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A Little More Morocco

Tribune photo by Jamie Pilarczyk

Shopping in Essaouira runs the gamut from pottery and rugs to spices and Gnaoua music.

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By JAMIE PILARCZYK, The Tampa Tribune

Published: February 16, 2008

ESSAOUIRA, Morocco - On a typical day in this fishing town on Africa's northwest coast, sea gull calls nearly drown the chatter of fishermen lined up along the sea wall. The birds, their white wings splayed out by the wind, sail inches above the heads of veiled women who walk the promenade.

In the background, Portuguese ramparts are a reminder of Essaouira's ancient seagoing past.

I returned to Essaouira (pronounced essa-WEER-ah) in November for the fourth time. I like the size of it, smaller than Marrakech and more manageable. I like that it's an enclave for Moroccan and international artists. I love the open-air cafes, where locals and tourists sit and watch the world go by, drinking sweetened cafe au lait or mint tea. I like the pace, I love the food, and the shopping is always fun.

Winding my way through the walled medina, named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001, the pungent smell coming from the next corner told me I was close to the fish souk, or market. I turned off Ave Zerktouni, the main street running through the center of the medina, onto a side alley. Squeezing my way through a narrow corridor with shoppers on one side and vendors selling pyramids of colorful spices on the other, I entered the open courtyard.

The muddy mix of ice on the cement floor had me walking with caution, as did the crowded path, the salted sardine fins hanging over the edge of the low tables and the couriers wheeling cases of fresh catch to restock.

There was an assortment of fish I had never seen before, at least not from behind a glass case or an aquarium tank: eel and snapper, stingray and crab, and squid with long, dangling tentacles.

The lot is brought in daily by the town's fishermen who brave the Atlantic waters in small, cobalt blue fishing boats. Returning, they squat in front of wood-slatted crates near the port gates, their rubber boots wading in a raw mixture of the fish that their sharp knives fillet.

About $4 bought me a little more than a pound of shark meat, which I took back to my rented apartment for dinner. I made a traditional tagine, or stew, with potatoes, lemon, spices from the spice souk (you can buy a special mix for fish, beef or chicken for about 50 cents) and cilantro. Using bread as a fork, in traditional fashion, made it even more delicious.

Cooking my meals was a bonus to renting an apartment for my three-night stay in Essaouira. I found the listing online at abritel.fr. I had visited a few other Web sites and found that some of the listings were the same.

To rent the three-bedroom, 21/2-bathroom apartment, I dealt directly with its owner, Arnaud van den Branden, who spends half his retirement in Morocco and the other half back home in France. I spent about $115 a day, which included linen and cleaning service, satellite television, Internet access, a kitchen and a laundry room with a washing machine.

Of course, it is a better deal for long-term rental, but I wanted the flexibility to prepare my meals. I would definitely do it again and recommend it to large families and travelers who want more privacy. Plus, Branden warmly welcomed us and became a good resource for the area.

For those looking for a hotel, plenty of interesting options are available inside the medina. Old homes turned into guest houses abound and are unique and beautiful. Most are set up around an open courtyard.

Medina Stroll

On day two, I decided to do a little shopping. Walking along the ramparts, made famous in the opening scene of Orson Welles' 1952 film "Othello," I came upon Rachida Said. She sat on a small stool about a foot off of the ground in her tjellabit, a long-sleeved, floor-length robe. Her hair was covered with a multicolored veil topped with a floppy hat. She is 59 but has only been painting the last nine years. Her skin was tanned from mornings spent in the sun selling her paintings.

"I thought painting was a nice thing to do," she said. "It is easy for me. I enjoy it."

In the afternoon, she changes places with her husband, Mustapha el Afroughi, who spends his mornings at home. He studied art in France and taught her how to paint. The simple scenes on canvas capture life in Essaouira with bold colors - women in long veils, whitewashed homes and street scenes. I picked up a photograph-size piece signed by Rachida and paid her the asking price of $8. In return, she invited me to her house for lunch.

After politely declining, I probed farther into the medina.

I walked past a used bookstore about the size of a large armoire complete with foldout doors, heavy with an eclectic assortment of soft-backs such as "Macbeth," a travel book to Asia and the Pacific, and a Portuguese dictionary.

The smell of baking bread from the public oven stirred my taste buds, and the stacks of honeyed pastries in shop windows got me thinking about lunch.

I stopped in Riad al-Baraka, a restaurant set in a former Jewish school. The intimate tables are set around a courtyard shaded by a fig tree. Many Moroccan dishes were on the menu, but I went with the special - chicken livers - and wasn't disappointed. The meal was finished with a pear, banana, pomegranate and orange salad. It was a refreshing treat.

With a full stomach, I wandered back into the medina, where I found Abdelmoumn Zamahri. I collect local music from the places I travel because it offers me a deeper aspect to the place, another dimension for exploring the culture.

Zamahri's store wasn't much bigger than the one selling books. Nonetheless, it was stocked floor to ceiling with an array of CDs and DVDs, including amusing comedies from North Africa's indigenous Berber communities.

