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An Old Favorite In A New Setting

By KURT LOFT

The Tampa Tribune

Published: June 19, 2008

TAMPA - Will Hyde Park Village ever move beyond the enigma?

More stores and restaurants seem to close than stay open, and high rents prevent the mom-and-pop shops and newsstands from setting foot on such hallowed ground. So when a business sprouts crowds, we take notice.

We certainly did when Restaurant BT moved into the old Selena's space a few years back and sent our taste buds flying. Now, another potential winner resides a couple of doors down, and it looks like a keeper.

The Wine Exchange Bistro and Wine Bar, formerly around the corner on Swann Avenue, has quickly developed a following since re-opening four months ago, evident in the line out the door on busy nights.

No wonder, because the restaurant pours an enjoyable premise. Cases of wine stacked along the walls add a rustic flavor to the main dining room, with its long central bar and high windows overlooking Snow Avenue. A coolly modern decor sets the tone for sipping an array of varietals.

Management tackles an ambitious if inconsistent menu with two dozen Mediterranean-style entrees and pasta dishes complemented by intriguing appetizers, rich soups, salads and pizzas.

The kitchen is a culinary work in progress, as we found on three visits. One night was marred by service miscues, possibly due to the heavy crowds mingling at a village concert, while on the others the food and service settled into a comfortable harmony. We tried both venues, inside with the bustling bar crowd and at a patio table outside, where misting fans keep diners cool on warm nights.

The baked brie in phyllo is a good start to any meal, touched off with brown sugar, almonds and fresh fruit. Our order of black bean hummus was richly satisfying - and garlicky - on triangles of pita bread, and we devoured the Crab Stacker, layered blue crab, seared sliced tuna, avocado and seaweed served with tomato salsa.

The old Wine Exchange did a wonderful job with pasta dishes and keeps tempo here, particularly with a very good prosciutto-laced Classico Carbonara with peas and a creamy Parmesan sauce over fettuccini. A generous portion of scallops and shrimp anchor the Seafood Pasta, and the Country Penne blends Italian sausage, scallops and broccoli.

A very tart lemon flavor gives a jolt to the Chicken Picatta with artichokes and capers, and a smooth cilantro honey glaze complements the cedar plank roasted salmon. Big ticket items are a 10-ounce broiled lobster tail, grilled lamb roast with curry and pesto yogurt, and a heart-stopping 8-ounce filet mignon smothered in Gorgonzola cream sauce.

The kitchen cooks up a half-dozen personal pizzas, all creative in the use of ingredients. Recommended salads include the Grape-Pecan Chicken Salad with mixed greens, and a delicious Fresca made with Mozzarella, tomatoes, pine nuts and black olives. A hearty hot spice gave a kick to our bowl of tomato soup.

Nearly 30 options, from pastas to sandwiches, lend depth to the lunch menu. For the wine lover, the restaurant maintains a solid, constantly changing list, and encourages exploration with a thoughtful variety of pours by the glass.

DINING REVIEW

Wine Exchange

BOTTOM LINE: Relaxing bistro dining in the heart of Hyde Park Village

WHERE: 1609 Snow Ave., Tampa

HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: For parties of five or more

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

HANDICAPPED ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $14 to $29

CALL: (813) 254-9463

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously.