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The Tampa Tribune

Published: April 18, 2008

SEAFOOD

BACKFIN BLUE CAFE, 2913 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; (727) 343-2583. Be prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner. ($)

BONEFISH GRILL, 5901 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg, (727) 521-3434; 3635 Henderson Blvd., Tampa, (813) 876-3535 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh seafood lures diners to this likable grill. Choose the fish - grouper, salmon, sea bass and mahi mahi - and then a topper such as lime-tomato garlic, mango or lemon butter sauce. You'll also find sirloin, jerk pork tenderloin, chicken and other sauteed specialties. ($-$$)

CATCH TWENTY-THREE, 10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center), Westchase; (813) 920-0045. Catch Twenty-Three prepares fresh seafood in contemporary, creative ways. The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast. Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and cooked over pecan wood. We had good luck with the Sun Tan Salmon, Black Grouper, Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna, and Shrimp Scampi Caribbean. ($-$$)

THE CRAB SHACK, 11400 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 576-7813. It's called The Crab Shack, and that's just what diners can expect: a shabby, authentic-looking fisherman's shack. Blue crabs, fish, oysters, spicy Cajun Creole soup and smoked mullet have kept patrons hooked for more than a decade. The menu also boasts about a dozen appetizers, a vast selection of sandwiches, a land lover's section (steak and chicken) and a couple of salads. The colossal Super Sea Food Feast features grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a crab cake, all lightly breaded and fried. The broiled grouper was perfectly cooked and topped with a blue crab and bread crumb stuffing that offered more meat than bread. And the Corvina Style Dinner, a house specialty, features a whole fish, usually in the snapper family, seasoned and deep fried. ($)

CRAZY CONCH CAFE, 1110 Pinellas Bayway, No. 206, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. Louisiana, Mexico, Florida and Texas are among the culinary influences at former Captiva chef Michael Peel's Tierra Verde restaurant. Seafood Gumbo with andouille sausage, Smothered Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Steven's Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Local Red Grouper are spicy choices at this casual cafe overlooking Tampa Bay. Chocolate terrine, apple crisp, lime cheesecake and rum Bundt cake are great desserts. ($$-$$$)

FRENCHY'S ROCKAWAY GRILL & BEACH CLUB, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater Beach; (727) 446-4844. Visitors to Clearwater Beach are familiar with the Frenchy's restaurant empire, where fresh seafood can be found at affordable prices. But Frenchy's Rockaway Grill & Beach Club has one advantage the others don't - outdoor dining on a patio deck smack on the beach. The extensive menu is filled with appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Nightly dinner specials range from steaks and seafood platters to pasta and ribs. Fresh seafood, of course, is a mainstay of the menu. ($)

HURRICANE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-9558. The Hurricane, with its second-floor, sea-view dining room, looks nothing like its former beach shack self. But the famous Fresh Grouper Sandwich is still on the menu, people still complain about the wimpy bun, and most of the food is still under $10. Appetizers and desserts are good. ($)

ISLAND WAY GRILL, 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617. Wall-to-wall patrons jam this Pan-Asian seafood stop. Favorites from chef-partner Tom Pritchard's kitchen include Szechwan Pepper Crusted Tuna, Vietnamese King Crab Rolls and Wok-Seared Scallops. Landlubbers have plenty to choose, too, with a dozen steaks, Javanese Pork Tenderloin, Hawaiian Kona Rack of Lamb and Volcano Island Meatloaf. Save room for a dessert sampler, with ginger Creme Brulee, Warm Molten Lava Chocolate Cake and Key lime pie. ($$-$$$)

KEEGAN'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 1519 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-2477. As the name implies, seafood is the main attraction at this laid-back beach eatery. The eclectic menu features dishes such as Pan-Seared Wahoo over Asian Slaw, Amarillo Char-Broiled Swordfish, and Andouille and Scallop Stuffed Tilapia. Salmon Piccata sauteed with lemon and capers is a tasty choice, as is the Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi served with black bean salsa. You'll also find salads, sandwiches and decadent desserts. ($-$$)

LANDRY'S SEAFOOD HOUSE, 7616 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 289-7773. The seafood palace on the shore of Tampa Bay may remind some of a Disney dining room, so grand is the scale. But the fish, fresh and creatively presented, lives up to the view. There's tuna, flounder, catfish, grouper, red snapper, salmon, shrimp galore, crab, lobster (tail and whole), oysters, plus five pasta dishes and a few chicken and beef choices. Diners select seafood, then sauces and toppings, which include Roasted Red Pepper and more. ($$)

