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The Tampa Tribune

Published: February 8, 2008

Updated: 02/06/2008 10:11 pm

ITALIAN

ARMANI'S, Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa; (813) 207-6800. One of the finest restaurants on Florida's west coast. Overlooking Old Tampa Bay and Tampa International Airport, Armani's offers twin views of sunset and takeoff, plus crack professional waiters and fancy linens. Along with delectable pastas and veal, Armani's is a reliable source for fresh seafood. Service is stellar and the food isn't far behind. It's easy to go broke here, but not necessary. For an evening of frills, plan on $130 for two. ($$$)

BELLA BRAVA, 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-5515. This trendy, double-decker restaurant hit its stride from the onset with its posh interior, strong wine list and imaginative Italian menu. We applaud the dozen cracker-thin pizzas, loaded with flavor and generous chunks of vegetable, meat or seafood. Deliriously rich pastas are staples, and favorites include veal ravioli, Petto di Pollo alla Fiorentina, and spicy Scampi alla Bella Brava. ($$)

BELLA'S ITALIAN CAFE, 1413 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-3355. If location is everything, Bella's has it made. This venerable Hyde Park restaurant features a classy but comfortable ambience and an affordable menu of Italian dishes made from scratch. Whether you're devouring one of the bargain pizzas or the Confetti Spaghetti, eating here is fun, and families line up to get in on weekends. Desserts are essential, and the kitchen welcomes late-night diners seven days a week while locals pour into the bar and lounge. Weekday lunches are a good deal, too. Consider the outdoor tables. ($$)

BELLINI, 487 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5449. Owners Ciro and Clarita Mancini hail from Naples, Italy, and insist on importing many of their ingredients. Pastas taste fresh and absorb their opulent tomato and cream sauces; velvety cheeses enhance whatever they touch; the kitchen excels at a creative blend of spices, herbs and exquisite olive oils; and entrees are artfully framed on warm plates. A must is the Pappardelle Martina, the wide pasta marrying sauteed shrimp in a coconut saffron sauce with arugula and, when available, fresh strawberries. We also enjoyed a luscious Ravioli d'Aragosta, the pasta squares stuffed with Maine lobster meat and served with shrimp, scallops and chives swimming in a red cream sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAFFE AMARETTO, 5915 Memorial Highway, Tampa; (813) 885-4700. When it first opened in the early '90s, this affordable but elegant Italian restaurant boasted a kitchen of magicians, and fortunately little has changed. Rich sauces, judicious use of herbs and creative techniques keep the locals coming back. A seafood favorite is the Cernia Livornese, a fresh filet of grouper with black olives, onions, capers and tomato sauce. ($$)

CAFFE PARADISO, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622. Tucked into St. Croix Plaza on south MacDill Avenue, Caffe Paradiso thrives off local appetites and is happy to customize the diner's order. Owner Paolo Tini offers an excellent minestrone soup and salads, a rich-tasting Ossobuco alla Milanese and Pasticcio di Lasagna. Consider the fish specials. ($$-$$$)

CASA LUDOVICO, 1710 Alternate U.S. 19, Palm Harbor; (727) 784-7779. Carmine Cervelli hails from Naples, Italy, and honors family traditions. He has no need for nouvelle or contemporary cuisines when original recipes will do. He brings this philosophy to Casa Ludovico, one of the Bay area's culinary gems. Entrees are cooked to order by a veteran kitchen staff, arranged on the plate with simple elegance and presented by a team of efficient, professional servers. Consider the seafood-rich Linguini alla Pescatore de St. Angelo; the spicy Penne alla Norcini; fresh grouper and salmon; or the hearty Medaglioni di Manzo, a trio of petite filet mignon sauteed in cherry tomato sauce with a hint of oregano and garlic. ($$-$$$)

CDB's SOUTHSIDE, 3671 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 805-2327. The pleasantly appointed interior has plenty of space - a bar and lounge and two large dining rooms. There's more dining upstairs, another bar, and tables and chairs on a balcony. The dinner menu offers plenty to chew in its variety of Americanized Italian dishes - from antipasti to veal to poultry to oven grinders. Consider the chicken Marsala, salmon picatta, spinach lasagna or any number of pizzas. ($)

