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The Tampa Tribune

Published: February 1, 2008

Updated: 01/30/2008 08:22 pm

SEAFOOD

BACKFIN BLUE CAFE, 2913 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; (727) 343-2583. Be prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner. ($)

CATCH TWENTY-THREE, 10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center), Westchase; (813) 920-0045. Catch Twenty-Three prepares fresh seafood in contemporary, creative ways. The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast. Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and cooked over pecan wood. We had good luck with the Sun Tan Salmon, Black Grouper, Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna, and Shrimp Scampi Caribbean. ($-$$)

THE CRAB SHACK, 11400 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 576-7813. It's called The Crab Shack, and that's just what diners can expect: a shabby, authentic-looking fisherman's shack. Blue crabs, fish, oysters, spicy Cajun Creole soup and smoked mullet have kept patrons hooked for more than a decade. The menu also boasts about a dozen appetizers, a vast selection of sandwiches, a land lover's section (steak and chicken) and a couple of salads. The colossal Super Sea Food Feast features grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a crab cake, all lightly breaded and fried. The broiled grouper was perfectly cooked and topped with a blue crab and bread crumb stuffing that offered more meat than bread. And the Corvina Style Dinner, a house specialty, features a whole fish, usually in the snapper family, seasoned and deep fried. ($)

CRAZY CONCH CAFE, 1110 Pinellas Bayway, No. 206, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. Louisiana, Mexico, Florida and Texas are among the culinary influences at former Captiva chef Michael Peel's Tierra Verde restaurant. Seafood Gumbo with andouille sausage, Smothered Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Steven's Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Local Red Grouper are spicy choices at this casual cafe overlooking Tampa Bay. Chocolate terrine, apple crisp, lime cheesecake and rum Bundt cake are great desserts. ($$-$$$)

FRENCHY'S ROCKAWAY GRILL & BEACH CLUB, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater Beach; (727) 446-4844. Visitors to Clearwater Beach are familiar with the Frenchy's restaurant empire, where fresh seafood can be found at affordable prices. But Frenchy's Rockaway Grill & Beach Club has one advantage the others don't - outdoor dining on a patio deck smack on the beach. The extensive menu is filled with appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Nightly dinner specials range from steaks and seafood platters to pasta and ribs. Fresh seafood, of course, is a mainstay of the menu. ($)

HURRICANE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-9558. The Hurricane, with its second-floor, sea-view dining room, looks nothing like its former beach shack self. But the famous Fresh Grouper Sandwich is still on the menu, people still complain about the wimpy bun, and most of the food is still under $10. ($)

ISLAND WAY GRILL, 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617. Wall-to-wall patrons jam this Pan-Asian seafood stop. Favorites from chef-partner Tom Pritchard's kitchen include Szechwan Pepper Crusted Tuna, Vietnamese King Crab Rolls and Wok-Seared Scallops. Landlubbers have plenty to choose, too, with a dozen steaks, Javanese Pork Tenderloin, Hawaiian Kona Rack of Lamb and Volcano Island Meatloaf. Save room for a dessert sampler, with ginger Creme Brulee, Warm Molten Lava Chocolate Cake and Key lime pie. ($$-$$$)

KEEGAN'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 1519 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-2477. As the name implies, seafood is the main attraction at this laid-back beach eatery. The eclectic menu features dishes such as Pan-Seared Wahoo over Asian Slaw, Amarillo Char-Broiled Swordfish, and Andouille and Scallop Stuffed Tilapia. Salmon Piccata sauteed with lemon and capers is a tasty choice, as is the Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi served with black bean salsa. You'll also find salads, sandwiches and decadent desserts. ($-$$)

THE LOBSTER POT, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 391-8592. The place to go to get out of your shell and into something else's. Comfortable but cultured: The bowling shirt's OK, but please use your napkin. Lobster selection here is the best around. Go for the African tails - tender and sweet - and you won't be disappointed. Aside from lobster, there's a wide array of fresh fish, prepared in numerous ways. Nightly specials plump a menu that's already fat with choice. Don't pass over the Escargot Eugen. It is one of the finest man has known. ($$)

