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A Fresh Catch On Tampa Bay

By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 17, 2008

TAMPA - It's less than three weeks into the new year and any resolutions about weight loss are a ridiculous fantasy.

Blame the extra pounds on the newly renovated Oystercatchers at Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, one of the area's finer restaurants for fresh seafood, service and sunset ambience. Oystercatchers just emerged from a $4 million makeover, and natural stone, wood and earth tones lend visual harmony as the sun dips over Tampa Bay - a spectacular scene though panoramic windows.

On two recent visits we feasted exclusively on catches from the sea, and found the kitchen's wild and line-caught offerings to be nothing less than stellar. Chef de cuisine Kenny Hunsberger, a Tampa native, runs an elegant show and frames his dishes with flair.

The expanded dining room sports a clean, contemporary look with an open kitchen and small bar, and patrons flock to the multi-level deck outside.

Every table is strategically set to overlook the bay, and soft armrests add a nice touch to tastefully appointed booths. On both our visits, the wait staff spoiled us from appetizer through dessert.

We opened one night with a winner: the best calamari we've ever tasted. Served with a spicy ketchup, the meaty, luscious strips were so flavorful they nearly jumped off the table. Nor could we resist slurping up our bowl of red pepper bisque, its deep flavor enhanced by king crab meat and chive mascarpone. For sheer decadence, we ordered a delectable lobster tart gratin oozing with wild mushrooms and pink peppercorns.

We were far less impressed with the oyster bar; although fresh and creatively arranged on the plate, six Northeastern oysters for $18 is a bit of a stretch.

Any number of seafood entrees could be signature dishes here, and our vote goes to the pompano in parchment, the fish delicately steamed with wax peppers and lemon. We also applaud the simple but absolutely fresh yellowtail snapper - blackened, sauteed or wood-grilled - the subtle flavor of the fish graced by Key lime caper butter. As an a la carte side, we enjoyed a tantalizing nutmeg-cream spinach that made us look anew at this humble vegetable. Our order of large, succulent and nicely spiced sea scallops made for a satisfying meal by themselves.

The Seafood Mixed Grill is one of the kitchen's heartier choices, a deft combination of fish chunks and shellfish, fingerling potatoes and grilled vegetables married in a rouille sauce. Light appetites might try the jumbo lump crab cakes, chock-full of fresh meat and framed by mustard greens and papaya relish. The restaurant cooks up an aromatic "Simply Organic" entree, made with local snapper coated in a certified organic cashew nut crust, with root vegetables and tomato salsa.

If seafood isn't your thing, consider a homemade fettuccine with porcini mushrooms and Parmesan emulsion; braised New Zealand lamb shank complemented by parsnip puree; or an 8-ounce Hereford filet mignon.

Oystercatchers offers an in-depth wine list with a good variety by the glass. Service on our visits was professional, unobtrusive and well-versed in all aspects of the menu and preparation.

DINING REVIEW

Oystercatchers

BOTTOM LINE: Outstanding seafood and sunset views

WHERE: 2900 Bayport Drive (at the Grand Hyatt), Tampa

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner: 6 to 11 p.m. seven days a week

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $20 to $52

CALL: (813) 207-6815