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Published: January 4, 2008
Updated: 01/02/2008 10:12 pm
SANDWICHES/ SALADS
BEARSS SANDWICHES, 14022 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 961-9486. This tiny, bustling deli specializes in piled-high sandwiches, about two dozen combinations, each around $4. Diners get their choice of bread: Cuban, rye, egg bread, wheat, hoagie rolls, pumpernickel and onion rolls. Popular choices include the porkless Cuban, with salami, cheese and ham; the Cordon Bleu sandwich, with a thick, lightly breaded chicken filet; and a Brazil Cariocca, which is a combination of hard salami, ham, American cheese and oregano. ($)
CALIFORNIA CICCIO, 190 37th Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 898-8226. This delightful little haunt may look like a fast food joint, with only a handful of booths and a brisk takeout business. But the product is worth sitting down for, and some offerings are downright addicting. The kitchen plays with ingredients and flavors, blending cuisines of Asia, South America and the Mediterranean. The menu features wraps, pasta, infused stir-frys, pizzas and salads - all at bargain prices. ($)
CARROLLWOOD CAFE & DELI, 11606 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 964-9008. Sandwiches are a mainstay of this cafe's menu, and you'll be tempted to try them all. Start with the Wall Street Reuben, a big bruiser with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on Jewish rye bread. Or go with the Deli Trio, a classic combination of kosher corned beef, New York pastrami and Swiss cheese. Chicken noodle and Boston clam chowder are everyday staples, along with a third soup that changes daily. ($)
DELI NEWS CAFE, 680 Main Street, downtown Dunedin; (727) 735-0505. This popular lunch spot is sparkling clean and awash in colorful cartoon murals inside and out. The menu features a dozen hearty deli and specialty sandwiches, salads, soups and a tempting array of desserts. You'll also find daily lunch specials such as a meatball sub, chicken fajita wrap, Italian sausage or Greek gyros. ($)
EARL OF SANDWICH, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 879-1762. When the Englishman John Montagu died in 1792, he left behind a legacy that included service as postmaster general, secretary of state and first lord of the admiralty. He also was the fourth earl of Sandwich, a dignitary in a long line of English peerage that exists to this day. He was credited with inventing the sandwich, and the fast-casual restaurant bearing his name serves about 20 simple, filling choices, plus salads, side orders and desserts. Nothing fancy here, but then, English food is meant to be eaten, not discussed. ($)
EVOS, 609 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3867 (check the telephone book for other locations). This casual eatery serves healthful burgers, wraps, fries and smoothies. Bite into the vegetarian soft taco and you'll get a flavorful serving of ground soy. Soy also is served up in the All-American Champ, a quarter-pound, charbroiled soy burger. Potato slivers are tossed in hot air, vastly reducing the fat content. Salmon shows up in a sandwich patty served with low-cal dill spread, as well as a wrap stuffed with basmati rice and grilled onions and peppers. ($)
LA CASA DOLCE CAFE, 406 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 259-0002. Quaint and certainly inexpensive, La Casa Dolce Cafe is a magnet for laptop Bohemians. They can be found day and night sitting at indoor or outdoor tables, pattering away at their keyboards while sipping macchiatos or sorbet smoothies. The restaurant makes good sandwiches, and not just any sandwich. The panini rules here, among the better in town. The staff presents an enticing array of cakes and confections each day, and nobody should dismiss the trademark gelato and sorbet. ($)
LA CREPERIA CAFE, 1729 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-9700. This European-style bistro proves you can stuff crepes with more than fruit and cream and turn them into a delicious meal. Some of the best combinations include the Jambalaya with shrimp, sausage, caramelized onions, green peppers, garlic and Tabasco; and the Turkey a la Brie, packed with roasted turkey, creamy Brie and tomatoes. If crepes don't tempt you, try the baguette or panini sandwiches, salads and pasta dishes. More than two dozen crepes are offered for dessert. Or, you can create your own. ($$)
