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Teatro Follows Big City's Tough Act

By RICHARD MULLINS

rmullins@tampatrib.com

Published: December 26, 2008

TAMPA - Years ago, my future boss took me to Ybor's Big City Tavern to interview me for a job at the Tribune. He picked a grand place. High ceilings, tall windows overlooking the action of Seventh Avenue, Sinatra-style music and a spectacular bar that stretched off into the distance with wood and mirrors.

Ever since, I've liked the place. So I lamented when Big City closed down this year. The empty space stood as a stark void in Centro Ybor.

Now, a new restaurant, Teatro, has moved in.

In some ways, little has changed. You could walk through the new Teatro and hardly notice that Big City Tavern ever left. The decor is largely the same, even the diamond-shaped puffy wall treatments and raised center aisle of tables.

Teatro's menu, though, has offerings that in some ways leap beyond anything Big City ever did, but in other ways were all too uneven based on our experience. One dish made us wonder if something just went wrong, while others more than made up the difference.

Overall, chef Philip Zeltsar (formerly executive chef down the street at Bernini for seven years) prepares some terrific selections with a wide range of flavors, from subtle to explosive. And we salute Teatro's efforts to bring the best out of the space, including serving out on the fantastic balcony that overlooks Seventh Avenue.

For an appetizer, we picked the Tempura Portobello slices. I'd like to say they just weren't my thing, because I so wanted every dish to live up to my hopes. But as my companion simply put it: "Yuck." The mushroom slices came heavily battered and deep fried, the size of baseballs. The batter sucks up the oil and it gushes back out when you bite down. Now, I love deep-fried fair food, but even this was a bit too much for me.

Then some redemption: Our other appetizer was sliced, roasted Roma tomatoes with spinach, chevre cheese, basil, crepes and balsamic vinegar - like a hot version of a classic Italian Caprese salad. It's a bit different to serve it warm, but it works.

For one entree, we picked the bay scallops, which come dusted with cumin, a side of black beans, rice, and mango curry butter. Here, it's a bit tough to decide. Was the chef trying to avoid overpowering the delicate flavor of the scallops? After all, too many restaurants simply dunk their scallops in butter and garlic.

Or was this dish just too bland for our taste? My companion kept reaching for the salt shaker. I tend to want overpowering entrees when I'm paying top dollar. But if you seek out subtle flavors, this dish may be your thing.

Then, like whiplash, redemption came again when I ordered the New Zealand stuffed lamb rack. It was simply spectacular. On each lamb rib hung a golf ball-sized chunk of meat, each one split and stuffed with a delicate white cheese before baking.

That flavored the meat from inside, and kept it supple, even when cooked medium. I've had tougher cuts from a famous south Tampa steakhouse whose name starts with the letter "B."

The lamb came with an amazing Rosemary sauce just for dipping, asparagus and mashed potatoes as a side - all done quite expertly.

For dessert, we picked the poached pear and berry crepe, which again seemed too light on the flavor side. But then, poof, another astounding dish, the Banana Crème Brule. It was much thicker than most, and comes in layers of waffle wafers like you'd find in a high-end ice cream shop. I would consider coming back for just wine and that dessert.

Teatro's owners were lucky to get the space at a great deal, Zeltsar said, given the down economy. Personally, I'm thrilled they've adopted the location, and I hope more people come and give it a try.

DINING REVIEW

Teatro on Seventh

BOTTOM LINE: International fusion in a grand location.

WHERE: 1600 E. Eighth Ave., Tampa (in Centro Ybor)

HOURS: lunch: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner: 5-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and Sunday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: AE/DISC/MC/V

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Dinner entrees: $18-$27; lunch: $7-$13

CALL: (813) 248-9400