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Feeder's Digest: Restaurant Rundowns

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The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 23, 2008

SEAFOOD

BACKFIN BLUE CAFE, 2913 Beach Blvd. S., Gulfport; (727) 343-2583. Be prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner. ($)

CATCH TWENTY-THREE, 10103 Montague St. (West Park Village Town Center), Westchase; (813) 920-0045. Catch Twenty-Three prepares fresh seafood in contemporary, creative ways. The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast. Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and cooked over pecan wood. We had good luck with the Sun Tan Salmon, Black Grouper, Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna, and Shrimp Scampi Caribbean. ($-$$)

THE CRAB SHACK, 11400 Gandy Blvd., St. Petersburg; (727) 576-7813. It's called The Crab Shack, and that's just what diners can expect: a shabby, authentic-looking fisherman's shack. Blue crabs, fish, oysters, spicy Cajun Creole soup and smoked mullet have kept patrons hooked for more than a decade. The menu also boasts about a dozen appetizers, a vast selection of sandwiches, a land lover's section (steak and chicken) and a couple of salads. The colossal Super Sea Food Feast features grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a crab cake, all lightly breaded and fried. The broiled grouper was perfectly cooked and topped with a blue crab and bread crumb stuffing that offered more meat than bread. And the Corvina Style Dinner, a house specialty, features a whole fish, usually in the snapper family, seasoned and deep fried. ($)

CRAZY CONCH CAFE, 1110 Pinellas Bayway, No. 206, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. Louisiana, Mexico, Florida and Texas are among the culinary influences at former Captiva chef Michael Peel's Tierra Verde restaurant. Seafood Gumbo with andouille sausage, Smothered Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Steven's Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Local Red Grouper are spicy choices at this casual cafe overlooking Tampa Bay. Chocolate terrine, apple crisp, lime cheesecake and rum Bundt cake are great desserts. ($$-$$$)

FRENCHY'S ROCKAWAY GRILL & BEACH CLUB, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater Beach; (727) 446-4844. Visitors to Clearwater Beach are familiar with the Frenchy's restaurant empire, where fresh seafood can be found at affordable prices. But Frenchy's Rockaway Grill & Beach Club has one advantage the others don't - outdoor dining on a patio deck smack on the beach. The extensive menu is filled with appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches. Nightly dinner specials range from steaks and seafood platters to pasta and ribs. Fresh seafood, of course, is a mainstay of the menu. ($)

HURRICANE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 807 Gulf Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-9558. The Hurricane, with its second-floor, sea-view dining room, looks nothing like its former beach shack self. But the famous Fresh Grouper Sandwich is still on the menu, people still complain about the wimpy bun, and most of the food is still under $10. ($)

ISLAND WAY GRILL, 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617. Wall-to-wall patrons jam this Pan-Asian seafood stop. Favorites from chef-partner Tom Pritchard's kitchen include Szechwan Pepper Crusted Tuna, Vietnamese King Crab Rolls and Wok-Seared Scallops. Landlubbers have plenty to choose, too, with a dozen steaks, Javanese Pork Tenderloin, Hawaiian Kona Rack of Lamb and Volcano Island Meatloaf. Save room for a dessert sampler, with ginger Creme Brulee, Warm Molten Lava Chocolate Cake and Key lime pie. ($$-$$$)

KEEGAN'S SEAFOOD GRILLE, 1519 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-2477. As the name implies, seafood is the main attraction at this laid-back beach eatery. The eclectic menu features dishes such as Pan-Seared Wahoo over Asian Slaw, Amarillo Char-Broiled Swordfish, and Andouille and Scallop Stuffed Tilapia. Salmon Piccata sauteed with lemon and capers is a tasty choice, as is the Parmesan-Crusted Mahi Mahi served with black bean salsa. You'll also find salads, sandwiches and decadent desserts. ($-$$)

THE LOBSTER POT, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 391-8592. The place to go to get out of your shell and into something else's. Comfortable but cultured: The bowling shirt's OK, but please use your napkin. Lobster selection here is the best around. Go for the African tails - tender and sweet - and you won't be disappointed. Aside from lobster, there's a wide array of fresh fish, prepared in numerous ways. Nightly specials plump a menu that's already fat with choice. Don't pass over the Escargot Eugen. It is one of the finest man has known. ($$)

