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The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 11, 2008

ITALIAN

ALBERTO'S ITALIAN GRILLE AND BAR, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 814-2272. This strip plaza restaurant offers a fine twist on traditional Southern Italian fare. From bruschetta to pasta dishes made with spicy pink sauce, the menu features lots of creative dishes. Meat lovers will enjoy the Filet Alberto and the ossobuco. Other standouts include Penne Puttanesca, a salty pasta with olives, capers and anchovies, and Shrimp Richelle. ($)

ALFANO'S, 1702 Clearwater-Largo Road, Clearwater; (727) 584-2125. Owned and operated by the Alfano family since 1984, this restaurant offers a bit of European flair along the bustle of Clearwater-Largo Road. Dining rooms are quiet and posh - modeled after the grand hotel lobbies of Italy - and servers work each table with crisp efficiency. Pasta dishes are a must, such as a simple but rich rigatoni with meat sauce or the popular Rigatoni alla Vodka, bathed in a heavy cream sauce with prosciutto, mushroom and hot red pepper. Adventurous diners should consider the Celeste Abacchio, an imported rack of lamb cut and grilled in the Roman style of robust herbal flavors. ($$-$$$)

ANTONIO'S PASTA GRILLE, 11401 N. 56th St., Suite 23, Temple Terrace, (813) 914-8899 (check the telephone book for other locations). This is a friendly place that falls between casual and upscale. Try the delightful pasta primavera, a beautiful display of steamed vegetables with a creamy lemon herb sauce; or Tortellini Con Prosciutto, with mushrooms, peas and ham smothered in a Parmesan cheese sauce. The menu also features steaks, lamb, veal and pizza. Portions are huge. ($)

ARMANI'S, Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa; (813) 207-6800. One of the finest restaurants on Florida's west coast. Overlooking Old Tampa Bay and Tampa International Airport, Armani's offers twin views of sunset and takeoff, plus crack professional waiters and fancy linens. Along with delectable pastas and veal, Armani's is a reliable source for fresh seafood. Service is stellar and the food isn't far behind. It's easy to go broke here, but not necessary. For an evening of frills, plan on $130 for two. ($$$)

BASTA'S RISTORANTE, 1625 Fourth St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-7880. Long a favorite quiet dining spot, the food and service are by no means understated at this fine restaurant. The large menu ranges from dressed-up pastas, most prepared Northern style, to an array of filets and steaks, sauteed in flavorful sauces. Lots of tableside flambe dishes as well. ($$$)

BELLA BRAVA, 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-5515. This trendy, double-decker restaurant hit its stride from the onset with its posh interior, strong wine list and imaginative Italian menu. We applaud the dozen cracker-thin pizzas, loaded with flavor and generous chunks of vegetable, meat or seafood. Deliriously rich pastas are staples, and favorites include veal ravioli, Petto di Pollo alla Fiorentina, and spicy Scampi alla Bella Brava. ($$)

BELLINI, 487 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5449. Owners Ciro and Clarita Mancini hail from Naples, Italy, and insist on importing many of their ingredients. Pastas taste fresh and absorb their opulent tomato and cream sauces; velvety cheeses enhance whatever they touch; the kitchen excels at a creative blend of spices, herbs and exquisite olive oils; and entrees are artfully framed on warm plates. Weenjoyed a luscious Ravioli d'Aragosta, the pasta squares stuffed with Maine lobster meat and served with shrimp, scallops and chives swimming in a red cream sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAFE CIBO, 8697 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 579-1570. The owners of this comfortable eatery do Italian food right, from the antipasti to the dolci. For entrees, you'll find a wide variety of reasonably priced Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients. Pasta selections include penne with portobello mushrooms, gnocchi with ricotta and chicken-stuffed ravioli. The shrimp scampi comes in a big bowl of al dente linguine swirled with white wine, lemon butter and garlic. A standout entree is Veal Sorrentino, a lightly breaded fillet of veal (or chicken, if you prefer) topped with eggplant that's sealed with marinara and melted mozzarella. Finish it all off with a fluffy piece of tiramisu. ($)

CAFFE AMARETTO, 5915 Memorial Highway, Tampa; (813) 885-4700. When it first opened in the early '90s, this affordable but elegant Italian restaurant boasted a kitchen of magicians, and fortunately little has changed. Rich sauces, judicious use of herbs and creative techniques keep the locals coming back. A seafood favorite is the Cernia Livornese, a fresh filet of grouper with black olives, onions, capers and tomato sauce. ($$)

