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A Modern Twist On Authentic Greek

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By MARY PATRICK, Tribune correspondent

Published: January 24, 2008

TAMPA - For a Greek restaurant in a Northdale strip mall, Aphrodite's boasts an astonishingly modern look.

With its dark interior bathed in hues of navy, black and gray, sleek glass-block bar and young, friendly, black-clad servers, it's far from the loud plate-breaking, opa-screaming, cheese-flaming-everywhere-you-look environment often associated with Greek restaurants.

Only when the open kitchen steams up with multiple orders of Souvlaki are we reminded of the Hellenic cuisine that's coming.

And speaking of steaming, every Greek meal should begin with Saganaki, a dish of flaming kasseri cheese that's a delight to both see and savor. We also enjoyed the trio of spreads served with pita wedges, which features a thick, creamy hummus (a fresh chickpea spread) that's light on tahini and heavy on garlic and lemon, tzatziki (diced cucumbers and garlic in a thick yogurt) and eggplant coponata, a thick spread of mashed eggplant loaded with spices and a hint of orange zest. Another good starter is the spicy calamari, fried and served with roasted garlic and saffron aioli.

For a real taste of Greece, order the Horiatiki, or Greek country salad. This blend of fresh tomato, cucumber, green pepper, onion, kalamata olives, feta cheese, pepperoncini and Greek vinaigrette dressing contains no lettuce or potato salad. It's the real deal, a basic salad that accompanies almost every meal in Greece. A classic romaine Caesar salad comes as either a side or a meal if you add chicken or shrimp.

Traditional Greek entrees abound, including Pastitsio, a sort of Greek lasagna, and Mousaka, a hearty dish of layered eggplant, potato and seasoned ground meat topped with a light tomato sauce and finished with bechamel. The cinnamon in the ground meat combined with the nutmeg-laced bechamel gave this comfort food a complex flavor, and the large portion served two meals. The Souvlaki comes with either pork tenderloin or chicken grilled on skewers with peppers and onions.

The menu also offers entrees that embrace "an eclectic American twist on classic dishes from across the Mediterranean region." These include grilled grouper with an apricot glaze and seafood bouillabaisse, featuring pan-seared fish and shellfish served in a roasted fennel broth over a risotto cake. The pan-seared, melt-in-your-mouth beef tips with roasted pine nuts and smoked paprika oil over homemade hummus was palate-pleasing but could have used a little more meat.

Lamb lovers have many choices, including an oven-roasted lamb shank served with caramelized shallots, Greek potatoes and a rosemary and red wine demi-glace, and oven-roasted New Zealand rack of lamb served with a blackberry pinot noir reduction.

For dessert, we recommend the baklava, which we found sweet and flaky.

The restaurant has a full bar and decent wine list with many Greek and domestic selections by the glass. Also available are 14 original specialty martinis named after the Greek gods and priced at $12.

DINING REVIEW

Aphrodite's Mediterranean Cuisine and Taverna

BOTTOM LINE: Traditional Greek food in a modern setting.

WHERE: 15463 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $14 to $32

CALL: (813) 269-3200

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@ fridayextra.com.

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