MANGROVES SEAFOOD GRILLE AND BAR, 208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3302. Readers are forever calling to ask about fresh seafood, and we point them toward Mangroves Seafood Grille and Bar, where luscious catches from the ocean are the marquee event. Consider the Tower of Spicy Tuna Tar-tar with Korean chiles; plantain-crusted Tiger Prawns on a grilled pineapple disc; bamboo steamed Atlantic salmon atop a heavenly coconut-ginger rice cake; and sauteed Chilean sea bass wrapped in purple Peruvian potato sheets. Carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the 16-ounce, premium, dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye drizzled with green peppercorn reduction. ($$-$$$)

MARLIN DARLIN' GRILL, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 584-1700. When you sink a small fortune into decor, offer fresh seafood, hire a crack serving staff and stock the bar with a strong list of beer and wine, you have the recipe for success. This fine catch not far from the Gulf is a favorite among locals, especially for just about anything from the sea. Early birds can enjoy a dozen entrees for $10. ($$-$$$)

MID PENINSULA SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT, 400 49th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 327-8309. You won't find escargot and fancy sauces at this no-frills eatery. The menu is loaded with fish selections, though, including sea bass, snapper and grouper, which can be ordered fried, grilled, scampi, blackened or steamed. Non-seafood eaters will find sirloin burgers, corn dogs and chicken. For dessert, try the red velvet cake. ($-$$)

MITCHELL'S FISH MARKET, 204 West Shore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-3663. Rich wood, nautical lights and images of majestic ships adorn the dining rooms, and visitors can peek through the glass of a cold room to observe seafood being prepped. Mitchell's can be packed to the gills on any given night, and its 80-item menu seems to appeal to the hordes of tourists and mall shoppers who line up for tables. The menu features black grouper, a seafood platter, Atlantic salmon, Maine lobster and other goodies. ($$)

MONSTAH LOBSTAH, 1700 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 837-0800 (check the telephone book for other locations). Fresh Maine lobster is the ticket at Monstah Lobstah, a rustic little haunt doing a brisk business, mostly takeout. Don't expect fine dining or tables - this place is blue jeans casual and the majority of patrons grab a dinner to go. The menu includes lobster with corn on the cob and potato salad; lobster rolls; and New England chowder. Bring your own beer if you want to eat in. ($-$$)

MYSTIC FISH SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800. Chef Doug Bebell, a Lobster Pot alumnus, is creative with ingredients in dishes such as Lobster Escargot Style, Black & Blue Tuna and Oven Roasted Chilean Sea Bass. The restaurant serves steaks, chicken and lamb as well. ($-$$)

NICK'S PIZZA & SEAFOOD, 1203 Gulf Road, Tarpon Springs; (727) 937-3444 or (727) 937-0882. Nick's specialty is combination pizzas, seafood (a good bet is the U-Peel-Um Pepper Shrimp), spaghetti and sandwiches. ($)

OYSTERCATCHERS, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 207-6815. Few restaurants capture the spirit of Florida dining quite like Oystercatchers at the Hyatt Regency Westshore. Windows point to the sun's descent over Old Tampa Bay. Inside, cool colors borrowed from nature complete the theme. Fish selections include American Red Snapper, Florida Mahi-Mahi, Norwegian Salmon, New Zealand Orange Roughy, Gulf Coast Black Grouper, Atlantic Swordfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Idaho Rainbow Trout and Louisiana Pompano. ($$)

RUSTY BELLIES, 937 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-4047. This family-run, family-friendly seafood restaurant is the best kind of monopoly: they catch the fish, they cook the fish and you get to eat it. Try a steamer pot with a selection from the sophisticated beer list, or order the catch of the day, any way you like it. ($$)

RUSTY PELICAN, 2425 Rocky Point Drive, Tampa; (813) 281-1943. Wading in the shallows of Old Tampa Bay, the Rusty Pelican offers a beautiful view and a menu that's more than skin deep. It's loaded with seafood choices - including a scrumptious Seared Sesame Ahi - but meat lovers will find plenty to keep them busy. ($$)

