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Yummy House Is Aptly Named

Tribune photo by JIM REED

The menu at Yummy House includes, clockwise from lower left, beef short ribs with asparagus in spicy xo sauce, scallops with Chinese greens, and shrimp with lily bulb and seasoned vegetables.

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By JAMIE PILARCZYK

Published: December 11, 2008

Updated: 12/11/2008 09:59 am

TAMPA - In the closing scene of the holiday movie classic "A Christmas Story," Ralphie and his family sit down to a Christmas dinner in a Chinese restaurant. A roasted duck appears on a platter, head and all.

The family bursts into laughter as the head is chopped off in front of them, and they resume their holiday celebration in a jovial mood.

Walking into Yummy House and seeing roasted duck hanging in the barbecue case, I recalled the scene immediately and knew my evening would be a jovial one as well.

The Chinese restaurant made its debut in an unassuming strip mall in November 2006 and has drawn praises from just about every foodie to step through its glass doors.

Cafeteria in style, the decor leaves little to be desired but once diners fill the tables, their conversations and laughter give warmth to the restaurant. The large tables and generous, family-style portions are great for large parties, girls' night out or double dates, as witnessed the weeknight a friend and I found our way there.

We had heard the salt-and-pepper tofu was a must-try dish, so we started with that, along with the fried egg rolls and seaweed salad. The fried garlic and scallions were just the right mix of salty with the soft tofu, cubed and seared to a light brown.

The fried eggrolls left an unusual aftertaste but were redeemed by the salad. A citrusy vinaigrette imbued a fresh taste to the thinly sliced raw carrots hidden under a bright mound of noodle-like seaweed.

Feeling a little full but highly anticipating the next course, my friend and I were ready when the dishes arrived. We had been warned about the portion sizes being large, but it was our first time and we wanted to try it all.

Yummy House is known for its seafood - lobster, calamari and whole fish options dot the menu - so I chose to go with the sizzling honey pepper scallops. They arrived plump and cooked to a tender pale white with green peppers and onions. To soak up the sauce, which was the real delight of the dish, I added heaping mounds of the roasted duck and raisin fried rice.

Not a fish fan? No problem. There are plenty of other meat options available and veggie ones, too. We suggest the beef with ginger and scallions. A lover of ginger, I couldn't get enough of the thinly sliced, tender sauteed beef.

For the more adventurous, there is shark fin soup, Cantonese chicken feet and bitter melon frog. I couldn't bring myself to order frog - but give me credit, I did try the seaweed.

The friendly wait staff never let our water glasses go empty and offered suggestions and house specialties when we were looking overwhelmed by the menu (where to start?). While we had to wait a bit longer than usual, I attribute that to our extensive order. Plus, the dishes arrived hot and sizzling, prepared fresh, ready for us to dig in.

Yummy House hosted a full crowd the Wednesday night we were there. Skimming the crowd, nearly every table was full with patrons cooking up lively conversations, some with bottles of "bring-your-own" wine. While it took me a while to finally stop in to Yummy House, it looks like the neighborhood has already counted the restaurant as a reliable friend.

DINING REVIEW

Yummy House

BOTTOM LINE: Authentic Chinese barbecue and seafood

WHERE: 2202 W. Waters Ave., Tampa

HOURS: lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Monday; dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Tuesday

CREDIT CARDS: AE/DISC/MC/V

RESERVATIONS: Available but not necessary

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Bring-your-own wine and beer allowed

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Dinner entrees range from $6.95 to $28

CALL: (813) 915-2828

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Jamie Pilarczyk can be reached at (813) 259-7661.

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