TBO.com - TBO is Tampa Bay Online

Where's The Beef? It's At El Puerto

Tribune photo by KELVIN MA

The quaint El Puerto Restaurant & Grill celebrates meat, but leave room for the fried cheesecake.

ADVERTISEMENT

By MICHELE SAGER | The Tampa Tribune

Published: August 28, 2008

TAMPA - If the American cowboy made the meat and potato entree a staple in this country, gauchos could be credited for igniting a beef frenzy across the world.

The South American wranglers raised cattle and roamed the vast plains in the 19th century. The tall grasslands provided the perfect feed and space for raising tender beef, and the cattle industry in South America boomed.

The gaucho diet consisted almost entirely of meat, and many consider producers such as Argentina to have the best in the world. That influence is still found today in spots such as El Puerto Restaurant & Grill in Ybor City.

El Puerto's menu reads like a carnivore's wish list and a vegetarian's nightmare. Meat not only dominates, but it is also celebrated. The quaint eatery, a couple of blocks off Ybor's main drag, offers a cheery dining room with murals and vibrant colored walls.

The signature dish is parrillada, or mixed grill. The entree features a variety of meats: Argentine sausage, short ribs, skirt steak, chicken breast, pork chop and sweetbread. The dish, which can be ordered for one or two people, appeared to be a popular choice during a recent visit.

Because our table's taste buds preferred to concentrate on one meat at a time, we opted for the El Tipico, an Argentine version of the fajita, and the Baby Churrasco, a grilled skirt steak topped with fried eggs.

The plates overflowed with flavorful beef surrounded by rice and plantains. A pop of color from the peppers and tomatoes completed the presentation.

The powerful flavors of the skirt steak could stand alone, but once the fried egg was sliced, the yolk added a nice amount of moistness.

If beef is not your preference, El Puerto does have a selection of salads, pastas, seafood and chicken.

We tried the tilapia, which had a fresh taste but lacked the powerful flavors of El Puerto's bold beef dishes. On a second trip at lunchtime, we sampled the grilled pork chops and breaded chicken. The chicken had a light breading, adding a tasty crispness without taking away from the chicken's natural juicy flavor. And while the pork chop was also flavorful, the cut was a bad mix of chewy and tough.

Dinners are an excellent value for the amount of food, but lunch is the better deal because you receive nearly the same portion for half the price.

Of course, no matter how much meat diners ingest, they must save room for the fried cheesecake. Chunks of cheesecake are wrapped in corn tortillas and deep-fried, then topped with ice cream, chocolate and raspberry sauces and whipped topping. One bite of flaky tortilla surrounding the smooth cream and you won't be able to turn back. A word of caution, though: One order is enough for four people.

The only downer to our visit was the parking, which we found confusing. We had to move our cars during dinner when our waiter informed us that we had parked in the wrong lot across the street and could be towed.

El Puerto's grassy lot surrounded by cement curbs is hardly suitable parking for my compact vehicle. Street parking is available during the day but is limited in the evening. The city parking garage about two blocks away may be the best bet for a stress-free evening and a great chance to walk off all that meat.

DINING REVIEW

El Puerto Restaurant & Grill

BOTTOM LINE: Traditional South American cuisine in Ybor City

WHERE: 1623 E. Fifth Ave., Tampa

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday, noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: AE/MC/V

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $8 to $22

CALL: (813) 248-8222

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Michele Sager can be reached at (813) 865-1523 or msager@tampatrib.com.

Share this:

Loading Comments...

Email Print

ADVERTISEMENT