MANGROVES SEAFOOD GRILLE AND BAR, 208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3302. Readers are forever calling to ask about fresh seafood, and we point them toward Mangroves Seafood Grille and Bar, where luscious catches from the ocean are the marquee event. Consider the Tower of Spicy Tuna Tar-tar with Korean chiles; plantain-crusted Tiger Prawns on a grilled pineapple disc; bamboo steamed Atlantic salmon atop a heavenly coconut-ginger rice cake; and sauteed Chilean sea bass wrapped in purple Peruvian potato sheets. Carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the 16-ounce, premium, dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye drizzled with green peppercorn reduction. ($$-$$$)

MARLIN DARLIN' GRILL, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 584-1700. When you sink a small fortune into decor, offer fresh seafood, hire a crack serving staff and stock the bar with a strong list of beer and wine, you have the recipe for success. This fine catch not far from the Gulf is a favorite among locals, especially for just about anything from the sea. Early birds can enjoy a dozen entrees for $10. ($$-$$$)

MID PENINSULA SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT, 400 49th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 327-8309. You won't find escargot and fancy sauces at this no-frills eatery. The menu is loaded with fish selections, though, including sea bass, snapper and grouper, which can be ordered fried, grilled, scampi, blackened or steamed. Non-seafood eaters will find sirloin burgers, corn dogs and chicken. For dessert, try the red velvet cake. ($-$$)

MITCHELL'S FISH MARKET, 204 West Shore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-3663. Rich wood, nautical lights and images of majestic ships adorn the dining rooms, and visitors can peek through the glass of a cold room to observe seafood being prepped. Mitchell's can be packed to the gills on any given night, and its 80-item menu seems to appeal to the hordes of tourists and mall shoppers who line up for tables. The menu features black grouper, a seafood platter, Atlantic salmon, Maine lobster and other goodies. ($$)

MONSTAH LOBSTAH, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-0800 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh Maine lobster is the ticket at Monstah Lobstah, a rustic little haunt doing a brisk business, mostly takeout. Don't expect fine dining or tables - this place is blue jeans casual and the majority of patrons grab a dinner to go. The menu includes lobster with corn on the cob and potato salad; lobster rolls; and New England chowder. Bring your own beer if you want to eat in. ($-$$)

MYSTIC FISH SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800. Chef Doug Bebell, a Lobster Pot alumnus, is creative with ingredients in dishes such as Lobster Escargot Style, Black & Blue Tuna and Oven Roasted Chilean Sea Bass. The restaurant serves steaks, chicken and lamb as well. ($-$$)

NICK'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 1203 Gulf Road, Tarpon Springs; (727) 937-3444 or (727) 937-0882. Nick's specialty is combination pizzas, seafood (a good bet is the U-Peel-Um Pepper Shrimp), spaghetti and sandwiches. ($)

OYSTERCATCHERS, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 207-6815. Few restaurants capture the spirit of Florida dining quite like Oystercatchers at the Hyatt Regency Westshore. Windows point to the sun's descent over Old Tampa Bay. Inside, cool colors borrowed from nature complete the theme. Fish selections include American Red Snapper, Florida Mahi-Mahi, Norwegian Salmon, New Zealand Orange Roughy, Gulf Coast Black Grouper, Atlantic Swordfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Idaho Rainbow Trout and Louisiana Pompano. ($$)

RUSTY BELLIES, 937 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-4047. This family-run, family-friendly seafood restaurant is the best kind of monopoly: they catch the fish, they cook the fish and you get to eat it. Try a steamer pot with a selection from the sophisticated beer list, or order the catch of the day, any way you like it. ($$)

RUSTY PELICAN, 2425 Rocky Point Drive, Tampa; (813) 281-1943. Wading in the shallows of Old Tampa Bay, the Rusty Pelican offers a beautiful view and a menu that's more than skin deep. It's loaded with seafood choices - including a scrumptious Seared Sesame Ahi - but meat lovers will find plenty to keep them busy. ($$)

