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FEEDER'S DIGEST

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 11, 2008

AMERICAN

THE BALLYHOO GRILL, 7604 Ehrlich Road, Tampa (Citrus Park); (813) 926-2149. The Ballyhoo serves its seafood with a Florida flair, but that's not the only reason folks keep returning to this Citrus Park eatery. Daily lunch specials and a comfortable atmosphere make the Ballyhoo Grill a popular escape for seafood and steak lovers. The restaurant is a raw bar, too, offering oysters and steamed clams. Sandwiches, salads and hearty pastas also are served. ($)

BAHAMA BREEZE, 3045 N. Rocky Point Drive E., Tampa (north side of Courtney Campbell Parkway); (813) 289-7922. This restaurant in the Darden Restaurants Inc. chain, which also operates Olive Garden and Red Lobster, is a Tampa magnet. The outdoor bar is packed during the weekends. The restaurant offers a hearty selection of all-American staples - seafood, chicken, beef and pork - with a Caribbean accent. Large portions and moderate prices keep customers returning. There's live music seven nights a week. ($)

BAR LOUIE, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa (at International Plaza); (813) 874-1919. Watching the Bucs implode isn't such a bad thing if you are chowing down on a burger and sipping a Guinness stout. Even without the football, consider it a done deal at Bar Louie in International Plaza. High-end television screens and good grub are the ticket here, including the Muffaletta sandwich, the PLT, and the gut-busting Black Angus burger. Beers on tap are musts: John Courage Amber, McEwann's, Sierra Nevada, Kirin, Pilsner Urquell, Yuengling and Boddingtons. ($)

BELLARTE, in the Radisson hotel, 12600 Roosevelt Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 572-7800. Hotel restaurants often can be an indigestible proposition, but that's not the case at Bellarte, one of the area's finer exceptions to the rule. This casually elegant restaurant prepares a piquant leek and potato soup, a tasty sirloin Carpaccio with capers and a lemon-truffle cream; fresh medallions of Tuna au Poivre; a hearty boneless Pork Chop; and for big appetites, the Mixed Grill trio of filet mignon, salmon and grouper served with lobster mashed potatoes and fresh vegetables. Seafood lovers shouldn't miss the Coquilles St. Jacques, large sauteed sea scallops in a heavenly Mornay sauce with black truffle duchess potatoes. ($$)

THE CAPITAL GRILLE, Bay Street at International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 830-9433. The Capital Grille's menu is eclectic and contemporary, emphasizing steaks, seafood and poultry. The restaurant prides itself on serving prime, dry-aged meat, prized by steak aficionados because it gives the beef a more intense flavor. The signature 24-ounce porterhouse is served on a heated platter with a splash of au jus. ($$$)

FRESCO'S WATERFRONT BAR & GRILL, 300 Second Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-4429. If location is everything, Fresco's should stay afloat for a long time. Formerly the Black Opal and Apropos, the building sits on the edge of the city marina, a stone's throw from the Vinoy resort and Museum of Fine Arts. Outdoor tables overlook a waterscape of sailboat slips, and diners enjoy cool evening breezes. Salads are deftly prepared and benefit from subtle homemade dressings, including the Insalata Della Casa. Entrees worth devouring are the Osso Buco, a large braised veal shank drenched in a wine reduction with mushrooms; fresh halibut with mashed potatoes and artichokes; blackened ahi tuna; and a whopping 21-ounce pork chop. ($$-$$$)

THE FRONT PORCH GRILLE, 5924 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 237-5511. This cozy eatery serves Sunday brunch as well as lunch and dinner. The menu features all-American favorites such as pot roast, burgers, pasta and salads. Then there's a bit of international flair with shepherd's pie, Cuban pork with black beans, chicken or eggplant parmigiana, and Thai chicken pizza. ($-$$)

GATORS CAFE & SALOON, Kingfish Wharf on the south side of Johns Pass, Treasure Island; (727) 367-8951. To some, Gators is a nightspot famous for loud rock music, drink specials and a gathering place for local University of Florida fans. For others, it's a place to bring their Northern friends when they visit. For boaters, it's a favorite stop for a burger and brew thanks to a handy dock. The extensive menu features 15 appetizers, including Buffalo shrimp, chicken wings and gator nuggets. Sandwiches and burgers are a sure bet. Got a big appetite? The smokehouse cooks baby back ribs and smoked chicken, served with salad and fries. ($)

GRILLSMITH, 2539 Countryside Blvd., Clearwater (in Countryside Square), (727) 726-6061; 1108 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa, (813) 250-3850. This casual restaurant features American food (the menu was created by Mise en Place's Marty Blitz) cooked on a fire - a gas grill for steaks, baby-back ribs, salmon and chicken with applewood smoked bacon. The eclectic menu also features grouper sandwiches, cheeseburgers, salads and dishes made with Creole sauces, Latin seasonings and Mediterranean mushrooms. ($$)

HATTRICKS, 107 S. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 225-4288. Business folks are leaving their brown bags at home these days and heading to Hattricks for lunch. Shepherd's pie is Hattricks' pride and joy. Served piping hot, it's chock-full of ground sirloin, carrots, mashed potatoes and Guinness Stout gravy, topped with sizzling cheese. ($)

LIME 'N COCONUT BAR AND GRILL, 118 1/2 Arfaras Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 945-0602. This bright, airy eatery is just around the corner from Tarpon Springs' famous sponge docks, Greek restaurants and bakeries. The kitchen shows off with a Key West-influenced menu featuring seafood, chicken, beef, pasta and sandwiches. For starters, try the plump mussels, drenched in a white-wine cream sauce. Entrees of note include Mojo Pork with a garlic citrus marinade and Lime 'N Coconut Chicken, a grilled breast finished in a brandy cream sauce with mushrooms. The paella, a Cuban version of the Spanish classic, is chock-full of shrimp, clams, mussels, conch and chicken. ($$)

