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FEEDER'S DIGEST

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: August 1, 2008

MEDITERRANEAN/ PERSIAN

ACROPOLIS GREEK TAVERNA, 1833 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 242-4545. Owner Costa Waez has turned a former pizzeria into a Mediterranean experience. Hearty appetites should consider the moussaka, a casserole layered with seasoned ground beef, sliced eggplant, zucchini, potatoes and a rich cream sauce, all topped with tomato sauce. The Acropolis Sampler comes with four spreads: tzatziki, taramasalata (carp roe puree), melitzanosalata (whipped eggplant) and hummus (crushed chickpeas). Fried squid (tentacles and all) is served crisp from the fryer, with a few slices of red pepper adding color. Greek wines and pastries round out the menu. ($-$$)

AL-AQSA RESTAURANT AND GROCERY, 10805 N. 56th St., Temple Terrace; (813) 987-2039. This comfortable Mediterranean deli and cafeteria serves traditional Middle Eastern food with flair. The menu includes foul modammas, cooked fava beans and chick peas; and falafel, a spicy combination of bulgur wheat and garbanzo beans, deep-fried until crisp and brown. They are served with a salad and tahini, a sesame seed paste. Platters feature hummus, a smooth chick pea dip; baba ghanoush, eggplant dip with garlic and olive oil; or fried eggs and potatoes. There are sandwiches galore including schish tawouq, ground beef with peas, grilled on a skewer; tongue; lamb brains; and kafta, ground lamb seasoned with parsley and onion; and several vegetarian selections. ($)

ATHENIAN GARDEN, 2900 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg (in the Coconut Grove shopping center); (727) 822-2000. This neighborhood restaurant's menu features lamb chops, shish kebabs, baked chicken and other Greek specialties. You'll also find broiled, blackened or fried fish; moussaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes and beef); and pastitsio (macaroni and beef). Souvlaki is a hit with tender cubes of lamb, green peppers and onions. The dish is served with hot rice and slices of pita bread. ($-$$)

BYBLOS CAFE, 2832 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977. This South Tampa cafe offers a fine assortment of Mediterranean and Lebanese fare, including labneh, falafel, spicy sausage and stuffed grape leaves. The tender and juicy kebabs are made with filet mignon and the plump lamb chops are loaded with flavor. Consider ordering shawarma: tangy beef or chicken breast strips fragrant with spices such as paprika, cloves and cinnamon. ($-$$)

CAFE ALMA, 260 First Ave. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 502-5002. Owners Dwight and Catherine Watkins teamed up with chef Christian Briner to create a casual cafe specializing in Mediterranean fusion fare. The pungent aroma of freshly made stocks and sauces waft through the dining room, and earthy ingredients hint of the cuisines of Turkey, Greece and Morocco. ($$)

CAFE PONTE, 13505 Icot Blvd., Clearwater (in the Icot Center); (727) 538-5768. Chef Christopher Ponte serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with light Asian and French touches. Entrees of note include ravioli filled with goat cheese and butternut squash, topped with a brown butter sauce; pan-roasted snapper bathed in a tomato-ginger broth; and potato-crusted sea bass. Try to save room for the Petit Four Plate, a sampler platter of the day's desserts. ($$-$$$)

THE GARDEN, 217 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-3800. Amid the offices of downtown St. Petersburg, a giant old banyan tree shades a lush courtyard. There, in a forest of flavors, sits The Garden. Hearty appetites might consider the Traditional North African Couscous - not merely the granular semolina, but a stew of lamb, carrots, green cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, raisins and chick peas. With artist and writer round tables, bourbon and wine tastings, themed dinners and weekend jazz, the owners have cleared a special place among St. Petersburg's restaurants. ($)

GENGIZ KHAN, 6102 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-6400. This charming Turkish restaurant uses mostly organic ingredients in a menu heavy on grilled meats and fresh salads and spreads. Highlights include a stellar falafel sandwich, stuffed grape leaves, delicious salads and the chicken shish. ($$)

GRECIAN ISLAND RESTAURANT, 223 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2222. This cozy Davis Islands eatery serves mostly standard American fare - sandwiches, burgers and hot plate lunches - with Greek dishes rounding out the menu. Daily specials might include pastitsio, a sort of lasagna made with ground beef and noodles and served with a tomato and cinnamon sauce; or fila, grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice and served with a lemon sauce. ($)

