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Bistro Exhibits Culinary Art

Tribune photo by CHRIS URSO

The menu at Green Springs Bistro is as eclectic and artful as the restaurant itself, but shows influences of chef and co-owner Paul Kapsalis' Greek heritage.

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By JAMIE PILARCZYK

The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 24, 2008

SAFETY HARBOR - Serendipitously placed a block off Main Street, Green Springs Bistro is a perfect slice of Safety Harbor charm. From the bright interior colors to the art spilling onto the lawn, the laid-back atmosphere and live music makes this a dining experience that's about more than just food.

It's about art - in the dress-up cuisine, in the local musician strumming his guitar, in the tabletops painted by Green Springs staff and Safety Harbor artists. It's the perfect place to treat out-of-town guests with its Gulf Coast dishes and lunch menu offering everything from pesto-seared jumbo shrimp and scallop risotto to a selection of sandwiches including a bison burger.

The menu speaks to chef and co-owner Paul Kapsalis' Greek heritage with such items as spanikopita and the flaming cheese dish, saganaki. Co-owner Kris Kubik brings her family's Polish hospitality to the table with a revolving menu of desserts.

Green Springs, the name of Safety Harbor in the 1850s, is set in a 1930s wood-frame house. Stepping inside, the fireplace is a welcoming gesture. My family and I waited a bit to be seen by the hostess, but it gave us time to wander through the jungle- and beach-themed rooms with complementing murals. Sandwiched in the middle of the restaurant is the bar, set apart by a blue and green glass stone countertop.

We chose to sit in the front dining room with a view of the sky blue Plumbago blooming outside the windows. After peering over the wine list and the recommended house sangria, and pondering the state of my personal economy, I went for the less-pricy beer choices which start around $2.50 a glass.

Based on the waiter's suggestion, we started with a trio of appetizers beginning with gumbo. With a dark, surprisingly thick roux filled with okra and chunks of handmade sausage from a neighborhood shop, the saltiness made the cup a good choice to share.

The warm artichoke spread came in what to our hungry eyes seemed to be a shot glass-sized souffle dish. The serving size was disappointing given its buttery flavor, as were the toasted bread slices, which were too dry to bother dipping.

Last up was the blue crab stuffed portobello. The mushroom cap gave a meaty texture to the crab cake, but lacked a signature flavor.

Our entrees, on the other hand, made up for the lackluster start.

The wintry walnut-crusted chicken offered a perfect proportion of nutty seasoning with each bite. It was complemented by a mixed-green salad with a pineapple and poppy seed dressing, mashed red potatoes and sweetly grilled carrots, onions and snap peas.

The pecan-crusted black grouper melted in our mouths and my favorite, the wild mushroom ravioli, had an addictive white wine and goat cheese sauce that I almost licked off the plate.

I said almost.

Since the menu warned we'd regret passing up the house dessert - Kubik's signature Black 'n Blue Cobbler - we had to order it. And there would be no passing up the multi-layered, dark chocolate cake. Both were satisfyingly rich and worth every calorie.

Green Springs' atmosphere is half the reason to walk through the door. Its attention to detail on main dishes and desserts is the reason to return.

DINING REVIEW

Green Springs Bistro

BOTTOM LINE: Gourmet twist on Gulf Coast dishes

WHERE: 156 Fourth Ave. N., Safety Harbor

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; dinner: 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard and Visa

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Lunch: $6.75 to $10.75; dinner: $8.50 to $25.50

CALL: (727) 669-6762

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Jamie Pilarczyk can be reached at (813) 259-7661 or jpilarczyk@tampatrib.com.

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