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The Tampa Tribune

Published: April 11, 2008

NEW AMERICAN/FUSION

ASHLEY STREET GRILLE, 200 N. Ashley Drive, downtown Tampa; (813) 226-4400. A riverfront view and nouvelle Floridian cuisine make this a strong contender in the downtown restaurant market. Located in the Sheraton Tampa Riverwalk Hotel, this attractive eatery simmers with culinary talent. The chef's signature appetizer is Lobster Strudel - shiitake mushrooms, boursin cheese and fresh lobster in phyllo dough with truffle bechamel sauce. A popular entree is Seafood St. Jacque - green lip mussels, sea scallops and sauteed shrimp in a bechamel sauce topped with piped potato. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ($$)

CHEAP, 309 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5878. Despite its name, Cheap is richly rewarding. This is the sort of hip spot you'd find in Greenwich Village or Portland, Maine, stopping in for a tapas-style bite and glass of Malbec before heading out to a late movie. This small, cozy place offers a tantalizing sampling of small-bite items prepared and presented with an understated, artistic flair. The menu features two columns - epulae (feast) and crudo (raw fish) - small portions that double as appetizers and entrees. Don't pass up the baked goat cheese drizzled with port wine reduction and a scattering of sliced tomatoes and sweet basil leaves. ($)

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

FETISHES, 6690 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 363-3700. The strip-center architecture redefines plain, but Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies, catering to diners who value intimacy. Favorite appetizers include the hearty cup of Corn and Crab Bisque, chunky with sweet bits of corn and crab; house specialty Maryland Style Crab Cakes, plump and meaty; and Mini Beef Roulettes stuffed with Asiago cheese and prosciutto. Of entrees, we enjoyed the Filet Mignon in a garlicky bechamel, Chicken & Crab Avonaise - chicken, crab, avocado and bearnaise sauce - and Crispy Roast Duckling with orange cumberland sauce. Reservations are a must. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

THE GRAPE, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (on Bay Street at International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 354-9463. This wine bar bistro is part of an Atlanta-based chain that promotes a 10-tier classification guide, customized tasting flights of three or more wines and suggestions for food pairings. The list includes 120 wines of varying quality from around the world. Bites include sandwiches, crab cakes, salads and other light fare. ($)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. Try the sushi. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. Mise en Place is perhaps the most respected affordable restaurant in Tampa. ($$-$$$)

O BISTRO, 6661 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 381-1212. With a leaning toward Mediterranean, this neighborhood place complements classic dishes with lively meals combining fresh herbs and colorful vegetables. The owners are tenacious and apparently tireless, keeping the kitchen going with breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. Lunch includes a tempting selection of soups and salads, wraps and paninis, quiche and quesadillas, melts and grilled sandwiches. Dinner means curry seared tuna sashimi, Tuscan style pot roast, deep dish spinach pie, and the grilled double Lolli Pop pork chop. ($$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. The decadent Krakatoa Lava Cake oozes bittersweet chocolate with every bite. ($$)

PALM COURT AT TRADEWINDS RESORT, 5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-6461, Ext. 2558. This 18-acre meandering hotel has a treasure of a courtside bistro. The menu has a sizable pasta section, including dishes such as tortellini with rock shrimp, asparagus and garlic cream, and seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams. ($$)

PARKSHORE GRILL, 300 Beach Drive N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-9463. The restaurant sports an expensive chophouse look - heavy on polished wood, soft lighting, high-back booths and a regal bar. A large, glass wine cave shows off hundreds of bottles. The menu offers a diverse selection of appetizers, such as chicken chili lettuce wraps, and entrees of note are roasted chicken with bousin cheese, grilled lamb chops and grain mustard, beef Wellington with liver pate, and pan-fried grouper cake in a lemon-caper sauce. ($$$)

THE PEPPER MILL, 1575 S. Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater; (727) 449-2988. A good restaurant should be true to its name, so it stands to reason that The Pepper Mill offers a generous twist of the ground spice at every table. The popular eatery has been catering to the culinary whims of customers for nearly 20 years, doing its best to please the palate as well as the wallet. The restaurant reaches high with its upscale menu but relaxes with a homey atmosphere, and the balance seems to appeal to a throng of customers. The menu ranges from cedar plank Chilean salmon to pork osso buco. ($$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki "Hawaiian Style" Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's "Original" Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

RUSTY'S BISTRO, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611. Chef John Harris brings to the table a palate rich in world cuisines, mixing tastes and textures from Florida, France, the Caribbean, the Southwest and the Pacific Rim. Rusty's also offers a bountiful salad bar crammed to the hilt with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Not to be missed is the chef's trademark corn soup with a dollop of salsa; a Caesar served inside a decadent fried sheet of Parmesan cheese molded into an edible bowl; shredded duck ravioli; sea bass with fennel, lentils and leeks; and the Lolly Pop Pork Chop with balsamic demi-glace ($$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Chef Jeannie Pierola has a knack for peppering Asian, Latin-American and Mediterranean ingredients into a fusion feast she calls One World Cuisine. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. And when the climate is comfortable, enjoy the outdoor courtyard. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. Co-owner David Chapdelaine spent some time working with the Pleasant Peasant chain in Atlanta, and he learned well. Now he has teamed up with his wife, Julie, and chef Nui Thanasioangkuo to bring the experience to Tampa. The result is 220 East, a fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. The Hot Stickers are excellent. Also try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

VERNONA, at the Ritz-Carlton, 1111 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Sarasota; (941) 309-2008. One of Sarasota's prime dining spots can be found at the Ritz-Carlton. Expect the best here: impeccably prepared dishes, dignified service and an ornate dining room overlooking Sarasota Bay. The menu blends Mediterranean fare with fresh food indigenous to Florida's Gulf Coast, particularly seafood. Consider the roasted Maine lobster with asparagus risotto and an aromatic reduction sauce made from oranges, carrots and cumin. Other tantalizing options are a 10-ounce ahi tuna steak or Atlantic salmon, and prawn and scallop brochettes. Pasta, beef, veal, lamb and poultry dishes are highly recommended. ($$$)

THE VIEW AT CK's, top of the Marriott hotel, Tampa International Airport; (813) 878-6500. It takes 75 minutes for the revolving restaurant to swirl 360 degrees - enough time to enjoy dinner and a spectacular view of Tampa and the bay. The menu offers a short list of meats, salads, seafood and sweets, all served in a unique centrifugal setting. Options include the pan-roasted, Shiraz-infused Moulard duck breast, Cajun sea bass, USDA prime steaks, and a large sushi and sashimi menu. ($$-$$$)

Z GRILLE, 269 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 896-3101. Zack and Jennifer Gross hark from Southern California and bring their tastes and techniques to the Z Grille on Central Avenue, a nice addition to downtown's growing restaurant culture. An enticing beer list and shorts-casual atmosphere draws a lazy crowd from off the street, as well as the hungry from a neighboring cigar bar. Consider the Pork Filled Flautas, Blackened Grilled Shrimp Skewers, Towering Tostada, Z Grille Infused Chicken, and Dry Rubbed Ribeye. ($$)

CARIBBEAN

ALFRESCO, Renaissance Vinoy Resort, 501 Fifth Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1000, Ext. 2144. The culinary theme under this attractive gazebo is Floribbean, a mix of Florida and Caribbean styles that blends tropical fruits, piquant relishes, aromatic herbs, translucent sauces and quick, fat-free grilling. Starters worth biting into are the Conch Fritters with curried remoulade sauce, or the Coconut-Fried Shrimp with a tangy citrus mustard sauce. A good bet for light eating under $10 is the Caribbean Chicken Caesar with pineapple relish. The limited entree selection includes slow-roasted Island Spiced Ribs with guava barbecue sauce and grilled Florida Spiny Lobster with charred tomato sauce and toasted cumin seeds. ($$)

COQUINA BLUE GRILL & BAR, 12836 Henderson Blvd. (corner of Gunn Highway), Tampa; (813) 514-1234. The menu at this Citrus Park restaurant is brimming with Caribbean flavors. Start with the tender and flavorful grouper bites or lightly fried Sweet Island Calamari. Good entrees include Perfect Pan Seared Tuna and Fiesta Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya. There's also salads, steaks, pastas, sandwiches, wraps and burgers. Don't pass up the tortilla filled banana cheesecake, a scrumptious concoction tucked inside a warm, crispy tortilla drizzled with caramel. The restaurant features live music most nights, showcasing a variety of bands that crank out everything from rock and R&B to Top 40 and Jimmy Buffett. ($$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

COLOMBIAN

LA PEQUENA COLOMBIA RESTAURANTE, 6312 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 876-8338. This West Tampa eatery has a distinctive Colombian flair. Latin music wafts through the three small dining rooms adorned with native art and crafts. Antojos (appetizers) include tamales (corn pie with meat and vegetables), empanadas (meat pies) and arepas con queso (corn tortillas with cheese). Entradas (entrees) range from Chuleta Colombiana (breaded steak) to Sobrebarriga (steamed brisket with tio sauce) and Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's popular dish of beans, rice, eggs, meat and plantains. Breakfast includes Higado Encebollado (liver and onions), arroz, Huevos Revuelto (scrambled rice and eggs) and Calentado de Frijoles (rice and beans). ($)

LA TIPICA COLOMBIANA, 2310 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 931-9300. This warm and relaxed restaurant and bakery serves typical Colombian dishes and baked goods. Each weekday features a special such as arroz con pollo (chicken and yellow rice) - Colombia's version has an ample amount of peas and carrots with yellow rice and chunks of chicken; tamales, cornmeal patties stuffed with corn, meat and vegetables; and mondongo (tripe). For the ravenous, there's Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's most popular dish, piled high with a slab of palomilla beef steak, fried pork rind, fried egg, white rice, arepa, strips of fried plantain and pinto beans. ($)

FRENCH

CAFE LARGO, 12551 Indian Rocks Road, Largo; (727) 596-6282. Cafe Largo stands out for its inspired kitchen and presentation, plus personal service from a friendly staff. Strong entree choices include veal scallopini, rare beef tenderloin and rack of lamb with three complementary sauces; and veal kidney flambe with cognac and Dijon mustard. Don't leave without trying the cafe's trademark souffles au choix, made with orange liqueur, chocolate, Frangelico and fruit. ($$)

LA COTE BASQUE WINEHOUSE, 3104 S. Beach Blvd., Gulfport; (727) 321-6888. Cozy place to go for traditional country French fare and quiet conversation. From French onion soup to chocolate mousse, the menu focuses on old-style cooking. Duck, scampi, lamb chops and veal are among the entree choices. ($)

LE BOUCHON, 796 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-9777. Casual and unpretentious, this one-room restaurant feels like a neighborhood diner in Provence, where the locals come to digest whatever the chef deems fitting and fresh that day. Recommended are the crepes, country pizzas, Tournedo Poivre Vert and Roasted Duck Breast. Also consider the wine dinners. ($$-$$$)

L'EDEN, 500 N. Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 221-4795. We applaud this little French gem, where quaint dinners unfold on weekends and creative lunches during the week. Owners Gerard and Anne Marie Jamgotchian hail from Marseille, France, and their skills with la cuisine du monde is evident in most every bite. Although steeped in traditional French ingredients and techniques, the menu follows a nouvelle style by eschewing rich and heavy sauces for herbal bases and healthful broths made by reducing rather than thickening. ($)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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