THE LOBSTER POT, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 391-8592. The place to go to get out of your shell and into something else's. Comfortable but cultured: The bowling shirt's OK, but please use your napkin. Lobster selection here is the best around. Go for the African tails - tender and sweet - and you won't be disappointed. Aside from lobster, there's a wide array of fresh fish, prepared in numerous ways. Nightly specials plump a menu that's already fat with choice. Don't pass over the Escargot Eugen. It is one of the finest man has known. ($$)

MANGROVES SEAFOOD GRILLE AND BAR, 208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3302. Readers are forever calling to ask about fresh seafood, and we point them toward Mangroves Seafood Grille and Bar, where luscious catches from the ocean are the marquee event. Consider the Tower of Spicy Tuna Tar-tar with Korean chiles; plantain-crusted Tiger Prawns on a grilled pineapple disc; bamboo steamed Atlantic salmon atop a heavenly coconut-ginger rice cake; and sauteed Chilean sea bass wrapped in purple Peruvian potato sheets. Carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the 16-ounce, premium, dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye drizzled with green peppercorn reduction. ($$-$$$)

MARLIN DARLIN' GRILL, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 584-1700. When you sink a small fortune into decor, offer fresh seafood, hire a crack serving staff and stock the bar with a strong list of beer and wine, you have the recipe for success. This fine catch not far from the Gulf is a favorite among locals, especially for just about anything from the sea. Early birds can enjoy a dozen entrees for $10. ($$-$$$)

MID PENINSULA SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT, 400 49th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 327-8309. You won't find escargot and fancy sauces at this no-frills eatery. The menu is loaded with fish selections, though, including sea bass, snapper and grouper, which can be ordered fried, grilled, scampi, blackened or steamed. Non-seafood eaters will find sirloin burgers, corn dogs and chicken. For dessert, try the red velvet cake. ($-$$)

MITCHELL'S FISH MARKET, 204 West Shore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-3663. Rich wood, nautical lights and images of majestic ships adorn the dining rooms, and visitors can peek through the glass of a cold room to observe seafood being prepped. Mitchell's can be packed to the gills on any given night, and its 80-item menu seems to appeal to the hordes of tourists and mall shoppers who line up for tables. The menu features black grouper, a seafood platter, Atlantic salmon, Maine lobster and other goodies. ($$)

MONSTAH LOBSTAH, 1700 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 837-0800 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh Maine lobster is the ticket at Monstah Lobstah, a rustic little haunt doing a brisk business, mostly takeout. Don't expect fine dining or tables - this place is blue jeans casual and the majority of patrons grab a dinner to go. The menu includes lobster with corn on the cob and potato salad; lobster rolls; and New England chowder. Bring your own beer if you want to eat in. ($-$$)

MYSTIC FISH SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800. Chef Doug Bebell, a Lobster Pot alumnus, is creative with ingredients in dishes such as Lobster Escargot Style, Black & Blue Tuna and Oven Roasted Chilean Sea Bass. The restaurant serves steaks, chicken and lamb as well. ($-$$)

NICK'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 1203 Gulf Road, Tarpon Springs; (727) 937-3444 or (727) 937-0882. Nick's specialty is combination pizzas, seafood (a good bet is the U-Peel-Um Pepper Shrimp), spaghetti and sandwiches. ($)

OYSTERCATCHERS, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 207-6815. Few restaurants capture the spirit of Florida dining quite like Oystercatchers at the Hyatt Regency Westshore. Windows point to the sun's descent over Old Tampa Bay. Inside, cool colors borrowed from nature complete the theme. Fish selections include American Red Snapper, Florida Mahi-Mahi, Norwegian Salmon, New Zealand Orange Roughy, Gulf Coast Black Grouper, Atlantic Swordfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Idaho Rainbow Trout and Louisiana Pompano. ($$)

RED FISH BLUE FISH, 2901 Alternate 19 N., Palm Harbor; (727) 772-7060. Generous portions of fresh seafood lure diners to this colorful, family-friendly spot. The Sea Sampler platter, for instance, is a monster mound of crisp conch fritters, grouper, calamari and spiral-cut fries. Other seafood options include lump crab cakes, raw oysters and clams. You'll also find pizzas (portobello, spinach Alfredo, shrimp scampi and jerk chicken are among the varieties), steaks, baby back ribs and burgers. A large outdoor deck features live music seven nights a week. ($$)