LONNI'S SANDWICHES, ETC., 513 E. Jackson St., Tampa; (813) 223-2333. Lonni's pleases lunch crowds with giant sandwiches on wild-rice bread. Choices include Mango Breeze (brie, avocado, sprouts and chutney), Albuquerque Turkey (with Gouda, turkey and chipotle sauce), Curried Tropical Chicken Salad and others. ($)
MARC & DIDI'S DELI, 201 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 250-6272. Marc and Didi Zudar specialize in the humble and hearty sandwich and their lunch menu combos are belly-busters. We recommend the Turkey Pride, a thin-sliced breast with Thousand Island dressing, ripe tomatoes, bacon and provolone on pumpernickel. Another favorite is the West Coast, made with a creamy chicken salad and slices of fresh avocado, Gouda cheese and bacon. The kitchen cooks up flavorful deep-dish quiches: Lorraine, Chicken Portobello, Spinach-Tomato and Crab Artichoke. Huge salads include a Chef, Greek, Cobb and Garden Veggie - all big enough to split between two people. The Coconut Cream Pie is chock-full of fresh-grated coconut stuffed into a homemade pastry crust. ($)
MEL'S HOT DOGS, 4136 E. Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 985-8000. The hot dog is as much a part of life as breathing air, and Mel's - quite frankly - is king. Mel's dogs are created by Chicago's Vienna Beef Company from kosher-style whole beef cuts and contain no chicken, pork or soy bean. The beef is slowly smoked, so the casing "pops" when bitten into. Highly recommended is the Mighty Mel Hot Dog, a quarter-pound tuber on a poppy seed bun complemented with piquant relish, mustard and thinly sliced pickles. The basket includes a very good and generous portion of French fries, and wholesome-tasting coleslaw or oven-baked beans. ($)
PANE RUSTICA BAKERY & CAFE, 3225 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 902-8828. This quaint south Tampa eatery continues to bake a reputation as the hottest Bohemian breadsmith around, and it recently added dinner to the mix. Pastas are a specialty, such as the Giant Open Faced Seafood Ravioli. Good choices include Cedar Roasted Salmon, spinach and chicken lasagna, pan-seared Filet Medallions, and stuffed Quail and Sausage. Be sure to check out the flatbread pizzas. ($-$$)
PANERA BREAD, 11878 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa, (813) 866-9333 (check the telephone book for other locations). This European-style eatery offers an array of baked goods, sandwiches, soups and salads. Panera, which means bakery in Italian, offers a dozen specialty breads, including Asiago Cheese, Fiesta, Sun-Dried Tomato, French Strip and Sourdough. Grilled panini sandwiches include the Cuban Pork & Ham, with smoked pork tenderloin, sliced ham, Swiss cheese, chipotle mayonnaise and mustard on Asiago Cheese Focaccia; and the Fontega Chicken, with smoked, pulled white-meat chicken, red onion, mozzarella cheese, tomato, basil and chipotle on Rosemary & Onion Focaccia. Danishes, croissants, muffins, strudels, scones and a variety of flavored bagels are among the fresh-baked items found in the display case. ($)
PINK FLAMINGO CAFE, 304 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2928. Breakfast starts at 7 a.m. on weekdays and includes about a dozen gut-busters. On the rich side is the Crab Cake Benedict, which replaces the traditional Canadian bacon with crab, and comes with home fries, hash browns or grits. Typical lunch specials are a tasty Broccoli and Chicken Alfredo Pasta, made with a buttery sauce that lingers over the florets and angel hair. The Spinach and Artichoke Quesadilla comes with a pair of crisp tortillas stuffed with sauteed spinach leaves, diced 'chokes, aromatic basil, garlic, tomatoes and Parmesan and mozzarella. Sandwich choices include the delicious Grilled Island Club. ($)
RUBEN'S CUBANS, 4941 E. Busch Blvd., Temple Terrace; (813) 989-2178. This friendly neighborhood deli and cafe specializes in sandwiches and hearty Latin fare at reasonable prices. In addition to its namesake, you'll also find roast pork, corned beef, ham and Swiss, roast beef, turkey club, Reuben, pastrami, steak, meatball, B.L.T., tuna, egg and ham salad. Entrees include tasty platters of yellow rice, black beans and plantains with a choice of roast pork, picadillo, palomilla steak or lemon pepper chicken. ($)
