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The Tampa Tribune

Published: August 22, 2008

CUBAN/SPANISH

ARCO IRIS, 3328 Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-1357. This eatery captures the spirit of the small restaurants found in Havana, and although meals aren't served in a living room as they are in Cuba, the warmth of the island's hospitality is there. It is one of the best places for authentic Cuban food in the area. Arco Iris serves very fine fried rice with traditional Spanish dishes such as roast pork and breaded grouper. Great meals can be had here for less than $15. ($)

BROCATO'S, 5021 E. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 248-9977. This family eatery specializes in large sandwiches and Cuban food. Brocato's roast pork, a key ingredient in its Cuban, is so tender that it almost melts in your mouth. Other sandwich offerings include Palomilla steak, roast beef, Italian sub, chicken Parmesan and meat ball. The restaurant also offers a variety of soups and salads, black beans and rice, deviled crabs, chicken and yellow rice dinners, empanadas (meat pies) and guava and apple pastries. Open for breakfast. ($)

CAFE DON JOSE, 12350 N. 56th St., Tampa; (813) 985-2392. Cafe Don Jose has built its reputation on the cuisine of Spain: seafood, pasta, chicken and beef are served in softly lit dining rooms whose decor harkens back to the days of Spanish conquistadores. Waiters here are professional and efficient. Portions are respectable and the ingredients fresh. Must-have entrees include Cazuela de Marisco, a seafood casserole brimming with chunks of lobster, whole shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and fish in a savory catalana sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAPDEVILA'S AT LA TERESITA, 3248 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-9704. Landmark La Teresita has flowered into a lovely restaurant complex, complete with lunch counter and dining room. Capdevila's doesn't pretend to be exclusive, but the waiters wear crisp white shirts and black bow ties. Weekdays, the office lunch crowd feasts on Roast Pork, Russian Trout or the classic Chicken and Yellow Rice. Portions are huge, service is swift and lunch specials are recommended. ($)

CARMINE'S, 1802 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-3834. A quick spot for lunch. Low-priced, no-frills Spanish food piled high on plates. Daily specials lure folks from downtown to this lively, cafelike eatery. A good place to grab some Spanish bean soup or black beans, chicken soup and yellow rice before heading back to the office. ($)

CEVICHE, 10 Beach Drive, St. Petersburg; (727) 209-2302. This ornate tapas bar and restaurant in the historic Ponce de Leon hotel gets high marks for its olive-drenched Spanish atmosphere as well as the depth and quality of its menu. The kitchen offers what must be 100 hot and cold tapas, most everything prepared and presented at a consistently high level. Ceviche - the namesake offering - covers a delicious gamut of raw seafood marinated in citrus juices and adorned with aromatic herbs and spices, but don't pass up the glorious meats, paella and other goodies that make this one of St. Pete's culinary hot spots. ($$)

!COLUMBIA RESTAURANT, 2117 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-4961 (consult telephone directory for other locations throughout Florida). This is the grand palace of Spanish cuisine. From its flamboyant flamenco dancers to its fiery ceramic exterior, the Columbia is all color. In doubt? Order the paella, a traditional and eye-pleasing Spanish feast of fish, shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels, clams, chicken, pork, sausage, green peppers, onions and tomatoes, all piled onto yellow rice. By day, the Columbia is an atmospheric haven for business lunches; by night, one of Tampa's biggest tourist draws. The Columbia's 1905 Salad alludes to the year this restaurant first opened its doors on Ybor City's Seventh Avenue. ($$)

DE SANTO LATIN AMERICAN BISTRO, 128 Third St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-6400. Armed with the culinary advice of former Bern's chef Jeannie Pierola, this beautifully ornate space should quickly become a must-try spot in downtown St. Petersburg. De Santo spent $2.5 million to renovate the historic McNulty fire station on Third Street, and the result is a space of visual splendor that underscores the restaurant's buzzwords: rhythmic, urban, rustic and Latin. Highlights are seafood dishes, a number of colorful appetizers and signature margaritas. ($$$)