CAFFE PARADISO, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622. Tucked into St. Croix Plaza on south MacDill Avenue, Caffe Paradiso thrives off local appetites and is happy to customize the diner's order. Owner Paolo Tini offers an excellent minestrone soup and salads, a rich-tasting Ossobuco alla Milanese and Pasticcio di Lasagna. Consider the fish specials. ($$-$$$)

CRISTINO'S COAL OVEN PIZZA, 1101 S. Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater; (727) 443-4900. Anyone who cranks out more than a hundred pizzas on a Friday night is doing their part to keep the community well-fed. Anyone who cooks them the way they do at Cristino's deserves a traditional Neapolitan toast. This little gem of a restaurant specializes in thin-crust pizzas cooked in a coal-fired oven, along with Pollo Contadina, Fusilli Bolognese and a delicious Risotto Primavera. ($)

DONATELLO, 232 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 875-6660. Donatello is synonymous with class. When the maitre d' snaps his fingers, napkins fly, water glasses fill and menus unfold. Mechanics between kitchen and table are as smooth as the sauces that grace the pastas. Entrees include a splendid veal chop sauteed in brandy, mushroom and creme sauce. The avocado appetizer delights with its accompaniment of tender, fresh, butterflied shrimp and cream sauce. ($$$)

GUS' CAFE, 3871 Northdale Blvd., Tampa; (813) 960-4877. The menu at this homey restaurant is heavy on the Italian standards: lasagna, manicotti, spaghetti, linguine, fettuccine and pizza. Special dishes such as Chicken Parmigiana and Veal Saltimbocca also are available, in addition to a handful of Spanish specialties. ($)

IL TERRAZZO, 700 S. Florida Ave. (inside the Tampa Marriott Waterside), downtown Tampa; (813) 204-6343. Enjoy a relaxing meal at this fine dining restaurant overlooking Garrison Channel. Northern Italian favorites include grilled chicken paillard, gnocchi with roasted red pepper sauce, fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp, and stuffed veal chops. ($$)

LAURO RISTORANTE, 3915 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 281-2100. Locals who love authentic Italian have worn a path through the door of Lauro Ristorante in south Tampa, where we always leave lingering in garlic and a belt hole larger. Consider the Petto di Pollo Parmigiana, a large double breast densely packed with cheese, breaded and sauteed in butter and spices. Don't pass up the sauteed Dover Sole, a 16-ounce fillet topped with capers and lemon butter and filleted tableside. Pasta dishes are a staple here, filling and framed in lavish cream, tomato or wine sauces. The Penne alla Vodka is tossed with onions and prosciutto, and rich homemade potato dumplings and the sweet flavor of basil spark the Gnocchi Sorrentina. ($$-$$$)

LA TERRAZZA, 1727 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-1326. Luigi is a regular face on Seventh Avenue, greeting anyone who strolls by and enticing them to dine in his attractive little restaurant in the heart of Ybor. Order the Linguine al Pesto - the melding of pine nuts, fresh basil leaves, garlic and olive oil will inundate the senses. Also of note are the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and Spaghetti allo Scoglio with fresh clams, scallops, shrimp and mussels bathed in white wine. ($$)

TIMPANO ITALIAN CHOPHOUSE, 1610 W. Swann Ave. Tampa; (813) 254-5870. This hip Hyde Park restaurant is a great place for people-watching. Enjoy the show while listening to live music and sipping one of Timpano's signature martinis. Savvy regulars kick-start the appetite with an oyster or Spicy Tuna Shooter from the raw bar. Dinner entrees are simple and straightforward, such as a Kobe Double Bone Pork Chop, Dry Aged Hand Cut Filet and an Organic Grain Fed Veal Chop. Good bets include Seafood Cioppino, spaghetti topped with a lobster broth loaded with fish, shrimp, calamari and mussels; and Grilled Salmon with mustard cream sauce, paired with marinated artichokes and spinach. ($$$)

VILLA GALLACE, 109 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-0200. This eatery is a popular beach destination, with a deck that overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway. The restaurant offers a hearty menu of Italian favorites. Good service keeps the locals coming back for more than a dozen freddi and caldi antipasti, should your tastes run hot and cold, and hefty chicken, pasta and seafood entrees. Try the Fileto Diane, Veal Rollatini or Tortellini Alla Panna. ($$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip a

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