SAVVY JACK'S, 11401 N. 56th St. (in the Terrace Oaks Plaza), Temple Terrace; (813) 914-8804. This breakfast and lunch spot specializes in gourmet sandwiches, hot entrees and desserts. Sandwich choices include the Beef Chardonnay and the Virginia Ham Dijon, both topped with sauteed mushrooms; the Turkey Jack, a thin-sliced gobbler covered with melted jack cheese; a garlic-pressed Cuban; and a creamy turkey pecan salad sandwich with a side of cranberry sauce. Catfish comes three ways: pecan breaded and pan fried, blackened or grilled, served with two sides and a hot biscuit. Sides include red bliss potato salad, coleslaw, broccoli medley, cinnamon baked beans, cinnamon spiced apples, Greek potato salad, garlic home fries and a vegetable of the day. Try the apple pecan pie, cheese cake or brownies. ($)
SCHILLER'S DELI, 4327 El Prado Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-6666. This German deli ranks high for simplicity and freshness in its sandwiches. Favorites include the Reuben, with fine quality sauerkraut and corned beef; the Bavarian, with Black Forest ham and Swiss; and the Schiller's U-Boat, with its variety of German cold cuts. ($)
WOODY'S FAMOUS GREEK SALADS AND GOURMET SANDWICHES, 1722 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 254-2806. This south Tampa eatery specializes in deli sandwiches, homemade soups and an array of salads. Sandwiches include the Festivale (turkey breast on a toasted croissant with cranberry sauce, mayo, lettuce and cucumbers) and the Bleu Max (rare roast beef with a blue cheese sauce, garnished with lettuce, tomato, cucumber and sweet onion). In the mood for roughage? Try the Famous Greek, with lettuce, Greek potato salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, Greek olives, peppers, feta cheese, shrimp, beet, radish and scallion with Greek vinaigrette. ($)
WRIGHT'S GOURMET HOUSE, 1200 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-3838. The place to pick up desserts when you want people to think they're homemade. In addition to concocting the yummiest sweets this side of heaven, this crew whips up one of the best Cuban sandwiches anywhere. Hot entrees, served cafeteria style, add to a slate of sandwiches that are standouts for their fresh ingredients. Not cheap, but worth the investment. ($-$$)
THAI
AI-MEI-THAI RESTAURANT, 5391 34th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0965. The menu lists more than 120 main dishes with familiar favorites such as Pad Thai and a handful of curries. Try the Thai Beef Jerky with a Thai soy sauce and scallion dip; Thai sausage, cooked in lime juice and fish sauce; or the fragrant Yum Shrimp and Squid, scented with ginger and chili paste. A user-friendly menu is spelled out like a Bingo game. For some of us, it sure is easier to say "S2" than "Tom Yum Gnoog." ($)
BAN THAI RESTAURANT, 5374 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 968-7668. Enjoy the lavish teak woodwork and Oriental carvings at this elegantly appointed Thai restaurant. The Yum appetizers are great, as is Chicken in Cream of Coconut Soup. Vegetarians have plenty of choices and there are more than a dozen macrobiotic dishes. Shrimp and pineapple are abundant in a not-too-sweet Sweet and Sour Shrimp. Ginger Chicken is a stir-fried dish with tender chicken, peppers, onions and carrots. Finish dinner with deep-fried Crunchy Banana Coins over coconut ice cream or Lychee (a Chinese fruit), along with a refreshing Thai tea. ($-$$)
BENJARONG THAI, 14402 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 265-2667. Benjarong, which translates to five colors, refers to the patterns on fine Thai porcelain. And there are fine specialties here, such as Tornado Shrimp (jumbo shrimp in a light curry sauce) and Sizzling Seafood (lobster and shellfish in a garlicky brown sauce). Ask for Benjarong's spice tray - Thai mustard sauce, jalapeno peppers, dried chili peppers, and red and green chili peppers in fish sauce. ($)
CAFE DE SIAM, 11242 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 855-1108. This Thai restaurant offers an ambitious menu with more than 80 items. The best dishes are the appetizers. Laarb, the Thai name for a spicy pork, beef or chicken salad, is a vibrant starter. The ground pork was mixed with onions, mint and lime juice, and cabbage leaves are used as utensils for eating the meat. Yum Nuer is thinly sliced beef salad, tossed in a lime and chili sauce with tomatoes, onions and sliced cucumbers. Entrees of note include Pad Met Ma-Mouhng Himmaparn, a chicken stir-fry with scallions, cashews and dried red peppers, served in a garlicky brown sauce; and Horh Moke, a ramekin of sliced pork, cabbage and fresh basil. ($)