Zamahri, 26, said he has been selling music for 13 years with his older brother, who plays the drums in a traditional band. Their musical interest came from their mother. She used to play the drums around the house when they were growing up in a town about an hour south of Essaouira.

Zamahri loves the music scene in Essaouira and is happy to call it his home.

"It is relaxed here," he said. "You have a good beach here."

He also points out, with much pride, that it is home to the four-day Gnaoua and World Music Festival each June. Local and international artists descend on the city for an amazing show of music and art.

Saying goodbye to Zamahri, I headed past the city's small museum, which has no official name, on Rue Laalouj. The $1 admission offers a glimpse into the country's past. My favorite exhibit was a collection of Berber jewelry and musical instruments.

The three nights I spent in Essaouira were just enough to get a taste of the artists, history and slow hum of life. I noticed while walking along the wide stretch of beach that I could have rented a camel or horse to ride along the coast. Depending on your bartering skill, a 15-minute ride could be haggled for about $5 to $10. If you're looking for a deeper trip into the surrounding countryside, Ranch de Diabat takes guests on three-day camping treks starting at $440.

Nearby Excursions

Essaouira's location makes for easy day trips or overnighters to Marrakesh and Agadir. Marrakesh is a whirl, and it's definitely worth spending several days exploring the ancient medina and colorful souks. Agadir is a resort town catering to European tourists. Leveled by an earthquake in 1960, it is relatively new in construction and feels more western.

For a more in-depth look at rural village life, go off the proverbial beaten path. Travel southeast of Agadir until you hit the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, slightly before the Sahara sands sweep you away. Olivier Jayne, who runs Imuraid Nature, organizes trips to Ait Ahmed, where he has built a campground with traditional nomadic tents near a spring-fed oasis.

"The place is wonderful and was at a real risk of extinction," said Jayne, a Frenchman living in Morocco.

Imuraid Nature is constructed around the ruins of the original market built by the French army in the 1930s.

"The old market was disappearing, and I couldn't accept that the future generations won't see that."

Trips include bedding, transportation and meals. Bread is made on site in a traditional oven. Dinner includes listening to local musicians around a campfire while sipping mint tea. Candle lanterns line the path at night to showers heated with solar energy, which also light the bathrooms. Swimming, canoeing and hiking are available, as well as tours of the small villages that make up Ait Ahmed.

"It's different tourism," Jayne said. "A true one."

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: I flew into Casablanca on a direct flight from New York and caught a connection from Casablanca to Agadir since I was headed south. There are connections to other major cities in the country including Marrakesh. Direct flights to Casablanca and Marrakech are also available from Paris and other European hubs.

GETTING AROUND: To travel around Marrakech or Agadir, bus and taxi service are plentiful. Intercity taxis squish six people in a four-person sedan, so you might consider paying for the entire taxi or an extra seat to better enjoy the ride. CTM or Supratours bus services are clean and efficient.

LANGUAGE: Moroccan Arabic and French are the main languages, and many of the touristy areas have merchants and hoteliers who speak at least a little English. Knowing basic French would be an asset for getting around the country on your own. While I don't speak French, I used my English and the indigenous Berber language to get around.

STAYING SAFE: Having served two years in the U.S. Peace Corps in Morocco, I was familiar with the culture and customs of the Muslim country. Modest dress is recommended. Although I didn't cover my hair, I wore pants, ankle-length skirts and 3/4-length sleeves. Many other travelers go sleeveless and wear shorts, but locals respect you more when you dress modestly. Plus, the less attention you call to yourself the better.

It certainly helps that I know the language, however I have yet to feel worried or sensed danger because of my nationality. My blue eyes and blonde hair don't scream American because not many American tourists make it to Morocco; I'm usually mistaken for French or Swiss. Women can be harassed on the street, but I would get more comments (no touching) from men in the bigger cities. I would recommend traveling with another person, if not for the extra comfort than for the ability to share the experience.

To learn about Morocco's culture and customs, read "Culture Shock! Morocco: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette" by Orin Hargraves (Marshall Cavendish Corp. ($15.95). Also, go to the U.S. Department of State's Web site (travel.state.gov) for travel tips and warnings.

THINGS TO DO:
Imuraid Nature: www.imuraid-nature.com, or e-mail Olivier.m13@free.fr for rates.

Ranch de Diabat: Offers rides along the beach and multiday trips through the surrounding areas starting at about $440 for a three-day trip. If you're looking for about a 15-minute camel ride along the beach, haggle with any number of those offering rides. Prices will vary depending on your bartering skill ($10 would be on the high end of the scale). For information, go to ranchdediabat.com.

Renting apartments: Go to www.abritel.fr. (My rental is at essaouirasejours.googlepages.com.)

Tourist information: Go to www.tourisme.gov.ma.

Reporter Jamie Pilarczyk can be reached at (813) 835-2114 or jpilarczyk@tampatrib.com.

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