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Burrito Joint Is A Filling Choice

By JOHN W. ALLMAN

jallman@tampatrib.com

Published: December 18, 2008

TAMPA - For a coastal community, Tampa has a surprising dearth of seafood markets and fresh fish eateries. But, for whatever reason, Mexican is a whole different story.

Hyde Park alone is home to a plethora of places serving traditional South-of-the-Border eats. You Mexi-can't miss them.

There's Chipotle, the growing chain of fast, fresh gourmet burritos and tacos, using only grain-fed beef, chicken and pork and mostly organic ingredients. A few blocks away is Tijuana Flats Burrito Co., which is less chi-chi than Chipotle and leans a little too heavily on spicy salsas and sauces.

And then there's the grand-pappy, the old-timer, the original Mexican mainstay in Tampa's trendy SoHo neighborhood - Taqueria Cantina & Burrito Joint. Still nestled at the corner of Howard Avenue and Azeele Street, the eatery originally opened in 1995 as Taqueria Quetzalcoatl - offering burritos "as big as your head" - and was recently renovated by SoHo impresario Tommy Ortiz.

If you've never eaten there, you've most certainly seen it. The elaborate stone facade, thick hanging vines and spacious outdoor courtyard beckon like an oasis.

Taqueria serves a dual purpose in Hyde Park: With extended hours on Friday and Saturday nights, it's a mighty attractive pit stop for anyone leaving a nearby pub, and for penny-pinching appetites, prices are reasonable and portions large enough to satisfy.

The menu features a wide variety of traditional and signature dishes covering the gamut from beef or chicken tacos and burritos to marinated pork, fish and buffalo shrimp entrees.

None of that would matter if the food wasn't good. And it is.

On two recent visits, we were pleasantly surprised.

The basic burrito - they come in mini (best for one person), regular (up to 2 people) and super (bring your family, and some friends) - was tasty when ordered with ground beef, black beans, lettuce and cheese. It was better than Tijuana Flats and comparable to Moe's, another fast-and-fresh Tex Mex-style joint in South Tampa.

Our order of chips and guacamole was just OK, only because the chips were too plain and the guac - prepared with carrots and not as thick as we like - was good, but not as good as Chipotle's.

An order of half-nachos was much better with a heaping helping of beef, queso sauce and cheese that complements the chips and compensates for their blandness.

The taco salad with ground beef and rice is a solid recommendation and almost big enough for two meals.

Even better was the signature Old School Buffalo Burrito, which we tried with shrimp. Sufficiently spicy and big enough for two helpings, this one didn't disappoint.

Our favorite, though, was another signature, the Ranchero Pork quesadilla with Mexican slow-cooked pork roast marinated in a chipotle tomato sauce. It's simply delicious, and the presentation - meat wrapped in bite-size wedges of warm tortilla - is perfect for a party.

That said, our main quibble with Taqueria - and this may be a result of trying so many different items in two sittings - is that after a while, everything tastes the same.

The food is good. It's prepared well. It's just that many of the dishes lack a distinguishing flavor to truly wow. The exception, in this case, would be the pork.

But as a destination for couples or groups seeking fast and inexpensive food, Taqueria is tough to beat. It has a large selection of beers, the atmosphere is inviting and the deck is perfect for crisp winter nights.

DINING REVIEW

Taqueria Cantina & Burrito Joint

BOTTOM LINE: Mexican grub made fast, and served late on the weekends

WHERE: 402 S. Howard Ave., Tampa

HOURS: lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 5-10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $6.99 to $9.99

CALL: (813) 259-9982