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The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 30, 2008

NEW AMERICAN/FUSION

ASHLEY STREET GRILLE, 200 N. Ashley Drive, downtown Tampa; (813) 226-4400. A riverfront view and nouvelle Floridian cuisine make this a strong contender in the downtown restaurant market. Located in the Sheraton Tampa Riverwalk Hotel, this attractive eatery simmers with culinary talent. The chef's signature appetizer is Lobster Strudel - shiitake mushrooms, Boursin cheese and fresh lobster in phyllo dough with truffle bechamel sauce. A popular entree is Seafood St. Jacque - green lip mussels, sea scallops and sauteed shrimp in a bechamel sauce topped with piped potato. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ($$)

CHEAP, 309 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5878. Despite its name, Cheap is richly rewarding. This is the sort of hip spot you'd find in Greenwich Village or Portland, Maine, stopping in for a tapas-style bite and glass of Malbec before heading out to a late movie. This small, cozy place offers a tantalizing sampling of small-bite items prepared and presented with an understated, artistic flair. The menu features two columns - epulae (feast) and crudo (raw fish) - small portions that double as appetizers and entrees. Don't pass up the baked goat cheese drizzled with port wine reduction and a scattering of sliced tomatoes and sweet basil leaves. ($)

DAILY EATS, 901 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 868-3335. This upscale diner revamps classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. Some dishes are just average, but the ahi tuna sandwich on ciabatta is a winner, as are the sweet potato fries, battered green beans and creamy macaroni and cheese. The Atkins-friendly Shredder Bowls sound like a healthy alternative, but taste like pure decadence. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)

DELLA'S AFTER DARK, 608 Oakfield Drive, Brandon; (813) 684-3354. Live jazz and an eclectic menu that includes meatloaf, osso buco and New Zealand rack of lamb make this a popular stop three nights a week. We liked the fresh catch, Ginger and Plantain Crusted Grouper, served with wasabi mashed potatoes atop julienned vegetables. The appetizer lineup includes tender calamari, moist shrimp and crab cakes, and poached, green-shelled New Zealand mussels. ($$)

FETISHES, 6690 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 363-3700. The strip-center architecture redefines plain, but Fetishes shines in this setting like a new silver dollar in a mound of old pennies, catering to diners who value intimacy. Favorite appetizers include the hearty cup of Corn and Crab Bisque, chunky with sweet bits of corn and crab; house specialty Maryland Style Crab Cakes, plump and meaty; and Mini Beef Roulettes stuffed with Asiago cheese and prosciutto. Of entrees, we enjoyed the Filet Mignon in a garlicky bechamel, Chicken & Crab Avonaise - chicken, crab, avocado and bearnaise sauce - and Crispy Roast Duckling with orange cumberland sauce. Reservations are a must. ($$)

GALLERY ECLECTIC BISTRO, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-3838. You'll like the look and the menu at this sophisticated dining spot. The sausage-stuffed poblano pepper is a Cajun-spirited specialty. The pork rates here, too, whether rubbed with ginger or stuffed with goat cheese. The kitchen also braises lamb shanks with blackberry demi-glace, sears Maple Leaf Duck Breast and grills mahi-mahi with lemon cream sauce. Lunch choices include barbecue pulled pork sandwiches and dill-crusted salmon. ($$)

THE GRAPE, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (on Bay Street at International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 354-9463. This wine bar bistro is part of an Atlanta-based chain that promotes a 10-tier classification guide, customized tasting flights of three or more wines and suggestions for food pairings. The list includes 120 wines of varying quality from around the world. Bites include sandwiches, crab cakes, salads and other light fare. ($)

JACKSON'S BISTRO, 601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa; (813) 277-0112. Cocktails on the patio at sunset and champagne dinners are back on Harbour Island. Jackson's Bistro brings to the riverfront an old concept with a fresh approach - separate rooms and different menus. Jackson's has an extensive fine dining menu featuring a fusion of global cuisines. The Peppered Ahi Tuna honors this fish and doesn't disappoint even the highest expectations. In addition to very good nightly specials, oak-grilled prime steaks, pasta and poultry dishes round out the menu. Try the sushi. ($$)