SEA CRITTERS CAFE, 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-3706. One of the joys of this casual eatery is that you don't have to change out of your swimsuit just because the stomach signals dinner time. Sea Critters offers dock-side (catch some rays), deck-side (under a roof) or inside dining. If you choose indoors, most of the restaurant offers a splendid view of the Intracoastal Waterway. Best bets are Carbone's Scampi Magnifico, the Hail Caesar salad and crab cakes. ($$)

SEA PORCH CAFE AT THE DON CESAR BEACH RESORT & SPA, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881. A natural draw with its outdoor umbrella tables and Florida bistro menu, this cafe offers casual chic dining. Because the restaurant faces the Gulf of Mexico is reason enough to go. But entrees are also spectacular such as cedar roasted salmon with Ruskin spinach salad, served on a plank of wood. Also, a rosemary rotisserie half chicken has a surprising homey touch of a stream of gravy and "fingerling" or skinny roasted potato slices. ($$)

SNAPPER'S, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550. If you crave fresh, creatively prepared seafood, Snapper's is the catch of the day. The restaurant features a tasteful, stylish interior with an open kitchen that scores big points both for quality and quantity - and a penchant for brilliant fruit sauces to complement entrees. Stellar appetizers include Blueberry Tuna served over wilted greens and drizzled with blueberry teriyaki, and Oyster Osceola baked with spinach chorizo, jack cheese and jalapeno. A standout entree is the Wasabi-Crusted Tuna Steak, seared and served blood rare (our call) with a wasabi mashed potato. ($$-$$$)

SPLASH!, 3973 Van Dyke Road, Tampa (off North Dale Mabry Highway in Northgate Plaza); (813) 269-8611. While entree prices at this Northdale eatery don't dip below $12, nor do they empty the wallets of diners looking for a swell date night out. Seafood, particularly in the inventive appetizers, is the main attraction of the charmingly retro menu. Try Crab Martini, served in a very trendy martini glass, accompanied by pearl onions, lemons and olives. Maine lobster shows up several times over, most successfully in the Lobster Thermidor - an empty shell stuffed abundantly with sweet, moist meat that's topped with a smooth, buttery cream sauce. ($$)

THIRSTY MARLIN GRILL & BAR, 1023 Florida Ave., Palm Harbor; (727) 784-3469. The kitchen focuses its talents on seafood, turning out creative renditions of standards - think a generous fillet of salmon topped with caramelized onions cooked atop a real cedar plank - along with its own inventions. Those include Sam's Seafood Strudel, a phyllo pocket stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab and lobster and dressed in a Caribbean remoulade sauce. Even simple creations, such as blackened mahi mahi with a ketchup-based Bahamian dipping sauce, bring mouthwatering flavors to the table. The Caribbean Jambalaya, yellow rice with chunks of jerk chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp in a spicy Caribbean sauce, was a taste sensation. ($$)

WHARF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-9469. Window perches along the Intracoastal Waterway and a slate of fresh fish draw diners by land and by sea, some in shorts and flip-flops. The restaurant, best known as the 1910 site of the Bell family's fish processing plant, even offers a "You Hook It: We'll Cook It" entree for anglers. If the fish aren't biting, there's plenty already caught, including shrimp, scallops, clams, mahi-mahi, albacore tuna, crabs, grouper, cracked conch and raw oysters, plus a few chickens and steers that somehow wound up in the net. ($)

CUBAN/SPANISH

ARCO IRIS, 3328 Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-1357. This eatery captures the spirit of the small restaurants found in Havana, and although meals aren't served in a living room as they are in Cuba, the warmth of the island's hospitality is there. It is one of the best places for authentic Cuban food in the area. Arco Iris serves very fine fried rice with traditional Spanish dishes such as roast pork and breaded grouper. Great meals can be had here for less than $15. ($)

BROCATO'S, 5021 E. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 248-9977. This family eatery specializes in large sandwiches and Cuban food. Brocato's roast pork, a key ingredient in its Cuban, is so tender that it almost melts in your mouth. Other sandwich offerings include Palomilla steak, roast beef, Italian sub, chicken Parmesan and meat ball. The restaurant also offers a variety of soups and salads, black beans and rice, deviled crabs, chicken and yellow rice dinners, empanadas (meat pies) and guava and apple pastries. Open for breakfast. ($)