RUSTY BELLIES, 937 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-4047. This family-run, family-friendly seafood restaurant is the best kind of monopoly: they catch the fish, they cook the fish and you get to eat it. Try a steamer pot with a selection from the sophisticated beer list, or order the catch of the day, any way you like it. ($$)

RUSTY PELICAN, 2425 Rocky Point Drive, Tampa; (813) 281-1943. Wading in the shallows of Old Tampa Bay, the Rusty Pelican offers a beautiful view and a menu that's more than skin deep. It's loaded with seafood choices - including a scrumptious Seared Sesame Ahi - but meat lovers will find plenty to keep them busy. ($$)

SEA CRITTERS CAFE, 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-3706. One of the joys of this casual eatery is that you don't have to change out of your swimsuit just because the stomach signals dinner time. Sea Critters offers dock-side (catch some rays), deck-side (under a roof) or inside dining. If you choose indoors, most of the restaurant offers a splendid view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Best bets are Carbone's Scampi Magnifico, the Hail Caesar salad and crab cakes. ($$)

SEA PORCH CAFE AT THE DON CESAR BEACH RESORT & SPA, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881. A natural draw with its outdoor umbrella tables and Florida bistro menu, this cafe offers casual chic dining. Because the restaurant faces the Gulf of Mexico is reason enough to go. But entrees are also spectacular such as cedar roasted salmon with Ruskin spinach salad, served on a plank of wood. Also, a rosemary rotisserie half chicken has a surprising homey touch of a stream of gravy and "fingerling" or skinny roasted potato slices. ($$)

SNAPPER'S, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550. If you crave fresh, creatively prepared seafood, Snapper's is the catch of the day. The restaurant features a tasteful, stylish interior with an open kitchen that scores big points both for quality and quantity - and a penchant for brilliant fruit sauces to complement entrees. Stellar appetizers include Blueberry Tuna served over wilted greens and drizzled with blueberry teriyaki, and Oyster Osceola baked with spinach chorizo, jack cheese and jalapeno. A standout entree is the Wasabi-Crusted Tuna Steak, seared and served blood rare (our call) with a wasabi mashed potato. ($$-$$$)

SPLASH!, 3973 Van Dyke Road, Tampa (off North Dale Mabry Highway in Northgate Plaza); (813) 269-8611. While entree prices at this Northdale eatery don't dip below $12, nor do they empty the wallets of diners looking for a swell date night out. Seafood, particularly in the inventive appetizers, is the main attraction of the charmingly retro menu. Try Crab Martini, served in a very trendy martini glass, accompanied by pearl onions, lemons and olives. Maine lobster shows up several times over, most successfully in the Lobster Thermidor - an empty shell stuffed abundantly with sweet, moist meat that's topped with a smooth, buttery cream sauce. ($$)

THIRSTY MARLIN GRILL & BAR, 1023 Florida Ave., Palm Harbor; (727) 784-3469. The kitchen focuses its talents on seafood, turning out creative renditions of standards - think a generous fillet of salmon topped with caramelized onions cooked atop a real cedar plank - along with its own inventions. Those include Sam's Seafood Strudel, a phyllo pocket stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster and dressed in a Caribbean remoulade sauce. Even simple creations, such as blackened mahi mahi with a ketchup-based Bahamian dipping sauce, bring mouthwatering flavors to the table. The Caribbean Jambalaya, yellow rice with chunks of jerk chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp in a spicy Caribbean sauce, was a taste sensation. ($$)

WHARF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-9469. Window perches along the Intracoastal Waterway and a slate of fresh fish draw diners by land and by sea, some in shorts and flip-flops. The restaurant, best known as the 1910 site of the Bell family's fish processing plant, even offers a "You Hook It: We'll Cook It" entree for anglers. If the fish aren't biting, there's plenty already caught, including shrimp, scallops, clams, mahi-mahi, albacore tuna, crabs, grouper, cracked conch and raw oysters, plus a few chickens and steers that somehow wound up in the net. ($)

BEEF

BASCOM'S CHOP HOUSE, 3665 Ulmerton Road, Clearwater; (727) 573-3363. This American chop house showcases a variety of aged beef, hand-cut veal, pork and lamb chops, and a small selection of seafood. Try the expertly seared sea scallops, enhanced by baby spinach and grilled red onions. Enjoy a side dish called Gorgonzola Souffle, a cheesy bread pudding. ($$-$$$)