HUGO'S SPANISH RESTAURANT, 931 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2842. Hugo's lays no claim to gourmet fare, but prices are reasonable and the grub is hearty. This Hyde Park staple touts its "world's worst Cuban sandwich," but in truth, competes with the best sandwich makers in Tampa. Italian dishes score more points for low price than for taste. In short, the appeal is price and location. ($)

!LA BAMBA, 4815 W. Laurel St., Tampa; (813) 287-2575. This Spanish-American cafeteria-style restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Morning specialties include the La Bamba Croissant (with egg, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage) and omelets. Lunch specials include baked grouper, beef stew, chicken Parmesan, chicken salteado, Spanish meat balls, ropa vieja, Russian trout, chicken cordon bleu and boliche. A variety of soups are offered daily, such as Spanish bean, split pea, cream of broccoli and black bean. ($)

LAS PALMAS CAFE, 19651 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa; (813) 907-1333. Tucked away in the Pebble Creek Collection shopping center, this restaurant serves Spanish-Cuban fare in a family atmosphere. The tiny, 30-seat space features such warm touches as paneling, lower light fixtures and dark green carpeting. Menu items include deviled crab, Merluza a la Rusa (a breaded whitefish filet), chicken and yellow rice and breaded palomilla steak. ($)

LATAM AT THE CENTRO, 1913 N. Nebraska Ave., Tampa; (813) 223-7338. In the Roaring '20s, Tampa tangoed at the Centro Asturiano cantina, paddle fans turning the air. Now, there are steaming plates of Lechon, Filete Salteados and Boliche, produced by a family with old Ybor roots. The menu is a blend of Spanish, Cuban and Italian, with such favorites as Paella, Shrimp al Ajillo and Chicken Parmigiana. Open for lunch only, Monday through Friday. ($)

MR. EMPANADA, 4836 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-6232 (check the telephone book for other locations). Mr. Empanada offers tasty turnovers stuffed with combinations of beef, sausage, chicken, seafood and fruit. The beef empanada has juicy ground beef seasoned with onions and green and red peppers. Seafood lovers should try the crab empanada in a light tomato sauce. (The bits of shell add to the authenticity.) The restaurant also offers Cuban sandwiches, Spanish bean soup, deviled crabs and an assortment of salads. ($)

SPAIN RESTAURANT, 513 Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-2831. A good place to find hearty Spanish grub without emptying the wallet at lunch or dinner. Consider the lemon grouper or paella. Those with light appetites might want to sit at the bar, sip sangria and munch on more than two dozen hot and cold tapas. ($-$$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

TINATAPA'S, 615 Channelside Drive (in Shoppes at Channelside), Tampa; (813) 514-8462. This colorful, hip eatery specializes in the popular Spanish tradition of tapas. Tapas are essentially finger foods, small servings of Spanish dishes that allow the diner to jump from dish to dish. The restaurant serves more than 30 varieties of hot and cold tapas. Favorites include Pan de Tomato, with diced red tomatoes, Spanish ham, provolone cheese and olives, drizzled with olive oil and served atop crusty bread; and Gambas Fritas, breaded, fried prawns doused with a sweet and spicy dip. Each small plate averages three or four mouthfuls, so two people could easily eat six or more tapas and spend in excess of $60, not counting beverages or desserts. ($$-$$$)

TIO PEPE, 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082. A Pinellas favorite, Tio Pepe delivers consistently enjoyable Spanish cuisine. The menu includes traditional Paella, but those with other preferences find seafood in delicate cream, such as Gambas Rellenas a la Pepe (large stuffed shrimp in a sauce), along with sassy poultry preparations and hearty beef dishes. Waiters make a first-rate sangria, mixed with sugar, brandy, citrus, cinnamon and choice of wine or champagne, and the bakery turns out a nice variation on pumpernickel. The restaurant can be loud and bustling on busy nights. ($$)

VIZCAYA, 10905 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-7400. This hidden gem in Carrollwood features 40-plus kinds of tapas, which are appetizer-sized portions. The calamares fritos (fried calamari) came lightly breaded and was near perfection. Richer still was the Merluzita Rellena, a mild white fish stuffed with lobster and topped with a seafood bisque. The combination proved tasty, and the sauce was full-bodied and creamy. The Paella de Mariscos, which features scallops, mussels on the half shell, calamari, shrimp and, as the centerpiece, lobster, was a generous portion enough for two. Vizcaya offers fresh Spanish fare in a charming setting with a talented and friendly chef, a charming dining room, an attentive wait staff and food that shows a remarkable attention to detail. ($$-$$$)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