THE SANDBAR RESTAURANT, 100 Spring Ave., Anna Maria (on Anna Maria Island); (941) 778-0444. Perched directly on the Gulf, the Sandbar offers both inside and deck dining, with separate menus for both. You can easily make a meal of the appetizers, which include oysters Rockefeller, fried calamari, conch fritters and smoked fish dip. Sandwiches include fried grouper and tuna and salmon filets. Dinner entrees focus on seafood, steak and chicken. ($$)

SEA CRITTERS CAFE, 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-3706. One of the joys of this casual eatery is that you don't have to change out of your swimsuit just because the stomach signals dinner time. Sea Critters offers dock-side (catch some rays), deck-side (under a roof) or inside dining. If you choose indoors, most of the restaurant offers a splendid view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Best bets are Carbone's Scampi Magnifico, the Hail Caesar salad and crab cakes. ($$)

SEA PORCH CAFE AT THE DON CESAR BEACH RESORT & SPA, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881. A natural draw with its outdoor umbrella tables and Florida bistro menu, this cafe offers casual chic dining. Because the restaurant faces the Gulf of Mexico is reason enough to go. But entrees are also spectacular such as cedar roasted salmon with Ruskin spinach salad, served on a plank of wood. Also, a rosemary rotisserie half chicken has a surprising homey touch of a stream of gravy and "fingerling" or skinny roasted potato slices. ($$)

SNAPPER'S, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550. If you crave fresh, creatively prepared seafood, Snapper's is the catch of the day. The restaurant features a tasteful, stylish interior with an open kitchen that scores big points both for quality and quantity - and a penchant for brilliant fruit sauces to complement entrees. Stellar appetizers include Blueberry Tuna served over wilted greens and drizzled with blueberry teriyaki, and Oyster Osceola baked with spinach chorizo, jack cheese and jalapeno. A standout entree is the Wasabi-Crusted Tuna Steak, seared and served blood rare (our call) with a wasabi mashed potato. ($$-$$$)

SPLASH!, 3973 Van Dyke Road, Tampa (off North Dale Mabry Highway in Northgate Plaza); (813) 269-8611. While entree prices at this Northdale eatery don't dip below $12, nor do they empty the wallets of diners looking for a swell date night out. Seafood, particularly in the inventive appetizers, is the main attraction of the charmingly retro menu. Try Crab Martini, served in a very trendy martini glass, accompanied by pearl onions, lemons and olives. Maine lobster shows up several times over, most successfully in the Lobster Thermidor - an empty shell stuffed abundantly with sweet, moist meat that's topped with a smooth, buttery cream sauce. If trying the fresh catch, go for the version that's oak-grilled and sitting atop a lobster and cognac sauce. ($$)

THIRSTY MARLIN GRILL & BAR, 1023 Florida Ave., Palm Harbor; (727) 784-3469. The kitchen focuses its talents on seafood, turning out creative renditions of standards - think a generous fillet of salmon topped with caramelized onions cooked atop a real cedar plank - along with its own inventions. Those include Sam's Seafood Strudel, a phyllo pocket stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster and dressed in a Caribbean remoulade sauce. Even simple creations, such as blackened mahi mahi with a ketchup-based Bahamian dipping sauce, bring mouthwatering flavors to the table. The Caribbean Jambalaya, yellow rice with chunks of jerk chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp in a spicy Caribbean sauce, was a taste sensation. ($$)

WHARF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-9469. Window perches along the Intracoastal Waterway and a slate of fresh fish draw diners by land and by sea, some in shorts and flip-flops. The restaurant, best known as the 1910 site of the Bell family's fish processing plant, even offers a "You Hook It: We'll Cook It" entree for anglers. If the fish aren't biting, there's plenty already caught, including shrimp, scallops, clams, mahi-mahi, albacore tuna, crabs, grouper, cracked conch and raw oysters, plus a few chickens and steers that somehow wound up in the net. ($)

