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FEEDER'S DIGEST

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 25, 2008

FRENCH

CAFE LARGO, 12551 Indian Rocks Road, Largo; (727) 596-6282. Cafe Largo stands out for its inspired kitchen and presentation, plus personal service from a friendly staff. Strong entree choices include veal scallopini, rare beef tenderloin and rack of lamb with three complementary sauces; and veal kidney flambe with cognac and Dijon mustard. Don't leave without trying the cafe's trademark souffles au choix, made with orange liqueur, chocolate, Frangelico and fruit. ($$)

LA COTE BASQUE WINEHOUSE, 3104 S. Beach Blvd., Gulfport; (727) 321-6888. Cozy place to go for traditional country French fare and quiet conversation. From French onion soup to chocolate mousse, the menu focuses on old-style cooking. Duck, scampi, lamb chops and veal are among the entree choices. ($)

LE BOUCHON, 796 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-9777. Casual and unpretentious, this one-room restaurant feels like a neighborhood diner in Provence, where the locals come to digest whatever the chef deems fitting and fresh that day. Recommended are the crepes, country pizzas, Tournedo Poivre Vert and Roasted Duck Breast. Also consider the wine dinners. ($$-$$$)

L'EDEN, 500 N. Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 221-4795. We applaud this little French gem, where quaint dinners unfold on weekends and creative lunches during the week. Owners Gerard and Anne Marie Jamgotchian hail from Marseille, France, and their skills with la cuisine du monde is evident in most every bite. Although steeped in traditional French ingredients and techniques, the menu follows a nouvelle style by eschewing rich and heavy sauces for herbal bases and healthful broths made by reducing rather than thickening. ($)

PUBS

FLANAGAN'S IRISH PUB, 465 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 736-4994. This casual eatery features traditional pub grub such as bangers and mash (pork sausage and mashed potatoes), fish and chips and shepherd's pie. Appetizers include Chicken Curry Fries and a Sampler Platter with potato skins, stuffed clams, chicken strips and Irish sausage rolls. You'll also find imported ales on draft and live Irish folk entertainment. ($)

FOUR GREEN FIELDS, 205 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444. This quaint, thatched-roof Irish pub has a homey atmosphere that attracts a cast of regulars. The food is potato simple and unassuming, the people friendly and the music always cheerful. The restaurant's name symbolizes the four provinces of Ireland - Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Munster. The key here is what flows on tap, what we call the Holy Trinity of Froth - 30-weight Guinness, Harp Lager and Bass Ale, among other excellent brews. ($)

MACDINTON'S, 405 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8999. Beef stew simmering in vegetables and a rich broth of Guinness Stout is enough to bring the Irish out of anyone, and it's a staple here. But this isn't just pub grub. The kitchen cooks up Blackened Tuna sprinkled with Cajun spices and placed over vegetable couscous and a relish of pineapple and lime; herb-scented New Zealand Roast Rack of Lamb over spinach and mashed potatoes; a seared Breast of Muscovy Duck; and Gaelic Angus Sirloin with turnip puree and an Irish Whiskey mushroom sauce. ($)

MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMEN, 4115 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037. Traditional pub fare and a good beer list share space with an upscale fusion menu with Indian and Asian accents at this south Tampa institution. Dinner specials aren't cheap, but at least you don't have to dress up at this casual spot, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. The long list of exotic side dishes makes Mad Dogs a good choice for healthful snacking, too. ($-$$$)

TAMPA BAY BREWING COMPANY, Centro Ybor, 1600 E. Eighth Ave., Tampa; (813) 247-1422. Handcrafted beer is the big draw here, from pale and amber ales to a dark, rich stout. The food stands far above your typical pub fare, with offerings ranging from bison short ribs and coconut shrimp and conch fritters to seared yellowfin tuna salad and a Cajun shrimp and tasso ham pizza. Even the chicken wings are distinctive, but go easy on the Hellfire sauce. ($-$$)

NEW AMERICAN/FUSION

ASHLEY STREET GRILLE, 200 N. Ashley Drive, downtown Tampa; (813) 226-4400. A riverfront view and nouvelle Floridian cuisine make this a strong contender in the downtown restaurant market. Located in the Sheraton Tampa Riverwalk Hotel, this attractive eatery simmers with culinary talent. The chef's signature appetizer is Lobster Strudel - shiitake mushrooms, Boursin cheese and fresh lobster in phyllo dough with truffle bechamel sauce. A popular entree is Seafood St. Jacque - green lip mussels, sea scallops and sauteed shrimp in a bechamel sauce topped with piped potato. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ($$)

CHEAP, 309 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5878. Despite its name, Cheap is richly rewarding. This is the sort of hip spot you'd find in Greenwich Village or Portland, Maine, stopping in for a tapas-style bite and glass of Malbec before heading out to a late movie. This small, cozy place offers a tantalizing sampling of small-bite items prepared and presented with an understated, artistic flair. The menu features two columns - epulae (feast) and crudo (raw fish) - small portions that double as appetizers and entrees. Don't pass up the baked goat cheese drizzled with port wine reduction and a scattering of sliced tomatoes and sweet basil leaves. ($)

