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The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 1, 2008

Updated:

ITALIAN

ALBERTO'S ITALIAN GRILLE AND BAR, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 814-2272. This strip plaza restaurant offers a fine twist on traditional Southern Italian fare. From bruschetta to pasta dishes made with spicy pink sauce, the menu features lots of creative dishes. Meat lovers will enjoy the Filet Alberto and the ossobuco. Other standouts include Penne Puttanesca, a salty pasta with olives, capers and anchovies, and Shrimp Richelle. ($)

ALFANO'S, 1702 Clearwater-Largo Road, Clearwater; (727) 584-2125. Owned and operated by the the Alfano family since 1984, this restaurant offers a bit of European flair along the bustle of Clearwater-Largo Road. Dining rooms are quiet and posh - modeled after the grand hotel lobbies of Italy - and servers work each table with crisp efficiency. Pasta dishes are a must, such as a simple but rich rigatoni with meat sauce or the popular Rigatoni alla Vodka, bathed in a heavy cream sauce with prosciutto, mushroom and hot red pepper. Adventurous diners should consider the Celeste Abacchio, an imported rack of lamb cut and grilled in the Roman style of robust herbal flavors. ($$-$$$)

ANTONIO'S PASTA GRILLE, 11401 N. 56th St., Suite 23, Temple Terrace, (813) 914-8899 (check the telephone book for other locations). This is a friendly place that falls between casual and upscale. Try the delightful pasta primavera, a beautiful display of steamed vegetables with a creamy lemon herb sauce; or Tortellini Con Prosciutto, with mushrooms, peas and ham smothered in a Parmesan cheese sauce. The menu also features steaks, lamb, veal and pizza. Portions are huge. ($)

ARMANI'S, Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa; (813) 207-6800. One of the finest restaurants on Florida's west coast. Overlooking Old Tampa Bay and Tampa International Airport, Armani's offers twin views of sunset and takeoff, plus crack professional waiters and fancy linens. Along with delectable pastas and veal, Armani's is a reliable source for fresh seafood. Service is stellar and the food isn't far behind. It's easy to go broke here, but not necessary. For an evening of frills, plan on $130 for two. ($$$)

BASTA'S RISTORANTE, 1625 Fourth St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-7880. Long a favorite quiet dining spot, the food and service are by no means understated at this fine restaurant. The large menu ranges from dressed-up pastas, most prepared Northern style, to an array of filets and steaks, sauteed in flavorful sauces. Lots of tableside flambe dishes as well. ($$$)

BELLA BRAVA, 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-5515. This trendy, double-decker restaurant hit its stride from the onset with its posh interior, strong wine list and imaginative Italian menu. We applaud the dozen cracker-thin pizzas, loaded with flavor and generous chunks of vegetable, meat or seafood. Deliriously rich pastas are staples, and favorites include veal ravioli, Petto di Pollo alla Fiorentina, and spicy Scampi alla Bella Brava. ($$)

BELLA'S ITALIAN CAFE, 1413 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-3355. If location is everything, Bella's has it made. This venerable Hyde Park restaurant features a classy but comfortable ambience and an affordable menu of Italian dishes made from scratch. Whether you're devouring one of the bargain pizzas or the Confetti Spaghetti, eating here is fun, and families line up to get in on weekends. Desserts are essential, and the kitchen welcomes late-night diners seven days a week while locals pour into the bar and lounge. Weekday lunches are a good deal, too. Consider the outdoor tables. ($$)

BELLINI, 487 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5449. Owners Ciro and Clarita Mancini hail from Naples, Italy, and insist on importing many of their ingredients. Pastas taste fresh and absorb their opulent tomato and cream sauces; velvety cheeses enhance whatever they touch; the kitchen excels at a creative blend of spices, herbs and exquisite olive oils; and entrees are artfully framed on warm plates. A must is the Pappardelle Martina, the wide pasta marrying sauteed shrimp in a coconut saffron sauce with arugula and, when available, fresh strawberries. We also enjoyed a luscious Ravioli d'Aragosta, the pasta squares stuffed with Maine lobster meat and served with shrimp, scallops and chives swimming in a red cream sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAFE CIBO, 8697 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 579-1570. The owners of this comfortable eatery do Italian food right, from the antipasti to the dolci. For entrees, you'll find a wide variety of reasonably priced Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients. Pasta selections include penne with portobello mushrooms, gnocchi with ricotta and chicken-stuffed ravioli. The shrimp scampi comes in a big bowl of al dente linguine swirled with white wine, lemon butter and garlic. A standout entree is Veal Sorrentino, a lightly breaded fillet of veal (or chicken, if you prefer) topped with eggplant that's sealed with marinara and melted mozzarella. Finish it all off with a fluffy piece of tiramisu. ($)