CAFE DON JOSE, 12350 N. 56th St., Tampa; (813) 985-2392. Cafe Don Jose has built its reputation on the cuisine of Spain: seafood, pasta, chicken and beef are served in softly lit dining rooms whose decor harkens back to the days of Spanish conquistadores. Waiters here are professional and efficient. Portions are respectable and the ingredients fresh. Must-have entrees include Cazuela de Marisco (seafood casserole), brimming with chunks of lobster, whole shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops and fish in a savory catalana sauce. ($$-$$$)

CAPDEVILA'S AT LA TERESITA, 3248 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 879-9704. Landmark La Teresita has flowered into a lovely restaurant complex, complete with lunch counter and dining room. Capdevila's doesn't pretend to be exclusive, but the waiters wear crisp white shirts and black bow ties. Weekdays, the office lunch crowd feasts on Roast Pork, Russian Trout or the classic Chicken and Yellow Rice. Portions are huge, service is swift and lunch specials are recommended. ($)

CARMINE'S, 1802 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-3834. A quick spot for lunch. Low-priced, no-frills Spanish food piled high on plates. Daily specials lure folks from downtown to this lively, cafelike eatery. A good place to grab some Spanish bean soup or black beans, chicken soup and yellow rice before heading back to the office. ($)

CEVICHE, 10 Beach Drive, St. Petersburg; (727) 209-2302. This ornate tapas bar and restaurant in the historic Ponce de Leon hotel gets high marks for its olive-drenched Spanish atmosphere as well as the depth and quality of its menu. The kitchen offers what must be 100 hot and cold tapas, most everything prepared and presented at a consistently high level. Ceviche - the namesake offering - covers a delicious gamut of raw seafood marinated in citrus juices and adorned with aromatic herbs and spices, but don't pass up the glorious meats, paella and other goodies that make this one of St. Pete's culinary hot spots. ($$)

COLUMBIA RESTAURANT, 2117 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-4961 (consult telephone directory for other locations throughout Florida). This is the grand palace of Spanish cuisine. From its flamboyant flamenco dancers to its fiery ceramic exterior, the Columbia is all color. In doubt? Order the paella, a traditional and eye-pleasing Spanish feast of fish, shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels, clams, chicken, pork, sausage, green peppers, onions and tomatoes, all piled onto yellow rice. By day, the Columbia is an atmospheric haven for business lunches; by night, one of Tampa's biggest tourist draws. ($$)

DE SANTO LATIN AMERICAN BISTRO, 128 Third St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-6400. Armed with the culinary advice of former Bern's chef Jeannie Pierola, this beautifully ornate space should quickly become a must-try spot in downtown St. Petersburg. De Santo spent $2.5 million to renovate the historic McNulty fire station on Third Street, and the result is a space of visual splendor that underscores the restaurant's buzzwords: rhythmic, urban, rustic and Latin. Highlights are seafood dishes, a number of colorful appetizers and signature margaritas. ($$$)

HUGO'S SPANISH RESTAURANT, 931 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-2842. Hugo's lays no claim to gourmet fare, but prices are reasonable and the grub is hearty. This Hyde Park staple touts its "world's worst Cuban sandwich," but in truth, competes with the best sandwich makers in Tampa. Italian dishes score more points for low price than for taste. In short, the appeal is price and location. ($)

LA BAMBA, 4815 W. Laurel St., Tampa; (813) 287-2575. This Spanish-American cafeteria-style restaurant serves breakfast and lunch. Morning specialties include the La Bamba Croissant (with egg, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage) and omelets. Lunch specials include baked grouper, beef stew, chicken Parmesan, chicken salteado, Spanish meat balls, ropa vieja, Russian trout, chicken cordon bleu and boliche. A variety of soups are offered daily, such as Spanish bean, split pea, cream of broccoli and black bean. ($)

