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Land AT AMELIA Captaining

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By FRANK SARGEANT

Tribune correspondent

Published: August 8, 2008

AMELIA ISLAND - It is all about water at Amelia Island, to be sure, but it doesn't necessarily require a boat to enjoy. With the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Amelia River on the other, plus tidal creeks, marsh ponds and freshwater bayous dotting the interior, you are rarely more than casting distance from fishable water in this 13-mile-long hideaway north of Jacksonville.

The island has a unique ambiance found in few other Florida locations. It reminds some of the Key West of 30 years back, before it was overrun by visitors. Fernandina Beach, the island's fishing village, still has a large working waterfront with plenty of shrimp boats, tugs and barges, but sprinkled among them are high-end restaurants, colorful bars, boat rentals and antique shops.

I stopped at the Visitor's Bureau, which sits elegantly in an old, brick train station beside the docks, to ask the time, and got a characteristic island answer.

"The clock happens to be right just now because it's noon," the woman told me. "It's right twice a day, but we don't see it when it's right at midnight."

The island sits at Florida's northeast limit. Cross the St. Mary's River and you'll come ashore in Georgia - on Cumberland Island, home to a herd of wild ponies, as well as a great spot to hunt and fish.

Outside the town, most of the island roadways are draped with massive oaks that totally block the noon sun. Unlike many beachfront developments, island builders have left standing every tree possible, resulting in a unique Old South feel.

The fishing is Old South, too.

"I guess our most unusual inshore fishery is the late summer and fall run of big redfish," said Terry LaCoss, who heads the Amelia Angler Tackle Shop on the downtown docks. "When the fish come in to the jetties, it's not unusual for one boat to land several dozen fish over 25 pounds in a morning."

LaCoss said most anglers fish live or cut menhaden on heavy tackle to connect, and most fish from boats.

"But, you can walk out on the jetty or on the beach nearby and have a shot at getting some of these fish, too, if you bring a surf rod to reach out to them," said LaCoss, who can be reached at (904) 321-5090 for details.

For those without access to powerboats, there's still plenty of angling action. The east shore of the island, as well as neighboring Talbot Island State Park, is veined with deep, winding creeks, and all of them welcome trout and redfish, particularly as fall arrives.

Yet, it's not even necessary to visit saltwater to catch saltwater fish. Numerous ponds throughout the island have apparently been flooded with brackish water in years past, and now many hold small tarpon and lots of mullet. There are even a few snook in these ponds, though how they survive the sub-freezing winters remains a mystery. Bass are abundant; LaCoss said a 14.5-pounder was caught from Red Maple Lake, on the Amelia Island Resort golf course, a few years back. (You can fish the lake only before and after golfing hours.)

One of the more unique fishing ventures is a night flounder-gigging trip. With big spotlights, guides locate the fish and anglers gig the tasty "flatties." For information, visit www.floundergigging.com.

One easy way to access the waterways is to rent a kayak, which allows you to search thousands of acres of marsh and oyster-bar backwaters on the east side of the island; www.kayakamelia.com offers rentals, as do others.

Even if you don't fish, kayaking here is a treat, with lots of water birds, raccoons and endless winding creeks to explore. Or you can rent a powerboat; visit www.ameliaislandboatsales.com.

A number of companies also offer Segway scooter tours of nearby Big Talbot and Little Talbot Island state parks. The scooters, equipped with off-road tires, provide easy and interesting access to miles of woodlands, though there's a learning curve in riding them, as they're a bit tippy. For more information, visit www.ecomotiontours.com.

You also might try a horseback ride on the beach; www.kellyranching.com.

There are numerous beachfront and downtown waterfront hotels, with prices varying depending on location and amenities. One of the top-shelf spots is Amelia Island Plantation Resort ( www.aipfl.com), which includes one golf course that runs directly along the beach dunes for part of its length. The resort also has plenty of restaurants, though they might be pricey for some people; less-costly fare is available within Fernandina Beach, about 10 miles away.

Correspondent Frank Sargeant can be reached

at fsargean@tampabay.rr.com.

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