkey Pride, a thin-sliced breast with Thousand Island dressing, ripe tomatoes, bacon and provolone on pumpernickel. Another favorite is the West Coast, made with a creamy chicken salad and slices of fresh avocado, Gouda cheese and bacon. The kitchen cooks up flavorful deep-dish quiches: Lorraine, Chicken Portobello, Spinach-Tomato and Crab Artichoke. Huge salads include a Chef, Greek, Cobb and Garden Veggie - all big enough to split between two people. The Coconut Cream Pie is chock-full of fresh-grated coconut stuffed into a homemade pastry crust. ($)

MEL'S HOT DOGS, 4136 E. Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 985-8000. The hot dog is as much a part of life as breathing air, and Mel's - quite frankly - is king. Mel's dogs are created by Chicago's Vienna Beef Company from kosher-style whole beef cuts and contain no chicken, pork or soy bean. The beef is slowly smoked, so the casing 'pops' when bitten into. Highly recommended is the Mighty Mel Hot Dog, a quarter-pound tuber on a poppy seed bun complemented with piquant relish, mustard and thinly sliced pickles. The basket includes a very good and generous portion of French fries, and wholesome-tasting coleslaw or oven-baked beans. ($)

PANE RUSTICA BAKERY & CAFE, 3225 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 902-8828. This quaint south Tampa eatery continues to bake a reputation as the hottest Bohemian breadsmith around, and it recently added dinner to the mix. Pastas are a specialty, such as the Giant Open Faced Seafood Ravioli. Good choices include Cedar Roasted Salmon, spinach and chicken lasagna, pan-seared Filet Medallions, and stuffed Quail and Sausage. Be sure to check out the flatbread pizzas. ($-$$)

PANERA BREAD, 11878 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa, (813) 866-9333 (check the telephone book for other locations). This European-style eatery offers an array of baked goods, sandwiches, soups and salads. Panera, which means bakery in Italian, offers a dozen specialty breads, including Asiago Cheese, Fiesta, Sun-Dried Tomato, French Strip and Sourdough. Grilled panini sandwiches include the Cuban Pork & Ham, with smoked pork tenderloin, sliced ham, Swiss cheese, chipotle mayonnaise and mustard on Asiago Cheese Focaccia; and the Fontega Chicken, with smoked, pulled white-meat chicken, red onion, mozzarella cheese, tomato, basil and chipotle on Rosemary & Onion Focaccia. Danishes, croissants, muffins, strudels, scones and a variety of flavored bagels are among the fresh-baked items found in the display case. ($)

PINK FLAMINGO CAFE, 304 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2928. Breakfast starts at 7 a.m. on weekdays and includes about a dozen gut-busters. On the rich side is the Crab Cake Benedict, which replaces the traditional Canadian bacon with crab, and comes with home fries, hash browns or grits. Typical lunch specials are a tasty Broccoli and Chicken Alfredo Pasta, made with a buttery sauce that lingers over the florets and angel hair. The Spinach and Artichoke Quesadilla comes with a pair of crisp tortillas stuffed with sauteed spinach leaves, diced 'chokes, aromatic basil, garlic, tomatoes and Parmesan and mozzarella. Sandwich choices include the delicious Grilled Island Club. ($)

RUBEN'S CUBANS, 4941 E. Busch Blvd., Temple Terrace; (813) 989-2178. This friendly neighborhood deli and cafe specializes in sandwiches and hearty Latin fare at reasonable prices. In addition to its namesake, you'll also find roast pork, corned beef, ham and Swiss, roast beef, turkey club, Reuben, pastrami, steak, meatball, B.L.T., tuna, egg and ham salad. Entrees include tasty platters of yellow rice, black beans and plantains with a choice of roast pork, picadillo, palomilla steak or lemon pepper chicken. ($)