JASMINE THAI, 13248 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-1501. Gourmet Thai with rich, imaginative sauces and presentation worthy of Polaroids. Sample the Tornado Shrimp, and Long John Silver's will lose you forever. Fresh crustaceans arrive in an eggplant tub, doused with green curry sauce and trimmed with red pepper slivers. It's all art, all the time. ($)
PLOY THAI RESTAURANT, 1941 W. Brandon Blvd. (in the Providence Square Plaza), Brandon; (813) 684-5007. This quiet Thai haven offers good food and good service. The kitchen takes time to present dishes as tasty art, with vegetable garnishes and pretty purple orchids. Fish fans can delight in a Whole Red Snapper, beautifully bathed in a bright chili sauce and displayed on a decorative fish platter. Panang Curry teams shrimp - simmered in coconut milk, curry and basil - with crunchy, sliced zucchini. The colorful Red Curry with pork is loaded with pineapple and mixed vegetables, and the Chili Sauce is sauteed with pork, carrots, scallions and red peppers in a peppery sauce. ($$)
PU THAI, 8730 49th St. N., Pinellas Park; (727) 547-6556. The name refers to the highlands of Thailand, but mountains of food seem like an appropriate interpretation, too. Good choices include frog legs and Pad Ke Maow, which translates as a drunk stir fry. A multitude of curry dishes come in red, green and other colors depending on its heat index. A number of steamed and sauteed vegetable dishes will please most vegetarians. ($)
ROYAL PALACE THAI RESTAURANT, 811 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5893. Excellent sauces and vibrant vegetables are reasons enough for most guests to fight for a parking space and wait for a table at this south Tampa Thai eatery. Enjoy the yum salads, with shrimp, squid or beef in a zesty lime juice-chili sauce with cucumbers, carrots, onions and chili peppers. A chicken version of Nam Sod is as zesty as any pork version at the competition. Sizzling chicken is a snap, crackle and pop selection of flavorful fried poultry. ($$)
SAWATDEE THAI CUISINE, 10938 N. 56th St., Temple Terrace; (813) 985-2071. There's fancier fare across town, but for a neighborhood restaurant, Sawatdee offers exotic dining at fair prices. The menu adheres to Thai basics, but offers a few surprises, including a pumpkin curry dish with choice of chicken, beef or pork. ($)
SIAM GARDEN THAI RESTAURANT, 3125 Ninth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-0613. Open since 1988, this is one of St. Petersburg's oldest Thai restaurants. Entrees include a number of tasty chicken, steak, seafood, duck and frog-leg dishes. Start dinner with Siam's Yum salads, featuring beef, shrimp or squid. Double Delight (shrimp and chicken), Clay Pot Combination (shrimp, squid and crab) and Panang Curry are other winners. ($)
SIMPLY THAI RESTAURANT, 875 E. Bloomingdale Ave., Brandon; (813) 681-4470. Spring rolls, pork sate and a hearty selection of poultry, pork, beef and seafood stir-fry selections are offered at this Brandon Thai stop. A friendly staff walks guests through its mild to hot dishes. ($)
SUKHOTHAI RESTAURANT, 8201-A N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 933-7990. Sleek and sophisticated, tasty and tasteful. This is the place to dazzle a date. You can even touch toes by accident. In the Khan-Toke room, diners slip off their shoes and sit on the floor. Start with the duck soup. ($$)
THAI-AM 2 RESTAURANT, 13037 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 398-9700. Viyada and Sungkard Thanupakorn moved to a new, more spacious location on the beach, but the restaurant still retains its warm, friendly charm. The lengthy menu features soups, appetizers (try the nam sod, a mixture of minced chicken, lime juice and ginger) and a good selection of beef, chicken, pork and seafood entrees. Recommended are the curries, hearty and prepared with care. You'll also find tempura, teriyaki, sashimi, sushi and a number of other Japanese dishes. ($-$$)
THAI CORNER, 713 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 228-6801. This solid Thai restaurant caters to the downtown lunch crowd with a fairly traditional menu of rice and noodle-based dishes. Flavors tend to be mild, so be sure to ask if you like extra heat. Try the Red Curry and Pad See-Ew. ($$)