CONTINENTAL

BEACH BISTRO, 6600 Gulf Drive, Holmes Beach; (941) 778-6444. A continental restaurant barely big enough to be real, the Beach Bistro seats guests just yards from the Gulf of Mexico. Count on personal attention and artful presentation. The Bistro covers all the bases. Seafood is fresh; beef is prime; and poultry is impeccably prepared, especially the mouth-watering Duckling au Poivre. Don't skip dessert. Chocolate Truffle Terrine and Praline Alexandra are the ones to order. ($$$)

BUDAPEST RESTAURANT, 7411 U.S. 19 N., New Port Richey; (727) 848-4437. Two words describe this place: Hungarian heartiness. The Budapest Platter for Two is an edible version of Noah's Ark - two breaded pork chops, two veal cutlets, sausage for two, two fried chicken livers, two breaded mushrooms, two orders of coleslaw and a flood of home-fried potatoes. Reasonable prices. ($)

CAFE BISTRO AT NORDSTROM, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 875-4400. This culinary treasure, hidden away on the second floor of Nordstrom, is an ideal place to take a break from shopping. The open kitchen prepares excellent soups, salads, pizzas, sandwiches and entrees. Try anything with fries, but save room for the white chocolate bread pudding. ($$)

CAFE L'EUROPE, 431 St. Armands Circle, Sarasota; (941) 388-4415. Continental food at monumental prices. Cafe L'Europe is a mainstay of St. Armands Circle indulgence. But, heck, you can watch your friends shop while you eat, and the goose liver pate is one of the best anywhere. The duck salad is something to quack about. Appetizers in general are outstanding. ($$-$$$)

FLY BAR & RESTAURANT, 1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 275-5000. This chichi downtown eatery with the big-city feel and rooftop deck serves small plates and exotic cocktails late into the night, or sandwiches at lunchtime. Sandwiches are more consistent than the ambitious evening fare, which doesn't always live up to its price. But you can't beat the ambience. ($$-$$$)

OPHELIA'S ON THE BAY, 9105 Midnight Pass Road, Siesta Key; (941) 349-2212. Vivaldi and Giuliani guitar concertos waft through the rooms, while candles and fresh flowers adorn the tables. Located at Marker 48 off the Intracoastal, Ophelia's dishes up some of the more delicious entrees in the Sarasota area, such as eggplant basil crepes with spinach. ($$$)

RESTAURANT HAPA, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 749-8400. An outstanding addition to the Bay area's fine-dining scene, this Oldsmar eatery is tucked into an unassuming strip mall. Once inside, elegance and good taste reign supreme, from the opulent decor to the compact menu. Lamb and duck are standouts, but the fish dishes are also excellent. Be sure to save room for the souffle of the day. ($$$)

BARBECUE

ALEX'S SOUTHERN STYLE BAR-B-Q, 5362 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 269-0050. Available from the pit are ribs, pork, beef, chicken and sausage, which Alex's serves alone, in combinations, by the pound and in family portions. Alex's Big Boy Platter, a sampler plate with more than enough meat for two, had at least a half-pound of tender, moist, shredded pork, along with chicken, ribs and sausage. The sausage was the tastiest of the meats and came in crumbly chunks coated with a sweet sauce. The mound of pork was flavorful, especially mixed with Alex's own barbecue sauce, which offers a good balance of tart and sweet. The sauce comes on everything, so tell 'em if you want it on the side. ($)

FIRST CHOICE SOUTHERN BAR-B-QUE, 10113 Adamo Drive (S.R. 60), Brandon; (813) 621-7434. Family recipes give First Choice's tangy sauce and distinctive sides a down-home flavor missing from just about every other barbecue spot except your own back yard. Sandwiches are a good deal for the buck at lunch, but for variety it's tough to beat the combination dinner platter, a choice of two meats and two sides. Fans of no-frills finger-licking will have no trouble keeping pace with the quick tempo set by the staff's rhythmic chopping. But go early for lunch - crowds frequently line up out the door. ($)