KELLY'S FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING, 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284. Moderately priced Kelly's is worth a trip to downtown Dunedin. It's the setting for rich sauces, powerful flavors and sweet treats. House specialty entrees include Danish Baby Back Ribs, slathered in a zesty barbecue sauce, and Cornish Game Hens, roasted with a maple pecan glaze. Great burgers, too. ($-$$)

MISE EN PLACE, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373. Mise en Place makes no bones about being the most creative culinary package around. Nowhere in the Bay area will the discerning diner find such a quirky mix of ideas at the table, the menu simmering with imagination and the presentation of each entree a minor study in edible elegance. Mise en Place is perhaps the most respected affordable restaurant in Tampa. ($$-$$$)

O BISTRO, 6661 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 381-1212. With a leaning toward Mediterranean, this neighborhood place complements classic dishes with lively meals combining fresh herbs and colorful vegetables. The owners are tenacious and apparently tireless, keeping the kitchen going with breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. Lunch includes a tempting selection of soups and salads, wraps and paninis, quiche and quesadillas, melts and grilled sandwiches. Dinner means curry seared tuna sashimi, Tuscan style pot roast, deep dish spinach pie, and the grilled double Lolli Pop pork chop. ($$)

PACIFIC WAVE, 211 Second St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235. Chef Joe Chouinard, former executive chef of Redwoods, teams with chef-partner Peter Tanhnavong to cook up an amazing melange of fusion foods. Sake-cured Hawaiian swordfish gets a chipotle chili pepper salsa; Australian free-range filet is served with a lovely celeriac and potato gratin; and grilled ostrich fillet is marinated in guava and Chinese mustard. The decadent Krakatoa Lava Cake oozes bittersweet chocolate with every bite. ($$)

PALM COURT AT TRADEWINDS RESORT, 5500 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-6461, Ext. 2558. This 18-acre meandering hotel has a treasure of a courtside bistro. The menu has a sizable pasta section, including dishes such as tortellini with rock shrimp, asparagus and garlic cream, and seafood risotto with shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and clams. ($$)

PARKSHORE GRILL, 300 Beach Drive N.E., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-9463. The restaurant sports an expensive chophouse look - heavy on polished wood, soft lighting, high-back booths and a regal bar. A large, glass wine cave shows off hundreds of bottles. The menu offers a diverse selection of appetizers, such as chicken chili lettuce wraps, and entrees of note are roasted chicken with Boursin cheese, grilled lamb chops and grain mustard, beef Wellington with liver pate, and pan-fried grouper cake in a lemon-caper sauce. ($$$)

ROY'S, 4342 Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 873-7697. This high-energy spot is a breath of fresh air. The entrees change daily depending on the catch, but selections might include Misoyaki "Hawaiian Style" Butterfish; Basil-Seared Wahoo; Lomi Wasabi Salmon (cured salmon with a spicy salsa of lomi tomatoes); and Togarashi-Seared Red Snapper (with red peppers, sesame oil and cayenne peppers). Menu staples include Tender Maryland Blue Crab Cakes, Sesame Seared Shrimp Sticks and Roy's "Original" Blackened Rare Ahi. ($$-$$$)

RUSTY'S BISTRO, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611. Chef John Harris brings to the table a palate rich in world cuisines, mixing tastes and textures from Florida, France, the Caribbean, the Southwest and the Pacific Rim. Rusty's also offers a bountiful salad bar crammed to the hilt with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses. Not to be missed is the chef's trademark corn soup with a dollop of salsa; a Caesar served inside a decadent fried sheet of Parmesan cheese molded into an edible bowl; shredded duck ravioli; sea bass with fennel, lentils and leeks; and the Lolly Pop Pork Chop with balsamic demi-glace ($$$)

SAINT LARRY'S, 34980 U.S. 19 N. (in The Fountains plaza), Palm Harbor; (727) 786-0077. Entrees here are generous and served with two fresh sides. The menu features steaks, seafood, pasta and chicken. Scallops Epithany showcases large mollusks in a light Alfredo-like sauce and comes with a white-truffle potato pancake. Almond Crusted Grouper is moist with a light dusting of crushed nuts. ($$)

SIDEBERN'S, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233. Seafood selections dominate the menu with creatively prepared dinners such as Chorizo-Scaled Sea Bass and Szechuan Glazed Florida Grouper. Beef eaters should taste Homage to a Steak House. A nice wine list further charms guests at this cousin to the famed Bern's Steak House. And when the climate is comfortable, enjoy the outdoor courtyard. ($$-$$$)