BERN'S STEAK HOUSE, 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2421. While Bern's is foremost a steakhouse, the menu offers some creative alternatives. Seafood selections can be topped with more than a dozen sauces, including curry mango butter, lobster emulsion and truffle jus. A slate of daily specials features fresh fish; a seafood sampler platter with Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams and mussels; and other offerings paired with wines. You'll also find pork chops, rack of lamb, and a vegetable sampler platter. The huge array of aged beef - priced by cut, weight and thickness - still draws moans of ecstasy. ($$$)

BOIZAO STEAKHOUSE, 4606 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 286-7100. Vegetarians would be wise to avoid Boizao Steakhouse, a lavish restaurant featuring the churrasco-style cooking of Brazil. It not only offers a pampered, entertaining night of dining, it stocks you up for hibernation. Gaucho waiters wielding heavy skewers of beef, lamb, pork and chicken scurry nonstop, or espeto corridor, among the tables, slicing succulent cuts onto your plate until your belt busts. The restaurant is spacious and richly appointed, with a sophisticated bar off a dining room dominated by an extravagant salad bar. The 14 cuts of meat are cooked on spits over a mesquite fire, then carried out and sliced tableside. Diners control their feast by displaying small cardboard discs, green on one side, red on the other, and the gauchos are quick to respond. ($$)

CHARLEY'S STEAK HOUSE & MARKET FRESH FISH, 4444 W. Cypress St., Tampa; (813) 353-9706. A lavish, attractive addition to Tampa's big-steaks showdown. The prime and choice steaks are the draw, especially the New York Strip and blue cheese-stuffed filet mignon. One of its seven dining rooms is private and has its own entrance. ($$$)

COUNCIL OAK STEAK AND SEAFOOD, Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, 5223 N. Orient Road, Tampa; (813) 627-7628. What is Tampa's best restaurant? No argument should exclude the new Council Oak at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, where a fine meal is less a gamble than a given. The restaurant unfolds like an oasis, and diners can't help but be mesmerized by the posh design and atmosphere, top-shelf service and superlative menu. This is where a couple can drop $200 and feel good about the investment. Beef and seafood are the mainstay here, high-end USDA prime cuts and line-caught Florida fish. The kitchen creates small masterpieces with the rosemary-rubbed Dry Aged Lamb Chops and Free Range Organic Chicken with root vegetables. ($$$)

DEMPSEY'S STEAK HOUSE, Saddlebrook Resort, 5700 Saddlebrook Way, Wesley Chapel; (813) 907-4574. Beef, beef and more beef make Dempsey's a mouthful. The kitchen's prime cuts include a killer Black Angus Cowboy Steak; 24-ounce Aged Porterhouse; Wisconsin Milk-Fed Veal Chop; Roast Prime Rib of Midwest Beef; and a Center-Cut Pork Chop with roasted garlic and rosemary marinade. Less adventurous eaters can pig out on a lavish salad bar, seafood entrees and other luscious items. ($$$)

E&E STAKEOUT GRILL, 100 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-6399. E&E buys corn-fed, choice-grade Sterling Silver beef from the Platte River area between Nebraska and Colorado. The meat is aged at least 25 days and seasoned with cracked black pepper. Go for the 9-ounce, center-cut filet mignon, seared rare and served with a cloying bearnaise sauce. The 12-ounce New York Strip is the next best option, followed by the 14-ounce Delmonico. Those wanting to bust a buckle can wrestle down the 28-ounce Cowboy Steak, which could feed a small family. ($$-$$$)

FLEMING'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 4322 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-9463. This attractive, luxurious restaurant is usually packed with diners, but not just for its prime meats and high-end menu. An annually revised list of 100 wines by the glass entices lovers of the grape. The restaurant carries a sophisticated but casual ambience, with its rich wood accents, exhibition kitchen, stylish bar, spacious booths and alabaster chandeliers. The a la carte menu offers a solid lineup of beef, pork, seafood and poultry, and entrees arrive on large, sizzling plates. Thick cuts of USDA corn-fed beef range from an 8-ounce petite filet to a 40-ounce porterhouse, seared over gas broilers and drenched in butter. ($$$)

GALLAGHER'S STEAK HOUSE, 615 Channelside Drive, Suite 203, Tampa; (813) 229-8000. The restaurant's roots go back 80 years, opening as a speak-easy in New York's theater district in 1927. It set a legitimate table with the end of Prohibition and carved a reputation for fine beef. Gallagher's sets the tone for dining with ornate high ceilings and lavish wood appointments and flooring. Guests can gawk into the two-story cooler, where huge slabs of chilled Midwestern meat on the bone are dry aged behind the glass. The menu is a la carte, the meat - with few exceptions - ideally prepared, the service crack professional, and the atmosphere tastefully subdued. ($$$)