LAS PALMAS CAFE, 19651 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa; (813) 907-1333. Tucked away in the Pebble Creek Collection shopping center, this restaurant serves Spanish-Cuban fare in a family atmosphere. The tiny, 30-seat space features such warm touches as paneling, lower light fixtures and dark green carpeting. Menu items include deviled crab, Merluza a la Rusa (a breaded whitefish filet), chicken and yellow rice and breaded palomilla steak. ($)

LATAM AT THE CENTRO, 1913 N. Nebraska Ave., Tampa; (813) 223-7338. In the Roaring '20s, Tampa tangoed at the Centro Asturiano cantina, paddle fans turning the air. Now, there are steaming plates of Lechon, Filete Salteados and Boliche, produced by a family with old Ybor roots. The menu is a blend of Spanish, Cuban and Italian, with such favorites as Paella, Shrimp al Ajillo and Chicken Parmigiana. Open for lunch only, Monday through Friday. ($)

LINCOLN SPANISH RESTAURANT, 3247 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa; (813) 354-8335. A West Tampa institution since it opened in 1963, this "Boliche Boulevard" locale bustles at lunch and dinner. The restaurant specializes in authentic roast pork, ropa vieja (shredded beef), carne con papa (beef stew) and seafood dishes such as zarzuela de mariscos (rice and seafood) and lobster enchilado. ($)

MR. EMPANADA, 4836 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-6232 (check the telephone book for other locations). Mr. Empanada offers tasty turnovers stuffed with combinations of beef, sausage, chicken, seafood and fruit. The beef empanada has juicy ground beef seasoned with onions and green and red peppers. Seafood lovers should try the crab empanada in a light tomato sauce. (The bits of shell add to the authenticity.) The restaurant also offers Cuban sandwiches, Spanish bean soup, deviled crabs and an assortment of salads. ($)

SPAIN RESTAURANT, 513 Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-2831. A good place for hearty Spanish grub without emptying the wallet at lunch or dinner. Consider the lemon grouper or paella. Those with light appetites might want to sit at the bar, sip sangria and munch on more than two dozen hot and cold tapas. ($-$$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

TINATAPA'S, 615 Channelside Drive (in Shoppes at Channelside), Tampa; (813) 514-8462. This colorful, hip eatery specializes in the popular Spanish tradition of tapas. Tapas are essentially finger foods, small servings of Spanish dishes that allow the diner to jump from dish to dish. The restaurant serves more than 30 varieties of hot and cold tapas. Favorites include Pan de Tomato, with diced red tomatoes, Spanish ham, provolone cheese and olives, drizzled with olive oil and served atop crusty bread; and Gambas Fritas, breaded, fried prawns doused with a sweet and spicy dip. Each small plate averages three or four mouthfuls, so two people could easily eat six or more tapas and spend in excess of $60, not counting beverages or desserts. ($$-$$$)

TIO PEPE, 2930 Gulf-To-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082. A Pinellas favorite, Tio Pepe delivers consistently enjoyable Spanish cuisine. The menu includes traditional Paella, but those with other preferences find seafood in delicate cream, such as Gambas Rellenas a la Pepe (large stuffed shrimp in a sauce), along with sassy poultry preparations and hearty beef dishes. Waiters make a first-rate sangria, mixed with sugar, brandy, citrus, cinnamon and choice of wine or champagne, and the bakery turns out a nice variation on pumpernickel. The restaurant can be loud and bustling on busy nights. ($$)

VIZCAYA RESTAURANTE & TAPAS BAR, 10905 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-7400. This Spanish eatery showcases Chef Felix Piedra's creative way with tapas, appetizers that you can mix and match into a meal. He cooks up 20 hot tapas, with choices such as merluza, a Spanish fish cooked with a lobster and seafood sauce; fresh calamari in its black ink; and fresh scallops with imported chorizo. Cold tapas options include Gulf shrimp with avocados and duck liver with green peppercorns. For entrees, try Zarzuela de Mariscos, a bountiful seafood dish with Maine lobster, scallops, clams and shrimp, accented with a rich cream sauce tinged with brandy; or the hearty paella, rich and fragrant with saffron-flavored rice, shrimp, mussels and clams, topped with half a lobster. The wine list is extensive for a small eatery. ($$-$$$)

