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The Stew

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By JEFF HOUCK

The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 9, 2008

GEARING UP FOR BOCUSE

For all the ground American chefs have made up in the past two decades in an effort to establish cuisine worthy of mention alongside their European counterparts, they still have never won the Bocuse d'Or worldwide cooking competition. In fact, U.S. teams have never placed better than sixth in what has been described as a culinary Olympics.

The contest takes place every two years in Lyon, France. And, yes, the French won last year.

To remedy the U.S.'s poor showing, French chef Paul Bocuse, who started the competition two decades ago, has asked chefs Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud to take leadership roles in fielding the American team.

Keller, whose The French Laundry north of San Francisco is considered among the best restaurants in the country, will be president of the American team. Boulud, who owns numerous acclaimed restaurants, will be honorary president of the contest, which takes place Jan. 28 and 29. Keller is so serious about improving the American team that he is building a training lab next to The French Laundry for the teams.

Eight teams will be selected later this month to attend an elimination contest in September at the Epcot International Wine & Food Festival in Orlando. Chefs will have five hours to prepare the types of dishes they'd be cooking in Lyon: cod, lobster and beef tenderloin, with three garnishes.

When I get information about tickets to the event, I'll pass it along.

SPIKE'S NEW JOINT: GOOD STUFF

Former Clearwater Beach resident Spike Mendelsohn, who came within a hair of making the finals of Bravo's "Top Chef: Chicago" series, opened a new restaurant last weekend in Washington, D.C. I was able to press D.C. blogger Jacqueline Dupree into service. It helped that she lived in the neighborhood. It also helped that we went to college together.

She reports:

"Spike picked an interesting spot for his burger joint, on a two-block stretch of small local restaurants just a few blocks from the U.S. Capitol, where, no doubt, House and Senate workers will be thrilled to have easy access to burgers and fries that are above and beyond typical fast-food fare, especially the $10 'Lunch Bag' of a burger, fries and soda that will be available daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

"It's not a large space, so the counter and grill are on the main floor and the seating is upstairs in a loft space, along with some sidewalk tables out front. A huge 'Good Stuff' cowbell hangs just inside the entry. (Paging Christopher Walken.)

"Since this was a 'preview' night, they were still working out a few kinks, according to Spike's sister Mich. (Signs in the window even said 'Staff in Training, Be Gentle.') There was a big crush of invited guests right at the beginning, waiting to get to the front of the line. Even so, I didn't have to wait more than five minutes once I ordered. Spike was up front handing out the food, but was doing a lot of good-natured ribbing of the cooks to keep the orders flowing.

"The fresh ingredients - down to the definitely-not-Heinz ketchup - are a big part of Good Stuff's profile, and the thin, loosely packed burgers do have the backyard/homemade feel that Spike mentions on the large welcome sign at the entrance. The buttery buns are soft but hold up well to the pile of ingredients, including the chipotle mayo. He was serving his Village Fries, a variation on what's known in these parts as 'boardwalk fries,' served in a cup and seasoned with rosemary, thyme and pepper.

"They weren't serving the entire menu, so I'm still looking forward to trying the Vidalia onion rings, Uncle D's chili and, of course, the shakes, cones, floats and sundaes from the ice cream menu.

"The response to the preview was so big that they ran it over two nights, and I imagine Spike will be seeing good-sized crowds when the eatery opens for real next week."

FOOD HEADLINE OF THE WEEK

"How Do You Make the World's Largest Porkburger?"

From the July 2008 issue of Kansas City BullSheet, the monthly publication of the Kansas City Barbeque Society. The porkburger in question was cooked in Des Moines, Iowa, weighed 100 pounds and was 36 inches across. Ray "Dr. BBQ" Lampe of Lakeland helped garnish the burger.

CAN WWW.START POURINGNOW.COM BE FAR BEHIND?

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar now offers summaries of The Fleming's 100 list of wines by the glass for cellphones. Go online to m.flemings100.com.

VENDING MACHINE ANTICS

Last week, I asked readers to share their tales about the food stocked in their company's "Wheel O' Death" vending machines.

Reader Pat Vassar e-mailed a story about a co-worker and a cup of break-room hot chocolate.

"Initially, he thought the chocolate had not melted properly. It turns out the clumps sitting on top were ants! That machine bit the dust shortly thereafter. We had to wait quite a while for management to be willing to get a new coffee machine."

Can you top that? E-mail me at jhouck@tampatrib.com.

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