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Elvis Costello's Aim Is True On 'Momofuku'

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By CURTIS ROSS

The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 29, 2008

Nick Lowe's philosophy as a producer was summed up in the phrase "bash it down and then tart it up later," as he told The Onion in 2002.

Lowe produced Elvis Costello's early albums and although he wasn't drafted back into service for "Momofuku," that bash it out spirit prevails.

Maybe it's a result of his work in opera, art songs and heavily crafted pop, but Costello's latter-day rock albums have been in need of more bashing, less tarting.

"Momofuku" hits the spot - the album reportedly was knocked out relatively quickly, giving it a raw, physical feel not heard on a Costello album since maybe 1986's "Blood and Chocolate."

Even 2004's excellent "The Delivery Man" sounded polished, even if the finish was more matte than glossy.

Not that Costello is bashing out his compositions - "Mr. Feathers" could have come from 1989's eclectic-to-a-fault "Spike," while "Harry Worth" shares a barbed elegance with much of 1982's "Imperial Bedroom."

But even those numbers are delivered with the same immediacy of rockers such as the opening track, "No Hiding Place," or the hard R&B groove of closing number "Go Away."

In between are hard-boiled character studies ("Stella Hurt"), gorgeous soul balladry ("Flutter and Wow") and the most openly tender song Costello ever has released ("My Three Sons").

There also is a co-write with Loretta Lynn ("Pardon Me, Madam, My Name Is Eve") and another with Rosanne Cash ("Song With Rose") as well as spot-on harmonies from Jenny Lewis.

Needless to say - but unfair not to - the Imposters (bassist Davey Faragher, keyboardist Steve Nieve and drummer Pete Thomas) are excellent throughout.

With all due respect to his multi-genre work, it's albums such as "Momofuku" that keep Costello fans coming back.

Download this: "Flutter and Wow"

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