FRED FLEMING'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 4351 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-3733 (check the telephone book for other locations). In addition to good barbecue, 15 side dishes, fancy cakes and luscious milk shakes highlight the menu at this place, named for its owner, a consistent winner on the amateur barbecue circuit. Smoked turkey legs, corned beef brisket, ham steak and chicken are among the entrees. There are plenty of sandwich choices, too, including wraps. ($-$$)

HUNGRY HARRY'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 3116 Land O' Lakes Blvd., Land O' Lakes; (813) 949-2025. For lunch or dinner, Harry's stacks on helpings of delectable smoked meats and sides as though every meal was a church picnic. Chopped pork is the star, either on a bun or a platter, served with Texas toast and a choice of two side orders from among baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad. Other available sides are baked potato, green beans and corn on the cob. ($)

JIMBO'S, 4103 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 289-9724. People don't come to dine but to stuff their faces, slop sauce over the meat and wash it down with cold beer. Pork ribs are a staple, sandwiches are enormous, and a half-dozen hush puppies are perfect for sopping up the extra sauce. Surprisingly good burgers. Killer beans. ($)

KOJAK'S HOUSE OF RIBS, 2808 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-3774. A nice little getaway on the east end of Gandy Boulevard. The place for ribs, dirt cheap and casual. Not the place for starched white shirts. Sit on the porch if weather permits. Bayshore Boulevard is a quick jaunt. ($)

LEE ROY SELMON'S, 4302 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 871-3287. It's amusing to consider that this dressy-casual eatery bills its lineup as "comfort food." Yeah, comfort if you have an expandable Sans-A-Belt waistline. The ample portions would please an off-season Warren Sapp, particularly such oversized offerings as the fried green tomatoes appetizer, Smokin' Quesadillas and Lee Roy's Diet Plate (ribs, pulled pork and barbecue chicken). Mama Selmon's meatloaf - well-seasoned, with fresh bits of onions and green peppers - is a winner. You'll find plenty of other traditional Southern comforts, including fried chicken, crayfish-stuffed fried catfish, corn bread pudding and grits awash in bacon and cheese. ($$)

ROBERT'S MEATS, 3316 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 832-3584. The menu here is a meat lover's delight. Sandwiches include the quarter-pound Bobby Burger, Cubans, grilled filet mignon and New York strip. Barbecue dinners (ribs, chicken, beef and pork) come with two choices from a list of side dishes: potato salad, macaroni salad, coleslaw, pasta miguel, barbecue beans and spinach pasta. Robert's has a no-frills dining room, or you can go for takeout and catering. ($)

SANDWICHES/ SALADS

ABELLA'S SANDWICH SHOP, 2141 34th St., Tampa; (813) 247-2231. A large sign next to Abella's grocery store warns drug dealers, muggers, prostitutes and thieves to stay away. Don't let it discourage you. Continue north to Abella's, the sandwich shop, about 200 yards down the road, and you won't be disappointed (unless, of course, you are one of the aforesaid). Although they carry the same name, the two businesses have different owners. Chicken dishes are popular, and no wonder. Large, meaty breasts come covered with a tangy tomato sauce or Cuban-style with thick slices of sauteed sweet onions on top. ($)

CALIFORNIA CICCIO, 190 37th Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 898-8226. This delightful little haunt may look like a fast food joint, with only a handful of booths and a brisk takeout business. But the product is worth sitting down for, and some offerings are downright addicting. The kitchen plays with ingredients and flavors, blending cuisines of Asia, South America and the Mediterranean. The menu features wraps, pasta, infused stir-frys, pizzas and salads - all at bargain prices. ($)

CARROLLWOOD CAFE & DELI, 11606 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 964-9008. Sandwiches are a mainstay of this cafe's menu, and you'll be tempted to try them all. Start with the Wall Street Reuben, a big bruiser with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on Jewish rye bread. Or go with the Deli Trio, a classic combination of kosher corned beef, New York pastrami and Swiss cheese. Chicken noodle and Boston clam chowder are everyday staples, along with a third soup that changes daily. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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