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'Gold Orange' Takes The Cake

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By JEFF HOUCK

The Tampa Tribune

Published: August 6, 2008

The Kumquat Chronicles continue.

In my July 23 column, I featured a letter from Elaine Bolack of Lutz, who was requesting a kumquat marmalade recipe.

The note has triggered lots of fond memories from readers.

Ida Mae Brown of Tampa was reminded that she had a book titled "Fruit Recipes" printed in 1907, published by Doubleday, Page & Co. The author was Riley M. Fletcher-Berry. (Yes, a fruit book written by someone named Berry.)

Brown was kind enough to send a marmalade recipe as well as write an excerpt longhand from the book. It's a fascinating glimpse into a century-old text. It reads:

"The kumquat (C. Japonic) has greatly come into flavor in America the past few years, but its comparative scarcity and high price have militated against an intimate acquaintance with its peculiar fascination with the general public.

"Kumquat is a Chinese word of poetical significance meaning 'gold orange.' The Japanese equivalent is 'kin kan.' Its combination of oriental spiciness of flavor and fragrance is unique in charm, this whether eaten uncooked or prepared otherwise. The thin skin and suggestion of tartness make it a candidate for honors in fruit salads in its natural form.

"The kumquat is an exceedingly pretty adjunct to fancy dishes of various descriptions or cold drinks. For these purposes it may be served whole or halved or quartered or for table decorations with the leaves not removed. The kumquat may be sliced thin and served in dishes with whipped cream or a meringue or in tall slim glasses with sugar and shaved ice. To add wine to this fruit is rather an insult. For a delightful salad, either as an accessory or they may form the body of the salad with a slight addition of celery, banana, pineapple, cherry, pear or orange; a sprinkle of nuts."

If you haven't attended Pasco County's annual Kumquat Festival, usually put on by the Dade City Chamber of Commerce in January, you're missing a treat. I've included a recipe for Kumquat Cheesecake that won a prize during the 2007 festival.

Chowder Ahead

B. Stepp of Mango would like a recipe for the corn chowder from Mimi's Cafe.

Leftover Requests

Diana Boggs of Tampa still wants to make Ruby Tuesday's croutons.

Elizabeth Walker of Sebring continues her search for a refrigerated pie recipe that uses crushed Brazil nuts for crust, regular meringue and creamy custard filling flavored with vanilla rum.

Kathy Nugent wants a pancake recipe from Pach's Place on Bay to Bay Boulevard in Tampa.

KUMQUAT MARMALADE

1 pound kumquats

1 pint water

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 pound sugar

Slice kumquats in 1/4 -inch slices across the fruit. Add water and lemon juice. Cook until the rind is tender, then add sugar. Cook down to preferred consistency.

KUMQUAT CHEESECAKE

5 8-ounce packages of cream cheese, softened

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup cornstarch

5 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

5 grated, peeled kumquats

1/2 cup pureed kumquats

1/2 cup media crema (canned sour cream, usually found in Latin markets)

Prepare graham cracker crust for 10-inch springform pan. Bake 350 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.

Prepare kumquat peel and kumquat puree. Set aside.

Cream together cream cheese and sugar until light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Add cornstarch, eggs and egg yolks, one at a time, until well incorporated. Add pureed kumquats and peel. Stir in media crema, until just blended. Turn into greased 10-inch springform pan. Place in another pan of hot water and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Cool and unmold. Garnish as desired.

Source: Priscilla V. Baker, 2007 blue ribbon winner, adult division, dessert

Looking for a recipe? Write to Jeff Houck, The Tampa Tribune, P.O. Box 191, Tampa FL 33601; or e-mail jhouck@tampatrib.com. Recipes are not tested. Keyword: Recipes, for more recipes and to see our online archive.

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