CAFFE AMARETTO, 5915 Memorial Highway, Tampa; (813) 885-4700. When it first opened in the early '90s, this affordable but elegant Italian restaurant boasted a kitchen of magicians, and fortunately little has changed. Rich sauces, judicious use of herbs and creative techniques keep the locals coming back. A seafood favorite is the Cernia Livornese, a fresh filet of grouper with black olives, onions, capers and tomato sauce. ($$)

CAFFE PARADISO, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622. Tucked into St. Croix Plaza on south MacDill Avenue, Caffe Paradiso thrives off local appetites and is happy to customize the diner's order. Owner Paolo Tini offers an excellent minestrone soup and salads, a rich-tasting Ossobuco alla Milanese and Pasticcio di Lasagna. Consider the fish specials. ($$-$$$)

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-8155. If you're looking for bold, inspired pizza creations, this is the place. Try the Thai pie, with chicken, bean sprouts, hoisin sauce and peanut butter; or the Tandoori, plump with chicken, spices, squash and mozzarella. For vegetarians, there's a pie covered with Japanese eggplant, baby broccoli, mushrooms and red onions. Salad lovers will like the Tricolore pizza: a hot, thin crust covered by cool, colorful greens (lettuces, radicchio and arugula). ($-$$)

CASA LUDOVICO, 1710 Alternate U.S. 19, Palm Harbor; (727) 784-7779. Carmine Cervelli hails from Naples, Italy, and honors family traditions. He has no need for nouvelle or contemporary cuisines when original recipes will do. He brings this philosophy to Casa Ludovico, one of the Bay area's culinary gems. Entrees are cooked to order by a veteran kitchen staff, arranged on the plate with simple elegance and presented by a team of efficient, professional servers. Consider the seafood-rich Linguini alla Pescatore de St. Angelo; the spicy Penne alla Norcini; fresh grouper and salmon; or the hearty Medaglioni di Manzo, a trio of petite filet mignon sauteed in cherry tomato sauce with a hint of oregano and garlic. ($$-$$$)

CDB's SOUTHSIDE, 3671 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 805-2327. The pleasantly appointed interior has plenty of space - a bar and lounge and two large dining rooms. There's more dining upstairs, another bar, and tables and chairs on a balcony. The dinner menu offers plenty to chew in its variety of Americanized Italian dishes - from antipasti to veal to poultry to oven grinders. Consider the chicken Marsala, salmon picatta, spinach lasagna or any number of pizzas. ($)

CRISTINO'S COAL OVEN PIZZA, 1101 S. Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater; (727) 443-4900. Anyone who cranks out more than a hundred pizzas on a Friday night is doing their part to keep the community well-fed. Anyone who cooks them the way they do at Cristino's deserves a traditional Neapolitan toast. This little gem of a restaurant specializes in thin-crust pizzas cooked in a coal-fired oven, along with Pollo Contadina, Fusilli Bolognese and a delicious Risotto Primavera. ($)

DELIZIE ITALIAN BAKERY & DELI, 4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 837-8822. Franco Barlettai and Francesca Caramello run a quaint Italian bakery and deli privy to neighborhood locals. Tucked into the St. Croix Plaza, Delizie gives a false impression because the simple, unadorned dining room doesn't match the creativity of its kitchen. A much-recommended pasta entree is the Baked Ziti and Meatballs, a generous portion of penne pasta mixed with a hearty sauce made from whole peeled tomatoes. Consider the Chicken Paillard with rosemary; Pollo alla Lisa; Shrimp Saute; and Grilled Mahi Mahi in a Livornese sauce. ($$)

DONATELLO, 232 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 875-6660. Donatello is synonymous with class. When the maitre d' snaps his fingers, napkins fly, water glasses fill and menus unfold. Mechanics between kitchen and table are as smooth as the sauces that grace the pastas. Entrees include a splendid veal chop sauteed in brandy, mushroom and creme sauce. The avocado appetizer delights with its accompaniment of tender, fresh, butterflied shrimp and cream sauce. ($$$)

GALLEY PIZZA & PASTA COMPANY, 3342 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 832-5675. Pizza and pasta are mainstays at Galley, with a good selection of grinders, salads, burgers and sandwiches rounding out the menu. For the best deal, check out the daily lunch specials between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Choose from manicotti, lasagna, baked ziti or spaghetti. ($)

