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Beauty Options More Than Skin Deep

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Use over-the-counter products that contain alpha hydroxy acids to exfoliate and smooth lines and wrinkles.

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By CLOE CABRERA

ccabrera@tampatrib.com

Published: December 4, 2008

TAMPA - With each passing decade, women - and, yes, men - face challenges in the quest for a radiant complexion. New wrinkles are found in the 40s, postmenopausal dryness is par for the 50s, and then there's the sagging that sets in by the 60s.

"Taking care of your skin is vital at any age," says Rick L. Moore, a dermatologist at the Watson Clinic in Zephyrhills. "The biggest secret to keeping skin looking good is maintaining a healthy skin care regimen and, above all, protecting skin from the sun."

But what's the right regimen for you? Picking the right products and procedures - from the right moisturizer to the latest fillers - can be confusing, not to mention pricey.

"I think the most important thing to remember is that there is no cookbook recipe for all skin problems," says Kenneth Beer, a board certified cosmetic dermatologist and author of "Palm Beach Perfect Skin" (MD Press $14.95). "As we age, we need to see where we are in life and adjust our skin care accordingly."

That's where our decade-by-decade guide comes in. It will get you started with what you need to know to grow older gracefully and take better care of the skin you're in.

•20s - Ah, the good old 20s. At this age, the name of the game should be protection and prevention, Beer says. All those years baking in the sun can start to take a toll. "Damage done during early years is especially significant for aging skin and skin cancers," he says. In addition, new skin problems, such as rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff on the face), can kick in. Women taking oral contraceptives may experience pigment issues. A visit to a dermatologist can help clear up skin issues. Beer suggests using a mild cleanser and wearing a moisturizer every day that contains sunscreen (even if it's cloudy).

•30s - Thirtysomethings can expect pesky little lines to start creeping up around the eyes and mouth. Moore suggests over-the-counter products that contain alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin-A derivative prescription retinoids such as Retin-A to exfoliate and smooth lines and wrinkles. Moisturizers with antioxidants such as green tea and Vitamin C also protect the skin against damage, Moore says. And stick with that daily sun protection.

•40s - Accumulated skin damage is now apparent. Those fine lines are more prominent; the skin is starting to lose elasticity along with its glow. Skin cancers can appear in fair-skinned people and dermatologic visits should become an annual affair, Beer says. Keep exfoliating and look for creams, lotions and serums with lycopene, green tea and peptides, which have been shown to increase collagen production. You may also want to start thinking about a little Botox, Moore says. The cosmetic form of botulism toxin can paralyze muscles in the face now so you won't have the deeper wrinkles later in life, he says. A board certified dermatologist can administer Botox, as well as other fillers such as Restalyn and Juvederm.

•50s/60s - As the skin ages, oil glands lose their function and skin becomes drier, Moore says. Deeper furrows and wrinkles are forming. The collagen and elastic fibers have become ragged and thin. And don't overlook menopausal changes that can cause a variety of skin issues. Chemical peels, laser resurfacing and microdermabrasion can help turn back time. Beers also recommends fillers such as Restalyn, Juvederm and Radiesse to add volume. If all else fails, a facelift may be necessary to remove excess skin and reposition a sagging face, he says.

•70s and beyond - All the issues and treatments discussed above are still useful, but skin wrinkling and sagging is getting so severe that it's difficult to treat effectively. Botox and skin-tightening techniques may not produce the sought-after results because the lines are etched into the skin, and the body isn't producing much collagen anymore. At this stage, aggressive skin procedures may be required, such as laser skin resurfacing and facelifts, which involve major downtime and carry substantial risk. Talk to a board certified cosmetic surgeon for options.

Reporter Cloe Cabrera can be reached at (813) 259-7656.

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