LEATHERBACKS STEAKHOUSE, 15000 Madeira Way, Madeira Beach; (727) 399-2227. Steak, seafood, ribs and chicken fill the menu, along with pork and pasta dishes. Good starters are Carretta Crab Cakes with horseradish-cayenne aioli and Shroom Bloom's mushrooms stuffed with habanero cream cheese. For dinner, try Max's Mixed Grill, grilled lobster tail, grilled chicken and shrimp brushed with a tangy lime butter; or Fort Matanzas Shrimp stuffed with crab and punched up with a lemony butter sauce. ($$)

LOGAN'S ROADHOUSE, 9218 Anderson Road, Tampa; (813) 884-5229. A moderately priced, casual chain restaurant out of Tennessee that offers steaks, shrimp, sandwiches, salads, chicken and spirits. A tender, marinated club steak and from-scratch yeast rolls bonded us to the place. ($$)

MALIO'S PRIME STEAKHOUSE, 400 N. Ashley Drive, Tampa; (813) 223-7746. The old Malio's has reappeared with a posh new look on the bottom floor of Rivergate Tower, the cylindrical "Beer Can" building downtown. Shedding its fraternity steakhouse mold, Malio's now acts slick and sophisticated, armed with top-notch service and a menu steeped in high-end beef. Consider the 16-ounce Ribeye, 18-ounce Prime Rib, or Australian rack of lamb. The wine list includes 300 choices by the bottle. ($$$)

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 1700 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 282-1118. Ruth's Chris may be the business traveler's best friend, offering prime quality steaks in dozens of cities. The beef, undeniably exceptional, arrives hissing hot from an 1800-degree broiler, juices sealed within a perfectly charred exterior. To this, the kitchen adds a butter glaze, which spits furiously from the platters. Appetizers and side orders include Asparagus with Hollandaise, Sliced Tomato and Onion Salad, Potatoes Au Gratin, Creamed Spinach and Seared Ahi Tuna. ($$$)

SHULA'S STEAKHOUSE, Wyndham Westshore Hotel, 4860 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 286-4366. This upscale chain boasts a Miami Dolphins theme, including menus on footballs. Fancy steaks, from Kansas City strip to porterhouse, and a monster 32-ounce prime rib await those who like to dine on plainly prepared but delicious top-quality meats. Shula's also serves chicken breast, lobster, salmon, snapper and, of course, dolphin. ($$$)

SILAS DENT'S STEAKHOUSE & BAYSIDE BAR, 5501 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-6961. This beach eatery emphases top-notch steaks and seafood. Food is prepared straightforward, but with fresh, quality ingredients. Plus, there are extras such as homemade bread sprinkled with oatmeal and served with dried tomato cream cheese, a sorbet break between courses and a Parmesan dressing salad tossed tableside. ($-$$)

TEXAS CATTLE COMPANY, 2600 34th Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 527-3335. The market-style display (featuring hearty steaks and lobster) catches your attention at this cowboy-friendly eatery. A winner is the 18-ounce T-bone teamed with a baked lobster tail. Since the eatery opened in 1985, only a handful of people have the right to say they finished the 6-pound Texas Challenge - eating a 6-pound steak, salad, potato and bread in 75 minutes. If one finishes only half, the charge is $26. A skimpy finish (leaving more than 3 pounds) will cost $40. ($-$$)

WATERCOLOUR STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE, 1201 Gulf Blvd. (Marriott Sand Key), Clearwater Beach; (727) 596-1100. Yes, Virginia, there are some excellent restaurants along the beach, and Watercolour proves our point. The kitchen cooks up a delicious fillet of Chilean Sea Bass, and grills nothing but certified black Angus beef - expensive and worth it. Waterfront views and good service enhance the dining experience. ($$-$$$)

JAPANESE

BONSAI SUSHI, 2826 E. Bearss Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-2755. Sushi chef Jiro-San has mastered the art of presentation with consummate flair, and his best dishes suggest a marriage of the Iron Chef and Julia Child. Rather than rubber stamping his menu, Jiro-San adds an original and often surprising twist to his creations. While the sushi bar offers plenty of elegant selections, don't miss the Salmon Misoyaki with a rich miso sauce, or a sizzling order of Gaz-Bi, grilled short ribs slathered in a Korean-style barbecue sauce. ($$)