GINO'S BAR & RESTAURANT, 10006 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 933-1089. This is a true neighborhood restaurant. Gino's relies on the Galantino family cooking tradition in its extensive menu, which features everything from capellini to char-grilled hamburgers. Eggplant Parmigiana is a house specialty and can be ordered as an appetizer, a sandwich or as an entree. Also recommended: Veal Sorrentino and the daily specials. For dessert, the Tiramisu is exceptional, and there is plenty to split. ($$)

GIO'S ITALIAN GRILLE, 3621 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 932-1922. This small, north Tampa Italian eatery cooks up hearty pasta. Try the lasagna with Bolognese sauce, Linguine Di Mare (with shrimp, clams and calamari) and Gio's Fettuccine Verde (tender spinach pasta, fresh mozzarella cheese and sauteed chicken medallions). Torte Della Nonna, with a vanilla-lemon filling, is a welcome finale. ($$)

GIORDANO'S, 11310 Causeway Blvd., Brandon; (813) 655-2828 (check the telephone book for other locations). Chicago-based chain offers a family-friendly atmosphere and a dependable menu of no-frills Italian favorites served in portions that would keep William "Refrigerator" Perry happy. The restaurant's signature item is its stuffed, double-crusted, deep-dish pizza. We recommend the Special - a mouthwatering bounty of sausage, mushrooms, green pepper and onions - but the Super Vegi, Shrimp and Spinach pies are tough to overlook. Consider the outdoor seating if the weather's nice. ($-$$)

GOURMET PIZZA COMPANY, 610 S. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1999. This 25-seat cafe specializes in unusual pizza pies. Among the regional varieties: A Thai Chicken Pizza that has no red sauce but is drizzled with a spicy peanut sauce along with chicken, peppers and cabbage. Southwestern Pizza combines cheeses and chicken on a pastry made of black beans and corn. And there's Cajun Crawfish Pizza, which features spicy sausage and whole crawfish tails atop Cajun hot sauce. Customers can come up with their own creations by choosing from a list of vegetables, meats, sauces and cheeses. If you don't dig pizza, try the calzolli, which is similar to a calzone but flatter. Lasagna comes in meat and vegetable varieties. ($)

IL TERRAZZO, 700 S. Florida Ave. (inside the Tampa Marriott Waterside), downtown Tampa; (813) 204-6343. Enjoy a relaxing meal at this fine dining restaurant overlooking Garrison Channel. Northern Italian favorites include grilled chicken paillard, gnocchi with roasted red pepper sauce, fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp, and stuffed veal chops. ($$)

JOHNNY CARINO'S COUNTRY ITALIAN, 1102 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 673-8700. This is the place to bring the family and dig in. The food ranges from good to nondescript, but servings are hearty and affordable. The large menu hits all the expected bases for an Italian chain: lasagna, chicken parmigiana, seafood fettuccine, veal and lots of pastas. Desserts are killers. ($-$$)

LA TRATTORIA DA GAETANO, 2152 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 733-5664. Gaetano Palmieri runs the show here, taking orders from memory without a printed menu, and cooking everything to order. He brings out a showcase of entrees: filet mignon, New York strip, grouper, snapper, salmon, veal, lamb, shellfish, lobster, rabbit, chicken and stuffed eggplant. Patrons choose their entree, sauce and style of preparation. A wonderful taste sensation for most any dish, particularly stuffed pasta shells, is the sweet pink sauce made with cream and amaretto. Expect a long and rewarding dinner. ($$-$$$)

THE LAUGHING CAT RESTAURANT, 1820 N. 15th St., Tampa; (813) 241-2998. The ambitious menu at this Ybor City restaurant features more than 125 items. You'll find two pages of pasta, 10 veal dishes and 10 chicken dinners. Sherry and cognac add a wonderful punch to risotto, along with baked oysters and plump shrimp. Another highlight is Involtini di Pollo Al Marsala, a moist chicken breast stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto in a Marsala wine sauce. ($$-$$$)

LAURO RISTORANTE, 3915 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 281-2100. Locals who love authentic Italian have worn a path through the door of Lauro Ristorante in south Tampa, where we always leave lingering in garlic and a belt hole larger. Consider the Petto di Pollo Parmigiana, a large double breast densely packed with cheese, breaded and sauteed in butter and spices. Don't pass up the sauteed Dover Sole, a 16-ounce fillet topped with capers and lemon butter and filleted tableside. Pasta dishes are a staple here, filling and framed in lavish cream, tomato or wine sauces. The Penne alla Vodka is tossed with onions and prosciutto, and rich homemade potato dumplings and the sweet flavor of basil spark the Gnocchi Sorrentina. ($$-$$$)