220 EAST, 220 East Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 259-1220. Co-owner David Chapdelaine spent some time working with the Pleasant Peasant chain in Atlanta, and he learned well. Now he has teamed up with his wife, Julie, and chef Nui Thanasioangkuo to bring the experience to Tampa. The result is 220 East, a fine neighborhood restaurant with food that competes with the best in the Bay area. It is a comfortable, casual place where children are welcomed, and the menu can be taken in small, affordable bites. The Hot Stickers are excellent. Also try the Earth and Turf, a charbroiled chicken breast in a lovely layered display of a portobello mushroom, red and green peppers, zucchini and yellow squash in a red pepper sauce. ($-$$)

THE VIEW AT CK's, top of the Marriott hotel, Tampa International Airport; (813) 878-6500. It takes 75 minutes for the revolving restaurant to swirl 360 degrees - enough time to enjoy dinner and a spectacular view of Tampa and the bay. The menu offers a short list of meats, salads, seafood and sweets, all served in a unique centrifugal setting. Options include the pan-roasted, Shiraz-infused Moulard duck breast, Cajun sea bass, USDA prime steaks, and a large sushi and sashimi menu. ($$-$$$)

Z GRILLE, 269 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 896-3101. Zack and Jennifer Gross hark from Southern California and bring their tastes and techniques to the Z Grille on Central Avenue, a nice addition to downtown's growing restaurant culture. An enticing beer list and shorts-casual atmosphere draws a lazy crowd from off the street, as well as the hungry from a neighboring cigar bar. Consider the Pork Filled Flautas, Blackened Grilled Shrimp Skewers, Towering Tostada, Z Grille Infused Chicken, and Dry Rubbed Ribeye. ($$)

MEDITERRANEAN/ PERSIAN

ACROPOLIS GREEK TAVERNA, 1833 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 242-4545. Owner Costa Waez has turned a former pizzeria into a Mediterranean experience. Hearty appetites should consider the moussaka, a casserole layered with seasoned ground beef, sliced eggplant, zucchini, potatoes and a rich cream sauce, all topped with tomato sauce. The Acropolis Sampler comes with four spreads: tzatziki, taramasalata (carp roe puree), melitzanosalata (whipped eggplant) and hummus (crushed chickpeas). Fried squid (tentacles and all) is served crisp from the fryer, with a few slices of red pepper adding color. Greek wines and pastries round out the menu. ($-$$)

ATHENIAN GARDEN, 2900 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg (in the Coconut Grove shopping center); (727) 822-2000. This neighborhood restaurant's menu features lamb chops, shish kebabs, baked chicken and other Greek specialties. You'll also find broiled, blackened or fried fish; moussaka (layers of eggplant, potatoes and beef); and pastitsio (macaroni and beef). Souvlaki is a hit with tender cubes of lamb, green peppers and onions. The dish is served with hot rice and slices of pita bread. ($-$$)

BYBLOS CAFE, 2832 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977. This south Tampa cafe offers a fine assortment of Mediterranean and Lebanese fare, including labneh, falafel, spicy sausage and stuffed grape leaves. The tender and juicy kebabs are made with filet mignon and the plump lamb chops are loaded with flavor. Consider ordering shawarma: tangy beef or chicken breast strips fragrant with spices such as paprika, cloves and cinnamon. ($-$$)

CAFE ALMA, 260 First Ave. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 502-5002. Owners Dwight and Catherine Watkins teamed up with chef Christian Briner to create a casual cafe specializing in Mediterranean fusion fare. The pungent aroma of freshly made stocks and sauces waft through the dining room, and earthy ingredients hint of the cuisines of Turkey, Greece and Morocco. ($$)

CAFE PONTE, 13505 Icot Blvd., Clearwater (in the Icot Center); (727) 538-5768. Chef Christopher Ponte serves contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with light Asian and French touches. Entrees of note include ravioli filled with goat cheese and butternut squash, topped with a brown butter sauce; pan-roasted snapper bathed in a tomato-ginger broth; and potato-crusted sea bass. Try to save room for the Petit Four Plate, a sampler platter of the day's desserts. ($$-$$$)

THE GARDEN, 217 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-3800. Amid the offices of downtown St. Petersburg, a giant old banyan tree shades a lush courtyard. There, in a forest of flavors, sits The Garden. Hearty appetites might consider the Traditional North African Couscous - not merely the granular semolina, but a stew of lamb, carrots, green cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, raisins and chick peas. With artist and writer round tables, bourbon and wine tastings, themed dinners and weekend jazz, the owners have cleared a special place among St. Petersburg's restaurants. ($)

GENGIZ KHAN, 6102 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-6400. This charming Turkish restaurant uses mostly organic ingredients in a menu heavy on grilled meats and fresh salads and spreads. Highlights include a stellar falafel sandwich, stuffed grape leaves, delicious salads and the chicken shish. ($$)

GRECIAN ISLAND RESTAURANT, 223 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2222. This cozy Davis Islands eatery serves mostly standard American fare - sandwiches, burgers and hot plate lunches - with Greek dishes rounding out the menu. Daily specials might include pastitsio, a sort of lasagna made with ground beef and noodles and served with a tomato and cinnamon sauce; or fila, grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice and served with a lemon sauce. ($)

GRECKO GRILL, 13331 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 399-5909. This casual eatery offers Greek and Continental fare under one roof. The Tour of Greece platter lets you sample moussaka (layered eggplant, beef and lamb topped with bechamel sauce), pastitsio (a similar casserole with macaroni and tomato sauce) and a stuffed cabbage roll. The catch of the day is fresh fish cooked to your liking: grilled, blackened or fried. The Broiled Combo Extravaganza is a good mixture of grouper, shrimp, scallops and crab cakes. Appetizers are a must: Try the stuffed grape leaves or one of the tasty spreads - hummus, tzatziki (cucumber-garlic), feta and olives or skordalia (potatoes and garlic) - each served with pita triangles. ($$-$$$)

HELLAS, 785 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 943-2400. This spacious, casual restaurant has an attached bakery offering cafe-style seating. Diners are encouraged to stroll into the bakery area to select their dessert, which will be served at their table. Or pay for your dinner and take a seat in the bakery cafe, if you prefer. The menu offers an array of Greek specialties, from saganaki (flaming cheese appetizer) to gyro and souvlaki pita sandwiches. Entrees include moussaka, pastitsio, shish kebab, lamb and a selection of seafood and fish. After eating, stroll the historic Tarpon Springs sponge docks to work off those calories. ($)

LOUIS PAPPAS MARKET CAFE, 3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-0000 (check the telephone book for other locations). Louis Pappas' Riverside Restaurant may be a Tarpon Springs institution, but the venerable eatery gave birth to a litter of little cafes, and their popularity speaks for itself. Delicious dishes include the Greek-a-dillas, sliced lamb or grilled chicken with blended cheeses and scallions stuffed inside flour tortillas; the Shrimp and Feta Marinara; and the Greek herb-rubbed roasted chicken with a lemon-garlic sauce. Salads, gyros, soups and spreads are all tasty and satisfying. ($)

MASSIMO'S, 31876 U.S. 19 N. (in the Commons at Twin Lakes), Palm Harbor; (727) 784-1881. Chef Massimo Patano's ambitious Mediterranean menu features fresh fish, poultry, pasta and lots of veal. Veal Scaloppine, with crisp artichokes, asparagus and pine nuts, gets an A for its light, lemony butter sauce. Pasta dishes are standouts, too. Homemade strands of pappardelle, lobster and porcini mushrooms are tossed with Parmesan cheese and served in an edible baked-cheese basket. The chef's affinity for dessert shows with Three Cheese Cheesecake Surprise, Chocolate Risotto with macadamia nuts, Chocolate Pate, espresso sorbet and tiramisu. ($$-$$$)

MIRAGE RESTAURANT, 2284 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 724-3604. You'll find Persian-Mediterranean cooking here with an emphasis on kebabs. Beef, lamb and chicken kebabs are richly flavored and served with rice topped with saffron, grilled vegetables and pita bread. Try the refreshing yogurt and cucumber sauce flavored with herbs, the delicious hummus (chickpeas, garlic and lemon juice), or the tasty kibbeh (meatballs made with beef and cracked wheat). There's a daily lunch buffet, plus an expanded buffet for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant really hops on weekends, when a belly dancer performs. ($-$$)