SAVVY JACK'S, 11401 N. 56th St. (in the Terrace Oaks Plaza), Temple Terrace; (813) 914-8804. This breakfast and lunch spot specializes in gourmet sandwiches, hot entrees and desserts. Sandwich choices include the Beef Chardonnay and the Virginia Ham Dijon, both topped with sauteed mushrooms; the Turkey Jack, a thin-sliced gobbler covered with melted jack cheese; a garlic-pressed Cuban; and a creamy turkey pecan salad sandwich with a side of cranberry sauce. Catfish comes three ways: pecan breaded and pan fried, blackened or grilled, served with two sides and a hot biscuit. Sides include red bliss potato salad, coleslaw, broccoli medley, cinnamon baked beans, cinnamon spiced apples, Greek potato salad, garlic home fries and a vegetable of the day. Try the apple pecan pie, cheese cake or brownies. ($)

SCHILLER'S DELI, 4327 El Prado Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-6666. This German deli ranks high for simplicity and freshness in its sandwiches. Favorites include the Reuben, with fine quality sauerkraut and corned beef; the Bavarian, with Black Forest ham and Swiss; and the Schiller's U-Boat, with its variety of German cold cuts. ($)

WOODY'S FAMOUS GREEK SALADS AND GOURMET SANDWICHES, 1722 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 254-2806. This south Tampa eatery specializes in deli sandwiches, homemade soups and an array of salads. Sandwiches include the Festivale (turkey breast on a toasted croissant with cranberry sauce, mayo, lettuce and cucumbers) and the Bleu Max (rare roast beef with a blue cheese sauce, garnished with lettuce, tomato, cucumber and sweet onion). In the mood for roughage? Try the the Famous Greek, with lettuce, Greek potato salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, Greek olives, peppers, feta cheese, shrimp, beet, radish and scallion with Greek vinaigrette. ($)

WRIGHT'S GOURMET HOUSE, 1200 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-3838. The place to pick up desserts when you want people to think they're homemade. In addition to concocting the yummiest sweets this side of heaven, this crew whips up one of the best Cuban sandwiches anywhere. Hot entrees, served cafeteria style, add to a slate of sandwiches that are standouts for their fresh ingredients. Not cheap, but worth the investment. ($-$$)

BEEF

BASCOM'S CHOP HOUSE, 3665 Ulmerton Road, Clearwater; (727) 573-3363. This American chop house showcases a variety of aged beef, hand-cut veal, pork and lamb chops, and a small selection of seafood. Try the expertly seared sea scallops, enhanced by baby spinach and grilled red onions. Enjoy a side dish called Gorgonzola Souffle, a cheesy bread pudding. ($$-$$$)

BERN'S STEAK HOUSE, 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2421. While Bern's is foremost a steakhouse, the menu offers some creative alternatives. Seafood selections can be topped with more than a dozen sauces, including curry mango butter, lobster emulsion and truffle jus. A slate of daily specials features fresh fish; a seafood sampler platter with Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams and mussels; and other offerings paired with wines. You'll also find pork chops, rack of lamb, and a vegetable sampler platter. The huge array of aged beef - priced by cut, weight and thickness - still draws moans of ecstasy. ($$$)

CHARLEY'S STEAK HOUSE & MARKET FRESH FISH, 4444 W. Cypress St., Tampa; (813) 353-9706. A lavish, attractive addition to Tampa's big-steaks showdown. The prime and choice steaks are the draw, especially the New York Strip and blue cheese-stuffed filet mignon. ($$$)

DEMPSEY'S STEAK HOUSE, Saddlebrook Resort, 5700 Saddlebrook Way, Wesley Chapel; (813) 907-4574. Beef, beef and more beef make Dempsey's a mouthful. The kitchen's prime cuts include a killer Black Angus Cowboy Steak; 24-ounce Aged Porterhouse; Wisconsin Milk-Fed Veal Chop; Roast Prime Rib of Midwest Beef; and a Center-Cut Pork Chop with roasted garlic and rosemary marinade. Less adventurous eaters can pig out on a lavish salad bar, seafood entrees and other luscious items. ($$$)