LA TERRAZZA, 1727 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-1326. Luigi is a regular face on Seventh Avenue, greeting anyone who strolls by and enticing them to dine in his attractive little restaurant in the heart of Ybor. Order the Linguine al Pesto - the melding of pine nuts, fresh basil leaves, garlic and olive oil will inundate the senses. Also of note are the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and Spaghetti allo Scoglio with fresh clams, scallops, shrimp and mussels bathed in white wine. ($$)

MAGGIANO'S LITTLE ITALY, 203 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 288-9000. Picture huge plates being passed around the table and diners serving themselves. Yep, this is an eating-out experience just like home - only without the dirty dishes to clean up. It's called "family style" dining, but a group of friends will do - just don't forget your appetite (portions are enormous). Pick two appetizers (choices include a cheesy Spinach and Artichoke al Forno), two salads, two pastas (including Linguine, Chicken, Pesto and Pine Nuts for basil lovers), two main courses (including several chicken dishes, fish and veal) and two desserts (the best: Nonna's Pound Cake, topped with a semisweet fudge and marinated bananas) for the whole table to share. Leave the picky eaters at home. ($$)

MAZZARO'S ITALIAN MARKET, 2909 22nd Ave. N., St. Petersburg, (727) 321-2400. This market is a local treasure, a feast of culinary basics: plump cuts of meat and glistening fish, 300 types of cheese, pickled goodies crammed into jars, hot breads speckled brown in the oven, stuffed pastas, piquant herbs and spices, row upon row of hearty wines and ports, and tins of anchovy and goose liver. The selection of olive oils and balsamic vinegars alone is mind boggling. A family can take out a full pan of cooked food or dine by the slice. Popular selections include sesame-seared tuna, eggplant Parmesan, a hefty and flavorful lasagna, succulent ossobuco, stuffed ravioli, and mini meat loaves stuffed with nuts and raisins. ($)

MELLOW MUSHROOM, 11955 Sheldon Road, Tampa; (813) 926-3600. A chain restaurant with a Deadhead vibe, the Mellow Mushroom made its name with addictive pizza dough - though the extensive beer list doesn't hurt. The salads are good, and the homemade hummus appetizer is worth a try, but be sure to save enough room for the pies. The Magical Mystery Tour, topped with pesto, spinach, portobello and button mushrooms, feta cheese and jalapenos, is a good place to start. The bottom line is you could put anything on these garlic butter and Parmesan-dusted crusts, and it would taste sensational. ($)

MOTT & HESTER DELI, 1155 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 289-9758. Mott & Hester cranks out the best pasta and some of the tastiest sauces in town. This is the deli that runs circles around bigger restaurants at food shows. Named for a street corner in New York's Little Italy, Mott & Hester nonetheless has an uptown attitude. Sandwiches include Big Tony's Special - mortadella, cappicola, salami and provolone covered with lettuce, tomato, red onions and Italian dressing. Don't pass up the fresh pasta takeout case. It's the formula for a fail-safe dinner party. ($$)

NIKO'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 3705 Tampa Road (Forest Lake Plaza), Oldsmar; (813) 814-0907. This small, bright restaurant with friendly service features a menu loaded with Italian and Greek specialties, grinders, and, of course, pizza and seafood. The spinach pizza is a Niko's original, with a perfect combination of spinach, garlic and cheese topping a just-right crust. Daily lunch and dinner specials often feature several pasta dishes and seafood. ($)

N.Y.P.D. PIZZA, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-6973. This cheesy spot at the Channelside complex bills itself as "the arresting taste of New York," and specializes in gut-busting pizzas, pasta dishes, calzones and hero sandwiches and rolls. ($)

PIAZZA ROMA RISTORANTE ITALIANO, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 354-8259. This casual restaurant is a lively spot for gourmet pizza cooked in a mesquite wood-burning oven, and toppings include smoked salmon, truffles, porcini mushrooms and prosciutto. If you're in the mood for pasta, try the Burina (penne nestled with Italian sausage and Romano cheese) or Carbonara (fettuccine bathed with a rich sauce made from eggs, cream, and Romano and Parmesan cheeses). The menu also features risotto, a grilled New York steak, fried chicken, grilled salmon and baked sea bass. ($$)

