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FEEDER'S DIGEST

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 18, 2008

Updated: 01/16/2008 10:22 pm

NEW AMERICAN/FUSION

ASHLEY STREET GRILLE, 200 N. Ashley Drive, downtown Tampa; (813) 226-4400. A riverfront view and nouvelle Floridian cuisine make this a strong contender in the downtown restaurant market. Located in the Sheraton Tampa Riverwalk Hotel, this attractive eatery simmers with culinary talent. The chef's signature appetizer is Lobster Strudel - shiitake mushrooms, boursin cheese and fresh lobster in phyllo dough with truffle bechamel sauce. A popular entree is Seafood St. Jacque - green lip mussels, sea scallops and sauteed shrimp in a bechamel sauce topped with piped potato. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ($$)

CHEAP, 309 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5878. Despite its name, Cheap is richly rewarding. This is the sort of hip spot you'd find in Greenwich Village or Portland, Maine, stopping in for a tapas-style bite and glass of Malbec before heading out to a late movie. This small, cozy place offers a tantalizing sampling of small-bite items prepared and presented with an understated, artistic flair. The menu features two columns - epulae (feast) and crudo (raw fish) - small portions that double as appetizers and entrees. Don't pass up the baked goat cheese drizzled with port wine reduction and a scattering of sliced tomatoes and sweet basil leaves. ($)

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

FETISHES, 6690 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 363-3700. The strip-center architecture redefines plain, but Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies, catering to diners who value intimacy. Favorite appetizers include the hearty cup of Corn and Crab Bisque, chunky with sweet bits of corn and crab; house specialty Maryland Style Crab Cakes, plump and meaty; and Mini Beef Roulettes stuffed with Asiago cheese and prosciutto. Of entrees, we enjoyed the Filet Mignon in a garlicky bechamel, Chicken & Crab Avonaise - chicken, crab, avocado and bearnaise sauce - and Crispy Roast Duckling with orange cumberland sauce. Reservations are a must. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. ($$-$$$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. ($$)

PALM COURT AT TRADEWINDS RESORT, 5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-6461, Ext. 2558. This 18-acre meandering hotel has a treasure of a courtside bistro. The menu has a sizable pasta section, including dishes such as tortellini with rock shrimp, asparagus and garlic cream, and seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams. ($$)

THE PEPPER MILL, 1575 S. Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater; (727) 449-2988. A good restaurant should be true to its name, so it stands to reason that The Pepper Mill offers a generous twist of the ground spice at every table. The popular eatery has been catering to the culinary whims of customers for nearly 20 years, doing its best to please the palate as well as the wallet. The restaurant reaches high with its upscale menu but relaxes with a homey atmosphere, and the balance seems to appeal to a throng of customers. The menu ranges from cedar plank Chilean salmon to pork osso buco. ($$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki "Hawaiian Style" Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's "Original" Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

RUSTY'S BISTRO, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611. Chef John Harris brings to the table a palate rich in world cuisines, mixing tastes and textures from Florida, France, the Caribbean, the Southwest and the Pacific Rim. Rusty's also offers a bountiful salad bar crammed to the hilt with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Not to be missed is the chef's trademark corn soup with a dollop of salsa; a Caesar served inside a decadent fried sheet of Parmesan cheese molded into an edible bowl; shredded duck ravioli; sea bass with fennel, lentils and leeks; and the Lolly Pop Pork Chop with balsamic demi-glace ($$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Chef Jeannie Pierola has a knack for peppering Asian, Latin-American and Mediterranean ingredients into a fusion feast she calls One World Cuisine. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. ($$-$$$)

SIGN OF THE MERMAID, 9707 Gulf Drive, Anna Maria Island; (941) 778-9399. If we needed just one more reason to quit the job and spend eternity grazing on Anna Maria, this restaurant could do it. Snazzy appetizers - including Grilled Quail, Charred Rare Tuna, Escargot Fritters, Spanakopita, Hummus and Baba Ganoush, Baked Brie with Honeyed Walnuts - set the stage for a first-class production of entrees. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. Co-owner David Chapdelaine spent some time working with the Pleasant Peasant chain in Atlanta, and he learned well. Now he has teamed up with his wife, Julie, and chef Nui Thanasioangkuo to bring the experience to Tampa. The result is 220 East, a fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. The Hot Stickers are excellent. Also try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

THE VIEW AT CK's, top of the Marriott hotel, Tampa International Airport; (813) 878-6500. It takes 75 minutes for the revolving restaurant to swirl 360 degrees - enough time to enjoy dinner and a spectacular view of Tampa and the bay. The menu offers a short list of meats, salads, seafood and sweets, all served in a unique centrifugal setting. Options include the pan-roasted, Shiraz-infused Moulard duck breast, Cajun sea bass, USDA prime steaks, and a large sushi and sashimi menu. ($$-$$$)

Z GRILLE, 269 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 896-3101. Zack and Jennifer Gross hark from Southern California and bring their tastes and techniques to the Z Grille on Central Avenue, a nice addition to downtown's growing restaurant culture. An enticing beer list and shorts-casual atmosphere draws a lazy crowd from off the street, as well as the hungry from a neighboring cigar bar. Consider the Pork Filled Flautas, Blackened Grilled Shrimp Skewers, Towering Tostada, Z Grille Infused Chicken, and Dry Rubbed Ribeye. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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