BARBECUE

ALEX'S SOUTHERN STYLE BAR-B-Q, 5362 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 269-0050. Available from the pit are ribs, pork, beef, chicken and sausage, which Alex's serves alone, in combinations, by the pound and in family portions. Alex's Big Boy Platter, a sampler plate with more than enough meat for two, had at least a half-pound of tender, moist, shredded pork, along with chicken, ribs and sausage. The sausage was the tastiest of the meats and came in crumbly chunks coated with a sweet sauce. The mound of pork was flavorful, especially mixed with Alex's own barbecue sauce, which offers a good balance of tart and sweet. The sauce comes on everything, so tell 'em if you want it on the side. ($)

FIRST CHOICE SOUTHERN BAR-B-QUE, 10113 Adamo Drive (S.R. 60), Brandon; (813) 621-7434. Family recipes give First Choice's tangy sauce and distinctive sides a down-home flavor missing from just about every other barbecue spot except your own back yard. Sandwiches are a good deal for the buck at lunch, but for variety it's tough to beat the combination dinner platter, a choice of two meats and two sides. Fans of no-frills finger-licking will have no trouble keeping pace with the quick tempo set by the staff's rhythmic chopping. But go early for lunch - crowds frequently line up out the door. ($)

FRED FLEMING'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 4351 Fourth Street N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-3733 (check the telephone book for other locations). In addition to good barbecue, 15 side dishes, fancy cakes and luscious milk shakes highlight the menu at this place, named for its owner, a consistent winner on the amateur barbecue circuit. Smoked turkey legs, corned beef brisket, ham steak and chicken are among the entrees. There are plenty of sandwich choices, too, including wraps. ($-$$)

HUNGRY HARRY'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE, 3116 Land O' Lakes Blvd., Land O' Lakes; (813) 949-2025. For lunch or dinner, Harry's stacks on helpings of delectable smoked meats and sides as though every meal was a church picnic. Chopped pork is the star, either on a bun or a platter, served with Texas toast and a choice of two side orders from among baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad. Other available sides are baked potato, green beans and corn on the cob. ($)

JIMBO'S, 4103 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 289-9724. People don't come to dine but to stuff their faces, slop sauce over the meat and wash it down with cold beer. Pork ribs are a staple, sandwiches are enormous, and a half-dozen hush puppies are perfect for sopping up the extra sauce. Surprisingly good burgers. Killer beans. ($)

KOJAK'S HOUSE OF RIBS, 2808 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 837-3774. A nice little getaway on the east end of Gandy Boulevard. The place for ribs, dirt cheap and casual. Not the place for starched white shirts. Sit on the porch if weather permits. Bayshore Boulevard is a quick jaunt. ($)

LEE ROY SELMON'S, 4302 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 871-3287. It's amusing to consider that this dressy-casual eatery bills its lineup as "comfort food." Yeah, comfort if you have an expandable Sans-A-Belt waistline. The ample portions would please an off-season Warren Sapp, particularly such oversized offerings as the fried green tomatoes appetizer, Smokin' Quesadillas and Lee Roy's Diet Plate (ribs, pulled pork and barbecue chicken). Mama Selmon's meatloaf - well-seasoned, with fresh bits of onions and green peppers - is a winner. You'll find plenty of other traditional Southern comforts, including fried chicken, crayfish-stuffed fried catfish, corn bread pudding and grits awash in bacon and cheese. ($$)

ROBERT'S MEATS, 3316 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 832-3584. The menu here is a meat lover's delight. Sandwiches include the quarter-pound Bobby Burger, Cubans, grilled filet mignon and New York strip. Barbecue dinners (ribs, chicken, beef and pork) come with two choices from a list of side dishes: potato salad, macaroni salad, coleslaw, pasta miguel, barbecue beans and spinach pasta. Robert's has a no-frills dining room, or you can go for takeout and catering. ($)

SHANE'S RIB SHACK, 2081 Collier Parkway, Land O' Lakes; (813) 949-6790 (check the telephone book for other locations). Grab a bunch of paper towels from the roll on each table and dig into some messy platters at this franchise barbecue joint. From pulled-pork sandwiches to ribs to surprisingly good chicken wings, Shane's offers down-and-dirty barbecue in a squeaky-clean setting. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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