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The Island Of Grenada: Spice and Everything Nice

Photo by TOM WUCKOVICH

Local boats line the beach at Grande Anse in anticipation of the annual races.

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By TOM WUCKOVICH

Special to TBO.com

Published: July 7, 2008

The island of Grenada is a feast for the senses - all the senses - but one could easily argue that the sense of smell might be the most pleasurable here, even though the beauty of this southernmost Windward Island will snatch your breath away.

Drifting on gentle tropical breezes are the distinctive scents of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and ginger, creating the island's appropriate designation as "The Isle of Spice." There are, in fact, more spices here per square mile than any other place on earth. Grenada supplies one-third of the world's nutmeg, while contributing significantly to the export of cloves, cinnamon, mace, cocoa, ginger and turmeric.

The sweet aroma of these spices is especially delightful during market day in St. George's, the colorful capital of Grenada. Throngs of locals and tourists flock to the marketplace on Saturdays to socialize, shop for produce and handicrafts and sample offerings of island foods laced with the various spices. It's also sheer pleasure to wander the streets and alleyways to admire the colonial architecture with its British and French influence as well as marvel at the famous "Carenage," the wharf area that runs along the waterfront.

The buildings on the Carenage boast a pink cast attributed to their construction using pink fish scale tiles. In the glow of the sunset, these structures dazzle when bathed in the warm evening rays. Many yachts and cruise ships lay anchor here, drawn to the island because of its beauty and vast array of vacation amenities. Grenada has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, bays and coves that harbor incredible marine life beneath its azure colored waters, and rain forests and parks that cover virtually one-sixth of the island's land mass.

Within these tranquil sanctuaries are a plethora of wildlife and plant life, gorgeous waterfalls and clear, limpid pools that present an ideal location for a brief respite from the everyday rigors of urban life. Perhaps the best-known falls are Annendale, which are easily accessible, and Concord, composed of three very picturesque waterfalls ideally suited for swimming or simply for admiring.

Grenada is divided into six parishes, or districts. They include St. George, St. Mark, St. John, St. Patrick, St. Andrews and St. David. Traveling the length and breadth of the island is a simple matter since Grenada only measures 21 miles long by 12 miles wide. The roads are very good, including a major highway that circles the whole of Grenada.

Points of interest are Carib's Leap, north of the town of Sauteurs, where in 1651, Carib Indians jumped to their death rather than surrender to the French colonists. The fortresses of Fort Frederick, Fort Matthew and Fort George, now a prison where Maurice Bishop and part of his cabinet were executed by a faction of the People's Revolutionary Government. The revolution eventually prompted the intervention by the United States and the invasion of 1982 that restored the democratic government.

The Grenada National Museum in St. George's offers a fine collection of objects and artifacts of the island's history and culture. Be sure and tour the River Antoine Rum Distillery, which has changed little since the 1800s, and is the oldest functioning water-propelled distillery in the Caribbean.

Another historical remnant of Grenada's past is the Dougaldston Spice Estate, where most of the spices are grown and processed for distribution throughout the island. The largest nutmeg processing plants are at Gouyave and Grenville, and tours here cost very little. Belmont Estate in St. Patrick parish possesses a wealth of cultural and historic heritage. This 300-year-old plantation still produces coffee, cotton, sugar cane, cocoa, nutmeg and bananas.

The main crops of nutmeg and cocoa are still processed the traditional way, resulting in world-class quality beans. The estate also gives visitors the opportunity to experience the excitement and appeal of traditional Grenadian country living through tours and plantation dining. You can tease your palate with "cocoa tea" and understand why cocoa is called the "food of the gods."

As you experience Grenada, you can't help but be impressed by the beaches. Of particular note is Grand Anse beach, which sweeps around a bay south of St. George's. This mile of fine white sand draws sun worshippers as well as water sports enthusiasts. Grenadians are renowned for their boating skills, and each year in April, there are local boat races on Grand Anse that signal party time on the island. There are plenty of other water activities, such as snorkeling and scuba diving or fishing.

Accommodation choices in Grenada run the gamut-from small guesthouses to lavish resorts to luxurious villas. Your selections are only limited by your imagination - and taste!

Choose from such distinct properties as Bel Air Plantation, a collection of 11 one- and two-bedroom elegantly appointed cottages assembled on a hillside overlooking St. David's Harbour, or Blue Orchid Hotel, just two minutes from Grand Anse beach, LaSource is a premier, all-inclusive beachfront resort with a comprehensive program of body treatments. Whichever one you pick, it will definitely add a bit of spice to your vacation.

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