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Island Has More Than Song, Scenery

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By DIANE STONEBACK The Morning Call (Allentown, Pa.)

The Tampa Tribune

Published: August 3, 2008

I am not the hand-clappin', knee-slappin', foot-tappin' sort, but unexpectedly found myself engaging in those behaviors on Prince Edward Island, a destination that sings to the heart and soothes the soul.

The peaceful little island, smallest of all Canada's provinces, is just north of the much better-known and more accessible Nova Scotia and is linked to New Brunswick by the Confederation Bridge. Although it is not all that easy to get there from here - requiring ample driving time or a combination of driving or flying and using car ferries - it is worth every mile of the journey.

Only 140 miles long and from 4 to 40 miles wide, the island, known as PEI, might seem like an easy destination to cover in a week's time. But that's not the case, once you discover there is much more to it than enjoying the stunning scenery; going golfing, kayaking or bicycling; downing lunchtime bowls of mussels and nightly lobster suppers and following the trail of PEI's most famous resident, the fictional red-haired and pig-tailed orphan Anne Shirley - the "Anne" of the classic book "Anne of Green Gables."

Every new view on this island seems more picturesque than the last.

Quiet harbors, filled with fishing boats at anchor, turn golden in the evening sun. Red limestone cliffs and sand are framed by blue water and sky. Even the red dirt roads lead off temptingly through stands of evergreens and beg to be explored.

But what makes PEI even more stellar than the reddish tint of its cliffs, soil and beaches (caused by the iron oxide - rust! - content of its limestone bedrock), is its endearing music tradition known as the ceilidh.

Celtic for "kitchen party" and pronounced "kay-lee," the events feature the island's talented residents who've grown up fiddling, playing guitar and singing about their friends and neighbors and life. It also has become their very special way of inviting visitors into their warm and welcoming culture. Attend one and you'll be hooked.

Follow The 'Anne' Trail

Despite the joy that comes from attending ceilidhs and the island's gentle beauty, its biggest draw still is Anne and following the "Anne" trail to the sights and experiences that author Lucy Maud Montgomery describes. First published in 1908, the book's 100th anniversary is being celebrated all over the island.

No matter whether you make it for Anne's birthday bash this summer or fall, or can't visit for another year or two, reminders of the spunky little orphan and her creator always will be there.

"Anne of Green Gables, The Musical," in its 44th season and Canada's longest running production, is performed at the Confederation Centre of the Arts in Charlottetown. The show does a great job of providing the storyline for anyone who hasn't read the book (not something any PEI visitor should openly admit).

The Green Gables cottage in Prince Edward Island National Park that inspired the setting for Montgomery's most famous novel is a must-visit. Avonlea Village appeals to families with its casts' portrayals of Anne and other characters. Montgomery's birthplace in New London shows off the author's bedroom and her wedding dress.

Nearby is the Anne of Green Gables Museum which was the home of the author's aunt and uncle and the one she called "Silver Bush." Here, author artifacts are tended by her cousins, the Campbells. True Anne devotees can arrange a special wedding package in the parlor where the author was married.

Once you've covered the Anne connections, there's much more to see and do on the island.

Charlottetown's historic district harbors plenty of action and beautiful waterfront views. Stop at the Province House National Historic Site where the country's leaders decided in 1864 to unify and form the Canada as we know it or head for Founders' Hall, where colorful interactive and multimedia displays depict Canada's history in a very different style.

Reward yourself for walking along the waterfront with lunch or dinner at the Culinary Institute of Canada's Lucy Maud where the food is as stunning as the dining room's grand water views.

Shop Peake's Wharf gift shops. Lick loaded cones of PEI's super-premium Cow's ice cream. Pick up top-notch lobster crackers and long-handled seafood picks at the Paderno Cookware factory store. Stop at The Anne Store if you've got a youngster who hankers for an Anne doll, pencil, pen or even a straw hat with bright red pigtails attached to it. Or buy a pale red PEI Dirt Shirt that's dyed with the island's red soil and sold with a packet of dirt. As the shirts' makers say, "There are no white socks, shirts, cars or dogs. The red dirt stains it all."

Shopping done? It's time to get out of town.

Tour lighthouses like the attractive 1853 Panmure Island Lighthouse. Look for gray and harbor seals while aboard a Cruise Manada seal-watching tour from Montague. No seals? You'll still see and learn about mussel farming and what the fishermen endure to feed our desire for steamed shellfish.

There's Golf, Art, Guda And Dunes

Hit the links. Prince Edward Island is a prime Canadian golfing destination. Stop at roadside artist's studios including Island Winds in South Granville where beautiful hand-crafted and hand-tuned wind chimes with stained glass wind catchers are made. Buy rounds of the Cheeselady's Gouda at Island Farmhouse Gouda in Winsloe North. Take to the boardwalk at Greenwich to see the huge parabolic sand dunes that are considered a national treasure.

But whatever you do during the day, save enough energy to attend ceilidhs every night.

The night concerts at the College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada in Summerside are a grand way to experience the piping traditions from the islanders' heritage (70 percent trace their roots to Ireland and Scotland).

Orwell Corner Historic Village keeps alive a turn-of-the-century atmosphere with its old-fashioned general store and post office and horse-drawn wagon rides during the day, but it's also credited with restoring the ceilidh tradition by starting its Wednesday night, lantern-lit music sessions in the community hall.

Just as they say that when you're on PEI, you're never more than 10 miles from the sea, you're also never very far from a ceilidh.

GETTING THERE

Fly: From Newark, N.J., direct to Charlottetown, with a change in Toronto or Montreal; or fly from Newark to Halifax, pick up a rental car and drive (about 2 hours) to the Wood Islands Ferry (www.pei ferry.com, 877-635-7245) for 75 minute cruise to PEI. Airfare is in the $500 range.

Weather: Spring arrives late. At the end of May and early June, the temperature range is 46 to 71 degrees; in summer, temperatures average in the 70s but can go as high as 90 degrees. In autumn, expect 46 to 71 degrees. In winter, the range is 11 to 26 degrees.

Dining: Seafood! Prince Edward Island mussels, Malpeque oysters, lobsters. Lobster suppers can be enjoyed at New Glasgow Lobster Suppers or Fisherman's Wharf in North Rustico. Have lunch or dinner in the Lucy Maud dining room at the Culinary Institute of Canada, where the quality of the food matches the incredible view of Charlottetown's harbor. Reservations a must, June to September, (902) 894-6868.

Where to stay: Campgrounds, cottages, bed and breakfast inns, hotels, resorts. See www.peiplay.com for information.

Special experiences: Ceilidh evening concerts and daytime mini-concerts at The College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada in Summerside, 1-877-BAGPIPE, collegeofpiping.com and casual ceilidhs held in community halls, schools and churches all over the island.

Information: 1-888-PEI-PLAY, www.peiplay.com or www.gentleisland.com; official Anne of Green Gables site for 100th anniversary events is www.anne2008.com or 1-902-566-3346.

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