THAI BAY THAI RESTAURANT, 1300 E. Bay Drive (Largo Center), Largo; (727) 584-5522. A plain exterior doesn't prepare you for the inventive food found here. Order the Amazing Beef (with broccoli), Volcano Shrimp (with lava sauce) or Two Friends Panang (with curry). Entrees deliver subtle and powerful flavors. The heat index ranges from mild to molten. ($)
THAI ISLAND, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (Davis Islands), Tampa; (813) 251-9111. This family-run restaurant features fresh ingredients - many grown on the premises - and a friendly, tropical vibe. Don't miss the corn fritters (a less bricklike cousin of the hush puppy) and the panang curry, especially with pork. Homemade soups and salads are also a good bet. ($-$$)
THAI SWEET BASIL, 3875 Northdale Blvd., Tampa; (813) 961-8898. This exceptional Thai restaurant on Northdale Boulevard is worth the drive even if you don't live in the neighborhood. The menu mixes beautifully presented classics with innovative dishes like Scallop Wasabi. The Duck Curry is an exceptional autumnal feast; also noteworthy are the Green Curry, house sangria and Fried Banana with Coconut Ice Cream. ($$)
THAI THANI, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-9200. Thai Thani has kept up a steady stream of locals and tourists who come for its inventive sushi and sashimi offerings in the Japanese tradition, creatively presented Thai seafood and curry dishes, and the tastefully appointed dining room. The menu reflects the influences of other countries, such as China and India, but stresses the traditional soups, curry dishes, spiced salads, fish, vegetables and dipping sauces of Thailand. Many dishes are a harmonious blend of sweet, sour and spicy - some very, very spicy. ($$)
JAPANESE
BONSAI SUSHI, 2826 E. Bearss Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-2755. Sushi chef Jiro-San has mastered the art of presentation with consummate flair, and his best dishes suggest a marriage of the Iron Chef and Julia Child. Rather than rubber stamping his menu, Jiro-San adds an original and often surprising twist to his creations. While the sushi bar offers plenty of elegant selections, don't miss the Salmon Misoyaki with a rich miso sauce, or a sizzling order of Gaz-Bi, grilled short ribs slathered in a Korean-style barbecue sauce. ($$)
CAFE JAPON, International Plaza, 22223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-8619. This sushi bar - reportedly the longest in Tampa - offers inventive cuisine and an array of sakes. The entrees are delicious and beautifully presented, but sushi is the star of the show. Try the Dragon Fire roll, which combines eel and spicy tuna, or an exotic selection like the Tropicana roll, outlined in thin slices of mango with a dusting of walnuts on top. The seafood salad is also excellent. Whatever you order, the main ingredients are high-quality fish, vegetables and rice, so you can indulge without worrying about your waistline. ($$)
CRAZY BUFFET, 2702 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 998-9228. It's a cut above the Asian mega buffets around town, offering all-you-can eat sushi and Japanese soups and salads. Pick your own meats and veggies and watch chefs cook it on the hibachi grill. A traditional hot bar includes dumplings, garlic chicken and beef with broccoli. Evenings bring out a raw and steamed seafood bar with scallops, oysters, shrimp and the like. ($$)
GINZA JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE, 8104 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 806-1551. Ginza offers lots of ways to eat healthful Japanese fare, from hibachi combinations such as steak and calamari to Nabeyaki Udon, a hearty noodle dish. The sushi chef is delightful, deftly preparing colorful rolls with fresh ingredients. ($)
KADO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI BAR, 6821 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 890-8201. Sushi fans can feast on yellowtail, shrimp, octopus, tuna and other treats. The anti-sushi crowd can enjoy cooked specialties at one of a dozen teppanyaki tables. The chefs provide great entertainment as they whirl and twirl their cleavers. Entrees include seasoned chicken, steak, salmon, shrimp and other seafood combinations. ($$)