PINO'S 100 CENTRAL, 100 Central Ave., Sarasota; (941) 955-3739. This upscale restaurant in downtown Sarasota's theater district is framed in rich dark woods, stained walls and soft lighting, the kitchen out of ear shot, and offers an attractive wine bar and lounge next door. The menu reflects the aura of luxury, both in presentation and price. A dinner here with all the stops is by no means an inexpensive proposition, and lunches are definitely of the power variety. Consider the Pollo Valdostana, grilled salmon steak over vegetables, lamb chops infused with garlic, and a half-roasted duck touched off with a reduction of merlot. A big-ticket item is the mushroom-shrouded grilled veal chop. ($$$)

PONTE'S TUSCAN GRILL, 2544 McMullen-Booth Road, Clearwater; (727) 724-5716. There's much to like about Ponte's, a restaurant armed with a superb menu and pots boiling with culinary finesse. The restaurant is the fruit of Chris Ponte, the highly respected culinary mind behind Cafe Ponte. Good bets are the swordfish, sea bass with braised leeks, and veal Marsala accompanied by mascarpone potato puree. ($$)

THE RAVIOLI COMPANY, 3413 S. Manhattan Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-2051. Lauren and Dwight Otis are master pasta makers of the old school, evident in the quality of their fare. It's takeout a la carte, offering both cooked and uncooked meals. The raviolis are exceptional, such as the sweet potato or Gorgonzola cheese and crushed walnuts. Don't pass up a pound of basil-infused or porcini mushroom linguine, which takes just minutes in a pot of boiling water. Also consider the classic lasagna; pesto-crusted leg of lamb; shrimp and andouille sausage; and sea scallops with a curry and lime pappardelle. ($)

RICK'S ITALIAN CAFE, 214 E. Davis Boulevard, Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 253-3310. Rick's serves up good, inexpensive grub with few frills. Try a cup of rich Lentil soup to start, which complements a spicy Antipasto and a dozen addicting Garlic Rolls. Dinners lean toward pasta, such as a tasty Angel Hair with Crab, Baked Ziti, or a tongue-twisting Spaghetti and Sausage. Pasta dishes are down home with no frills, but worthy of a hearty appetite. Lunches are generous and cheap. ($)

RIGATONI TUSCAN OVEN, 3437 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 879-7000. This casual eatery sets a cozy table for those who want a reasonably priced, dependable menu without fussiness. A small dining room overlooks an open kitchen, where on any weekend night an army of cooks toils away making chicken Marsala, gourmet pizza, shrimp scampi and baked and boiled pastas. The heady aromas of garlic, herbs and sauces cling to your clothes with such tenacity that a shirt still smells like Pollo Piccata two days later. ($$)

SALLY O'NEAL'S PIZZA HOTLINE, 1319 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-0220. This South Howard eatery specializes in unusual homemade pies, including artichoke and chicken, spinach and tomato, and beef Gorgonzola. The menu also features pastas, calzones and salads. ($$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

SPARTACO, 3215 S. MacDill Ave., Suite B (Bayshore Plaza), Tampa; (813) 832-9327. This tiny trattoria occupies an unpretentious spot in the corner of a south Tampa strip center, proving that good things often come in small packages. Start with the calamari salad, featuring tender strands of grilled squid and tomatoes bathed in a vinaigrette dressing. Or try a vegetarian selection, grilled polenta with a plump portobello mushroom. The pasta is a hit, too - extra light Sacchettini Ripieni, petite pasta pouches that hold six kinds of cheese, are topped with a pink sauce of tomatoes and bechamel. And a hearty vegetable lasagna layers fresh garden vegetables and spinach pasta. The specials always shine, and the desserts are delightful. ($-$$)

STEPHANNO'S PIZZERIA AND ITALIAN GRILL, 6607 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 232-9486. Hand-tossed pizzas, plus pasta dishes and hearty sandwiches, are the order of the day at this Seminole Heights take-out place. The pizza is good and generously topped, but the homemade focaccia sets the hot and cold sandwiches apart. ($)

TIMPANO ITALIAN CHOPHOUSE, 1610 W. Swann Ave. (in Old Hyde Park Village), Tampa; (813) 254-5870. This hip Hyde Park restaurant is a great place for people-watching. Enjoy the show while listening to live music and sipping one of Timpano's signature martinis. Savvy regulars kick-start the appetite with an oyster or Spicy Tuna Shooter from the raw bar. Dinner entrees are simple and straightforward, such as a Kobe Double Bone Pork Chop, Dry Aged Hand Cut Filet and an Organic Grain Fed Veal Chop. Good bets include Seafood Cioppino, spaghetti topped with a lobster broth loaded with fish, shrimp, calamari and mussels; and Grilled Salmon with mustard cream sauce, paired with marinated artichokes and spinach. ($$$)