MAGNOLIA GRILLE, 600 Alternate 19 N., Palm Harbor; (727) 789-5464. This small cafe in old Palm Harbor specializes in Southern cooking. The menu features all types of scrumptious dishes, including fried chicken and fried green tomatoes, along with lumpy mashed potatoes and collard greens. Made-from-scratch desserts include peach, cherry and apple cobbler, pecan pie and hot fudge cake. ($-$$)

MIDTOWN SUNDRIES, 200 First Ave. S. at Second Street South, downtown St. Petersburg; (727) 502-0222. This trendy yet casual restaurant and bar has plenty of billiard tables and lots of TV sets for sports fans. Start with Nachos Supreme with chicken or chili, a Grilled Chicken Quesadilla or grouper nuggets. Specialty sandwiches include Smothered Chicken, a juicy fillet topped with grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms and provolone cheese; French dip; Cajun chicken; and grilled tuna steak. If it's a full dinner you're after, you won't be disappointed in the entrees, from steak and ribs to seafood and pasta. ($)

THE OAKS BAR & GRILL, 108 S. Lithia Pinecrest Road, Brandon; (813) 685-5257. Kick back and enjoy steaks, seafood, sandwiches, salads and pub grub at this casual, tin-roofed eatery. Fans swirl above diners on the enclosed wrap-around porch, and the bar sits at the center of the large, rambling Key West-style house. The specialty is a half-pound grouper sandwich on Texas toast, served fried, blackened or grilled. Lighter appetites should try the tasty Caribbean chicken salad, topped with pineapple rings and the restaurant's own Caribbean sauce. ($)

PALM RESTAURANT, 205 WestShore Plaza, at West Shore and Kennedy boulevards, Tampa; (813) 849-7256. High-end steaks and seafood grace the menu at this upscale chain. Indulge in huge Nova Scotia lobsters, prime aged steaks, chops or Italian favorites such as Veal Marsala. All Palm locations are decorated with caricatures and photos, from local politicians to pop-culture icons. ($$$)

THE RACK, 1809 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 250-1595. A night at The Rack blends billiards with barbecue and pool cues with crab cakes. This quaint restaurant on Platt Street isn't a pool hall with grub but a classy kitchen that caters to players and gourmands. The owners adhere to the tapas mentality, appetizer portions and prices to match. Favorites include the Bank Shot, a generous portion of blackened chicken breast, bacon, spinach and mushrooms tossed in a very spicy tomato-cream sauce. Also consider the slow-roasted pork ribs, sliced beef tenderloin with five cheeses, and the Featherweight, a bowl of bow-tie pasta tossed with zucchini, squash, red peppers, asparagus, spinach, herbs, wine and olive oil. ($-$$)

SALT ROCK GRILL, 19325 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores; (727) 593-7625. Chef Tom Pritchard has found the formula for packing in the crowds. Giant steaks and seafood cooked over a wood-fired grill keeps them coming back. Order the Fire Roasted Lobster Tail or the Flair of the Grill (filet, pork, shrimp and lamb chops). Much of the seating (and the patio) offers a view of the Intracoastal Waterway. A dock offers space for those who visit by boat. ($$)

STONEWOOD TAVERN & GRILL, 17050 Palm Pointe Drive (in The Pointe at Tampa Palms), Tampa; (813) 978-0388. The menu at this bustling chain restaurant will please fans of seafood and juicy red meats. The plump New York Strip, filet mignon and other steaks are hand-cut and aged three weeks or more. Other finds are Pacific Cliffs Salmon, Pork Adirondack and Herb-Encrusted Lamb. Save room for dessert: Mint Chocolate Crepe (homemade crepe and ice cream), Florida Key lime pie with kiwi sauce and Creme Brulee Cheesecake guarantee happy endings. ($$)

STUMP'S SUPPER CLUB, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 226-2261. Part of this restaurant's draw appears to be its decor: Stump's tacky taste mirrors a 1970s Holiday Inn lounge. The owners share their sense of fun with a classless cornucopia of kitsch from flea markets and novelty shops. Much of the menu, however, tastes purdy darn good, grub that sticks to the gut without denting the wallet. Don't come here expecting haute cuisine. Stump's serves Southern supper, bodacious barbecue, fried (and otherwise) chicken, beef and fish. And, hey, the Southern Caviar is really pimiento cheese dip, so stuff your expectations in the cornbread and wash them down with a cold beer. ($-$$)

WATERCOLOUR STEAKHOUSE AND GRILLE, 1201 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 596-1100. This tastefully appointed space on the ground floor of the Marriott Suites on Sand Key focuses on a handful of seafood and beef dishes at the dinner hour, and is a welcome relief to the tourist fare along the beaches. Top choices are the 12-ounce Chilean Sea Bass, certified Black Angus filet mignon (aged 18 to 24 days), Sesame Crusted Tuna, and Cashew Encrusted Grouper. ($$-$$$)

WILD WING CAFE, 9210 Anderson Road, Tampa; (813) 890-9453. Boasting 33 different flavors, this place is almost like an ice cream shop for wing lovers. Indecisive diners can try the 25-piece Wild Wing Sampler Platter, which includes five different flavors in groups of five meaty wings each, or they can stop by during lunch for the all-you-can-eat buffet. Hardcore hotheads will want to go straight for the Braveheart wings - they'll make you glad Wild Wing offers washcloths in place of napkins; you'll need 'em to wipe the sweat off your brow. Ribs, wraps, soups and salads round out the menu. Try the outdoor deck, outfitted with a full bar, when the weather's nice. ($-$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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