TOKYO BAY, 5901 Sun Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0770. Tokyo Bay offers fresh, clean and translucent seafood, presented with flair by master sushi chefs behind the bar. Two people can split the enormous Sushi Boat Special Dinner for $30, and sample most of the basics before bursting. A more streamlined Tokyo Bay Bento Box comes with sauteed dumplings, Teriyaki Chicken, California Roll, and Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura. Sushi selections include tuna, salmon, yellowtail, squid, clam, mussel and quail egg. Cooked selections include fresh water eel, baby octopus, jelly fish and grasshopper. Rolled sushi with seaweed and rice is a good bet for anyone new to this cuisine. Each is hand rolled, cut into six or eight pieces, and served with paper-thin ginger root and spicy wasabi. ($)
TOKYO SUSHI CAFE, 195 Second Ave. N. (in BayWalk), St. Petersburg; (727) 823-1912. In an ideal world, a sushi bar would be on every street corner. Instead, we have to seek them out. We're glad we found Tokyo Sushi Cafe at BayWalk, the entertainment-and-retail center in downtown St. Petersburg. The product is fresh, translucent and clean to the nose and tongue. Consider the Salmon Teriyaki, Seafood Combo Tempura or Hamachi Kama, a tasty broiled cheek of yellowtail. ($$)
WATER, 1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8406. Clean, crisp and transparent are apt words to describe Water, the simply appointed sushi restaurant connected to Ciccio & Tony's on south Tampa's Restaurant Row. The offerings are modest in size but gracefully priced, and more important, fresh, zesty and pungent. Signature creations are the homemade purees and aromatic sauces that meld entrees into lavish flavor combinations. Consider the Water Bowls, with the food served atop rice in a bowl; Water Fresh and Crisp, including salads, dips and slaws; and Water Clear Rolls, sushi rolls made of rice paper instead of nori, or seaweed. ($-$$)
YOKO'S JAPANESE RESTAURANT, 3217 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-4311. A south Tampa favorite, Yoko ranks with the best in town. Favorites are Yoko's Special, a combination of tuna, salmon, smelt roe and tempura chips; the Love Roll, including smoked salmon, shrimp and avocado; the ubiquitous California Roll, a mix of crab, avocado, cucumber and smelt roe; and the Arizona, which includes delicious yellow tail, smelt roe and scallion. Great lunch menu. ($$-$$$)
YOKOHAMA JAPANESE RESTAURANT AND SUSHI BAR, 760 W. Lumsden Road, Brandon; (813) 684-3485. This fine restaurant will make you homesick for Japan, even if you've never been there. It offers a wide variety of sushi, including flying fish roe, sea eels, tekka (tuna), unakyu (eel and cucumber), agedashi tofu (bean curd) and hokkigai (cooked clams). Best bet is the Yokohama Lunch Box, which includes sushi, teriyaki chicken, tempura and rice. ($$)
VIETNAMESE
INDOCHINOIS, 3324 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-3432. If you've never tried Vietnamese cuisine before, here's a place to start, with a brief, uncomplicated menu of mostly successful, mildly spiced dishes. Try such Vietnamese classics as Pho, the hearty meal-in-bowl soup with beef tenderloin and rice noodles, or Bun Thit Nuong, a bowl of barbecue pork and cold noodles dressed with mint leaves and a slightly sweet sauce. The portions are light but so is the hit to your wallet, so be prepared to order multiple starters and entrees to satisfy the big appetites in your party. ($-$$)
RESTAURANT BT, 1633 W. Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1916. No discussion about restaurants in Tampa can exclude B.T. Nguyen-Batley's masterpiece of French-Vietnamese cuisine in Hyde Park Village, where a regal menu marries a sophisticated atmosphere. Nguyen-Batley has created an exotic and undulating landscape in food, each dish energized by earthy ingredients and finished off with an artist's brush. We don't need to recommend any one entree because the entire menu stands out. ($$-$$$)
SAIGON BAY, 2373 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-0854. The former Lemongrass delivers cordial service and a moderately priced menu of Vietnamese family fare, much of it anchored in noodles or rice. Consider a steaming bowl of seafood soup, Pho Do Bien, and if appetite permits, the bananas flambe dessert, served over coconut ice cream. ($)
Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.
$ means $30 or less
$$ means $30 to $60
$$$ means more than $60
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