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Feels Like Home (With Better Food)

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By JOHN W. ALLMAN, The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 10, 2008

TAMPA - Get in your car and drive to the Bungalow Bistro of Seminole Heights.

Do it. Now.

Time is of the essence. It won't be long before more and more people realize this new gourmet eatery has opened in the heart of Seminole Heights, and the limited number of tables will be filled.

The Bungalow Bistro may still be a work in progress, but what a promising start.

The dining area inside the renovated 1920s two-story house just south of Hillsborough Avenue seats 36 people. Its colonial decor is tasteful, even if the wide wood tables and chairs look like place holders for something more to come.

The wine and beer list won't be available until month's end. Customers can bring their own for now - for dinner or Sunday brunch. And there's a rooftop patio that should be in high demand once warmer weather arrives.

Everything is made fresh. This isn't a chain eatery with a stockpile of frozen and canned goods. The kitchen is in full view of the dining room.

Be prepared for some items to sell out, but don't be mad. This happened twice to us during two visits, but both times the alternative choice was as good if not better.

Offering two distinct menus at lunch and dinner, the Bungalow chefs have crafted a variety of sandwiches and entrees that are at once familiar but also unique to their blend of Euro-American cuisine.

For lunch, we recommend the Gorgonzola Blue Cheese burger. It's basic but bursting with flavor and cheesy goodness. Coupled with a house salad (goat cheese, pine nuts, kalamata olives), it's just enough food to satisfy without leaving you stuffed.

We also enjoyed the Grilled Portobello Sandwich, which came on a multigrain bun with spring mix leaves, plum tomato slices and Gouda cheese. The sweet roasted red bell pepper pesto added a touch of color and was a perfect, mildly spicy complement to the earthiness of the huge, fleshy mushroom cap.

One soup of the day was Squash Bisque, a blend of four varieties which wasn't as thick or creamy as you might expect, but didn't skimp on hearty, autumnal flavor. Another soup, Roasted Red Pepper Bisque, was thicker but didn't hold its flavor as well.

The dinner menu is where the kitchen really shines.

The Chicken Roulade - a rolled chicken breast stuffed with feta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and spinach - may well be the best entree we've eaten in years. Served on a platter with mashed potatoes and a flavorful beurre blanc sauce, it's magnificent.

While they sadly were out of their regular pork loin (stuffed with pumpernickel bread, apricots, cranberries and apples), the nightly special, a Jamaican jerk pork loin, was available. Served over yellow rice with raisins and plantains, it was spicy but not overwhelming and more than plentiful with three thick chops.

Other entrees include steaks, seafood and vegetarian options.

Even the fried calamari appetizer with sweet chili sauce was better than you'd find at most restaurants.

Here's hoping that Bungalow Bistro's reputation spreads throughout Tampa. It deserves attention.

DINING REVIEW

The Bungalow Bistro of Seminole Heights

BOTTOM LINE: Elegant gourmet dining in a comfy neighborhood house.

WHERE: 5137 N. Florida Ave., Tampa

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended for dinner

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Coming soon

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Dinner entrees range from $9 to $24

CALL: (813) 237-2000

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. John W. Allman can be reached at (813) 259-7915 or jallman@tampatrib.com.

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