MORAE'S CAFE, 1441 E. Fletcher Ave., Tampa; (813) 977-6018. This cozy, quiet restaurant specializes in shish kebabs and Persian cuisine. Kebab choices include long, juicy strips of marinated chicken and steak filet, seasoned beef, shrimp, lamb and vegetables. Traditional Persian dishes include qormeh sabzia, a combination of red beans, spinach, parsley and steak cubes. You'll also find gyros, sandwiches and salads. ($)

NOVO, 5062 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 520-1000. A tempting option along busy Fourth Street, Novo offers hearty Mediterranean fare with an American twist, including grilled chicken Marsala, grilled salmon Santorini, seafood Cioppino and a heavily marbled rib-eye Classico. Service is professional and efficient. ($)

PELAGIA TRATTORIA, Renaissance Tampa Hotel, International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235. This hip restaurant offers a modern twist on Mediterranean cuisine with a menu that includes pizza, pasta, bouillabaisse, veal and steaks. Braised Mussels a la Provencal, sweet mollusks flecked with little bites of Merguez sausage, were large and satisfying. Another great appetizer is Caesar Fondue, baby romaine briefly grilled to give it a wonderful smoky flavor and served with garlic focaccia bread and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pasta dishes include Coco Pappardelle with osso buco ragu, and a potato and sage gnocchi with a fresh butternut sauce. End the meal with a phyllo-encased Golden Apple Tart with fresh rosemary and a luscious caramel sauce. ($$-$$$)

FRENCH

CAFE LARGO, 12551 Indian Rocks Road, Largo; (727) 596-6282. Cafe Largo stands out for its inspired kitchen and presentation, plus personal service from a friendly staff. Strong entree choices include veal scallopini, rare beef tenderloin and rack of lamb with three complementary sauces; and veal kidney flambe with cognac and Dijon mustard. Don't leave without trying the cafe's trademark souffles au choix, made with orange liqueur, chocolate, Frangelico and fruit. ($$)

LA COTE BASQUE WINEHOUSE, 3104 S. Beach Blvd., Gulfport; (727) 321-6888. Cozy place to go for traditional country French fare and quiet conversation. From French onion soup to chocolate mousse, the menu focuses on old-style cooking. Duck, scampi, lamb chops and veal are among the entree choices. ($)

LE BOUCHON, 796 N. Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-9777. Casual and unpretentious, this one-room restaurant feels like a neighborhood diner in Provence, where the locals come to digest whatever the chef deems fitting and fresh that day. Recommended are the crepes, country pizzas, Tournedo Poivre Vert and Roasted Duck Breast. Also consider the wine dinners. ($$-$$$)

L'EDEN, 500 N. Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 221-4795. We applaud this little French gem, where quaint dinners unfold on weekends and creative lunches during the week. Owners Gerard and Anne Marie Jamgotchian hail from Marseille, France, and their skills with la cuisine du monde is evident in most every bite. Although steeped in traditional French ingredients and techniques, the menu follows a nouvelle style by eschewing rich and heavy sauces for herbal bases and healthful broths made by reducing rather than thickening. ($)

COLOMBIAN

LA PEQUENA COLOMBIA RESTAURANTE, 6312 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 876-8338. This West Tampa eatery has a distinctive Colombian flair. Latin music wafts through the three small dining rooms adorned with native art and crafts. Antojos (appetizers) include tamales (corn pie with meat and vegetables), empanadas (meat pies) and arepas con queso (corn tortillas with cheese). Entradas (entrees) range from Chuleta Colombiana (breaded steak) to Sobrebarriga (steamed brisket with tio sauce) and Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's popular dish of beans, rice, eggs, meat and plantains. Breakfast includes Higado Encebollado (liver and onions), arroz, Huevos Revuelto (scrambled rice and eggs) and Calentado de Frijoles (rice and beans). ($)

LA TIPICA COLOMBIANA, 2310 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 931-9300. This warm and relaxed restaurant and bakery serves typical Colombian dishes and baked goods. Each weekday features a special such as arroz con pollo (chicken and yellow rice) - Colombia's version has an ample amount of peas and carrots with yellow rice and chunks of chicken; tamales, cornmeal patties stuffed with corn, meat and vegetables; and mondongo (tripe). For the ravenous, there's Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's most popular dish, piled high with a slab of palomilla beef steak, fried pork rind, fried egg, white rice, arepa, strips of fried plantain and pinto beans. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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