PACIFIC RIM

THE BAMBOO CLUB, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-0326. Pacific Rim favorites are steamed, sizzled, woked and flash fried. Don't miss Woked Vietnamese Shrimp and Chicken with a zesty cracked pepper and soy sauce. Thai Spicy Shrimp with green beans gets zip from crushed red peppers. Squid fans should order the Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad. Bamboo Club also serves wonderful fried spinach, crisp woked beef and lemon grass shrimp. Three noodle dishes can be served as soup or woked entrees. ($$-$$$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

ZEN FORREST, 4148 Rowan Road, New Port Richey; (727) 372-9545. Take a trek through Asia without a hefty travel bill by savoring Chef Victor Wang's artful dishes, inspired by the cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand and beyond. The delicious and healthful meals include a chicken and rice soup featuring a hint of anise, Thai Coconut Curry with lemon grass-infused chicken, and a seafood feast of shrimp, calamari, mussels, sea scallops and vegetables over fried noodles. ($$-$$$)

CHINESE

CHINA BUFFET, 1245 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 615-1310. The star attraction of this all-you-can-eat buffet is its surprisingly fresh, high-quality sushi. For lunch, they have an ample variety of sushi rolls, with a few pieces of nigiri (strips of fish atop fingers of rice) here and there. Plus there's vegetarian sushi for those who haven't yet made the leap to raw fish. For dinner, they put out more nigiri, which requires much more fish. The rest of the buffet is the standard fare of most Chinese restaurants - noodles, vegetables, different types of pork and chicken, soups and salad-makings. They also offer you-peel-'em crawdads and cold shrimp. ($)

CHINA GARDEN, 3904 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 805-2929. Arrive hungry and prepare to dine in a cafeterialike atmosphere with big crowds who come for the super lunch and dinner buffets. Daily features include a Mongolian "u-pick it, they cook it" BBQ. Choose from raw pork, chicken, beef and fresh vegetables, which you hand over to be sizzled on the griddle. Soups, sushi, dim sum, Korean kimchi, egg rolls, barbecue spare rib tips, fried rice and crisp green beans line up next to Egg Foo Young, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Hunan Shrimp, Peking Duck and Pork Lo Mein and much, much more. ($)

CHINA YUAN RESTAURANT, 8502 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 936-7388. If your taste buds need excitement, consider China Yuan. A visit here is not a trip to Chinatown but to China. This authentic Cantonese spot is not Americanized, but a good place to explore new tastes. Try the Fresh Squid in Pepper and Black Bean Sauce or ask if the sweet blue crab dishes are available. Other good choices include Sizzling Pork Chops, Snow Pea Tips (an entree of flavorful, bright green leaves) and fried rice cooked with shrimp, chicken and ham. ($-$$)

HAO WAH, 1713 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-2095. For appetizers, check out an order of six steamed dumplings, crab meat Rangoon, Chinese roast pork or fantail shrimp. A simple but tasty dish for $7 is honey chicken, the nuggets of breast meat crisp and butter fried, served with a sweet honey sauce. Other good bets are the flavorful Shrimp With Cashew Nuts, Seven Stars Around the Moon, the sizzling Goba and Flower Basket Delight. ($-$$)

P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO, 219 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-8400. The menu is representative of the major culinary regions of China (Hunan, Sichuan, Canton, Shanghai, Beijing), with a few Southeast Asian dishes thrown in. Entrees come with both white and brown rice, along with soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar. Try Spicy Ground Chicken and Eggplant, the minced chicken perfectly complementing the smooth wedges of eggplant. Cantonese Roasted Duck is presented with steamed wheat buns, julienned cucumbers and scallions, and plum and hoisin sauces. Chang's Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps (spicy chicken, water chestnuts and mushrooms) is a must-try appetizer. ($-$$)

T.C. CHOY'S ASIAN BISTRO, 301 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-1191. This Oriental bistro cooks up more than 100 Chinese dishes, including eel, octopus, abalone, shark's fin, Mongolian Beef, Japanese Seaweed Salad, Honey Glazed Scallops and whole Beijing duck. You'll also find 30 to 40 dim sum selections. Vegetarians will have no trouble finding zesty options. ($$)