VILLA GALLACE, 109 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-0200. This eatery is a popular beach destination, with a deck that overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway. The restaurant offers a hearty menu of Italian favorites. Good service keeps the locals coming back for more than a dozen freddi and caldi antipasti, should your tastes run hot and cold, and hefty chicken, pasta and seafood entrees. Try the Fileto Diane, Veal Rollatini or Tortellini Alla Panna. ($$)

VILLAGGIO RISTORANTE, 102 Flagship Drive, Lutz; (813) 949-0572. This family-run restaurant serves pasta, seafood and meat dishes in a romantic, intimate atmosphere. The hearty Braciola, a rolled beef cutlet stuffed with cheese, ham, onions and bread crumbs, is not for the faint of heart. Lighter appetites might consider Linguine Crab Trecolori, plump pieces of crab, tomatoes and broccoli served over pasta. ($$)

VILLA RINA, 10073 Adamo Drive, Tampa; (813) 654-6449. This Italian eatery promotes itself as a New York-style pizza and pasta restaurant, but pizza is the restaurant's mainstay. Besides the usual assortment of toppings, Villa Rina offers specialty pies such as broccoli, veggie and a white pizza. If you want something richer than pizza, try the calzone (ham, ricotta and mozzarella) or stromboli (pepperoni, ham, salami and cheese). For lunch, the menu offers a huge selection of sandwiches. Dinner entrees include spaghetti, eggplant parmigiana, lasagna and chicken Parmesan. ($)

ZERILLO'S ITALIAN GRILL, 11653 Countryway Blvd., Tampa; (813) 855-5178. Whether you're on a date or out with the kids, this comfortable Italian restaurant with the extensive menu has a table for you. The food is solid, the service efficient and the ambience pleasant - like a high-end chain, with a less anonymous feeling. ($$)

THAI

AI-MEI-THAI RESTAURANT, 5391 34th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0965. The menu lists more than 120 main dishes with familiar favorites such as Pad Thai and a handful of curries. Try the Thai Beef Jerky with a Thai soy sauce and scallion dip; Thai sausage, cooked in lime juice and fish sauce; or the fragrant Yum Shrimp and Squid, scented with ginger and chili paste. A user-friendly menu is spelled out like a Bingo game. For some of us, it sure is easier to say "S2" than "Tom Yum Gnoog." ($)

BAN THAI RESTAURANT, 5374 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 968-7668. Enjoy the lavish teak woodwork and Oriental carvings at this elegantly appointed Thai restaurant. The Yum appetizers are great, as is Chicken in Cream of Coconut Soup. Vegetarians have plenty of choices and there are more than a dozen macrobiotic dishes. Shrimp and pineapple are abundant in a not-too-sweet Sweet and Sour Shrimp. Ginger Chicken is a stir-fried dish with tender chicken, peppers, onions and carrots. Finish dinner with deep-fried Crunchy Banana Coins over coconut ice cream or Lychee (a Chinese fruit), along with a refreshing Thai tea. ($-$$)

BENJARONG THAI, 14402 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 265-2667. Benjarong, which translates to five colors, refers to the patterns on fine Thai porcelain. And there are fine specialties here, such as Tornado Shrimp (jumbo shrimp in a light curry sauce) and Sizzling Seafood (lobster and shellfish in a garlicky brown sauce). Ask for Benjarong's spice tray - Thai mustard sauce, jalapeno peppers, dried chili peppers, and red and green chili peppers in fish sauce. ($)

CAFE DE SIAM, 11242 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 855-1108. This Thai restaurant offers an ambitious menu with more than 80 items. The best dishes are the appetizers. Laarb, the Thai name for a spicy pork, beef or chicken salad, is a vibrant starter. The ground pork was mixed with onions, mint and lime juice, and cabbage leaves are used as utensils for eating the meat. Yum Nuer is thinly sliced beef salad, tossed in a lime and chili sauce with tomatoes, onions and sliced cucumbers. Entrees of note include Pad Met Ma-Mouhng Himmaparn, a chicken stir-fry with scallions, cashews and dried red peppers, served in a garlicky brown sauce; and Horh Moke, a ramekin of sliced pork, cabbage and fresh basil. ($)

JASMINE THAI, 13248 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-1501. Gourmet Thai with rich, imaginative sauces and presentation worthy of Polaroids. Sample the Tornado Shrimp, and Long John Silver's will lose you forever. Fresh crustaceans arrive in an eggplant tub, doused with green curry sauce and trimmed with red pepper slivers. It's all art, all the time. ($)

