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Island Bistro A Welcome Addition

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By KURT LOFT, The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 31, 2008

DAVIS ISLANDS - To refer to the corner of East Davis Boulevard and Biscayne Avenue as haunted might be a bit over the top, but you've got to wonder.

More restaurants have come and gone here than just about anywhere around town, and culinary investigations all point to a ghost living in the 83-year-old building.

Maybe it didn't care for the grub at Freid's Center Stage Deli, Native Seafood, Mojo, The Fountain Grill, Pipo's Latin Cafe or, more recently, Caprice Bistro. Over the years, they all vanished, depriving island residents of another neighborhood eatery with outdoor dining by a trickling fountain.

Well, Bryce Whittlesey doesn't scare so easily. After percolating for a few months, his Chez Bryce restaurant appears to be the real deal.

Whittlesey brings plenty of experience to the table, including stints in New York and Paris, along with common sense: "We're in this for the long haul," he says. "We studied the market carefully."

His creation is a rustic country French bistro with Mediterranean influences, an idea visually enhanced by the sprawling corner courtyard. Inside, diners can enjoy cozy tables in an atmosphere of soft tones, a sushi-style bar with champagne and oysters on ice, and drinks at an open-air bar.

At this time of year, it's hard to stay indoors for long, and on our visits we enjoyed dinners at fountain-side tables. Oddly, the restaurant has yet to develop a weeknight crowd, at least during early evenings. It shouldn't take long for islanders to discover the kitchen's enticing European fare, and the creative combinations of flavors, textures and colors on each plate.

We opened one night with a plate of artisan farm cheese, rich and velvety portions complemented by baby greens and grilled baguettes. Chorizo, tomato confit and a hint of garlic jazz up the New Zealand cockle clams, which are carefully rinsed to remove their grittiness. The kitchen dresses up its grilled foie gras au torchon with kumquat marmalade and lemon - a nice touch. Our only disappointment was the Mediterranean cod beignets with fire roasted pepper aioli, which were curiously bland.

Soups, salads and light-as-air pizzas can serve as a tapaslike dinner with wine, such as the Normandie pizza with chevre, smoked salmon and aromatic fennel. Anyone fond of Serrano ham should consider the Pays Basque pizza with roasted peppers.

We enjoyed a hearty, fresh-tasting bowl of parsnip soup, and the heady taste of goat cheese and shaved fennel add luscious balance to the blood orange arugula salad.

A favorite dish is the black truffle risotto and a large Parmesan tuile (a flat-pressed cookie), and we devoured our rotisserie pork with fresh baby glazed vegetables and pearl onions, the moist meat fork-tender and bathed in a rich reduction. We found some gristle in the meat, but nothing to lose sleep over.

Our crispy skinned duck breast also was a mouthwatering treat, its gamey fat enhanced by honey glazed turnips and oven-dried grapes. The Parmesan potato gnocchi goes well with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, as do the sweet pan-seared diver scallops with candied endive. However, three scallops for $25 seems skimpy.

The restaurant offers a decent wine list with some good values in the $30-to-$40 range, although it wouldn't hurt to pour a sturdy, inexpensive house wine by the glass to encourage local traffic after work. You can bring your own bottle, but the $20 corkage fee is, in our view, excessive.

Service on our visits was courteous, but the young women were green as grass, and often disappeared for long periods even on slow nights. These glitches aside, Chez Bryce is a welcome addition to a hungry neighborhood.

DINING REVIEW

Chez Bryce

BOTTOM LINE: A Mediterranean delight on Davis Islands

WHERE: 238 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, with a Sunday brunch at 11 a.m.; dinner, 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; closed Monday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $10 to $27

CALL: (813) 258-8100

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Kurt Loft can be reached at (813) 259-7570 or kloft@tampatrib.com.

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