PUBS

FLANAGAN'S IRISH PUB, 465 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 736-4994. This casual eatery features traditional pub grub such as bangers and mash (pork sausage and mashed potatoes), fish and chips and shepherd's pie. Appetizers include Chicken Curry Fries and a Sampler Platter with potato skins, stuffed clams, chicken strips and Irish sausage rolls. You'll also find imported ales on draft and live Irish folk entertainment. ($)

FOUR GREEN FIELDS, 205 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444. This quaint, thatched-roof Irish pub has a homey atmosphere that attracts a cast of regulars. The food is potato simple and unassuming, the people friendly and the music always cheerful. The restaurant's name symbolizes the four provinces of Ireland - Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Munster. The key here is what flows on tap, what we call the Holy Trinity of Froth - 30-weight Guinness, Harp Lager and Bass Ale, among other excellent brews. ($)

MACDINTON'S, 405 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8999. Beef stew simmering in vegetables and a rich broth of Guinness Stout is enough to bring the Irish out of anyone, and it's a staple here. But this isn't just pub grub. The kitchen cooks up Blackened Tuna sprinkled with Cajun spices and placed over vegetable couscous and a relish of pineapple and lime; herb-scented New Zealand Roast Rack of Lamb over spinach and mashed potatoes; a seared Breast of Muscovy Duck; and Gaelic Angus Sirloin with turnip puree and an Irish Whiskey mushroom sauce. ($)

MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMEN, 4115 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037. Traditional pub fare and a good beer list share space with an upscale fusion menu with Indian and Asian accents at this south Tampa institution. Dinner specials aren't cheap, but at least you don't have to dress up at this casual spot, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. The long list of exotic side dishes makes Mad Dogs a good choice for healthful snacking, too. ($-$$$)

TAMPA BAY BREWING COMPANY, Centro Ybor, 1600 E. Eighth Ave., Tampa; (813) 247-1422. Handcrafted beer is the big draw here, from pale and amber ales to a dark, rich stout. The food stands far above your typical pub fare, with offerings ranging from bison short ribs and coconut shrimp and conch fritters to seared yellowfin tuna salad and a Cajun shrimp and tasso ham pizza. Even the chicken wings are distinctive, but go easy on the Hellfire sauce. ($-$$)

CARIBBEAN

ALFRESCO, Renaissance Vinoy Resort, 501 Fifth Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1000, Ext. 2144. The culinary theme under this attractive gazebo is Floribbean, a mix of Florida and Caribbean styles that blends tropical fruits, piquant relishes, aromatic herbs, translucent sauces and quick, fat-free grilling. Starters worth biting into are the Conch Fritters with curried remoulade sauce, or the Coconut-Fried Shrimp with a tangy citrus mustard sauce. A good bet for light eating under $10 is the Caribbean Chicken Caesar with pineapple relish. The limited entree selection includes slow-roasted Island Spiced Ribs with guava barbecue sauce and grilled Florida Spiny Lobster with charred tomato sauce and toasted cumin seeds. ($$)

COQUINA BLUE GRILL & BAR, 12836 Henderson Blvd. (corner of Gunn Highway), Tampa; (813) 514-1234. The menu at this Citrus Park restaurant is brimming with Caribbean flavors. Start with the tender and flavorful grouper bites or lightly fried Sweet Island Calamari. Good entrees include Perfect Pan Seared Tuna and Fiesta Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya. There's also salads, steaks, pastas, sandwiches, wraps and burgers. Don't pass up the tortilla filled banana cheesecake, a scrumptious concoction tucked inside a warm, crispy tortilla drizzled with caramel. The restaurant features live music most nights, showcasing a variety of bands that crank out everything from rock and R&B to Top 40 and Jimmy Buffett. ($$)

TANGELO'S GRILLE, 226 First Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1695. Short on frills but long on character, this downtown staple - a simple but savory collision of Cuban and Jamaican traditions - has catered to office workers, theater patrons, concertgoers and random passers-by since 1986, filling their guts without emptying their wallets. The cozy, unpretentious dining room is a riot of vibrant color, echoing the eclectic flavors on the small menu. We like the fresh roasted Cuban-style pork, bursting with flavor from its mojo marinade, and their Cuban sandwich is one of the best around. ($)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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