E&E STAKEOUT GRILL, 100 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-6399. E&E buys corn-fed, choice-grade Sterling Silver beef from the Platte River area between Nebraska and Colorado. The meat is aged at least 25 days and seasoned with cracked black pepper. Go for the 9-ounce, center-cut filet mignon, seared rare and served with a cloying bearnaise sauce. The 12-ounce New York Strip is the next best option, followed by the 14-ounce Delmonico. Those wanting to bust a buckle can wrestle down the 28-ounce Cowboy Steak, which could feed a small family. ($$-$$$)

FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 4322 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-9463. This attractive, luxurious restaurant is usually packed with diners, but not just for its prime meats and high-end menu. An annually revised list of 100 wines by the glass entices lovers of the grape. The restaurant carries a sophisticated but casual ambience, with its rich wood accents, exhibition kitchen, stylish bar, spacious booths and alabaster chandeliers. The a la carte menu offers a solid lineup of beef, pork, seafood and poultry, and entrees arrive on large, sizzling plates. Thick cuts of USDA corn-fed beef range from an 8-ounce petite filet to a 40-ounce porterhouse, seared over gas broilers and drenched in butter. ($$$)

LEATHERBACKS STEAKHOUSE, 15000 Madeira Way, Madeira Beach; (727) 399-2227. Steak, seafood, ribs and chicken fill the menu, along with pork and pasta dishes. Good starters are Carretta Crab Cakes with horseradish-cayenne aioli and Shroom Bloom's mushrooms stuffed with habanero cream cheese. For dinner, try Max's Mixed Grill, grilled lobster tail, grilled chicken and shrimp brushed with a tangy lime butter; or Fort Matanzas Shrimp stuffed with crab and punched up with a lemony butter sauce. ($$)

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 1700 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 282-1118. Ruth's Chris may be the business traveler's best friend, offering prime quality steaks in dozens of cities. The beef, undeniably exceptional, arrives hissing hot from an 1800-degree broiler, juices sealed within a perfectly charred exterior. To this, the kitchen adds a butter glaze, which spits furiously from the platters. Appetizers and side orders include Asparagus with Hollandaise, Sliced Tomato and Onion Salad, Potatoes Au Gratin, Creamed Spinach and Seared Ahi Tuna. ($$$)

SHULA'S STEAKHOUSE, Wyndham Westshore Hotel, 4860 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 286-4366. This upscale chain boasts a Miami Dolphins theme, including menus on footballs. Fancy steaks, from Kansas City strip to porterhouse, and a monster 32-ounce prime rib await those who like to dine on plainly prepared but delicious top-quality meats. Shula's also serves chicken breast, lobster, salmon, snapper and, of course, dolphin. ($$$)

SILAS DENT'S STEAKHOUSE & BAYSIDE BAR, 5501 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-6961. This beach eatery emphases top-notch steaks and seafood. Food is prepared straightforward, but with fresh, quality ingredients. Plus, there are extras such as homemade bread sprinkled with oatmeal and served with dried tomato cream cheese, a sorbet break between courses and a Parmesan dressing salad tossed tableside. ($-$$)

TEXAS CATTLE COMPANY, 2600 34th Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-3335. The market-style display (featuring hearty steaks and lobster) catches your attention at this cowboy-friendly eatery. A winner is the 18-ounce T-bone teamed with a baked lobster tail. Since the eatery opened in 1985, only a handful of people have the right to say they finished the 6-pound Texas Challenge - eating a 6-pound steak, salad, potato and bread in 75 minutes. If one finishes only half, the charge is $26. A skimpy finish (leaving more than 3 pounds) will cost $40. ($-$$)

WATERCOLOUR STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE, 1201 Gulf Blvd. (Marriott Sand Key), Clearwater Beach; (727) 596-1100. Yes, Virginia, there are some excellent restaurants along the beach, and Watercolour proves our point. The kitchen cooks up a delicious fillet of Chilean Sea Bass, and grills nothing but certified black Angus beef - expensive and worth it. Waterfront views and good service enhance the dining experience. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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