PLOY THAI RESTAURANT, 1941 W. Brandon Blvd. (in the Providence Square Plaza), Brandon; (813) 684-5007. This quiet Thai haven offers good food and good service. The kitchen takes time to present dishes as tasty art, with vegetable garnishes and pretty purple orchids. Fish fans can delight in a Whole Red Snapper, beautifully bathed in a bright chili sauce and displayed on a decorative fish platter. Panang Curry teams shrimp - simmered in coconut milk, curry and basil - with crunchy, sliced zucchini. The colorful Red Curry with pork is loaded with pineapple and mixed vegetables, and the Chili Sauce is sauteed with pork, carrots, scallions and red peppers in a peppery sauce. ($$)

PU THAI, 8730 49th St. N., Pinellas Park; (727) 547-6556. The name refers to the highlands of Thailand, but mountains of food seem like an appropriate interpretation, too. Good choices include frog legs and Pad Ke Maow, which translates as a drunk stir fry. A multitude of curry dishes come in red, green and other colors depending on its heat index. A number of steamed and sauteed vegetable dishes will please most vegetarians. ($)

ROYAL PALACE THAI RESTAURANT, 811 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5893. Excellent sauces and vibrant vegetables are reasons enough for most guests to fight for a parking space and wait for a table at this south Tampa Thai eatery. Enjoy the yum salads, with shrimp, squid or beef in a zesty lime juice-chili sauce with cucumbers, carrots, onions and chili peppers. A chicken version of Nam Sod is as zesty as any pork version at the competition. Sizzling chicken is a snap, crackle and pop selection of flavorful fried poultry. ($$)

SAWATDEE THAI CUISINE, 10938 N. 56th St., Temple Terrace; (813) 985-2071. There's fancier fare across town, but for a neighborhood restaurant, Sawatdee offers exotic dining at fair prices. The menu adheres to Thai basics, but offers a few surprises, including a pumpkin curry dish with choice of chicken, beef or pork. ($)

SIAM GARDEN THAI RESTAURANT, 3125 Ninth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-0613. Open since 1988, this is one of St. Petersburg's oldest Thai restaurants. Entrees include a number of tasty chicken, steak, seafood, duck and frog-leg dishes. Start dinner with Siam's Yum salads, featuring beef, shrimp or squid. Double Delight (shrimp and chicken), Clay Pot Combination (shrimp, squid and crab) and Panang Curry are other winners. ($)

SIMPLY THAI RESTAURANT, 875 E. Bloomingdale Ave., Brandon; (813) 681-4470. Spring rolls, pork sate and a hearty selection of poultry, pork, beef and seafood stir-fry selections are offered at this Brandon Thai stop. A friendly staff walks guests through its mild to hot dishes. ($)

SUKHOTHAI RESTAURANT, 8201-A N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 933-7990. Sleek and sophisticated, tasty and tasteful. This is the place to dazzle a date. You can even touch toes by accident. In the Khan-Toke room, diners slip off their shoes and sit on the floor. Start with the duck soup. ($$)

THAI-AM 2 RESTAURANT, 13037 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 398-9700. Viyada and Sungkard Thanupakorn moved to a new, more spacious location on the beach, but the restaurant still retains its warm, friendly charm. The lengthy menu features soups, appetizers (try the nam sod, a mixture of minced chicken, lime juice and ginger) and a good selection of beef, chicken, pork and seafood entrees. Recommended are the curries, hearty and prepared with care. You'll also find tempura, teriyaki, sashimi, sushi and a number of other Japanese dishes. ($-$$)

THAI CORNER, 713 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 228-6801. This solid Thai restaurant caters to the downtown lunch crowd with a fairly traditional menu of rice and noodle-based dishes. Flavors tend to be mild, so be sure to ask if you like extra heat. Try the Red Curry and Pad See-Ew. ($$)

THAI BAY THAI RESTAURANT, 1300 E. Bay Drive (Largo Center), Largo; (727) 584-5522. A plain exterior doesn't prepare you for the inventive food found here. Order the Amazing Beef (with broccoli), Volcano Shrimp (with lava sauce) or Two Friends Panang (with curry). Entrees deliver subtle and powerful flavors. The heat index ranges from mild to molten. ($)

THAI ISLAND, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (Davis Islands), Tampa; (813) 251-9111. This family-run restaurant features fresh ingredients - many grown on the premises - and a friendly, tropical vibe. Don't miss the corn fritters (a less bricklike cousin of the hush puppy) and the panang curry, especially with pork. Homemade soups and salads are also a good bet. ($-$$)