GRECKO GRILL, 13331 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 399-5909. This casual eatery offers Greek and Continental fare under one roof. The Tour of Greece platter lets you sample moussaka (layered eggplant, beef and lamb topped with bechamel sauce), pastitsio (a similar casserole with macaroni and tomato sauce) and a stuffed cabbage roll. The catch of the day is fresh fish cooked to your liking: grilled, blackened or fried. The Broiled Combo Extravaganza is a good mixture of grouper, shrimp, scallops and crab cakes. Appetizers are a must: Try the stuffed grape leaves or one of the tasty spreads - hummus, tzatziki (cucumber-garlic), feta and olives or skordalia (potatoes and garlic) - each served with pita triangles. ($$-$$$)

HELLAS, 785 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 943-2400. This spacious, casual restaurant has an attached bakery offering cafe-style seating. Diners are encouraged to stroll into the bakery area to select their dessert, which will be served at their table. Or pay for your dinner and take a seat in the bakery cafe, if you prefer. The menu offers an array of Greek specialties, from saganaki (flaming cheese appetizer) to gyro and souvlaki pita sandwiches. Entrees include moussaka, pastitsio, shish kebab, lamb and a selection of seafood and fish. After eating, stroll the historic Tarpon Springs sponge docks to work off those calories. ($)

LOUIS PAPPAS MARKET CAFE, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-0000 (check the telephone book for other locations). Louis Pappas' Riverside Restaurant may be a Tarpon Springs institution, but the venerable eatery gave birth to a litter of little cafes, and their popularity speaks for itself. Delicious dishes include the Greek-a-dillas, sliced lamb or grilled chicken with blended cheeses and scallions stuffed inside flour tortillas; the Shrimp and Feta Marinara; and the Greek herb-rubbed roasted chicken with a lemon-garlic sauce. Salads, gyros, soups and spreads are all tasty and satisfying. ($)

MASSIMO'S, 31876 U.S. 19 N. (in the Commons at Twin Lakes), Palm Harbor; (727) 784-1881. Chef Massimo Patano's ambitious Mediterranean menu features fresh fish, poultry, pasta and lots of veal. Veal Scaloppine, with crisp artichokes, asparagus and pine nuts, gets an A for its light, lemony butter sauce. Pasta dishes are standouts, too. Homemade strands of pappardelle, lobster and porcini mushrooms are tossed with Parmesan cheese and served in an edible baked-cheese basket. The chef's affinity for dessert shows with Three Cheese Cheesecake Surprise, Chocolate Risotto with macadamia nuts, Chocolate Pate, espresso sorbet and tiramisu. ($$-$$$)

MIRAGE RESTAURANT, 2284 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 724-3604. You'll find Persian-Mediterranean cooking here with an emphasis on kebabs. Beef, lamb and chicken kebabs are richly flavored and served with rice topped with saffron, grilled vegetables and pita bread. Try the refreshing yogurt and cucumber sauce flavored with herbs, the delicious hummus (chickpeas, garlic and lemon juice), or the tasty kibbeh (meatballs made with beef and cracked wheat). There's a daily lunch buffet, plus an expanded buffet for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant really hops on weekends, when a belly dancer performs. ($-$$)

MORAE'S CAFE, 1441 E. Fletcher Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-6018. This cozy, quiet restaurant specializes in shish kebabs and Persian cuisine. Kebab choices include long, juicy strips of marinated chicken and steak filet, seasoned beef, shrimp, lamb and vegetables. Traditional Persian dishes include qormeh sabzia, a combination of red beans, spinach, parsley and steak cubes. You'll also find gyros, sandwiches and salads. ($)

PELAGIA TRATTORIA, Renaissance Tampa Hotel, International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235. This hip restaurant offers a modern twist on Mediterranean cuisine with a menu that includes pizza, pasta, bouillabaisse, veal and steaks. Braised Mussels a la Provencal, sweet mollusks flecked with little bites of Merguez sausage, were large and satisfying. Another great appetizer is Caesar Fondue, baby romaine briefly grilled to give it a wonderful smoky flavor and served with garlic focaccia bread and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pasta dishes include Coco Pappardelle with osso buco ragu, and a potato and sage gnocchi with a fresh butternut sauce. End the meal with a phyllo-encased Golden Apple Tart with fresh rosemary and a luscious caramel sauce. ($$-$$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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