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

EMERIL'S RESTAURANT ORLANDO, 6000 Universal Blvd., in Universal Studios CityWalk, Orlando; (407) 224-2424. Emeril Lagasse's spirited restaurant offers upscale Louisiana cuisine and top-notch service. Lively appetizers include lobster cheesecake, grilled andouille sausage, cornmeal-crusted oysters and lump crab meat, and spinach and cream cheese strudel. Winning entrees include Texas redfish, rack of lamb, citrus-glazed duck, oven-roasted quail, jumbo scallops and seared sirloin with a horseradish and parsley crust. ($$$)

FETISHES, 6690 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 363-3700. The strip-center architecture redefines plain, but Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies, catering to diners who value intimacy. Favorite appetizers include the hearty cup of Corn and Crab Bisque, chunky with sweet bits of corn and crab; house specialty Maryland Style Crab Cakes, plump and meaty; and Mini Beef Roulettes stuffed with Asiago cheese and prosciutto. Of entrees, we enjoyed the Filet Mignon in a garlicky bechamel, Chicken & Crab Avonaise - chicken, crab, avocado and bearnaise sauce - and Crispy Roast Duckling with orange cumberland sauce. Reservations are a must. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

THE GRAPE, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (on Bay Street at International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 354-9463. This wine bar bistro is part of an Atlanta-based chain that promotes a 10-tier classification guide, customized tasting flights of three or more wines and suggestions for food pairings. The list includes 120 wines of varying quality from around the world. Bites include sandwiches, crab cakes, salads and other light fare. ($)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. Try the sushi. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MICHAEL'S-ON-EAST, 1212 East Ave. S., Sarasota; (941) 366-0007. No list of top Florida restaurants can dismiss Michael's-on-East, which boasts a formidable wine cellar of 350 varietals, and chef Chuck Hurley matches this with a beautifully crafted - and expensive - menu. Ingredients here are creatively fused without being fussy, flavors are blended in concert rather than to fit a trend, and an artful touch lends inspired presentation to each dish.

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. Mise en Place is perhaps the most respected affordable restaurant in Tampa. ($$-$$$)

O BISTRO, 6661 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 381-1212. With a leaning toward Mediterranean, this neighborhood place complements classic dishes with lively meals combining fresh herbs and colorful vegetables. The owners are tenacious and apparently tireless, keeping the kitchen going with breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. Lunch includes a tempting selection of soups and salads, wraps and paninis, quiche and quesadillas, melts and grilled sandwiches. Dinner means curry seared tuna sashimi, Tuscan style pot roast, deep dish spinach pie, and the grilled double Lolli Pop pork chop. ($$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. The decadent Krakatoa Lava Cake oozes bittersweet chocolate with every bite. ($$)

PALM COURT AT TRADEWINDS RESORT, 5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-6461, Ext. 2558. This 18-acre meandering hotel has a treasure of a courtside bistro. The menu has a sizable pasta section, including dishes such as tortellini with rock shrimp, asparagus and garlic cream, and seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams. ($$)

PARK PLAZA GARDENS, 319 S. Park Ave., Winter Park; (407) 645-2475. The dining room at the intimate and romantic Park Plaza Hotel is well worth the 93-mile drive from Tampa. The menu includes Rack of Lamb, Warm Goat Cheese Salad, Black Atlantic Grouper and numerous other marriages of flavor - capon with Stilton cheese, beef with Armagnac, shrimp with sake, etc. Two can spend $100 here with ease, more if you're charmed into getting a room. ($$$)

PARKSHORE GRILL, 300 Beach Drive N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-9463. The restaurant sports an expensive chophouse look - heavy on polished wood, soft lighting, high-back booths and a regal bar. A large, glass wine cave shows off hundreds of bottles. The menu offers a diverse selection of appetizers, such as chicken chili lettuce wraps, and entrees of note are roasted chicken with Boursin cheese, grilled lamb chops and grain mustard, beef Wellington with liver pate, and pan-fried grouper cake in a lemon-caper sauce. ($$$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki "Hawaiian Style" Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's "Original" Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

RUSTY'S BISTRO, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611. Rusty's offers a bountiful salad bar crammed to the hilt with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Not to be missed is the chef's trademark corn soup with a dollop of salsa; a Caesar served inside a decadent fried sheet of Parmesan cheese molded into an edible bowl; shredded duck ravioli; sea bass with fennel, lentils and leeks; and the Lolly Pop Pork Chop with balsamic demi-glace ($$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. And when the climate is comfortable, enjoy the outdoor courtyard. ($$-$$$)

SIGN OF THE MERMAID, 9707 Gulf Drive, Anna Maria Island; (941) 778-9399. If we needed just one more reason to quit the job and spend eternity grazing on Anna Maria, this restaurant could do it. Snazzy appetizers - including Grilled Quail, Charred Rare Tuna, Escargot Fritters, Spanakopita, Hummus and Baba Ganoush, Baked Brie with Honeyed Walnuts - set the stage for a first-class production of entrees. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. A fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. Try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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