THAI SWEET BASIL, 3875 Northdale Blvd., Tampa; (813) 961-8898. This exceptional Thai restaurant on Northdale Boulevard is worth the drive even if you don't live in the neighborhood. The menu mixes beautifully presented classics with innovative dishes like Scallop Wasabi. The Duck Curry is an exceptional autumnal feast; also noteworthy are the Green Curry, house sangria and Fried Banana with Coconut Ice Cream. ($$)

THAI THANI, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-9200. Thai Thani has kept up a steady stream of locals and tourists who come for its inventive sushi and sashimi offerings in the Japanese tradition, creatively presented Thai seafood and curry dishes, and the tastefully appointed dining room. The menu reflects the influences of other countries, such as China and India, but stresses the traditional soups, curry dishes, spiced salads, fish, vegetables and dipping sauces of Thailand. Many dishes are a harmonious blend of sweet, sour and spicy - some very, very spicy. ($$)

CONTINENTAL

BEACH BISTRO, 6600 Gulf Drive, Holmes Beach; (941) 778-6444. A continental restaurant barely big enough to be real, the Beach Bistro seats guests just yards from the Gulf of Mexico. Count on personal attention and artful presentation. The Bistro covers all the bases. Seafood is fresh; beef is prime; and poultry is impeccably prepared, especially the mouth-watering Duckling au Poivre. Don't skip dessert. Chocolate Truffle Terrine and Praline Alexandra are the ones to order. ($$$)

BUDAPEST RESTAURANT, 7411 U.S. 19 N., New Port Richey; (727) 848-4437. Two words describe this place: Hungarian heartiness. The Budapest Platter for Two is an edible version of Noah's Ark - two breaded pork chops, two veal cutlets, sausage for two, two fried chicken livers, two breaded mushrooms, two orders of coleslaw and a flood of home-fried potatoes. Reasonable prices. ($)

CAFE BISTRO AT NORDSTROM, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 875-4400. This culinary treasure, hidden away on the second floor of Nordstrom, is an ideal place to take a break from shopping. The open kitchen prepares excellent soups, salads, pizzas, sandwiches and entrees. Try anything with fries, but save room for the white chocolate bread pudding. ($$)

CAFE L'EUROPE, 431 St. Armands Circle, Sarasota; (941) 388-4415. Continental food at monumental prices. Cafe L'Europe is a mainstay of St. Armands Circle indulgence. But, heck, you can watch your friends shop while you eat, and the goose liver pate is one of the best anywhere. The duck salad is something to quack about. Appetizers in general are outstanding. ($$-$$$)

FLY BAR & RESTAURANT, 1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 275-5000. This chichi downtown eatery with the big-city feel and rooftop deck serves small plates and exotic cocktails late into the night, or sandwiches at lunchtime. Sandwiches are more consistent than the ambitious evening fare, which doesn't always live up to its price. But you can't beat the ambience. ($$-$$$)

GOOD TIMES CONTINENTAL RESTAURANT, 1130 Pinellas Bayway, Tierra Verde; (727) 867-0774. Since 1977, the Good Times Continental Restaurant has served a melting-pot array of Czech, Austrian, German and French dishes. Yet the image from this description shouldn't be all Old World heaviness. Fresh Florida foods accent the menu. Dinners are full course, which means rye bread, soup and salad in addition to an entree with heaps of vegetables and carbohydrates such as potatoes, noodles or dumplings. Dishes of note include scamp (a smaller, flakier fish than grouper), coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a mushroom-laden cream and butter sauce), beef stroganoff and wiener schnitzel. ($$)

RESTAURANT HAPA, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 749-8400. An outstanding addition to the Bay area's fine-dining scene, this Oldsmar eatery is tucked into an unassuming strip mall. Once inside, elegance and good taste reign supreme, from the opulent decor to the compact menu. Lamb and duck are standouts, but the fish dishes are also excellent. Be sure to save room for the souffle of the day. ($$$)

THE SCHNITZELHAUS, 4333 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 884-5634. This cozy German restaurant rises above the American stereotype of Teutonic fare, and owners Mike, Susi and Ralph Jacobi serve comfort food in generous portions. Start with an order of potato pancakes or the luscious goulash soup. Entrees worth chowing down on are Jagerschnitzel smothered in a dark mushroom sauce and the Schnitzel Gourmet Dinner, leg of lamb and venison roast in a heavy wine-and-cream sauce. The marinated beef sauerbraten, like many other entrees, comes with red cabbage and spaetzle. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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