DELIZIE ITALIAN BAKERY & DELI, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 837-8822. Franco Barlettai and Francesca Caramello run a quaint Italian bakery and deli privy to neighborhood locals. Tucked into the St. Croix Plaza, Delizie gives a false impression because the simple, unadorned dining room doesn't match the creativity of its kitchen. A much-recommended pasta entree is the Baked Ziti and Meatballs, a generous portion of penne pasta mixed with a hearty sauce made from whole peeled tomatoes. Consider the Chicken Paillard with rosemary; Pollo alla Lisa; Shrimp Saute; and Grilled Mahi Mahi in a Livornese sauce. ($$)

DONATELLO, 232 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 875-6660. Donatello is synonymous with class. When the maitre d' snaps his fingers, napkins fly, water glasses fill and menus unfold. Mechanics between kitchen and table are as smooth as the sauces that grace the pastas. Entrees include a splendid veal chop sauteed in brandy, mushroom and creme sauce. The avocado appetizer delights with its accompaniment of tender, fresh, butterflied shrimp and cream sauce. ($$$)

LA TRATTORIA DA GAETANO, 2152 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5664. Gaetano Palmieri runs the show here, taking orders from memory without a printed menu, and cooking everything to order. He brings out a showcase of entrees: filet mignon, New York strip, grouper, snapper, salmon, veal, lamb, shellfish, lobster, rabbit, chicken and stuffed eggplant. Patrons choose their entree, sauce and style of preparation. A wonderful taste sensation for most any dish, particularly stuffed pasta shells, is the sweet pink sauce made with cream and amaretto. Expect a long and rewarding dinner. ($$-$$$)

THE LAUGHING CAT RESTAURANT, 1820 N. 15th St., Tampa; (813) 241-2998. The ambitious menu at this Ybor City restaurant features more than 125 items. You'll find two pages of pasta, 10 veal dishes and 10 chicken dinners. Sherry and cognac add a wonderful punch to risotto, along with baked oysters and plump shrimp. Another highlight is Involtini di Pollo Al Marsala, a moist chicken breast stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto in a Marsala wine sauce. ($$-$$$)

LAURO RISTORANTE, 3915 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 281-2100. Locals who love authentic Italian have worn a path through the door of Lauro Ristorante in south Tampa, where we always leave lingering in garlic and a belt hole larger. Consider the Petto di Pollo Parmigiana, a large double breast densely packed with cheese, breaded and sauteed in butter and spices. Don't pass up the sauteed Dover Sole, a 16-ounce fillet topped with capers and lemon butter and filleted tableside. Pasta dishes are a staple here, filling and framed in lavish cream, tomato or wine sauces. The Penne alla Vodka is tossed with onions and prosciutto, and rich homemade potato dumplings and the sweet flavor of basil spark the Gnocchi Sorrentina. ($$-$$$)

MOTT & HESTER DELI, 1155 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 289-9758. Mott & Hester cranks out the best pasta and some of the tastiest sauces in town. This is the deli that runs circles around bigger restaurants at food shows. Named for a street corner in New York's Little Italy, Mott & Hester nonetheless has an uptown attitude. Sandwiches include Big Tony's Special - mortadella, cappicola, salami and provolone covered with lettuce, tomato, red onions and Italian dressing. Don't pass up the fresh pasta takeout case. It's the formula for a fail-safe dinner party. ($$)

N.Y.P.D. PIZZA, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-6973. This cheesy spot at the Channelside complex bills itself as "the arresting taste of New York," and specializes in gut-busting pizzas, pasta dishes, calzones and hero sandwiches and rolls. ($)

PONTE'S TUSCAN GRILL, 2544 McMullen-Booth Road, Clearwater; (727) 724-5716. There's much to like about Ponte's, a restaurant armed with a superb menu and pots boiling with culinary finesse. The restaurant is the fruit of Chris Ponte, the highly respected culinary mind behind Cafe Ponte. Good bets are the swordfish, sea bass with braised leeks, and veal Marsala accompanied by mascarpone potato puree. ($$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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