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Great Tastes Come In All Sizes

Tribune photo by GREG FIGHT

Vizcaya's menu features 40-plus kinds of tapas, a dozen entrees, seven varieties of paella and an extensive offering of Spanish wines.

By MARY PATRICK

Tribune Correspondent

Published: July 10, 2008

Updated: 07/14/2008 03:11 pm

TAMPA - Felix Piedra roamed from table to table in the little restaurant, chatting with the patrons about food and offering alternatives if they couldn't find what they wanted on the menu. He seemed a happy man. You would be, too, if you could cook like him.

Piedra is owner and chef of Vizcaya, a Spanish restaurant and tapas bar nestled under oaks in Benttree Plaza, on the western edge of original Carrollwood.

On a recent visit, the gregarious chef was in fine form, visiting all the occupied tables among the 15 inside the restaurant (another half-dozen are outside). He not only talked food, he even picked up a child's dropped napkin and then brought her another one.

Thankfully, the food was in fine form as well.

Vizcaya's menu features 40-plus kinds of tapas, which are appetizer-sized portions. The idea is to eat a little of many dishes and to share with your companions. There are also a dozen entrees, seven varieties of paella and an extensive offering of Spanish wines.

However, the best place to start is the sangria. It's made of fresh fruits caramelized in brown sugar and mixed with a reduction of sweet sherries and muscatel wine, then served with freshly squeezed juice and Rioja wine. It's even better than it sounds.

The tapas menu is as extensive as it is delicious. Having selected from the cold tapas menu on previous occasions - the charcuteria Espanola (assorted cold cuts) and mozzarella con tomate are particular favorites - we picked from the hot tapas menu this visit.

The calamares fritos (fried calamari) came lightly breaded and not too chewy, the latter being the fate of all badly prepared calamari. This was near perfection, and the tangy white sauce served with it added to the experience.

Richer still was the Merluzita Rellena, a mild white fish stuffed with lobster and topped with a seafood bisque. The combination proved tasty, and the sauce was full-bodied and creamy.

The large Gulf shrimps, sauteed with Serrano ham and wild mushrooms, tasted fresh, like all the seafood on the menu.

This is but a small sample of the tapas menu. It covers a large range, from cod fish to "rabo de toro" (oxtails, Andalusian style) to escargot to grilled quails.

For an entree, we choose the Paella de Mariscos, which features scallops, mussels on the half shell, calamari, shrimp and, as the centerpiece, lobster. All of this came served over a bed of yellow rice and peas. Although Vizcaya specializes in finely tuned small dishes, the paella is a generous portion enough for two.

We saved a bit of room for tiramisu and flan. The flan is good but won't change your mind about flan if you don't like it. The tiramisu - lady fingers dipped in coffee and covered in cream - will convert even the most ardent tiramisu hater (if such people exist).

Vizcaya is another hidden gem in Carrollwood, with a talented and friendly chef, a charming dining room, an attentive wait staff and food that shows a remarkable attention to detail.

DINING REVIEW

Vizcaya

BOTTOM LINE: Fresh Spanish fare in a charming setting

WHERE: 10905 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: $6 to $29

CALL: (813) 968-7400