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Belleair Grill Caters To All Appetites

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By KURT LOFT

The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 30, 2008

CLEARWATER - Americans are notorious for their big-plate appetites, of ordering enough food at one sitting to feast on for three days. Many restaurants are happy to oblige, in portion size and bill, while others are catering to more healthful lifestyles that stress less is more.

Anyone who strives for the latter in their eating habits will find much to celebrate at the new Belleair Grill and Wine Bar, a sharply appointed restaurant with an even sharper menu. Owner Mark Marone has an intrinsic feel both for what his customers want and how the changing economic landscape affects their pocketbooks.

With the rising cost of gas and food, people are making hard choices about their discretionary dollars, and that $25 entree yesterday feels like $40 today. Marone eases the pain by offering half and full orders and prices to match, encouraging diners to enjoy a variety of taste sensations without getting pinched.

The kitchen infuses Mediterranean and New American styles into appetizers and first and second courses, all complemented by a thoughtful wine list. On two pleasant visits, we found the product to be fresh and herbaceous, each dish artfully presented and delivered tableside by a crack wait staff. The wine cellar features 125 labels from around the world, and about 20 pours by the glass.

Longtime patrons for years knew this spot as the Pepper Mill, but the place was showing its age. Marone slowly blended more relevant ideas into the menu and decor, and in March changed the name. Diners enter and can sip a drink at a cozy wine alcove to the left of the foyer, then sit down at booths in an intimate dining room or the more open and sunny space adjoining it.

Appetizers are so tempting it's hard to order only two or three. We devoured our Fried Risotto Balls, a delicious blend of Asiago cheese and herbs, and the Potato-Wrapped Goat Cheese offers a world of taste sensations with the addition of fresh basil, oven-dried tomato and garlic.

The fried calamari, mussels and clams with a piquant parsley pesto was nothing short of fabulous, as was ricotta- and spinach-stuffed shrimp wrapped in shredded phyllo and touched off with a saffron sauce. Salads are musts, such as the Chicken Walnut with mixed greens, or Marinated Artichoke and arugula.

A favorite entree is the pork osso buco, the braised meat succulent and bursting with deep, rich flavor enhanced by celery root mashed potatoes and marmalade made of red onion. Our certified Angus beef 6-ounce filet mignon with mushroom sauce was perfectly cooked and just the right amount, its delicate texture rewarded by a dash of crumbled Gorgonzola and hint of raspberry.

A tart citrus zest reduction crowns the pan-seared duck breast and leg, a crisp skin holding in the juices. Hats off also must go to the herb-crusted New Zealand lamb chops, which marry a pungent goat cheese, raspberry fig relish and drizzle of reduced red wine. Try this dish with a Cline Ancient Vine Zinfandel.

White truffle oil adds depth to the wild mushroom and duck risotto with Parmesan, and our fresh-tasting Pacific halibut nearly jumped off the plate, alive with dusted porcini, lemon-basil oil and sauteed spinach. Plenty of meat lends weight to the Maryland-style crab cakes with fennel, and a balsamic reduction over French lentils and fried leeks framed our mouthwatering grilled wild salmon.

To top off a meal, don't hesitate to splurge on a plate of Chocolate Molten Lava Cake with coffee or tawny port.

DINING REVIEW

Belleair Grill and Wine Bar

BOTTOM LINE: A delightful convergence of food, atmosphere, wine and service.

WHERE: 1575 Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday through Friday, noon to 3 p.m. Saturday; dinner, 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, until 10 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $9.50 to $20.50

CALL: (727) 449-2988

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Kurt Loft can be reached at (813) 259-7570 or kloft@tampatrib.com.

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