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Wine Book Isn't Quite Intoxicating

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By JEFF HOUCK

The Tampa Tribune

Published: June 4, 2008

"Gary Vaynerchuk's 101 Wines," by Gary Vaynerchuk (Rodale, $19.95)

Subtitled as a list of wines that are "guaranteed to inspire, delight and bring thunder to your world," the book falls a little short of the sort of revelations that create their own weather pattern, but there are plenty of juicy parts to drink in and enjoy. When Vaynerchuk declares, "I think Chardonnay got totally out of control with its oak monster," I nod my head and agree. Same goes when he explains that 2005 was a great year for Bordeaux and that there is no need to spend $700 for a bottle. Can't imagine, though, that the makers of one Oregon-grown pinot noir are pleased at having their delicious wine described as smelling "like poop." Still, it makes for entertaining and informative reading.

"Cornbread Nation: The Best of Southern Food Writing," edited by Dale Volberg Reed and John Shelton Reed; general editor John T. Edge (University of Georgia Press, $17.95)

A lot has happened since the last edition of this series came out in 2005. Namely, Hurricane Katrina. And since you can't talk about Southern cooking without addressing the damage done to the Gulf Coast's culinary heritage or the way it scattered bayou cuisine from Houston to Atlanta, this book wisely addresses that event from the first pages. Yes, you'll enjoy the pieces on corn dogs, moon pies and the clash of Italian food in Kentucky. But the corresponding group stories written "before" and "after" Katrina are powerful reminders of how quickly that Southern flavor heritage can be damaged and how durable Southern cooks showed themselves to be in the aftermath.

"The Spice Bible," by Jane Lawson (Stewart Tabori & Chang, $29.95)

It wouldn't be cooking without adding spices to a dish, but that doesn't mean every cook knows exactly what each peppercorn or bladed leaf is capable of or how best to use them. (Star anise, we're looking at you here.) Lawson's comprehensive book assumes the cook knows very little but is willing to learn. Even salt and pepper get a vigorous exploration. Even better are the recipes geared toward helping the reader explore each spice's complex properties.

"Spain and the World Table," The Culinary Institute of America with text by Martha Rose Shulman (DK Books, $35)

Wow, does the CIA put out a beautiful book. (We're still wading through its 2006 book "The Professional Chef." It's bigger than the Gutenberg Bible.) This book dazzles the eyes first and then tantalizes with recipes that, we'll admit, lean a bit toward the difficult side. But the effort rewards the diligent reader with great recipes. Anyone can play with the flavors of Fish and Shellfish Ceviche. All you have to do is get out of the way. With seafood, the book says, "simplicity is the key."

Jeff Houck

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