CAFE JAPON, International Plaza, 22223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-8619. This sushi bar - reportedly the longest in Tampa - offers inventive cuisine and an array of sakes. The entrees are delicious and beautifully presented, but sushi is the star of the show. Try the Dragon Fire roll, which combines eel and spicy tuna, or an exotic selection like the Tropicana roll, outlined in thin slices of mango with a dusting of walnuts on top. The seafood salad is also excellent. Whatever you order, the main ingredients are high-quality fish, vegetables and rice, so you can indulge without worrying about your waistline. ($$)

CRAZY BUFFET, 2702 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 998-9228. It's a cut above the Asian mega buffets around town, offering all-you-can eat sushi and Japanese soups and salads. Pick your own meats and veggies and watch chefs cook it on the hibachi grill. A traditional hot bar includes dumplings, garlic chicken and beef with broccoli. Evenings bring out a raw and steamed seafood bar with scallops, oysters, shrimp and the like. ($$)

GINZA JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE, 8104 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 806-1551. Ginza offers lots of ways to eat healthful Japanese fare, from hibachi combinations such as steak and calamari to Nabeyaki Udon, a hearty noodle dish. The sushi chef is delightful, deftly preparing colorful rolls with fresh ingredients. ($)

KADO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI BAR, 6821 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 890-8201. Sushi fans can feast on yellowtail, shrimp, octopus, tuna and other treats. The anti-sushi crowd can enjoy cooked specialties at one of a dozen teppanyaki tables. The chefs provide great entertainment as they whirl and twirl their cleavers. Entrees include seasoned chicken, steak, salmon, shrimp and other seafood combinations. ($$)

TOKYO BAY, 5901 Sun Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0770. Tokyo Bay offers fresh, clean and translucent seafood, presented with flair by master sushi chefs behind the bar. Two people can split the enormous Sushi Boat Special Dinner for $30, and sample most of the basics before bursting. A more streamlined Tokyo Bay Bento Box comes with sauteed dumplings, Teriyaki Chicken, California Roll, and Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura. Sushi selections include tuna, salmon, yellowtail, squid, clam, mussel and quail egg. Cooked selections include fresh water eel, baby octopus, jelly fish and grasshopper. Rolled sushi with seaweed and rice is a good bet for anyone new to this cuisine. Each is hand rolled, cut into six or eight pieces, and served with paper-thin ginger root and spicy wasabi. ($)

TOKYO SUSHI CAFE, 195 Second Ave. N. (in BayWalk), St. Petersburg; (727) 823-1912. In an ideal world, a sushi bar would be on every street corner. Instead, we have to seek them out. We're glad we found Tokyo Sushi Cafe at BayWalk, the entertainment-and-retail center in downtown St. Petersburg. The product is fresh, translucent and clean to the nose and tongue. Consider the Salmon Teriyaki, Seafood Combo Tempura or Hamachi Kama, a tasty broiled cheek of yellowtail. ($$)

WATER, 1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8406. Clean, crisp and transparent are apt words to describe Water, the simply appointed sushi restaurant connected to Ciccio & Tony's on south Tampa's Restaurant Row. The offerings are modest in size but gracefully priced, and more important, fresh, zesty and pungent. Signature creations are the homemade purees and aromatic sauces that meld entrees into lavish flavor combinations. Consider the Water Bowls, with the food served atop rice in a bowl; Water Fresh and Crisp, including salads, dips and slaws; and Water Clear Rolls, sushi rolls made of rice paper instead of nori, or seaweed. ($-$$)

YOKO'S JAPANESE RESTAURANT, 3217 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-4311. A south Tampa favorite, Yoko ranks with the best in town. Favorites are Yoko's Special, a combination of tuna, salmon, smelt roe and tempura chips; the Love Roll, including smoked salmon, shrimp and avocado; the ubiquitous California Roll, a mix of crab, avocado, cucumber and smelt roe; and the Arizona, which includes delicious yellow tail, smelt roe and scallion. Great lunch menu. ($$-$$$)

YOKOHAMA JAPANESE RESTAURANT AND SUSHI BAR, 760 W. Lumsden Road, Brandon; (813) 684-3485. This fine restaurant will make you homesick for Japan, even if you've never been there. It offers a wide variety of sushi, including flying fish roe, sea eels, tekka (tuna), unakyu (eel and cucumber), agedashi tofu (bean curd) and hokkigai (cooked clams). Best bet is the Yokohama Lunch Box, which includes sushi, teriyaki chicken, tempura and rice. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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